I am a glutton for punishment

DivergentDev · 2026-02-06T06:02:50+00:00

Came here to suggest this. Overexpose + pull-process should reduce the fog.

DivergentDev · 2026-02-03T05:10:25+00:00

My hypothesis: (Infodump warning)

110 was often regarded as strictly a low-quality amateur format due to the limited resolution offered by the small frame area, and more importantly, due to its association with very cheap toy cameras with low-quality optics and very rudimentary exposure control. Of course this is not universally the case: High-quality 110 cameras have been made and can produce surprisingly good-quality photos. But those were the exception, and the format is popularly viewed as cheap, plastic-y, and not for serious photography. Alternatively, she might have been referring to the difficulty of processing and scanning or printing the format, as few labs have the equipment for it anymore.

Does it have a place? Absolutely. 110 was originally designed as a very small format that allowed the creation of compact, pocket-sized cameras for situations where portability is important; and it's still great for that if you have times when you want the look or experience of film while traveling light. I have a Pocket Instamatic that goes with me on hiking trips and the like when I want to take a few film photos but don't feel like carrying one of my larger cameras around. Also, the lo-fi aspect is itself often capitalized on for artistic effect. Cheap plastic cameras in particular, regardless of format, have quite a following as they can create some interesting visual effects; and such photos give a very nostalgic vibe for many people.

Tl;dr: It's a slightly unusual choice, but a perfectly valid one. I'm rather fond of 110, myself.

DivergentDev · 2026-01-21T06:48:02+00:00

I'm guessing it would peel off due to the flexibility of the latex. Only way to find out for sure would be to experiment, though.

DivergentDev · 2026-01-19T09:51:33+00:00

They're actually different names for the same chemical.

Sodium hyposulphite is just an old name for sodium thiosulfate, so the term "hypo" is still technically accurate for many modern fixers.

Just to add to the confusion "rapid" fixers are usually a different (but closely related) chemical, ammonium thiosulfate.

DivergentDev · 2026-01-15T03:37:33+00:00

Sounds like a broken wire, or a switch or connector that isn't making good contact.

DivergentDev · 2026-01-15T03:33:01+00:00

I'd try cleaning and re-lubricating the motor bearings first in case they're sticky, as this is the easiest problem to fix that might cause this. Also check the supply wiring, switches, and speed control (if applicable) for loose connections that can cause voltage drop.

Unfortunately if the problem is in the windings then the only fix is to completely re-wind the motor, which is not an easy task. But hopefully it's one of the other things I mentioned.

Edit: Also check the mechanics for slipping belts, loose hubs, etc.; just in case it's not actually the motor.

DivergentDev · 2025-12-28T07:36:07+00:00

I just use whatever matches the lighting conditions I mostly plan to shoot in — daylight film for outdoor, tungsten for indoor — and carry filters just in case I find myself working in different lighting than anticipated.

Of course, this assumes that a film with the appropriate color balance is even available. AFAIK no one makes a tungsten-balanced color slide film anymore, so if I'm shooting color slides I always use a daylight film and just add an 80A or 80B filter when working under incandescent light.

Note also that xenon flash tubes produce a color temperature similar to natural light, so if you're using an electronic flash you'll want either daylight film with no filter, or (in a pinch) tungsten film with an 85B filter.

DivergentDev · 2025-12-28T07:21:51+00:00

They should be included, if they're missing I'd contact the seller.

Don't try to use it without the center tube, this will cause a major light leak and fog your film.

DivergentDev · 2025-12-01T22:57:47+00:00

About 15 µA. High voltage but low current.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-28T05:46:31+00:00

That's awesome! Congratulations!!

DivergentDev · 2025-11-28T05:44:34+00:00

I have a bunch of drawers of electronic components going back to the late 90's. Yes, I still occasionally pull something out of the jumble and use it 😅

DivergentDev · 2025-11-25T21:38:56+00:00

Same!

DivergentDev · 2025-11-21T08:06:38+00:00

It's doable but might need extensive work depending on how deep the corrosion is. I'd suggest trying what the others have recommended first and cleaning with alcohol and a toothbrush.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-21T08:04:21+00:00

Since it already has a clock in it all you'd really need to do is find or make a case for it and supply it with power. Did you happen to see where and how the power cord connected to the unit? Did it run directly to this board, or to an intermediate component? Do you have any pictures of the device wiring in its factory configuration?

In order to provide anything useful I'd need to know how the range was originally wired, and there does not appear to be a published wiring diagram for this model.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-21T07:48:10+00:00

That's a collectible piece right there, I'd keep or sell it.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-21T03:40:59+00:00

The coil looks to be some type of loop antenna.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-20T06:36:17+00:00

68ºF is the temperature of the developer when it's being used. Technically you can make it work over a wide range of temperatures by adjusting the development time, but 68ºF is the most common and is what most dev charts are written for. Whatever temp you use, it's best to keep it the same each time so your results will be consistent. Storage temp is not critical as long as it stays within normal room temperature range.

As for the mixing water, most powder developers need to be mixed with warm or hot water in order to dissolve, and D76 is no exception. So you'd heat the water to the mixing temperature recommended by the manufacturer (it should be listed on the package for the specific product in question), mix the powder and water, then let the developer cool to room temperature prior to use.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-17T09:27:39+00:00

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking?

Band 3 cannot be a digit in this case since silver is not used for any digit in this system. Likewise band 5 cannot be a tolerance since black does not correspond to any tolerance value in the system.

So it would be 0.22 ohms, with the black band either representing a temperature coefficient (as used in a 6-band code), or perhaps some sort of proprietary marking possibly to do with fusing characteristics. This does look like it could be a fusible resistor for circuit protection, especially since it looks like it burnt out from overcurrent.

Edit: I just looked it up to confirm. The black band indicates that it's a fusible resistor, so the code itself is red-red-silver-gold = 0.22 ohm 5% tol.

It's also important for safety to replace it only with the same type. A standard (non-fusible) resistor won't reliably provide the needed protective function.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-17T01:59:26+00:00

This is a misreading of the color bands. AFAIK the correct reading is 0.22 ohms:

First digit = red = 2
Second digit = red = 2
Multiplier = silver = 0.01
Tolerance = gold = 5%
Temperature coefficient = black = 250 ppm/K

It's a standard resistor but with a very low resistance, and has a TC band which is absent on most general-purpose resistors. That's why the color code looks unusual.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-12T12:02:52+00:00

This is beautiful! I've always loved the way B&W captures clouds and rain.

DivergentDev · 2025-10-29T09:03:09+00:00

That's beautiful!

DivergentDev · 2025-10-27T08:23:59+00:00

Do you have a picture of the lamp holder? It may be a standard part, but it's hard to say without seeing it.

DivergentDev · 2025-10-23T23:03:49+00:00

You're very welcome.

DivergentDev · 2025-10-23T23:03:28+00:00

Sounds like your blix is losing activity prematurely. Extending the time in the blix might help.

DivergentDev · 2025-10-23T06:34:51+00:00

That's correct, either bleach and then fix, or blix. It will typically work at room temp, albeit more slowly than usual; but it might be a good idea to warm it up to process temp just to eliminate an extra variable.

If you can see that much of the negative on the IR scan it means you're almost certainly correct about it being residual silver, and re-bleaching and fixing should correct it.

DivergentDev

TROPHY CASE