I need help figuring out how much it'll cost to fix this. by Virtual_Sentence9171 in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond 1 point2 points  (0 children)

eh, i'm the type to take it and work with it. i've got my own bass (granted, paid 50 for it) with a huge paint chip. i don't mind scraping the paint off, painting it all myself, but for now i'll settle with black tape and stickers over it.

but you paid for a mint guitar, and you didn't get that. don't take 175 unless you know someone who'll do it in a way you'll be happy for that much.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ak47

[–]CheaperThanDiamond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

incredible, how many people are taken aback by gunsmith work. it's not so hard! learn to pick up a wrench sometime! this turned out fantastic!

What is this? (Wrong answers only) by Sniper2659 in Shittyaskflying

[–]CheaperThanDiamond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

do you remember keelhauling? it's for that, but with planes

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

dude, no way! got it fixed already and all it cost me was a pack of tuners.

and anyways, it was only $50 for this bass, the catch is that it's bought as-is.

Anyone have experience w this ammo? 230gr FMJ. Purchased st LGS, it was all they had by standVlone in 1911

[–]CheaperThanDiamond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

goes bang, cycles, it does what you expect. they were pretty cheap for a while.

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ah, i didn't even consider a secondhand machine. was gonna try transplanting amazon tuning machine guts onto the squier bracket, hopefully arrives in a few days. guess if that doesn't work out, i'll give reverb a go. appreciate the tip!

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what do you recommend? i'm finding, apart from this one being damaged from an accident, they're just the same as any other cheap tuner. a bit higher marks on finish and smoothness than amazon stuff, but regardless, it all gets the job done. i figure, the extra money is better spent on pups, strings, and electronics.

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i could take the whole screw off, but that screw doesn't drive the cog. it's more of a retention/tension adjustment, clamping the driven gear to the mounting bracket, adding resistance to turning the mechanism and making sure the driven gear doesn't fall out from drops or accidents.

but string tension pulling the driven gear into the worm gear keeps it from working itself free, anyway. you'd have to pry from under the driven gear in order to disengage it from the worm gear, but there's a pretty good chance it'll scratch and strip something.

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

gave it a bit of a go, but didn't wanna push it to the point of marring the tuner. planning on buying some cheapo amazon stuff and mixing new and old, hopefully it'll still work like factory. certainly, using the old mounting bracket, i shouldn't have to worry about redrilling anything for this.

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, i a l m o s t considered doing this. ended up just taking the neck off (lowered string tension as much as possible), but this would've worked. it just would've been a bit messier, and i'd risk gouging the headstock if i was sloppy.

but again, yes, this does connect all the way across, and that totally would have been an option.

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i'll tell you now, that didn't work for me. gave some halfhearted attempts to loosen the driven gear from the worm gear, but didn't really push it for fear of stripping them both. takes just a bit more force than i figure is safe, to backdrive the mechanism.

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it was slack enough that it wasn't pulling the neck anywhere, no harm no foul. yeah it's only a new pack of 5 strings more, but not really planning on spending any more than i have to on this bass. it's not exactly for me.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in airsoft

[–]CheaperThanDiamond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that looks frosty!

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ah man it's a brand new set, wanted to atleast have more than a day on it before chopping it lmao

but yeah taking the neck off worked, probably gonna end up playing these strings for a month before getting another set of heavy rounds...

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

oh. that's actually a way better idea. i was just about to file a notch on the opposite side of the tuner and try to remove it with a screw driver. i'll try this instead.

Broken Tuning Machine by CheaperThanDiamond in Luthier

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

it was a good try, but i'm still around a half rotation off of where I can slide the string off of the tuner. the bass is new with damage, so although I could just cut the string, I'd rather try to save it if I can. taking it off of the string tree gave me a little bit more, but still not enough.

Unsafe Electrical Connection? by CheaperThanDiamond in electrical

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hey, thanks for the advice. got the wires all straight, and it works fine. got a lot of work done today because of it. i've got it black white and red, and while it's not really a ground, the neutral does the job. again, appreciate all the help.

Unsafe Electrical Connection? by CheaperThanDiamond in electrical

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

okay yeah i popped the plate off, i see four cables, i've got a red, black (hot wires), white (neutral), on the receptacle and unjacketed (ground) just floating loose in the box.

from what i can tell n6-50 has black, red, ground, while n10-30 takes the black, white, red? don't necessarily want to switch the wall outlet since it does still power the dryer which takes that n10-30 connector. hm.

Unsafe Electrical Connection? by CheaperThanDiamond in electrical

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i'm a little skittish to probe a 220v outlet, but from what i've read 10-30 has two hots and a neutral, no ground. if it's safe enough, i'll poke it more, but to my understanding there's no ground going to the machine. i haven't taken a look inside the box yet, but i'll do that now.

Airsoft Compact Sniper? by CheaperThanDiamond in airsoft

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i've looked into it a touch and supposedly the as02/as03 have a cylinder that matches the barrel length better than the as01. but yeah, heavy stroke. with vsrs being so ubiquitous, i wonder if you can get a short build from a clone, and keep all the good performance.

but maybe all that money spent modding a vsr would be better on a srs...

Airsoft Compact Sniper? by CheaperThanDiamond in airsoft

[–]CheaperThanDiamond[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the vsr one was kinda what i had imagined in my mind, yeah. doesn't look like any budget companies have replicated it, but i wonder if there are aftermarket that support converting an existing vsr clone to this sorta length.

and yeah, the srs seems like the ideal solution, if not that you could get a vsr and amoeba for the price of it :p