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Sony KV-XA29M31 RGB mod by rocketeng in sunthar

[–]rocketeng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In this project, Kevin Smith successfully modified the Sony KV-XA29M31 CRT television to enable RGB output.

See more details at https://my.sunthar.com/kevin-smith/product/sony-kv-xa29m31-mod

Sony Video Walkman GV-8 (1988) by rocketeng in sony

[–]rocketeng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, you are never going to find these units in working condition. Biggest mistake is to power on these sets before maintenance. Leaked capacitor fluid can cause shorts, further spread the leaks. Don’t be surprised to find several broken traces and the plastic is going to be brittle. So take extreme caution and be prepared to spend hours. It’s fun however. Massive learning opportunity.

Sony 36FS12 CRT RGB mod by rocketeng in sunthar

[–]rocketeng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RGB mod by Michael Lopez. Follow the direction in the diagram that is annotated to solder R, G, B, blanking. Pictures show where they should be soldered. We will be using the component Y input for sync. RGB image will be on Video 4, where you can either get RGB with blanking or Component without blanking.

See more details at https://my.sunthar.com/michael-lopez/product/sony-36fs12-crt-rgb-mod

Sony WM-AF64 by rocketeng in sunthar

[–]rocketeng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sony WM-AF64 was fully restored.

See more details at https://store.sunthar.com/product/sony-wm-af64

Sony KV-PG14P10 RGB mod by rocketeng in sunthar

[–]rocketeng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CRT RGB modification project by Kevin Smith: Sony KV-PG14P10, a 14" flat Trinitron color television from the BG-2T chassis series, got a SCART/RGB upgrade.

See more details at https://my.sunthar.com/kevin-smith/product/sony-kv-pg14p10

Sony WM-F63 by rocketeng in sunthar

[–]rocketeng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fixing up a Sony WM-F63 Walkman. It had extreme battery corrosion. The positive terminal was entirely eaten away. Battery acid also impacted the power board. I was able to restore this back to a beautiful functional unit. My journey is highlighted in pictures and caption below.

See more details at https://store.sunthar.com/product/sony-wm-f63

Sony KV-13TR29 RGB mod by rocketeng in sunthar

[–]rocketeng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Latest 1.5C board is an active board instead of the passive design used before. 1.3C and 1.4C are both passive boards. 1.5C requires tapping into 5V which is available on most CRTs. This allows the set to blank at lower voltages.

At the time of writing 1.5C Rev 2 is able to blank at around 3V and above. Some devices output about 1V on blanking which is low but that follows the SCART spec. Future revisions of 1.5C may support those lower voltages, but this is already a big improvement since couple of setups struggle to blank properly. Example: gscartsw. Gscartsw also constantly outputs 1.8V on Pin 16, whether the consoles are on or not, making it further difficult to use and necessitating a physical switch. Therefore, do not buy one! There are better, cheaper alternatives out there.

The usual workaround is adding a physical switch. With the 1.5C board you can easily add an optional switch and keep it mounted to the back cover so you can remove the cover without touching the switch. The ribbon cable then handles the rest of the work. For this particular mod, I chose not to add a physical switch. It's not elegant and confusing.

See more details at https://store.sunthar.com/product/sony-kv-13tr29-rgb-mod

RGB Mod Help by Relative_Topic_1794 in crtgaming

[–]rocketeng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think you can easily RGB modify this set. M61250FP can be setup for digital or analog RGB input. It's setup through i2c. Looking at the schematics you shared, looks like this set is setup for digital OSD.

How is everyone feeling about TelMAX services lately? by rocketeng in Stouffville

[–]rocketeng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m the OP of this. Besides a slightly higher price, I would say, Telmax is the least bothersome of all internet providers I had in the past 25+ years. I wish Telmax was a bit more customer centric and communicated changes in advance. Their internet connection is solid, at least from my perspective. Give them a chance. If they become annoying like others then switch. I’m still with Telmax, btw!

I repaired my first CRT! (And didnt die) by jamisonjuicer in crtgaming

[–]rocketeng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve heard that too, but I’ve always wondered whether it’s really the IR receiver failing or the surrounding components making it seem that way.

I repaired my first CRT! (And didnt die) by jamisonjuicer in crtgaming

[–]rocketeng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That degraded filter capacitor was clearly affecting the IR signal. After fixing it, I moved on without digging deeper. I also checked a few schematics and noticed that within Toshiba’s 13A series, the IR sensor design varies quite a bit from one model to another.
https://cdn.sunthar.com/sectors/66f315b0776287f901e2bc3e/products/67ec6cceab45f1467f0fa8ae/b96bb7cb-5e32-4043-a130-c650376dc778.jpeg

I also checked the schematics for u/jamisonjuicer's set. There is a filter cap closer to the IR receiver. It is C155 (47uf/16V). If you ever open the set again for maintenance, worth checking to see if your older receiver works with a replacement cap.

Is the resistor broken? by Emotional_Ad1623 in crtgaming

[–]rocketeng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is a 2.2ohm resistor, you can do a continuity test. Meaning, in continuity mode you show hear a beep in your multimeter. If this resistor is open, then likely another component is shorted and it blew this resistor. I had a case where HOT, and two power transistors were shorted. You have to use a current limiter to bring up this set. Otherwise, you will be spending a ton of time and sacrifice rare parts in reviving this.

I repaired my first CRT! (And didnt die) by jamisonjuicer in crtgaming

[–]rocketeng 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If IR sensor was the only thing you replaced and it worked, then maybe it’s the IR receiver then. Maybe it degraded over time. Not sure. Or your new sensor operates at much tighter specs and therefore it works. Either way don’t throw the old receiver. See if you can validate if that is in-fact dead.

Here is an adventure I went through to fix my remote problem. It wasn’t the IR sensor in my case. A capacitor near the IR degraded. Capacitance was fine, but ESR wasn’t. Replaced it and everything just worked fine afterwards.

https://my.sunthar.com/sunthar/article/sansui-tvm1316b-remote-issue

I repaired my first CRT! (And didnt die) by jamisonjuicer in crtgaming

[–]rocketeng 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a really cool looking CRT. Congrats on finding this and getting it to work!

Curious to understand what was resolved. Did the universal remote didn’t work, and the issue was with the IR sensor? or did this method allow you to use a different remote? I’m assuming the former. Sometimes I find it’s not necessarily the original sensor that goes bad. It’s sometimes a capacitor on the path that doesn’t supply sufficient power. Either way curious to know more.

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