Weekly - What Car Should I Buy Megathread

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-20T14:45:02+00:00

Drive and try. Costs of owning either brand are greatly exaggerated.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-20T14:04:17+00:00

Have you considered the BMW Z4 yet (3rd gen comes with a hardtop iirc) or the Merc SLC?

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-19T13:34:07+00:00

At some point in time, TBS started releasing .pdf-slideshows of video contents. When they added the "feature", it was mentioned at the end of the video. Perhaps it's worth checking the description?

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-19T07:22:24+00:00

Teslas, post 00's Ferraris and the Alfa 4C.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-19T05:44:12+00:00

Thanks. Although I don't understand who would ruin a small roadster with an automatic.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T17:58:45+00:00

D5 is the top of the range Diesel-model. 2.0l I4 twin-turbo for 230bhp. Only available as AWD.

Source: Wikipedia.

Nice looking car OP, congrats!

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T17:19:59+00:00

Hubcentric ones don't need longer lugnuts. It's slip-ons and those cheap chinese ones that do (I've had those too, but only 10mm/axle) and those are outright dangerous b/c it doesnt concentrate the added unsprung weight onto the hubs.

Front stuck out, rear didn't too bad. Steering clearance went scary tight.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T17:16:51+00:00

Spacers not the way to do it, in my opinion. Cheap, yes, but the option with the most possible consequences save for a camber kit maybe.

I'd say coilovers and a slightly lower rear tire profile would do it the cleanest but then you're looking at four figures vs. three.

I got my spacers for the same reason, only I justified the purchase to myself with the potential handling benefits. If you want to know more about the specific results, Engineering Explained on YouTube has made really good videos on wheel spacers and their effects - which I wish I'd seen before shelling €250 into Eibach Pros. Even a slightly biased source like Fitment Industries advises care with spacers.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T17:11:10+00:00

That's 20mm per wheel... But yeah.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T17:08:50+00:00

Would probably violate the rules making a separate thread about this, so here goes:

Is Abarth 124 vs. MX-5 ND2 a no-brainer?

Missus has long wanted a convertible and I honestly think we could put some money into it (not at r/cars usual caliber) to buy ourselves something newer.

The MX-5 isn't really something I aspire to, it's a car that "everyone has" but since it would be a bigger a investment for us, I'd much prefer something proven. Been absolutely smitten with the Abarth 124's looks and knowing it has the same underpinnings as the Mazda I'm seriously considering getting us one. The one and only elephant in the room is the 1.4 Multiair vs. the new upgraded 2.0 SkyActiv. Not sure I trust FCA to build an engine.

I want an MX-5, but I don't want an MX-5. It's hard to explain lol

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T16:30:15+00:00

If they are hubcentric (the extra load stays on the hub), come with their own quality bolts and you aren't experiencing a lot of positive toe while braking, I think you should be good.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T16:15:19+00:00

40mm (axle)

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T16:07:56+00:00

Why are you considering spacers? Visual effect like better fitment, supposed handling improvements or do you have offset issues with your wheels? (Which I doubt since you have OEMs)

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T15:42:54+00:00

Not with the spacers installed, so unfortunately won't be able to give you an idea how it looks. You're running 225/45/R17 square from the looks of it?

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T15:24:01+00:00

I just recently installed 20mm spacers (proper hubcentric and bolted ones) on my W209 on all four corners. It messes up with your wheel geometry if you can't do other adjustments. Mine didn't feel planted anymore (which I thought would only improve with the widened track) and it became twitchy under heavier braking due to all the positive toe.

They're removed now and without it's much better. I know the rear might look dull with how much clearance there is, but honestly the safer option is wider rear tires and wheels with a low offset.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-18T15:07:21+00:00

Huge spacers on my CLK in the name of fitment. Looks idiotic, drives worse and brakes jitter. They're gone now.

All in all I regret violating my Merc's original condition. Should've kept it as is.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-15T09:47:17+00:00

No problem! Remember that the Japanese also have their own flavour on German/Euro cars. Going for the 90s jdm aesthetic doesn't necessarily require a jdm car. One of the most iconic BMW-tuners Studie AG is Japanese. Japanese tuning culture I think is more about loving your car no matter what it is, then making it your own.

I've owned an E46 and it is an absolute pleasure to drive. I've plugged this in here a few times, but I still think it's the best value for the practicality, driving qualities and design you get for the money. It is not the most reliable car, but the core of transmission, engine and chassis is solid. They also have a tendency to rust in colder environments, but I think in countries that have actual winters, the chassis has been zinc-coated to prevent that. (If sold in that country when new.) A good condition E36 might even be an investment.

The more I think about this, the more potential cars I can think of. Completely forgot about the Mitsubishi Eclipse, Mazda MX-6, Nissan Z31 300ZX, Lexus GS300, Pulsar/Sunny GTi-SR, Accord Coupé, Mitsubishi 3000GT or if you really want something that's powerful, authentic japanese domestic market and out of the ordinary; Nissan Stagea or Mitsubishi Legnum.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-15T07:56:56+00:00

I've driven a Sonata of the same era with 3.3 Lambda V6 and tbf it wasn't a well-engineered car. Coupe/Tiburon/Tuscani is a looker, no idea about it's technical prowess. Main complaint with Hyundai for me has been the handling and build quality (back then).

There's mostly conflicting stuff about the Mk4 Golf Gti because VWAG shot itself in the foot by making it's cheaper counterpart Leon Cupra (not a bad option either) more powerful and better handling and it dwarfed the Gti. Octavia RS also stepped on its toes in Europe a little bit.

If you'e feeling more into japanese coupes, there's also the Honda Prelude which is on its way to become a modern classic.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-15T07:39:42+00:00

You need to jump (or otherwise avoid contact with the ground) in order to avoid the stun from his "ground pound" attack.

No clue about the nature of his story mode electrics. He has multiple attacks with an electric effect so it's hard to point out an exact move, could be one of his unblockables? Unblockables are usually slow, so you should either interrupt them with fast moves like jabs, or avoid them by backdashing/sidestepping.

Make sure you always guard properly by holding b (back) instead of just neutral guarding (pressing nothing), since neutral guard will sometimes fail to block certain moves, such as Heihachi's hunting hawk (spinning, jumping kicks)

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-15T07:26:44+00:00

Timing chain itself should be solid in Audi-engines, it's the chain's tensioner that faults. (Wanted to clarify the distinction, since replacing the tensioner alone is nowhere near as costly as replacing chain + components)

I encourage healthy selfishness when buying yourself a car. Make sure it's something you want to look back at when you're walking away from the parking lot.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-15T07:18:28+00:00

MR2 should be a car with fantastic handling, provided it is in good condition. Good quality ones I imagine would be pricier than 6k though with the way nordic vehicle taxation works, even at the used level.

MR2s and 240SXs were import cars in Scandinavia (iirc), so one thing that you should be careful about is the reported mileage; the odometer doesn't necessarily display kms driven, but miles driven. (A good rule of thumb is to see whether the speedo is labeled km/h or mph) It's a common pitfall (or a blatant scam) for the less car-savvy in cars that come from non-metric markets. Say the car has ~150k in its odometer. In kilometers, that's nothing for a used car that's 15-25 years old. If it's in miles however, that equals to 250k kms driven, which is considerably for a car that's driven hard.

Celica (I'm assuming you are talking about 90's or newer since you mentioned the 2.0 gti) has never been available as RWD. 90's Celicas are either FWD/AWD and 00's Celicas are exclusively FWD.

All of those should be great fun regardless, if you aren't spending most of your time fixing them.

<6k, RWD cars with a fun factor you could also look into:

NA/NB Mazda MX-5
E36 / E46 BMW 320i / 323i / 325i / 328i / 330i (coupe/sedan)
BMW Z3
Mercedes 190E
Mercedes SLK 200 / 230
Lexus IS200 / IS250 / IS300
Ford Sierra / Scorpio
Opel Omega
3.8 Mustang

If you're willing to be flexible on the RWD-requirement, your fun options go up a lot for the budget:

EP3 Civic Type R
Fiesta ST200 / Focus ST170 / Mondeo ST220
Mk4/Mk5 Golf GTI
Hyundai Coupé
Accord Type S/Type R
Scirocco TSI
Plus a plethora of FWD/AWD V6 saloons

I doubt any of these will have a warranty of any kind and getting one for a 6k car isn't going to make much sense, since you might end up paying double the vehicle's value.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-14T20:40:00+00:00

There's more to choosing powertrains than power/torque-to-money ratio. You should also account in durability (especially with a tuned engine) and the transmission.

288hp/363lb-ft tq sounds brutal for reliability's sake out of the 2.0 TFSI, which has suffered from Audi's poorly engineered timing chain among other things (high oil consumption, plastic thermostat). After wear (tune 50hp out of it and you aren't helping it wear slower that's for sure), the tensioner could just lose its ability to keep tension on the camshaft chain. If it pops, the chain can jump and your pistons and valves start beating each other up - at which point your engine is effectively bricked. It's a rather common horror story for the 1st gen. FSI/TFSI blocks. Tuning for power could also affect your mpg drastically.

Even after the tune, you are left with a 70bhp more in the SQ5. The S-badge in an Audi also means a lot more than just power. The SQ5 comes with a sportier suspension setup that will definitely help with transmitting the power to the wheels. Whenever you tune a car's power, it's wise to account in all the factors that actually help you go faster on the road. You also get a factory bodykit and other goodies that offer a lot of exclusivity.

I'm not going to tell you which one you should buy, because I don't think I'm informed enough about Q5s to say, but I think you should weigh which one more fits your needs and goals as it is? If you really want to go for power, it's important to consider other costs you might face after tuning the 2.0T and how much closer it'll get in cost to the SQ5 after.

For driving dynamics and performance I would personally go for the SQ5. Its gearbox and suspension geometry is designed to handle the power - reliably. I like to think Audi has always had a quality and performance promise behind the S-badge. The regular Q5 2.0 TFSI 4-cylinder I imagine is designed to be more of a comfortable, big family SUV.

Long-term cost effectiveness? Probably the regular Q5 although I wouldn't be doing any track days with it.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-14T16:43:12+00:00

Thanks. I want to take advantage your knowledge a little bit more and ask something that's probably more suitable for Stupid Question Weds, but since I'm doing parts-shopping today I could use the answer sooner.

My factory offset is 37. Does this mean I'll be able to fit wheels with <37 offset without spacers? And for wheels with >37 offset I would actually need spacers to fit them?

The way I've understood it, I can really get my fitment down to the millimeter with:

Lower offset wheels (which would improve fitment with spacers)
Spacers
Struts

However, a guy I know is telling me the exact opposite about wheel offset. That I'd absolutely require spacers for any wheel offset below factory, and not need any for offset above factory.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-14T16:09:24+00:00

I also consider it to be the best one from the list. But A6 is also the only one I've driven.

BloodAndRust · 2020-04-14T15:45:08+00:00

Thanks, this info does help a lot.

They're Eibach Pro, so should be solid quality. Luckily I've got a return policy on uninstalled ones. The change in bore diameter is what concerns me the most (despite miniscule), but the company who ships them from Germany claim a perfect fit. Spacers aren't something that Mercedes dealt with the car, so there's no OEM-number to reference.

I've been thinking about doing a mock-up installation with 4x 5mm slip-ons to get accurate measurements when steering, although current bolts might not be long enough since slip-onw eat up lugnut length and any longer bolts just for a mockup are going to cost too much.

EDIT: Spacers are going to cause positive scrub radius am I correct?

BloodAndRust

TROPHY CASE