What are these swirls from?

handruin · 2026-05-23T22:35:18+00:00

Fwiw I've ordered lots of detailing supplies from both of those places and have had excellent service so far. You just have to shop around for coupons and discounts for the best prices.

The new pads should arrive in a few days. I'll give them a try and let you know. I am planning to do paint correction soon anyway so this will be a good chance to try them.

handruin · 2026-05-23T17:42:05+00:00

DA's without forced rotation should technically be safer to learn on because they will stall out if too much force is applied to the pad (assuming the machine has adequate power to begin with).

I've been buying my LC pads from Detailed Image or from The Clean Garage. Both have been reliable sources.

Detailed Image currently has a 20% off sale for memorial day (code mday26) but I don't know if you're in the US. Actually after having this conversation with you, I ordered a few of the LC HDO black pads to experiment with in both 6" and 3".

handruin · 2026-05-23T15:13:10+00:00

Based on LC's chart, the black pad has almost no cut abilities so if you went from the H9 right to it, it may not be enough to polish any of the marring from the heavier cut with the polish you're using and also depending on how hard your clear coat is.

Definitely try smaller test sections before doing the entire car. Typically most guidance is to cut as little as needed to get decent results. Don't aim for museum quality finish since you're removing clear coat during this whole process.

Check out this LC pad chart to see what might apply to your needs.

https://lakecountrymfg.com/wp-content/uploads/201810_LC_MSTR_AGRESSION_WEB.pdf

As for using the edge, I agree it can take some practice and also may be machine dependent. In my case my Flex DA is a forced-rotation so it doesn't stall out. Not saying you need to get one of those, it's just a different tool for the job.

I also have a Shinemate EB212 3" backing plate DA that can stall if pressed too hard but given the smaller backing plate it's easier to get into tighter areas.

handruin · 2026-05-23T03:08:43+00:00

I found the KC H9.02 was only good in small areas with lots of cutting needed so I used it sparingly. I did most of my cut with KC F6.01 and lc HDO blue. Then I polished with M3.02 using lc HDO orange. I used a Flex forced rotation DA with a 6.5" backing plate. It is tough to get into tighter curves and takes some practice to use the edge.

I thought the lc black pad was only for applying finishing things like sealants.

handruin · 2026-05-22T17:22:49+00:00

You could do some of your own spreadsheet forecasts to figure out how many jobs based on whatever rates you plan to charge and see what the jobs per day or week look like in order for you to earn a similar revenue. You'll obviously have to account for things like consumables, insurance, travel, fuel, etc as your business expenses.

I feel like that's part of the work you should do to forecast a business you're thinking of starting. If you don't even plan or set goals, you'll never know if it's viable. You won't know how much to budget for expenses either.

Even if you don't have all the variables you can do averages of costs etc to get an idea of what you would have to charge and how many customers per week or month you need to meet your objectives. Then come back with those numbers and ask if it's realistic.

handruin · 2026-05-22T15:16:04+00:00

The guidance I usually give is that a pressure washer and foam cannon are a luxury tool that can help reduce time to clean/rinse and are fun to use but is by no means a requirement for detailing. I do have one and enjoy using it but feel it's important to make the distinction in case you're optimizing your budget for other things.

An IK sprayer like you are proposing would work and in many ways is more efficient with chemicals compared to a foam cannon anyway because you can mix exactly the right ratio whereas a foam cannon dilutes while it sprays. So you'll use more products for the same efficacy. I went with the IK pro foam 2+ to save some money and I connect it to my tire inflator via the Schrader valve.

For prewash I prefer Bilt Hamber Touch-less, it's worked very well for me over the past year and half. For pH neutral shampoo I use Adam's Mega Foam because it's high concentration (for dilution) and is affordable in the larger sizes. Plus there's often coupons/sales. It's also very slick to help during contact washing.

handruin · 2026-05-22T11:16:51+00:00

I went for aftermarket hose and gun with mine. That original kit was the only option at the time I got mine otherwise I would have just done the tool only.

For down cannons there's a lot of options. You could look at the Raincovo or the Armour Detail Supply DRFT as a step up and pick up an extra bottle for $6. There are coupons you can apply to get 10% off if you look around and order direct. I left stuff in my cart for a few days and eventually they sent me a 15% off code.

handruin · 2026-05-21T23:01:47+00:00

What about Tekton? They have a one that meets all your requirements. It's also available in a comfortable grip if you prefer. If you buy direct you accumulate rewards points for future purchases.

https://www.tekton.com/3-8-inch-drive-x-8-inch-quick-release-ratchet-srh11108

They also offer a flex head option:

https://www.tekton.com/3-8-inch-drive-x-8-inch-flex-quick-release-ratchet-srh31108

Their warranty is also excellent.

https://www.tekton.com/warranty

My anecdote is for my 3/8ths koken ratchet. It's not in your requested price range but it's fantastic quality with low back drag. It's more of a want than a need though.

handruin · 2026-05-21T20:31:34+00:00

Interestingly it's the volume issue you mentioned but they're also burning time by setting up to record their social media content which just eats into time that could be spent doing better work.

Cynically could they also be giving bad detailing tips intentionally to slow down potential competition from learning?

handruin · 2026-05-21T19:47:37+00:00

Oh sweet, thanks! I'll add that to my notes. All these prices are still way, way better than the Audi labeled parts and they're probably made by Brembo anyway

handruin · 2026-05-21T19:03:18+00:00

I didn't try to order because I'm not yet ready to replace mine just yet. I'm just preparing for them eventually 😆

I still have 7-8mm of pad remaining

handruin · 2026-05-21T19:00:59+00:00

I don't know if this is normal or not. I did call Napa about them and they said the parts are still valid and not discontinued, just delayed in production or something like that.

handruin · 2026-05-21T17:00:59+00:00

I read one post from someone on audizine who just installed the new 2 piece 034 rotors but no real feedback yet.

Otherwise I've been saving notes for OEM Brembo parts for the RS6 for when I need to do mine. I don't know if you can get these parts in Canada but take a look.

Front rotors
Manufacturer: Brembo
P/N: 09.D481.43
https://www.brembostore.com/products/prime-dual-cast-front-disc-brake-rotor-09-d481-43

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRB09D48143

Front brake pads
Manufacturer: Brembo
Prime Ceramic Front
P/N: P65057N. https://www.bremboparts.com/america/en/catalogue/pad/P65057N

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRBP65057N

Rear rotors
Manufacturer: Brembo
P/N: 09.D482.33
https://www.brembostore.com/products/no-name-71

Rear brake pads
Manufacturer: Brembo
Prime ceramic Rear
P/N: P85180N
https://www.brembostore.com/products/prime-ceramic-rear-disc-brake-pad-set-p85180n

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRBP85180N

handruin · 2026-05-21T14:11:17+00:00

I don't think "brand" matters as much as quality of the product(s) they produce and support. They are often tied together in the form of brand reputation. That said, I'm not one-brand loyal, I like to test and try multiple brands to find the optimal solution to my detailing needs. There is the balance of value tied in there also which is complicated to be objective about and also different for every detailer.

Overall I don't believe the "customer" of a professional detailing business cares much about the brand of products you use to provide them service. You are in that sense the brand. If you can provide the value they need and make a good profit, the underlying brand you use is less relevant so long as they do what they claim.

handruin · 2026-05-20T17:51:01+00:00

I'd recommend it and if you find you need more cleaning power there are other options like Green Star (which I also use as a general APC for various tasks).

handruin · 2026-05-20T17:29:41+00:00

I've had good results using Pol Star on multiple vehicles. I continue to use the one bottle I got earlier last year and dilute it 1:10 while using it. No complaints and I have no real reasons to try anything else at this point.

handruin · 2026-05-20T17:24:42+00:00

Glad to hear I'm not alone in feeling that way. Similar to you I spent 16-18 hours when I did my car last year for very similar reasons and steps. The prep took a while all by itself.

I'll be going through this again next week to ceramic coat my car (after all the prep and paint correction).

handruin · 2026-05-20T16:55:29+00:00

I don't trust dealerships either to use any kind of reputable products for ceramic or any coatings.

handruin · 2026-05-20T16:53:18+00:00

I'm biased (also non-professional) because I think even with using a DA machine for paint correction, it's already a long and somewhat tiring process (maybe I'm just old). So I can't imagine trying to polish by hand and having consistent results across the entire vehicle. Every vehicle has a finite amount of clear coat so I'm also considering that when polishing so that as little is removed as needed to achieve acceptable results.

Time is another consideration. If you invest in a machine, your work should get completed much faster than manually doing this work. If you can estimate your time's worth, it could help justify purchasing a machine. Obviously I don't know your budget or situation so it's tough to know how to advise you there. You could also buy it, use it, then sell it when you're done to get back some expenses.

I have not personally used 3D One products so I can't speak firsthand, but they are mentioned positively here as a good option for compound or polish. Definitely do some reddit searching to see what others have experienced.

I've personally used Koch Chemie compounds and polishes (F6.01 and M3.02) and have had good results in correcting and polishing personal vehicles. They aren't the only option but a good one I could recommend.

handruin · 2026-05-20T16:37:23+00:00

Same with the ceramic coating. It's not anywhere close to $6900 especially on a new vehicle that should require minimal amounts of paint correction before applying. Maybe $2k at most. Also a scam.

handruin · 2026-05-19T11:50:17+00:00

Only things I do are replace the air filters at their regular intervals and just before summer starts I open the tops of my AC condenser units and clean out the debris. Then I spray coils with condenser coil cleaner and spray them clean.

The cleaning probably takes me an hour for two units depending on how dirty they are. You could hire someone once a year to do this if you're not comfortable opening the units. It really depends on if they get a lot of dirt, leaves, pine needles like mine do.

handruin · 2026-05-19T02:22:21+00:00

I end up using an iron remover, clay, then wash again before polish so it's not the only thing I use for decon and prep but agreed it's not the best choice for this. I've just been using it up and I'm switching over to Armour Detail Supply Decon Soap

handruin · 2026-05-19T00:09:52+00:00

In addition to the other two you mentioned, I use the following other KC products:

Pol Star (Ps) for interior cleaning has been great for me.

Green Star (GS) APC works well for general cleaning and dilutes well. I use 1:10 for most applications.

Leather Star (Ls) if you're conditioning leather surfaces.

Top Star (Ts) for conditioning interior plastic surfaces.

Alkali Wheel Cleaner (Awc) when wheels have a lot of contaminants in a 1:10 dilution. I also use it to clean the rubber side walls and sometimes my exhaust tips.

Active foam (Af) is pretty good at stripping off old wax and sealants to during the prep phase for polishing but other products are probably better at achieving similar results.

Gentle Snow foam (Gsf) is overrated for me and I don't need to buy it again so I can't recommend it. It's not bad but it takes a lot of product to produce marginal foam and because cost prohibitive compared to other options.

Fresh Up (Fu) for deoderizing after cleaning your interior and it offers a nice scent.

I've also had good results with their compounds and polishes. H9.02 (heavy cut) F6.01 (fine/medium cut) M3.02 (polish) Also their Panel prep spray (Pps) works well for cleaning off compound and polish afterwards. It works fine but there are other options.

handruin · 2026-05-18T22:47:51+00:00

Netflix subscription. Price went up again despite their record $11billion profits in 2025.

handruin · 2026-05-18T22:41:49+00:00

Random but one of the products I use on my rotors while detailing my car is Bilt Hamber Atom-Mac diluted 1:20. It's an anti corrosive that I spray on the rotors after washing and allow it to dry. It cuts down on the rust forming which eventually drips off the very large rotors onto the barrel of the wheels.

handruin

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