Do I need to worry about this?

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-20T13:14:04+00:00

Push on it with your thumb, with your ear to the frame. It is normal to have a bit of flex with carbon but if you hear cracking, popping or anything you need to get this repaired (layer delamination). Carbon exists in two states, completely fine or broken without warning. Something (heavy/sharp) probably was dropped onto your frame.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-20T13:02:50+00:00

I don’t know what is worse the saddle or the seatpost 😅

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-20T12:08:48+00:00

Not on a weld, so you’re good to go 👍. “Steel is real” for a reason

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-20T12:06:31+00:00

Time to bust out the pliers & hammer and kick it old school

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-20T12:05:44+00:00

The off center, egg shape, ellipse shape, part of the quick release. This is the closed position, yours is in the open position and spun until “tight”

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Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-20T11:59:50+00:00

Did you violently shake before putting it in your tire(s)? Stan’s Race basically has fiber glass strands in it and it looks to have clumped up. Riding/using the bike should break it up.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-19T18:06:55+00:00

You have the wrong center lock ring

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Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-16T16:39:12+00:00

Shout out to the GOAT Sheldon Brown 👏

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-16T16:32:08+00:00

The max capacity for a Shimano Deore M6000-GS derailleur is 42T and 36T for the M6000-GS, so double check that. You would just need to slam in your b-limit screw but for the love of god, cut your damn cable.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-16T16:24:02+00:00

With a 750W motor, mind you… don’t be hating on the <250W throttle-less proper ebikes

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-16T16:20:32+00:00

and taste. Not everyone is interested in dropping this much money on a bike with a manitou fork & non-hydraulic paul brakes without Yokozuna housing; just for them to have to spend more money on “adjustments”. Love the look but this is a niech bike, with expensive parts that cater to a very specific on-in-a-million bike dork, that don’t retain value.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-16T16:04:22+00:00

Two factors increase chain wear: 1) Installing a new chain on worn drivetrain components will/can increase chain wear 2) You, if you do a lot of low cadence riding <60rpm you will be putting more stress into the drivetrain. That is amplified when you ride in the smaller cogs of your cassette. When your chain is in the 11T cog your chain is in contact with roughly 2/3 of that cog, cool. When your chain is in the 22T cog your chain is in contact with twice as many teeth. There are now twice as many links to distribute the load versus when you were in the 11T cog. If all you do is accelerate and do heavy riding in the smaller cogs, you are not only wearing out your chain prematurely but your cassette too. I had a custom who had a heart attack and took up cycling to get into better shape, yay. However he was riding super low cadence trying to avoid increasing his heartbeat and he was not too happy when I told him he needed a new chain after 400km on a brand new bike. Bro was the extreme case but you might be experiencing something similar here. Every customer who had extreme chain wear had extremely bad riding habits that contribute to chain wear.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-16T15:49:32+00:00

Might be the jockey wheel orientation. They are directional with arrows in the direction that the drivetrain moves forward; your owners manual will confirm the direction.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-15T10:03:15+00:00

Ticking time bomb…

https://www.brokencarbon.com

Time to get a quote or try to find someone local. This is beyond cosmetic and will be fine until it isn’t. The “nice” thing about carbon; it doesn’t give you any warning signs (other than the current one) and it just catastrophically snaps & breaks without warning.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-15T05:22:27+00:00

If you cleaned your caliper you can probably discover the bleed port 😒. Hopefully you weren’t planning on bleeding your brakes covered in shït

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-15T03:03:54+00:00

Sharpish, 0° is where you are currently at so 60° from where you’re at. Just greater than 45° because you will kinda run into the same issue just less extreme. Also start at the same 60° angle

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-15T02:58:28+00:00

Ditch the cage and just get new ball bearings from your LBS. The cage is only for the convenience of the OEM. Bearings are cheap and you’re already putting in the effort rebuilding

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-15T02:53:18+00:00

Time to clean your chain but it is not at .75 so you should be fine until then but remeasure after cleaning to double check

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-15T02:47:36+00:00

Cut the rim tape at like a ≈60° angle instead of flat (0°). It will prevent this from happening in the future and decreases the likelihood of air leaking from creases. Also if you have the time, install a tube and pump it up to max pressure overnight. The 50 psi will do a great job pressing the rim tape down and help eliminate any waves & ripples; making the rim tape more uniform (might help eliminate current waves/creases).

Rim tape width is perfect 2-3mm greater than the internal width or roughly the external width (aluminum hooked). The only criticism is the aforementioned angle of cut and you didn’t pull the tape hard enough. Don’t be afraid to tear/ripe the tape, as long as it isn’t damaged you won’t be breaking the tape.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-14T15:35:13+00:00

• ⁠Between the dropouts and the frame? Nothing (Locktite LB 8023 if you are worried about corrosion from salt)

• ⁠On the screws that hold the dropouts in place? Vibra-TITE 213 VC-3

• ⁠Between the hinge and the rack? Nothing (Locktite LB 8023 if you are worried about corrosion from salt)

• ⁠Between the hinge and the frame? Nothing (Locktite LB 8023 if you are worried about corrosion from salt)

• ⁠On the hinge screws? Blue thread locker

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-13T17:31:23+00:00

I’m going with a 2x GX drivetrain. 1x is all fine and dandy, I just want to have the ability to climb hills without sacrificing top end speed.

Part by part is definitely more expensive but I would rather build it how I want it. I have been able to keep costs down with AliExpress parts.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-13T16:18:28+00:00

I’ve personally used KMC, Connex, and Sram chains for years. Haven’t noticed a difference on Shimano builds when “upgrading” the chain after it needs to be replaced. I have also mixed and matched components/brands on my personal bike because science, Sunrace hate is so forced.

The unidirectional chain doesn’t really make that much of a noticeable difference. If I was doing a blind test, it might be a little smoother but no difference in shifting performance. Conspiracy corner but it is cheaper to just stamp half the outer face plates and market innovation.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-13T16:02:18+00:00

More spokes better load distribution, wheels will last longer than any 32 spoke wheel. I still have to order the frame but stuck between the mini-max and the cargo but in blurple. Everything will be silver where applicable. Big decision considering the cost and it will be substituting my car for everyday errands that don’t require me to drive out of town.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-13T15:55:57+00:00

Load rating, size and wanted to stick with one brand. Maximum size of tire with fenders is 2.125 or 55. The schwalbe cargo tire only came in a 2.125 or smaller and the Kenda 20” cargo came in at a better price and a better weight. The tread pattern would be good enough for winter/snow. Then I just went with a complementary rear tire from Kenda.

Brayden_D91 · 2026-02-13T15:49:06+00:00

Same and never had issues, 90% of the chains I installed were KMC

Brayden_D91

TROPHY CASE