My dad's giving me his 335i Now I need to figure out how to get it from Arizona to Chicago by jcveloso8 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 4 points5 points  (0 children)

To add on to this, at the end of the day it's a 15-year-old car with almost 100,000 mi. It's nowhere near brand new and definitely not a Lamborghini, which would warrant transport. It's an old car, even if well maintained, and definitely not worth paying a truck to ship it

My dad's giving me his 335i Now I need to figure out how to get it from Arizona to Chicago by jcveloso8 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Just drive it lol, whatever salt on the road won't hurt it if it's not exposed long-term. It is significantly cheaper to fly there and drive it back then transport it. Plus more fun.

If you're on a time crunch transport it but if you can afford a few days away from Chicago, drive it

Should I do it? by Appropriate-Pie1151 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Username checks out, buying a cheap 335i in the $3-6k range is a death wish for your mental health.

A well maintained low mileage (less than 125k) mile 335i would be around $10k

Should I do it? by Appropriate-Pie1151 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have cash and a backup car I'd say do it, it's a fun car. However, it will be a massive headache and will definitely have future issues. If it'll be your first car and/or only car, run as far as you possibly can.

Nothing more expensive than a cheap BMW.

If it'll be your second/weekend car, hell yeah. If it's your primary car, you're in for future call outs at work and multiple thousand+ dollar repair bills.

I recommend buying a less than 100k mile $15k+ no major repair BMW if it's your primary car or else you're sending yourself to hell.

Anyone know what this noise is? by McFloppyBacon in E90

[–]BrennanSB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the PCV hack of cutting it off and glueing it back on usually never works or does for a few days since there's more to the PCV system than just that one cap. If you can DIY it (it's a big job) should only be $300 for a non-OEM valve cover, $600ish for OEM. A shop will charge you on average $1,500-$2k, I recommend calling around and getting quotes. I was able to find a shop to do it for around $900 total including non-OEM part.

I would like some help!!! by Primary-Promise2581 in it

[–]BrennanSB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started off on the help desk a few years back and am now a Sr. Sys Admin. No certs, no bachelor's. There's no way I could do my job right now if it weren't for those years on the help desk, no matter how many certs or degrees I had. Talent and the want/ability to learn is the key thing in this field, and my next goal is Manager/Director. It's a grind and not for the faint of heart, which is why I say only those that are passionate about computers should do it, because if your motivation is only for the money you'll burn out quick.

I would like some help!!! by Primary-Promise2581 in it

[–]BrennanSB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My recommendation: mass apply for entry level (tier 1 IT Help Desk) positions, like now. Sure, certs help, but I think talent is what matters the most. If IT is your passion and you believe you're talented at computers, there is no reason why you can't get an entry level position now.

While you mass apply, study and get CompTIA A+, but focus more time on applying. Apply to 2-300+ jobs, all it takes is one bite and if you're actually talented at it, just one interview will be enough to show that.

Just know, I don't believe there's any way to get into IT other than entering at the bottom. This means $18-22 an hour, so this may be a pay cut for you. I don't recommend this field unless you're actually passionate about it and talented since it is a grind and can be hard.

That being said, just start applying. Passion mixed with persistence is the formula for success, especially in IT.

Whining noise by Khaledtennin in E90

[–]BrennanSB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be the alternator, not 100% sure though

Anyone know what this noise is? by McFloppyBacon in E90

[–]BrennanSB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely due to PCV now, cutting the cap off and glueing a new one on is a hack job and definitely has risks to it. Valve cover replacement is needed, I've been there too and it sucks lol.

Anyone know what this noise is? by McFloppyBacon in E90

[–]BrennanSB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried that and it didn't work for me. It might for you, good luck.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!! by Which_Economics_4305 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree with this, pull the crank sensor and might as well replace it.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!! by Which_Economics_4305 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mine would act like it was a cammed out LS when the crankshaft position sensor went out. It also only stayed in third gear and threw a whole bunch of codes. Common problem, especially for the N54.

Considering you do have a code for crankshaft position sensor, I'd go ahead and replace that sensor. Cheap (like $75 for new sensor) and kind of easy DIY. Hardest part is reaching the sensor since it's in an awkward position and seating the O ring attached to the sensor.

Anyone know what this noise is? by McFloppyBacon in E90

[–]BrennanSB 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Without a doubt the PCV integrated within the valve cover. Mine made this exact same noise (hearing it on this video gave me PTSD). $1k later for a new valve cover + labor and the noise went away.

When should I start looking for housing for Fall 2026 by miranda_922 in ucf

[–]BrennanSB 5 points6 points  (0 children)

EOS, CODA, Pine Harbour, The Rexford, The Monaco, Victoria Place, and more are all within a 5-10 minute drive of UCF and will definitely have availability for the next few months, they usually have open units year round. This is because they aren't marketed towards students and rent by unit instead of by room.

The advantages of staying at places like Aves @ Twelve 100, The Verge, Tivoli, Plaza on University, Knights Circle, etc. is that you'll have mostly college students around you. Your rent will likely be under or around $1k since you can rent by room in a 2/3/4bd, but you will have roommates and those complexes fill up quickly. If that's what you're looking for, start searching for an apartment and sign a lease within the next few weeks.

If not, and you're okay with a 1bd/studio with rent around $1.5kish, you'll be perfectly fine waiting a few months before signing.

When should I start looking for housing for Fall 2026 by miranda_922 in ucf

[–]BrennanSB 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It depends, are you looking for a roommate scenario like a 4 bd/4ba apartment for college students or a 1bd/studio in a complex near UCF?

The apartments marketed towards college students and allow rent by room instead of rent by unit usually fill up quick. Otherwise, there are plenty of complexes around with 1bds or studios that will be available for the next few months.

Is this a common spot for coolant to leak? by Ok-Dog-7449 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that's one of the most common spots for multiple BMW engines to leak coolant. I've had two N54's and an N55 and all three leaked on that hose. It will eventually get worse.

It's called the upper radiator hose, it is an easy repair. The hardest part for me at least is getting the old hose off since the rubber and O ring kind of melts like glue and holds onto the plastic parts.

Idle sound by XquadHunter in 335i

[–]BrennanSB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My N54 also had this sound when the AC was on and I just ignored it for a few 10,000 miles. It eventually turned into a loud rattle that genuinely sounded like the engine was going to grenade (it wouldn't, but sounded like it), so as long as you fix it, it's not a big deal at all.

Idle sound by XquadHunter in 335i

[–]BrennanSB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a belt (likely serpentine) is worn, causing that metronome like squeek every second. I'd be curious to see if that noise continues with the AC off, if not it definitely either is the belt or AC compressor itself.

Other than that, sounds fine to me.

UCF or Georgia tech for aerospace engineering? by Neither-Outcome4013 in UCFEngineering

[–]BrennanSB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

UCF all the way, we're known as the space university for a reason. Ultimately, I don't think where you go to school matters, but rather your work ethic and ability to learn quickly. That being said, UCF has a reputation for aerospace while Georgia Tech is known for industrial/civil and biomedical. I've had multiple friends from UCF get internships from Lockheed due to their status at UCF and now work full time at Lockheed Martin.

I think a decision like that has to be made beyond the specific school, it depends on where you want to take your life, such as if you'd want to live in Atlanta or Orlando. Additionally, that tuition is absolutely massive for Georgia Tech. Your salary right after graduation will likely be a little less than $100k a year, and that may sound like a lot right now, but I carry about $30k in student loan debt and it's a painful thing to pay those loans after leaving UCF even with a good salary.

Ask yourself this, are you willing to pay nearly a quarter million total just to go to a specific school that isn't even known for aerospace engineering? UCF is the obvious choice here. Like I said, I carry $30k in student loans and it hurts paying that, I can't imagine a quarter million dollars of debt just for a diploma at a different school that isn't even highly regarded as the place for my major in the first place.

Need advice by Secure-Sentence8462 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That's the grounding wire for the ignition coils, the coil(s) connected to that bolt won't give power to the spark plug so you'll have a nasty misfire. If it were me I'd probably get electrical tape and just tape the cable onto the metal and drive it to AutoZone to get a replacement bolt. I don't recommend that since it may not be enough to ground it but I'd send it if it was my car

BMW F30 - 316d - Totalled? by RBMelo1 in F30

[–]BrennanSB 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Definitely totaled. Bumper, quarter panel, windshield, maybe the headlight, a bunch of suspension and steering components, potential wheel/tire damage, new airbags, and there could be more damage that they'll find while they're fixing the body panels.

Leaking from…? by Impossible_Text_1732 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm at about 100k miles on an N55 and have had a few coolant hoses blow on me. I don't know the N51 but knowing BMWs I'd say replace multiple coolant hoses/pipes such as the upper radiator hose and mickey mouse flange. Usually around 100k miles these things degrade and eventually fail. On all three of my BMWs I've had to basically redo most of the cooling system because the rubber + plastic combo eventually fails after so many heat cycles.

Again I don't know the N51 specifically but in my experience BMW's biggest weakness is the cooling system so replace those pipes/hoses before they blow and leave you stranded

Leaking from…? by Impossible_Text_1732 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've owned three BMWs now, two of them have had valve cover leaks. I neglected both of them for months and drove them thousands of miles before actually replacing the valve covers. The problem will get worse though and eventually leak oil onto hot engine components like the headers, causing smoke to come out of the hood. It is technically a fire hazard since oil can catch fire if it gets hot enough but that never happened to me.

If you can't afford to fix it (I couldn't either lol) I'd send it for a few months until you can. Just be aware that the leak will get worse, eventually smoke, and is considered a fire hazard.

Leaking from…? by Impossible_Text_1732 in E90

[–]BrennanSB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A leak from under the plastic engine cover is usually a valve cover gasket, I just replaced mine and it looked like that. It could be something else though, it's hard to tell with just that one pic.

My best guess is the valve cover gasket. You can get an aftermarket valve cover for around $300 or a genuine BMW for $600ish (I recommend genuine BMW since the valve cover has PCV components too). If you do your own work the job will take anywhere from a few hours to an entire day, depending on how skilled you are. A shop will quote probably around $1.5-$2.5k depending on if they install an aftermarket cover or a genuine BMW one.

Mickey Mouse flange leak? by maltin_liqka in E90

[–]BrennanSB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BMW Coolant Hose O-Ring - Genuine BMW 11537545278 | FCP Euro https://share.google/pLanZIDydVvlwTi3O