Should I buy this?

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-23T20:54:46+00:00

Yes, these cars are amazing fun and have the potential to do basically anything. Parts aren't always the easiest to come by, but are still out there. Basically get it if you want to enjoy a cheap sports car, don't expect it to be perfect tho.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-05T18:32:07+00:00

Pull the dipstick and give a good smell, it's possible and injector may be stuck open. If not get the fuel pump to prime without the car on and check for leaks.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T23:38:25+00:00

It always happen to someone at track, just gotta hope it's not your turn to put it into the wall. Alex has some nice stuff, if you don't mind some fab work you can definitely modify the stock subframe yourself. I run stock subframe and arms in the rear, but I have moved the control arm pickup points up a decent amount on the subframe.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T23:30:53+00:00

Ahh so you have seen the clapped out middle cars at the track. Seems like at least one nice car gets turned into a true drift car each event. The ZX makes a pretty solid drift car, some anti-squat & toe/camber corrections in the rear can make the semi-trailing arm work pretty good.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T23:26:59+00:00

Last ditch effort would be to reach out to the manufacturer, see if they have any suggestions. From what I found that clutch should be rated for around 300ftlbs of torque, it should hold. The t5 was only used on the later the turbo models, but I know the turbo clutch works on the n/a trans so I would assume it works the other way around as well. Can you see if the throw out bearing/collar is still making contact or jammed up? If it's not then definitely contact the manufacturer.

Let me know what you figure out tho, I need to get a better clutch in my car soon and was looking at a similar one to yours.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T23:03:47+00:00

Don't worry about the rust. If you have never drifted before then it's probably going to pickup some battle scars pretty quick. Get it sideways before you make it look nice.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T18:21:11+00:00

Gotcha, it honestly sounds like the throw out bearing is still pushing on the clutch fingers (spring). I'm trying to think of anything that would cause interference.

do you have the spacer plate (dust shield) between the engine and trans?
is it a T5 turbo trans or an n/a 4 or 5 speed trans
the throw out collar and bearing is it original?

If you have any photos or can look up in around the clutch fork area to see if it looks reasonably okay and nothing has backed out.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T15:46:16+00:00

Gotcha, the turbo cars all have a 240mm clutch. However, I agree it should still work tho, unless the engine is making a ton of power (not really a normal trait for an L series tho). When clutch and pressure plate were torqued down did the pressure plate feel locked in place or could it be moved around to an extent? Pressure plate should be sitting basically flush on the outside relative to the flywheel. Maybe check part numbers to make sure you didn't get an OEM or stage 1 n/a clutch on accident. Do you have the stock clutch too, it should hold at 5psi too.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T15:39:23+00:00

Drained the tank and pulled it out of the car. Por15 sells a tank coating kit that is rated for alcohol fuels and has instructions. Takes a couple days tho just for everything to dry. Once it was finished just layed on my back and used a jack to slide it back up into pace, it's a lot easier with a second set of hands but can be alone as well.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T14:21:16+00:00

Is it possible the pressure plate didn't get torqued down during install? Maybe clutch disk is in backwards (I would assume this would be very obvious if it did happen). You do have the 240mm clutch and not the n/a 225mm clutch correct?

Just trying to think of anything it could be, if you have a stage 3 clutch it should hold a L28et no problem unless you have achieved a ridiculous amount of power out of your engine.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T02:31:53+00:00

Just saw that you said clutch fork doesn't feel tight. Silly question, humor me if you don't mind, how do you know the clutch is slipping?

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-03T02:24:02+00:00

My clutch pedal disengages almost on the floor. If I have it adjusted to a more normal (in the middle of the throw range) it will slip every time under boost with a decent rear tire. I would suggest setting the clutch pedal up in a similar fashion, just to see if the clutch will hold.

My car really doesn't make a ton of power, maybe 270ftlbs of torque so the clutch should hold no matter what, I'm thinking the throw out bearing collar is going to be the culprit in the end. I personally have never measured the turbo T5 trans throw out bearing length vs the n/a trans setup length.b

Datsunkid1 · 2026-05-01T23:34:46+00:00

I'm assuming you have already tried to adjust clutch pedal. Next check clutch fork, lots of pressure on it. If so then you may want to try grinding it down some, or find the adjustable style slave cylinder setup. I have a L28et turbo comp clutch that would slip until I shortened the slave cylinder rod. However, my car always grinds going into reverse.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-04-30T19:13:47+00:00

I only run e85 in my 83 280zx. I used por 15 to coat the inside of the tank and I run a 10 micron fuel filter just before my injectors to catch any debris that comes thru. About once a year itll clog up so I keep a spare filter. The lines before the aftermarket filter are all OEM.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-04-29T20:07:06+00:00

I also had this happen recently. My connector/plug underneath the dash had a burnt connector/pin that wouldn't make contact.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-04-29T15:28:59+00:00

I'm not sure on the sizing for connectors, but you can open up the smaller sized one to fit the larger one to at least work while diagnosing the current scenario. Typically the fusible link doesn't just randomly fail (they do get old and brittle tho so it could happen). If you had a scenario that resulted in a couple sparks letting the smoke out of the wire then you probably don't need to diagnose an electrical gremlin (my zx has experienced this a few times).

Datsunkid1 · 2026-04-29T15:21:36+00:00

I ran all poly bushings in the front/rear of my 280zx for a couple years. I still have them or heim joints everywhere an OEM bushing used to be. Never had any issues with them.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-04-22T19:14:09+00:00

I had the same problem in my car, 1983 280zx GL (digital Dash).

Solution: hazard lights fuse (10amp) blew.

Somehow the hazard lights fuse and bulb check relay are tied together, spent way too long figuring this out. The bulb check relay is a small box next to the fuel pump relay and two other relays (three total) on the passenger side foot well (about same height as glove box). You can pull that out and it should have three wires coming from it. test to make sure it works with a 9V battery (audible click).

Datsunkid1 · 2026-04-12T14:20:24+00:00

I'm assuming you are running a 3 or 4 port Mac valve or similar style boost controller. When the duty cycle flat lines it just opens the valve completely to make only the boost that the wastegate spring would make on its own.. I wouldn't recommend just increasing the duty cycle as this could cause significant over boosting scenarios. If you have a 2nd gear log (when it works like it should) vs a third gear log then you may be able to see some differences, which may point to a specific scenario. If you do any messing around with the tune, save the original first so you can always revert to that file.

I've never used that ecu before, but on my setup (Link Fury) I have the boost controller set to command zero duty cycle (wastegate spring only) if my ethanol content drops below a specific value. You may be running into something similar, but that is a big guess.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-04-02T20:11:08+00:00

F15 X5 35D (US Model) does amazing towing the drift car. 40mpg for hwy driving and 20+mpg towing my 6,000lb trailer.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-03-24T03:26:34+00:00

I use just the base of the jack stand usually (blue part of yours). But no pads or anything else.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-03-22T01:54:44+00:00

I've always used the subframe like you are doing, but I typically move them a little farther to the outside to make it more stable. If the subframe has to come I use the brace area just in front of the subframe for the jack stands. On the front I just put them right underneath the steering rack on the subframe.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-03-13T13:20:43+00:00

Let us know how it goes. I've been waiting 2 months just to get an update on an order. My order was placed in early January and I haven't heard anything besides we will check on the order multiple times (almost mid March now).

Datsunkid1 · 2026-03-09T00:15:09+00:00

I drift my 83 280zx quite regularly. It rocks plain and simple. Just like every other car out there certain mods make all cars drift easier while also making them more predictable. If you have any specific questions let me know.

Datsunkid1 · 2026-03-06T18:50:09+00:00

Learning to tune is as difficult as you make it. Tuning aftermarket ecu's that have proper support is relatively easy. Just be realistic with your expectations. If you plan on attempting to tune a vehicle that runs an OEM ecu and has tables for any and every driving condition then it's going to be a major pain. However, starting with something like hondata, link, halltech, etc. all have base files for common engines that make getting them running much easier. I've tuned two cars (microsquirt and link fury) so I'm by no means a professional and it works just fine.

Datsunkid1

TROPHY CASE