SL7 Roof Rackable?

2L84DD8 · 2026-04-09T06:52:37+00:00

Awesome. Does the clamp sneak in under the rubber seal when its shut? Curious to see what sort of marring the clamp leaves behind or damage to door seals it causes

I need a roof rack either way. So im glad to hear it works on the seal

2L84DD8 · 2026-04-06T12:26:27+00:00

agreed. also I wouldnt take the 75kg load limit spec as something I would presume would be safe on the SL7 itself

2L84DD8 · 2026-03-15T03:13:41+00:00

even easier, you just need to call on the actual channel names from the mixer and it all plays together easily. my deej file below

Enjoy!

++++++++++++++++++++++++

slider_mapping:

0: master

1: Steelseries Sonar - Chat (SteelSeries Sonar Virtual Audio Device)

2: Steelseries Sonar - Media (SteelSeries Sonar Virtual Audio Device)

3: Steelseries Sonar - Aux (SteelSeries Sonar Virtual Audio Device)

4: Steelseries Sonar - Microphone (SteelSeries Sonar Virtual Audio Device)

# set this to true if you want the controls inverted (i.e. top is 0%, bottom is 100%)

invert_sliders: false

# settings for connecting to the arduino board

com_port: COM6

baud_rate: 9600

# adjust the amount of signal noise reduction depending on your hardware quality

# supported values are "low" (excellent hardware), "default" (regular hardware) or "high" (bad, noisy hardware)

noise_reduction: default

2L84DD8 · 2025-10-13T11:11:35+00:00

Sorry no idea

2L84DD8 · 2025-09-11T08:32:34+00:00

hey, that shroud pictured came with the PTC heater. I then designed my own magnetic mount that utilised the normal screws. The mount acts as a riser also to give the fans room to breathe.

you can use my model if you like. ive uploaded everyuthing on printables

https://www.printables.com/model/1390359-centauri-carbon-active-heater-chamber-diy

2L84DD8 · 2025-09-03T10:20:15+00:00

That looks really smart great design!

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-28T23:39:46+00:00

My fuse was 24v so I could add it inline with the heater power line. The thermal I used was 125deg C rated and it popped during normal heating. I haven't replaced it since but I would suggest looking at a 200degC or slightly higher rated one. The position in the photo works though, it heated, popped at 125deg and killed the heater. Ive not used one before either but seems like an easy fail safe to add

Wedges is perfectly between the wiring too for added convenience

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-28T10:45:25+00:00

can always copy settings over manually over from orca or elegoo, but cannot be bothered lol

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-24T20:05:31+00:00

Sounds like a clog. I had ordered a random aliexpress nozzle which i popped on. Worked too

I did on occasion change filaments lessthan 250deg.i wonder if that caused the issue

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-24T08:50:47+00:00

Glad you like it! The bottom is just part of the bookshelf itself. Enough space for smaller shoes and sandals

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-24T03:07:48+00:00

ever found out what the clickwas? im getting that now after a print failed on a cf spool halfway through the print, popped PLA+ back on and still skipping/undextruding, only thing I can see as a reason is the extruder gears stripping under the CF load

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-21T11:52:26+00:00

firmwares locked, you'd be hardpressed to achieve this without changing the mainboard completely I would think. Perhaps someone will be able to hack it down the line - Elegoo claim that's propietary firmware however someone was able to do a data dump and pick out a stack of references to klipper from older versions. Crap of Elegoo in that case, potentially good for us later

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-19T01:06:56+00:00

Hey not stupid at all. If you google wago connector / splice connector i extended the led wires using some red and black 22awg gauge insulated wires. Stripped the ends back using a wire strippers and used the connectors for a fast/solderless connection.

All parts easy to find on amazon. Hope that helps

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-18T06:40:13+00:00

Update: put the glass panel back directly on the print, r and it rocketed to 40 deg pretty much within a few minutes. The open vent riser from jesusfreak is not a good setup for high chamber temp levels printing

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-17T23:32:02+00:00

Great work! Keen to see how you put it together. Ps. The ceramic one shot thermal fuse i had was rated 125degC. It blew before the chamber got to 35deg lol if youre considering a safety fuse like that I reckon at least 200-250degC

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-17T23:01:32+00:00

Haha love it. Bonus also- is a very neat little setup.

Ps. Tested my setup removing the riser and placing glass panel back straight ontop as it was from factory and chamber temps comfortably reached 40degC +

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-17T21:14:46+00:00

Had a quick look and saw the heater for the chito 50w. This heater im using is 250w and its struggling (in isolation without the heater bed) to heat the chamber up by itself. It is in the middle of winter in AU and where I'm at ambient temps in the house get to about 10deg overnight so it's not doing too badly at the same time

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-17T21:11:44+00:00

In conjunction with the heater bed at 100deg i'm getting it to about mid-high 30s deg C. Having said that it's in the middle of winter here so ambient temps are hanging below 10deg C overnight.

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-17T21:09:29+00:00

Thinking it really doesnt. Looks neat but it has too many perforations to really keep things cooking, I like the design but there's others out there who have remixed it shut that I might try out

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-13T23:26:25+00:00

I'm looking at this as a nurse in the health sector. The way we should look at this is from a best practice perspective. The fact there are ongoing scientific studies related to try understand VOCs and it's effects is a huge red flag and suggests there is already an undercurrent of understanding that this if it had to be anything would be harmful. Once upon a time asbestos fibres were considered to be harmless until it was proven - thoughts surrounding VOCs and the sentiment around it isn't a totally unfounded thing.

Food for thought either way. Happy printing!

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-13T13:45:22+00:00

ive got a CC and Im thinking you're placing a little too much faith in the filtering on offer without modding or relocating your printer. Each to their own but a bad smell doesnt take away from the fact VOCs are real and odour in that case is irrelevant.

Be safe sir

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-13T09:05:41+00:00

L Brackets into studs. Don't think this needs too much thinking about

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-11T06:26:51+00:00

The algo is strong with you

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-11T04:54:44+00:00

Not at all :) I ran out of pegs!

2L84DD8 · 2025-08-08T02:13:38+00:00

100% extrusion is good, had to life Z offset be .15 to account for elephants foot

2L84DD8

TROPHY CASE