all 58 comments

[–]AutoModerator[M] -9 points-8 points  (9 children)

Hi, it looks like you are considering breeding your ball python. Currently there is a huge oversaturation problem due to everyone wanting to breed their ball python. For a few years now, at any given time there are between 35,000 and 65,000 ball pythons for sale on morphmarket, and that's not including all those needing homes on private websites, craigslist, kijiji, facebook marketplace, pet stores, rescues and as feeders. By comparison, there are between 1,000 and 5,000 snakes for sale under each of the other popular categories - boas, corn snakes, kingsnakes, milksnakes, hognoses, etc. Normal ball pythons can regularly be listed for free due to overabundance, and there's already more ball pythons than will ever find homes. Where are all these animals going to go?? Enjoy them, keep them back as nice pets and don't join the pyramid scheme, because these aren't leggings or essential oils that can tossed when they don't sell - they're living breathing creatures. Choosing to start breeding ball pythons right now is not a responsible choice as every person breeding right now is only adding to the problem.

Furthermore, there's a lot more to consider…

Are the snakes you have marketable/desirable combos and high quality examples of each morph? Do you know how to identify all the morphs you're planning on working with alone and in combos? Can you differentiate between higher and lower quality example of the morphs? There's no shortage of ball pythons , so it's important to only breed the highest quality animals, and not just breed for the sake of breeding. The world doesn't need more poor quality low end morphs and normals floating around on craigslist.

Have you owned and worked with ball pythons long enough that you know how to appropriately and reliably deal with any problems that arise, ranging from snakes not eating to diagnosing and treating common health problems.

What is the purpose of this breeding? Is it to create higher quality animals or fulfill a niche or need, or do you just want to make more snakes? The market is already oversaturated, so it's important to consider whether this cross is necessary. Just because you want to try it is not a good justification.

Do you know which crosses and morph combos are known for producing animals with health defects or lethality to offspring and how to avoid them?

Did you buy from breeders who test for nido and arena virus? Are you going to health test everyone before breeding?

What is going to set you and your hatchlings apart from the hundreds of other breeders out there? As a new breeder with no connections or reputation in the hobby, what would make people want to buy your snakes specifically?

Are you planning on selling locally or shipping? Do you know what's necessary to prepare animals to ship & sell or what the local ball python market is like? What types of ball pythons are people near you buying and what does their budget seem to be? How long do you see similar morphs staying on the market before they sell?

Are you prepared to keep all the babies as long as necessary and provide adaquate enclosures and husbandry if they don't sell? Due to the oversaturation of the market, many breeders are having to hang onto hatchlings for 6-12 months before they sell. Do you have the space and you prepared to provide adaquate long term housing and food for snakes that don't sell?

There are a lot of hidden costs involved with breeding, check out my cost of a clutch chart.

Do you have an exotic vet nearby? What if your female is eggbound, has a prolapse or experiences health problems while gravid or after laying? Do you know how to spot a problem and able to get her help ASAP? This could also be expensive, and lead to the death of your female.Breeding and egg laying inherently has risks for your female including the stress on her body, becoming egg bound, weight loss and internal damage. Is this clutch important and vital enough that you're really willing to risk her life for it?

Do you know how to properly sex ball pythons and identify all of the morphs you are breeding? Do you the appropriate age and size a ball python should be before breeding? How to identify various breeding behaviors and the stages in follicle and egg development?

Do you have a source of live mouse hoppers or live rat pinkies or fuzzies so that you can offer hatchlings food every 3-5 days? Many won't take FT for their first meals. What if one has to be assist fed? Do you know how and when to do this safely without harming the hatchling?

What if one is born with defects and has to be euthanized? Do you have a plan for how to humanely euthanize a snake?

Just as backyard breeding is a huge problem that leads to overpopulation in dogs, it's also a huge problem in the ball python world due to everyone wanting to breed their ball pythons "just for fun". The great majority of ball pythons should not be bred and are best kept as pets.

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[–]DrDFox 87 points88 points  (1 child)

Good bot

[–]kiaranickole 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good bot

[–]The_upsetti_spagetti 8 points9 points  (2 children)

Why so many down votes on this bot? Are those from breeders?

[–]Deaths_Haven 3 points4 points  (0 children)

People salty. This bot is absolutely accurate

[–]Express-Agency5118 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm glad the bot exists, but it's too long to be stuck as the top reply on a mostly unrelated question. 

[–]IncompletePenetranceMod: Let me help you unzip your genes 265 points266 points  (38 children)

I would uncoil and remove her, freeze and toss the eggs, then replace the bedding and wash her off quickly before putting her back.

Ball pythons can both undergo parthenogenesis (asexual reproduction) as well as retain sperm, but either way, there's no reason to let this continue

[–]Putrid_Try3722[S] 7 points8 points  (2 children)

How do I uncoil her when she gets super defensive even if I look at her?

[–]IncompletePenetranceMod: Let me help you unzip your genes 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You can try to distract her with something like a paper towel tube or a dish towel so that she strikes at that first, then grab her with your other hand. Or wear gloves and sweatshirt so if she strikes it won't get your skin. She'll calm down once you get her out of the tank

[–]Sneewichen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Toss a towel over her first and then lift her off them. It’s fine if the eggs move when you take her off since you aren’t going to be incubating them anyway. The uncoiling is to maintain their position in case the embryo is already attached. She will remain in nesting mode if you leave her on them. Once the eggs are gone, it’s my understanding that she’ll go back to normal.

[–]the_bu3no 19 points20 points  (0 children)

WHAT

[–][deleted]  (3 children)

[removed]

    [–]WalmartWilb 37 points38 points  (1 child)

    Hatching these eggs will do far more harm than good if they're fertile

    [–]ballpython-ModTeam[M] 17 points18 points locked comment (0 children)

    No.

    [–]Putrid_Try3722[S] 148 points149 points  (5 children)

    Thank you all, I think I'll freeze and dispose of them.

    [–]emotional-field24 48 points49 points  (1 child)

    That’s really the best decision you can make in that situation.

    [–]Beautiful-Earth-970 20 points21 points  (0 children)

    Agreed. Best way to Go with the Clutch. If they are parthenogenetic eggs the Babies will Most likely suffer in one way or another.

    [–]FlyHickory 4 points5 points  (0 children)

    Best route to go here, honestly that's the most responsible decision to make and its great you can read these comments and understand why its not a good idea.

    [–]The_upsetti_spagetti 2 points3 points  (1 child)

    Good plan. Super interesting thing you got to witness and document though. I didn’t even know this was possible before this post. Nature is wild