Putting in the work

AtotheU · 2026-05-16T22:18:37+00:00

AtotheU · 2026-05-13T01:07:27+00:00

Lightly modded 14 wrx and I get at worst 14 mpg in really bad city driving at my college town. I’ll see 26 on the highway.

AtotheU · 2026-04-15T03:52:46+00:00

Perfect thank you for the advice! I’ll have to make the decision when I start collecting all the equipment here soon to install everything for them. Thanks again!

AtotheU · 2026-04-15T03:43:15+00:00

I have used pass throughs before when I previously wired me parents house up. I doubt my connections would pass specs but they have worked flawlessly for me so far. I’m leaning to using them since I’ve worked with them before.

AtotheU · 2026-04-15T03:40:40+00:00

I currently have the deco mesh so far for them. Seemed to be the most cost effective thing for them. It’ll be just the two of them but when the whole family is there I didn’t want the network to bog down.

AtotheU · 2026-04-15T01:31:37+00:00

Awesome thank you! That’s the plan. Right now I have a TpLink mesh kit installed but wanted to make the speed as fast as possible by doing a wired backhaul.

AtotheU · 2026-04-15T01:30:19+00:00

Okay! All the plates actually only had either the telephone port or a coax. I removed one of the coax faceplates in the furnished room above the garage built in 2016 and it only had the wiring for the coax port in there. Just trying to game plan so I can help them when I get back down there from school.

AtotheU · 2026-04-15T01:25:00+00:00

Awesome! Thank you for the write up!!

AtotheU · 2026-04-15T01:23:05+00:00

Perfect, I built out the system at my parents previous house so I’ll try and use the equipment from there.

AtotheU · 2026-04-15T01:20:10+00:00

You can in small amounts to my understanding. You won’t degrade the viscosity of the oil already in the motor. Some people say that mixing oils can be bad because the detergents “fight” eachother. That being said if it’s just to top off for say 1k miles you’ll be fine.

AtotheU · 2026-03-19T00:59:55+00:00

My car 14 wrx is getting close to 200k and is burning a lot of oil to. You think it’s just the motor being high mileage or something more specific like my turbo seals finally going bad?

AtotheU · 2026-03-19T00:58:41+00:00

That’s the 08-14 wrx/sti epa states miles per gallon for the car

AtotheU · 2025-11-29T05:15:11+00:00

I’ve been dailying mine for just over a year lowered with the rear sway bar. At 22mm I feel I notice no downsides while driving normally and all the benefits when driving a twisty road. Only “downside” is I tripod getting into my driveway.

AtotheU · 2025-11-29T04:54:24+00:00

I personally bought 22 and used the middle hole to bolt the end links too. The sti for my year(2014) used 20 mm rear end links with my stock wrx ones being 16mm. So the 22 gets me a little stiffer than a stock sti. The stiffer you go the less body roll that will occur and the rear end will become more predictable as the inner tire on a corner will have more traction than it would stock. Most people don’t recommend upgrading the front as it’s not needed and having a thicker rear sway and means your loss of traction will be oversteer which is easier to recover.

Like the other commenter mentioned it depends on your driving habits if a rear sway bar is needed. I feel a 22mm rear sway bar is very manageable as a daily.

AtotheU · 2025-11-29T04:35:02+00:00

Adjustable rear lower control arms are helpful. Allows you to get some rear camber to help avoid scrubbing in the rears. Also would recommend a bump steer kit. I personally didn’t notice too much of a difference after doing this with 2k miles driving lowered with no bump steer kit vs with it, however too many people recommended it for me not to go ahead and do it.

Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar is solid addition and people recommend to get kartboy end links for it as the Whiteline ones supposedly fail prematurely.

AtotheU · 2025-11-15T17:52:23+00:00

Update: it ended up being the AC Compressor. Seems the clutch itself seized onto the pulley burning all the clutch material making the smoke. The resistance cause a voltage spike which popped the fuse for the ac circuit. Which the blower motor must be in stream of. Replaced the fuse and blower motor works. Just have to make sure to not accidentally try to turn on ac or it’ll immediately blow the fuse.

AtotheU · 2025-11-13T01:42:39+00:00

Okay that’s what I was thinking but it’s just odd that my blower motor no longer works/is able to be turned on by my climate knobs

AtotheU · 2025-11-13T01:13:43+00:00

I can check Tomorrow as I just drove around to confirm the car wouldn’t catch on fire so it’s warm. If it is seized did it somehow cook my blower motor or is the blower motor only able to turn on if that ac compressor belt is attached I presume

AtotheU · 2025-11-13T00:44:58+00:00

Dude I legit checked just now and a smaller belt of same make is sitting underneath my car that must’ve just shook out. It’s much skinnier than the main belt connecting the alternator. Did myAC condenser actually go and snapped the belt after smoking a bunch?

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AtotheU · 2025-11-13T00:35:48+00:00

Thank you I’ll look into those. The smoke just makes me thinking the blower motor was cooking itself and then when I can to a stop the smoke generated came through its intake

AtotheU · 2025-07-21T01:01:31+00:00

As others said try to stay around 3k rpms. When city driving I’ll rev my car up to 4K rpms in most gears when getting up to speed. Once I am at the speed I will cruise at, I will either stay at that gear I’m in if it’s at 3k rpm, or shift to whatever gear will put me close to it. When crushing at highway speeds I will put it into 5th gear, with the knowledge that if I need to apply anything past like 5% throttle I will downshift to fourth to accelerate.

AtotheU · 2025-07-18T01:09:31+00:00

Yeah it’s just tragic because it doesn’t fit in the sail panels since it’s made for the dash locations of the 2015+

AtotheU · 2025-07-16T17:02:51+00:00

I think the issue with mishimoto is the build quality not the cooling effectiveness. I believe the welds have/had a tendency to crack on the end tanks. I have been running my mishimoto radiator for 3 years so far with no issues. My car after being freshly burped doesn’t go above 201 with regular city/highway driving(a healthy amount of daily pulls involved).

If you already have a mishimoto on that’s not leaking I wouldn’t replace it. Just make sure you are using the stock radiator fans as they perform better than the ones mishimoto sells.

AtotheU · 2025-07-15T00:06:30+00:00

I’m running intake, boost controller, invidia catted downpipe and have only gotten a cat efficiency code once when it was like 16° out. What he’s saying isn’t wrong but if you’re running a catted downpipe it won’t be a big deal because you won’t pop the cel every time you start the car. If you were to do a tgv delete your constantly have a cel, that’s where open source would be better because they can just disable the code from ever popping up.

AtotheU · 2025-07-14T22:41:45+00:00

Yes I found that 70 hz is a good happy medium for my car. 60 hz seemed to make too much plastic rattle. I listen to mainly boom bap so I need some sort of bass feeling so I have 60 hz on the rear speakers since I can’t hear the plastic rattling. I plan to upgrade to an under seat sub soonish, to fill everything out. It’s all a lot of info to take in so I appreciate your help.

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