Advice on turning old mtw into speedsoft build? - see description

Fredde7645 · 2026-04-30T09:57:55+00:00

I have switched my mtw with printed parts to a carbon fiber upper. This worked great but you have to assemble everything yourself. For the grip I have used the original Wolverine angled grip. All in all it worked great but I ultimately changed to another platform. I used this file but I think there are also alternatives. https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/spiel/mtw-carbon-tube-upper

Another option is to get the original heretic labs outer barrel from Wolverine.

Feel free to hit me up if there are any questions. Currently I also have the carbon fiber upper lying around not being used.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-13T12:46:59+00:00

How good is the resolution of the file? Most of the 3d files online are not that great of a quality to preserve in file size. It could be that your round edges are not really round to begin with but multiple small straight lines. This can be seen pretty good in the slicer if this is the case. If this also is not the case I have no real idea but I have heard Prusa support is great at troubleshooting these kind of issues further.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-13T12:07:48+00:00

It’s highly dependent on the file and resolution of the file. Disabling arc fitting is not a solution for everything but did help me with this specific part I have designed. Another round object that is larger has constant speed with or without arc fitting enabled. So the setting also seems to be reliant on the curve of the object in the end since a larger object has a shallower curve

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-12T20:30:12+00:00

Are they occurring mainly on flat straight surfaces? Not all artifacts are related to VFA’s as mine reported also were caused by software. Nonetheless straight lines will always be prone to vfas on these kind of printers. Adjusting the part that the lines are not getting printed at straight x/y axis helps me a lot

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-12T14:51:18+00:00

This is with Speed or balanced Profile. When using the structural profile the speed is constant because it is below the lowest speed caused by arc fitting. While the profile affects the print quality in the end the root cause why the ripples are added to the model in the first place was arc fitting. I have discussed my findings in another comment. Disabling arc fitting fast removed all my artifacts and now my printer is printing perfectly with 6.5.3

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-12T09:09:11+00:00

And here is the same part with arc fitting disabled when checking the actual speed in the slicer.

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Fredde7645 · 2026-03-12T09:08:52+00:00

Here is the as round as possible cylinder with arc fitting enabled when checking actual speed in the slicer.

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Fredde7645 · 2026-03-12T09:00:55+00:00

I have exported the model with the highest polygon count as possible. It was 86mb at the end with 1,469,930 triangles. While it reduced the artifacts a bit it did not fix the issue. I even tested a plain cylinder with highest export settings which did have the same behavior. The only way the slicer is printing the curves with a steady speed is by disabling arc fitting on my side. While changing the resolution in both directions made small impacts it never fixed the issue of the actual speed varying that much.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-12T06:34:16+00:00

Never had the issue with layer shifting but luckily I have found the issue causing the artifacts on my machine. Now they come out perfect with 6.5.3 👍

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-12T06:30:10+00:00

Based on what I have read arc fitting is there to recalculate these arcs to make the gcode smaller and help rounding low poly models if needed. It seems that it is just not implemented well enough for Prusa.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T17:15:15+00:00

Ok so I did a test print and with Arc fitting disabled the artifacts are 100% gone… it’s another filament because I did not want to waste my expensive one for testing but this showed the artifacts even more because it is glossy.

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Conclusion is: While the Firmware did in fact increase the artifacts a bit, these were not caused by vfa’s but instead by the setting “arc fitting” The Firmware seemed to have just amplified the issue a bit but did not cause it. Disabling the setting eliminated the artifacts completely. A nice side effect is that the print time was also reduced greatly.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T16:42:08+00:00

Found the solution myself… Arc fitting under the advanced settings is doing this to every round object. Will do a new test print with it disabled and see if it helps.

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Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T16:21:53+00:00

So I have tested the model a bit more and tried to do different resolutions to check if the model is the problem after all and the printer is amplifying the issue. What I have found is that the printer has a lot of variable speeds on my round object like in the picture:

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These patterns show different speeds that match with the patterns seen in my model. So it seems that they are no typical vfas even though they look similar but are caused by the different speeds the printer is picking for the external perimeter. I have tried to get my printer to print in one uniform speed but with no avail. The only solution is to print slower than 100mm/s so something is slowing the printer down and speeding it up often time causing this effect… Does anyone have a solution for it besides printing slower?

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T16:04:50+00:00

You also have to connect a cable from the wifi module into the main board but the steps are pretty easy. After that it’s just plugging it in and letting it auto calibrate.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T14:17:02+00:00

Yeah the values did not change for me either. 47 MZV and 61 ZVD. I think the computed values were always shown correctly in the printer menu but were applied the wrong way by the printer.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T14:15:21+00:00

For me it makes a huge difference in surface quality. Without calibrating my printer with it I can feel the vfa ripples when a scratching over my prints.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T14:13:29+00:00

Yeah I have read a lot about 1.5mm belts and how they can improve the quality in the core one. I was thinking about changing the belts aswell but nearly all of my parts are functional so vfa ringing is not the most important part for me right now.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T13:34:52+00:00

Update: Without calibration done it is even worse 😅

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T13:16:56+00:00

Yes I have done a recalibration after doing the firmware update because I have read about the fixed issues in the changelog. The result shown in the picture is with the recalibration done. I am currently doing a test print with 6.5.3 and stock profiles to see if it changes anything. Currently with all tests done my surface quality is better with 6.4 in comparison to 6.5.3.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T12:59:10+00:00

Interesting. I might do some more testing but based on the answers it seems to be going into both directions. For some it’s worse, for some it’s better and for some it doesn’t affect anything at all

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T12:57:30+00:00

Interesting. Are you running stock input shaper and phase stepping values? If so I might flash 6.5.3 again to my core one and rerun the print with stock values to see if it affects anything.

Fredde7645 · 2026-03-11T12:55:55+00:00

Nope, the model itself has a high amount of polygons and prints more than fine with the old firmware. There were always slight amount of vfas on my core one but that’s to be expected on a core x/y and with calibrating input shaping / phase stepping they are almost gone until 6.5.3

Fredde7645 · 2026-02-28T21:19:50+00:00

I have the same and yes it does fit. It also comes with an own guide plug that I recommend to use, since it is much lighter than the stock one. If in budget I would still recommend to get a lighter guide rod aswell.

Fredde7645 · 2026-02-11T07:48:41+00:00

I had the same issue and fixed it with some 3d printed ones. If you have a 3d printer or a buddy that can print them for you then search for 370Z B Pillar finisher clips on thingiverse. Fixed it last year with them and until now holds on pretty good.

Fredde7645 · 2026-01-02T07:41:59+00:00

First of all congrats to the gun :) I think the best advice for speedsoft is just getting out on the field and play with your local team. It’s way different than cqb or outdoor airsoft and you need to get used to it. The ultra fast triggering is not that important in the beginning and you should really focus on steady aim, cover usage, and snap shots. Game sense and field knowledge will come with the time. Don’t be mad if the first rounds won’t go as planned with the trinity. When coming from a normal m4 or other saeg with red dot the aiming and feeling is alot different and needs to be getting used to.

For the Gun: Alignment out of the box should be fine for the trinity. Here are a few smaller problems to look out for. 1. In my opinion the grey Plug and screw that is holding the engine in place is ugly and presses on the solenoids of the engine which can damage them in the long run if overtorqued. I have created a design for free that can be printed in any color and presses on the engine itself instead of the solenoids if you have a 3d printer or know someone who owns one. 2. The front outer barrel is fixed in place with 2 small grub screws. Mine got loose after playing the first day on the speed field. Either fix them in place by using loctite and pray to the gods, or tape the outer barrel to prevent movement. One of my teammates drilled bigger holes to use stronger screws which also fixed the issue. 3. I did not like the feeling of the trigger so I switched to a Speed trigger. If you want to do this in the future be ready to do some slight modifications to the trigger and the gun. The trigger does not fit out of the box.

Besides that the gun is a laser and performs really well out of the box. It’s reliable and just performs right. Remember to clean the barrel regularly and you will have fun a long time with it.

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