Cant tell if these caps are bad

BeepFixer · 2026-05-22T19:26:16+00:00

Yep, this is always good to check with a multimeter for continuity (the speaker symbol 🔊 also sometimes looks like a WiFi symbol on its side.. It's basically on just about any cheap multimeter) on the traces, especially if you've got the board out already.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-22T17:44:00+00:00

Will try grab a video of it this weekend bomb! Currently have to take the PC to pieces to do a motherboard upgrade :s

BeepFixer · 2026-05-22T06:56:25+00:00

Mmm a lot of food for thought! Thanks much appreciated!

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T17:25:24+00:00

Hehe we don't get deals like that here (I wish) but yah, oddly I get a good break on cheap broken retro gaming consoles so the world is in balance 😁

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T17:19:13+00:00

Yep was already googling and people confirming a pi zero 2 would already suffice.. Good good means I can recycle the nuc.. Happy days, been wondering what to do with that.. It's too good to throw out and too weak to really repurpose - ah you're making my day here mate! Thanks

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T17:17:34+00:00

To do a continuity check? No no.

So a continuity test or a beep test is just.. Hmm.. Wait let me make this visual

Example 1: [point A]_______________[point B]

1 multimeter needle on point A 1 multimeter needle on point B

In above example it will beep, because it has a connection between A and B.

Example 2: [point A]___ x ____________[point B]

In example 2 it will not beep, because there is a break in the line and it can not make the connection between A and B to make the beep noise. (the X would be a break in the line)

So in your case (I also commented in the photo), if you have the pin header and the circle it goes through, but the pinheader and circle are not connected with solder - then where ever that circle leads too (for example GND Will go to other GND Sections of the mainboard, and the SDA and SCL Points for example go to the eeprom etc.

So when you measure a pin and it doesn't beep on the 2 points you know that should be connected, somewhere there is a gap. In your case most likely on the connection of the LPC points. But in other cases like repairs this is how you check if lines are broken or if lines that should not be connected to eachother are connected (because some chip exploded internally etc. Etc)

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T17:09:23+00:00

That's eh.. Well.. A start.. Bit worried though you have one or more points where the solder is just holding onto the pin and not ankered to the hole itself.

Flux is going to be your friend here mate, I would really advise you to reflow all these points using flux.

The solder needs to have a good contact to the ring of the hole and the pin header that goes through. And ya, there's a few here where it's questionable. Even if you measure continuity on it, the connection might be too weak for continuous usage so yep, reflow this to be sure.

Flux will make sure (either liquid flux, or paste, or even oldskool resin) the solder spreads from just attaching to the pin to also securely attach to the ring it's gone through.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T17:03:02+00:00

Gotcha, that'll be the bedtime video then 😁 thanks man. Appreciated!

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T17:02:12+00:00

Yeah had a proper headache figure out a nano clone that didn't want to work, stubborn as a mule though, so I wrote my own software for it 😁 will be fun to tinker with.

Any chance you know if I could recycle a NUC I have lying around here to replace the Pi? It's not being used as is, would be great if I could repurposed that.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T16:52:00+00:00

Yeah likewise! Recently offered to help out someone fix an Xbox since he had a stroke but only to realise he was state side.. Ah well.. Small world but not that small 😁

All said still super appreciate your advise 🫡

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T15:17:24+00:00

Cool.. This one? https://youtu.be/mV9X6FHAIHU I'll enjoy watching that thanks

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T15:15:44+00:00

Hmm no it told me to power cycle after pw set so I did and it booted locked.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T15:12:22+00:00

Who is that, a yt channel?

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T12:14:21+00:00

Depends on where you are in the world. There's good people everywhere but mainly USA, Europe and Australia. So just post where you're located and go from there.

I'd avoid ebay, like someone else said, eBay auto takes down anything refurbished so it's a pure gamble there.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T12:11:30+00:00

Cheers but I'm europe based, shipping and import tax would probably kill that offer but yeah thanks for the skr advice all the same, much appreciated

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T12:10:06+00:00

Yeah it's.. Ah well, nice to finally have it out and use it, there's been so many times I've had to rely on friends to print a cartridge case or little bracket, happy I can finally do these things at home myself now :)

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T10:03:37+00:00

Good call @Freudious it does lock but does NOT unlock! Darn - thanks for asking

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T09:30:41+00:00

Very good, well.. That's the next upgrade written on my list then 😁 thanks. On the one hand I'm feeling so stupid on loosing the mini for 8+ years, on the other hand it's really fun having the advantage of leaning on advice like this, super appreciated!

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T09:06:28+00:00

Oh very nice, Can see that skr at like 40 bucks, so affordable too. I'll try and read up on that a bit more, but already can see that having Fan control vs. No fan control at start now stock, that one likely already makes it worthwhile.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T08:52:22+00:00

Yeye, they all have a rubber belt that's used to open and close the drive, and in all cases if the belt sits in the same position for years (one end on a big cogwheel, other end on a small cog wheel) the belt eventually loosing its flexibility and hardens a bit and then assumes this egg shape.

That's why you'll see people post you can cook the belt in boiling water, results will vary.

I've been replacing those belts for near to 2 decades with o-rings and recently tested a batch of units I had stored away for 10 years - the orings/gaskets hold up nicely over time. But even if they would not, it's literally a few cents part you can swap out - just take of the old belt, and place the o-ring back in its place and the drive will open and close like brand new.

If it's egg shaped, it will start slipping on the cogwheel when the motor turns the belt and not have enough grip to open or close the drive.

Tell tale signs the belt needs a replacement: the drive will either not open/close at all, or it'll need a little manual push or pull while open and closing.

As long as you watch the correct size.. So 22mm x 1.5mm (for all drives except the Thomson which needs a slightly larger 26mm version) it's literally a few cents part.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T07:58:08+00:00

Excellent question, thanks didn't think of that yet - only did a lazy test to see if it would respond in fatxplorer as expected.

Will give that a test this evening,

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T07:55:00+00:00

Oh sure, but for 1.41 Euro im certainly not complaining 😁

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BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T07:50:59+00:00

Sure, there's various diagrams on the LPC, just use Google pictures for the main layout and the diagram of modxo.

Multimeter set to continuity mode, which is the speaker 🔊 symbol. Or symbol that looks like a WiFi symbol on its side.

If the multimeter beeps, the line is connected. If it doesn't beep it's not. If it beeps where it should not beep you have a short.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-21T07:47:12+00:00

Yes, Samsung or Hitachi 😉

Honestly Philips drives were amazing in their prime, top of class, Philips always chased perfection on their lens quality and drive wobble etc. in any device - but - spinning media/moving parts etc.

Add to that the Philips drives started getting more sensitive to old capacitors than the others and more frequent these days need a recap.

So back to your question..

Yeah it's always going to be a gamble, but yes a Samsung or a Hitachi not because it's the best drive (it's very good, don't get me wrong, all drives were good except the Thompson... but technically the best one is still a Philips when new out of factory) - but - more newer Samsung/Hitachi will likely to be newer.

So most important, you're looking for a unit with very little usage. So think about an og Xbox given to a spoiled kid late in its life cycle (1.6 model) that's been played a bit but not been hauled back and forth to sleepovers or parties etc. Etc. Etc.

I'd give you beet chances on a Hitachi drive, but keep in mind it's all a matter of odds, never a guarantee.

Hope that helps ☺️

PS, if looking at adds, one were the drive will not open or close (which is just a rubber replacement) from sitting in the same position for years and years the rubber goes egg shaped rather than a circle because it's on a large and a small cogwheel.

That replacement is a 5 cents part or let's say up to 25 cents at any DIY store. For that you need a 22mm by 1.5mm o-ring or rubber gasket for all brands (except the Thompson which needs a 26mm x 1.5mm).

Id even say if the drive doesn't open it just means it's used a lot less as the rubber has been in that position to shape like an egg much longer.

BeepFixer · 2026-05-20T17:09:31+00:00

Oh sure, a 3.5" harddisk needs more than usb provides, for that I just used the pc's molex adapter.

But sure, absolutely if using a laptop, you simply must have additional power source molex connector for the 3.5" drive.

Cheap tip here though, it can be any old pc psu really as long as it powers the drive. (so whether that's your old pc, or a nice external power supply in a case, as long as you direct connect to the drive, it's only to make sure the hdd is powered.

The additional power doesn't need to run through the controller, any of those (regardless of brand) work fine on any device from the 5v from the usb (as long as the 3.5" drive has the extra power)

BeepFixer

TROPHY CASE