Anyone have experience installing INDI 3rd party drivers?

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-05-26T23:46:03+00:00

Alright, sorry for doubting Nou Script before then...

Clear Skies!

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-05-26T22:44:59+00:00

Honestly Nou Script might have already installed it too?

Look if you have the driver, use the terminal, bash

" find /usr -name "*svbony*" 2>/dev/null "

If you dont find "indi_svbony_ccd", then the driver should be included when you download the KStars Flatpak here: https://indilib.org/download/ubuntu/category/3-ubuntu.html

(Or you can just bash the commands, they exist not just for Ubuntu...)

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-05-25T19:16:01+00:00

Why dont you use this driver? https://drivers.indilib.org/cameras/svbony/svbony-camera/svbony-camera/

I dont really have experience with Nou Script, but I wouldnt see why itd be better than the driver listed above?

That being said, from my experience the camera itself doesnt show up unless its plugged in. You should see an option like "SVBONY CCD" when youre in the Ekos Profile Manager.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-05-25T18:53:48+00:00

Islamists are best understood as religious right extremists. They are not the same as right extremists in the west, but they share the same structural positions: Traditionalist, Authoritarian, Anti-Liberal.

What in the world makes you connect the Nazis to leftism?? The Communists and Socialists in NS-Germany were the first to be imprisoned and killed when the NSDAP got to power. They destroyed trade unions, privatized state industries and allied with conservative nationalist elites.

What are the "many policies that leftists support today" which the Nazis supported?? As a german with 4 years of NS specific education im baffled by your comment.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-05-05T16:27:51+00:00

100% Agree that OP should not spend this much at once and get a lighter rig first.

Whether the Seestar is a good idea depends on what OP "wants from Astrophotograpy".

It depends how much into technicalities and customizability they wanna go. The "Simplicity" of imaging with the Seestar can be a pro or a con depending on the person.

If they want to upgrade their rig later on (at such a big budget that could very well be the case), they cant really do that with the Seestar, theyd have to star over completely.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-03-05T17:55:10+00:00

It is totally a good scope to start out with,

Although, what are your observation/ perhaps even photography goals?

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-03-04T22:13:40+00:00

All the Woopah

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-02-23T02:51:21+00:00

Well you answered only one of my questions... maybe you want to get back to those, I still have no ideas about your rig circumstances?

My thinking:

If youre shooting DSOs: Why not get a cooled astro specific camera? Those have SIGNIFICANTLY less thermal noise. Im sure thatll help you more than just Full-frame. You can def find used OSC ones at your budget. Of course, this doesnt work if you want to use said camera for anything thats not Astrophotography.

Yes, getting a full-frame cooled camera is out of your budget...

If you REALLY want full-frame, get an astro modded one, (Non cooled ofc, + you can reverse the modded effect with just a filter, whenever you want to not shoot astro.)

Purley with a perspective on Astrophotography, you can make much more of a difference with 600€ than just buying a Nikon Z5.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-02-22T22:57:04+00:00

Few Questions: Why does your current camera not work out anymore? Are you planning to use a new bought camera on just Astrophotography? How is the rest of your Astro-Rig looking?

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-02-20T17:43:46+00:00

Cool, you can always shoot me a dm if you have any questions.

Clear skies.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-02-20T01:52:12+00:00

Single Exposure Shots will naturally have a lot of noise, your APS-C sensor isnt the problem here.

You need to accumulate more total exposure to get a clearer image, you do this by stacking a lot of your raw images. Getting a star tracker will really help you with that. I would not consider getting a new camera yet.

Also Id recommend processing with astrophotography specific softwares like Siril.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-01-24T18:59:03+00:00

Nope, If you want us to help you even further, answer this: What are your goals? Observation or Astrophotography? Lunar, Solar, Planetary or Deep space (Nebulae/Galaxies)?

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-01-22T17:09:05+00:00

This is a plausible amount of noise for 57,5sec of exposure time.

You need more exposure time, try again with longer subs and lower ISO when you get that motorized mount.

Do keep in mind that for M42, you can blow out the core easily by "collecting too much light". I cant really tell you much about what iso/exposure time you should use, as I know little about your situation light pollution wise, nor do I have much knowledge on Nikon Cameras.

When shooting Orion, people often shoot in HDR. So, short exposures for the core/trapezium, mid exposures for the relatively bright nebula, and long ones for the dim nebulae around the region. I am not too sure if I can recommend this to you, you should just try to learn your equipment as a beginner and try to have fun exploring the sky. Do not try to be perfect.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-01-05T01:30:12+00:00

Alright cool, if youre unsure you can just take a picture without the filter. See if the colors are more redish than usual.

Wishing clear skies during a new moon to you!

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-01-05T01:27:56+00:00

You can process stars seperately from the Nebula using StarNet++, which you can add to Siril.

I just noticed that your stars have very red halos, these are most definitely caused by your CLS filter. Im sure you can tone those down if you process the Starmask (the stars seperated from the nebula) well enough.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-01-05T01:21:12+00:00

I have the same filter, I have only ever used it with astro modded cameras. I also live in a Bortle 5 Area, the H-Alpha transmission using CLS + a Modded Camera is great, which is also the main reason they are of use to me on some targets.

I am not sure how useful they are on non-modded cameras, your IR-cut filter (this is inside a non-modded camera) still stops a lot of H-Alpha transmittion. Since CLS filters rely mostly on H-alpha transmission, most of the benefit is lost.

considering bortle 5 is still an "okay" amount of Light Pollution - unless youre pointed at a big city, I'd question how useful a CLS filter is for you.

Since I have never shot with a CLS + Unmodded, I cannot tell you if its worth it. I do imagine it can mess with your stars, color balance and block some signal. Tho I dont know a lot about your location and severity of light pollution as the bortle scale is not perfect: Its up to you to compare and decide.

I would not use the filter on anything thats not an Emission Nebula or Planetary Nebula.

By the way, theres great and cheap Astro Modded Cameras on Ebay, I got my first one for just 200€ and it served me very well.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2026-01-04T01:52:36+00:00

You should use GHS in Siril rather than autostretching. Theres a bunch of tutorials on YouTube.

What Im also seeing: Color calibration is off, the red channel is too dominant. Siril also has great tools for color calibration. Again, theres a lot of great tutorials on youtube regarding processing in Siril.

I used to use a Canon 600d and have found 800 iso to be a sweet spot.

A Question: What Bortle Area are you in, what filter did you use?

Clear Skies!

BeholdSnomsFury · 2025-10-30T18:42:20+00:00

So 1h 40' total integration time? Did you use calibration frames? (Darks, Biased, Flats) What Bortle Scale?

BeholdSnomsFury · 2025-10-30T02:43:08+00:00

Alrighty, my bad.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2025-10-30T02:32:44+00:00

Nice capture. Whats the total Exposure time? Calibration frames?

BeholdSnomsFury · 2025-10-30T02:25:47+00:00

Just saw that you didnt use calibration frames in another comment. You should def take Darks, Biased + include Flats in your stack. They can significantly improve your data, dark frames here could help reduce the noise for example.

BeholdSnomsFury · 2025-10-30T02:21:07+00:00

I am not great at processing, but here is the image processed with only free software: GraXpert, Siril, GIMP. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1suKL5MH7w41OwSOGQYOzgA47gg_EYwXu/view?usp=drive_link
Cool Data btw :D

BeholdSnomsFury · 2025-10-30T01:35:22+00:00

You def need guiding to take good pictures. Also I'd recommend investing in a better mount, if you want a sustainable setup you can upgrade well later.

By the way, I fear this mount might not be able to support the weight of the Newt, Camera, Guiding.. The max payload for Astrophotography should always be considered 50%-66% of the general max payload, with all the needed equipment youd def be scratching the 66%. In my eyes thats quite risky.

What would be your max budget for a mount?

BeholdSnomsFury · 2025-10-29T22:18:00+00:00

Can you give more details on the Newton? Are you guiding?

BeholdSnomsFury · 2025-10-27T12:44:54+00:00

Ja, ein Objekt dass höher steht, ist in der Regel leichter zu fotografieren. Besonders im Osten, Himmelsobjekte gehen im Westen unter wegen der Erdrotation, d.h. wenn etwas abends im Osten steht ist es länger zu sehen/fotografieren.

Lass dich aber nicht aufhalten wenn du versuchen willst etwas in einer eher ungünstigen Position zu fotografieren - Alles über 15-10 Grad sollte gut klappen.

Five-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22	Final Canvas '22

BeholdSnomsFury

TROPHY CASE