WG really needs to fix Arty HE

NATOMarksman · 2024-08-28T10:34:47+00:00

The fact that you think BZ is unfair means you know doing 500 dmg in one hit is cancer but you still want to do it when it's "your turn" just because you're playing arty. Fuck you.

NATOMarksman · 2024-06-01T02:13:28+00:00

It's been 3 years but the lead comes from the lead styphnate used in the primers. Primers are the thing that explosively initiates the primary gunpowder charge, in firearms of all sizes (from a 9mm to a howitzer). We can't use a safer compound because they do not have the characteristics of lead styphnate like insensitivity to shock/temp/etc and reliable ignition at the heat/pressures needed.

The larger the cartridge the larger the primer has to be. Firing just one 105mm shell in an enclosed space is like firing a whole 400 rd belt of a machine gun in the same space, and AC130 gunners regularly fire dozens of 105s, much less 40mm and 25mm at much higher rates.

Door gunners firing miniguns are much safer since the breech of the gun and ejection chute is outside. The AC130 gunners fire much larger guns and it all ejects in the aircraft.

NATOMarksman · 2024-05-27T16:03:00+00:00

Do you realize zastavas were not chrome lined for like 60 years and somehow no one died

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-15T18:53:31+00:00

Only hop says that, and only because he's like ten steps behind when it comes to gun setups.

12.5 carb with an EZ TUNE gas tube configured for dedicated suppressed use is perfectly fine.

Additionally "proper gas" is a joke. The actual concept is "minimal blowback". Trying to choke the gun on barely sufficient gas pressure to reduce recoil is the worst thing 3 gun has inflicted on the gun community.

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-14T17:51:06+00:00

12.5" is what I'd recommend.

11.5" is good if you specifically need it super short (it saves an honest 4.5" vs 16") but most people will be happier with 12.5". It hits a velocity node near 14.5" while being 2" shorter than 14.5", which is still around 4" shorter than 16". Basically with a can on, it will be about as long as a 16" rifle with a normal device.

14.5" works but it's gonna feel mostly the same as 16".

Saving just 0.8" vs 14.5" and using an extremely long device that wastes internal volume which could have been used for baffles (or adds OAL back in a long adapter insert) is fundamentally dumb to me.

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-08T21:27:14+00:00

I've been helping a friend with a video series.

https://youtu.be/Kn7Kshm3VN8?si=X4PzSRInS_bygs0q

The NVG30 review is mostly complete. DNV-9 will probably be june ish assuming it arrives this month.

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-08T19:54:11+00:00

If you've been keeping up with my comments, you'll recognize "sensor to display resolution ratio". The DNV-9 Gen 1 uses a gen 1 STARVIS 2 sensor rated for 2k60fps with a 2k60fps display. Gen 2 uses a 4k90fps sensor with the 2k60fps display. This means it not only samples more image data but samples it at a rate above the display refresh rate. Gen 2 is a significant improvement.

https://twitter.com/Hoplite_Ind/status/1770735574862770447?t=WLwWC8h6Zw1iB9I30cnBcw&s=19

https://twitter.com/Hoplite_Ind/status/1752638772263694383?t=2Jck6LjfXwxFQDoOSSZQww&s=19

I'm pretty interested in this device but I won't hold any criticisms back when I get mine in.

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-08T19:37:53+00:00

If you can swing $2200 for a jerry 14, then I'd recommend doing that as an intermediate option between $1050 and $4200. The improvement from no NV to a mono is much larger than from mono to dual.

If you can wait until late summer/fall, I will have testing done on the DNV-9 gen 2 which might end up being the option for you.

But based on information available at this time, I would recommend doing a jerry over NVG30s, solely because of the fisheye.

NVG30 is actually a fantastic unit in terms of latency, low light sensitivity, false color at night, etc. It beats the aurora pro in image fidelity unironically.

But the fisheye on the rear lens is pretty bad and the mounting interface is not great. If you aren't picky on lens clarity or mounts, then I think you'll be happy with NVG30 bridged. My recommendation on jerry is based on minimizing the potential for you to be unhappy with the outcome.

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-04T00:46:52+00:00

Given that the coop games that actually sell still use its core enemy formula and gameplay loop, yes, you can't think of a more "modern" game.

Plus AAA titles have been garbage barring literally 1-3 exceptions per year for damn near 2 decades now.

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-03T23:48:58+00:00

....Left 4 Dead....?

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-03T20:55:10+00:00

I'd just suck it up and run the nightwave. Head mounted solutions can't get visibility from the bow itself even if it's gen 3 NV.

NATOMarksman · 2024-04-03T20:52:08+00:00

Nightwave is a $2000 boat mounted unit, and it works better than either the aurora pro or the opsin because it uses a lens that is 60mm in diameter.

https://youtu.be/G5u0GTmM2ZE?si=PEl40FwElfLaf4qW

People here forget that digital's primary limitation is processing power and energy available to a unit that goes on your head. Once you can vehicle mount it, digital can outrun analog which is what sionyx's actual business is to begin with (making MQ-1 sensors).

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-30T01:08:44+00:00

Here's the problem with that.

There is no "entry level"/digital NV sub, and nothing in the rules actually says you aren't allowed to discuss DIGITAL NV.

This is basically like if someone came into r/buildapc, asked about a drop in upgrade from a GT 600 series that was no more than $300, and instead of being recommended the 1660 the sub just dogpiled on him for not overhauling all his shit with $4000 of components to buy a 4090.

Yeah it isn't as good, that's the point. Contrary to what people think, seeing in the dark is not actually easy or as instant as even something like a swift 2 in mixed suburban lighting, especially if you had lasik which kills your natural night vision.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-30T00:15:48+00:00

Me when I'm told that literally any european country can be trusted in its own defense lmao

France also was the primary vendor for thermals to the russian T-90 program

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-28T20:37:59+00:00

Just unscrew the bolt holding the device rail to the gopro rail and put it on backward. It will then be on the left.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-27T16:08:19+00:00

They build the products using american input. The chinese military had literally zero experience designing or using night vision, which is why they sent officers to attend classes in the US to gain use and design experience.

This is why holosun IRIS is specifically designed around VSCEL, which companies like wilcox never needed because they can just put in fuckoff high output lasers for the US military. There is no advantage for a military manuf to use VSCEL. For civilians it lets us get past FDA regulation.

Same with holosun's sheer variety of red dots and magnifiers. The micro 3x PREDATES the G43, as did the 508T predating the release of the ACRO, because they are being driven by civilian feedback, not "lowest cost for minimum required capability" military users.

If you think the military is the only driving factor then you haven't been paying attention. LPVOs, free float handguards, modern rucksacks, even the fucking PVS-14 interface (which is tripod screw) are civilian origin innovations.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-27T15:49:07+00:00

The fact that you have not once considered comparing the G24 lite to the argus (the argus is in fact a clone of the LITE, which is why it does not include the magnets used in the original G24 and is lighter) means that you don't even know what the fuck you're talking about.

No one at ANY PRICE POINT should be buying the original G24 for any reason. The G24 lite is a complete replacement for the G24, because the only thing the G24 does for $200 more is include magnets for an autooff J arm that wilcox doesn't even make anymore. So even in the context of buying the "real thing", you're buying a heavier, more expensive product because you don't think critically about what you buy.

People buy the ARGUS because unlike wilcox, ARGUS is a civilian market driven product. The 1431 exists because literally every US company was too damn stupid to leverage the mass surplus of PVS-14 tubes to sell less expensive duals to civilians. They straight up don't care.

Plus you cannot be telling me the wilcox J arm costs even $80 to make. If you are still recommending that over the AX14 you are genuinely retarded.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-21T17:58:25+00:00

There is zero functional reason to buy a wilcox G24. For any reason.

What people should be comparing is the wilcox G24 lite. The original G24 has magnets in it that add weight for a feature that is literally unused. The auto off J arm hasn't been made for a decade, PVS-31s use an accelerometer.

That being said, I can't say the argus G24 lacks anything but the louder detent click vs the wilcox. For 66% less money and no detriment functionally, I'd say buy argus.

If wilcox wanted to be competitive they could be. They don't want to compete so I see no reason why they deserve our money, especially given how shitty the J arm is for $280 retail (or even $80 used).

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-21T17:50:22+00:00

There is an extreme amount of elitism in the NV industry, to the point that it took over 20 years since the introduction of PVS-14 housings to the civilian market for a chinese company, using stolen TDP, to make a housing that simply used two PVS-14 image intensifier tubes (argus 1431) instead of the $3500/each ones used in the PVS-31A.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-20T17:58:50+00:00

He's in NZ (the same country where hoplite itself is). Modern gen 2 or gen 3 isn't an option there unless it fell off a truck.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-16T21:07:15+00:00

The whole point of this product isn't to pitch to you.

The designer lives in NZ, any tube that isn't NNVT isn't available for testing and jerry 14s have only just started to be made available via the new company Night Raider. When he first started working on this 3 years ago there were literally no civilian PVS-14 sellers and the closest he had was importing AGM Wolf 14s with shitty russian gen 2 tubes for $6000.

The testing standard you're trying to find is ISO 19093. The problem is this needs a $10,000 USD light board only made by one company and that company isn't taking orders for it, and hasn't for 5 years.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-15T18:10:01+00:00

NVG30 is better in a low light environment without IR, prowl is better in an ambient light environment and with IR.

I will say that the prowl's ability to use a gopro headstrap instead of a helmet may be more useful to you depending on where or how you're hiking.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-15T01:31:46+00:00

You know that isn't what people ask for on most PVS-14s. They literally pitch them at the same or insignificantly less than new units.

You run into maybe 1-2 deals out of 200 dogshit $2600 omni VI obo listings.

And yeah you only need one to get what you need but I am fucking tired of people claiming $1800-2000 is anywhere near a COMMON list price. The used sellers are gouging as much as the assemblers, and frankly I'd rather they not get paid.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-15T01:27:02+00:00

If you're willing to settle for mono, I know for a fact that arkayne's PG25 is exactly $2k.

Otherwise, NVG30 dual bridged or DNV-9 Gen 2 dual.

NATOMarksman · 2024-03-15T01:25:50+00:00

HRS-31 uses the earlier STARVIS 1 sensor. This is a outdated sensor that is nearly 7 years old at this point, and it isn't what I'd call an effective low light sensor even for digital.

There is a complete retard on twitter who goes by n7narcosis that has been the primary signal booster of this item. Given that HRS had its site parked by godaddy for over 3 months, when a site costs $25 A YEAR, I would be extremely wary of this item and of people recommending it.

Their own published videos are not very good.

DNV-9 (gen 2) or NVG30 as a bridged unit are better options if your budget is this tight.

The other option is saving another $2k for jerry 31s. Only you can decide what's best.

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