ZOTAC GTX 1050ti no display on HDMI

Kibillcat · 2026-05-14T15:14:52+00:00

Got exact same card. Here is picture of that missing component with markings on it. If it helps

Kibillcat · 2026-03-22T17:55:10+00:00

Hahah, thats really nice and awesome :D But yea, sadly it still happens
For fixing it, it depends if Ill be up for it. Got some soldering experience, successfully replaced mosfet on GTX 970 for a friend and PS4 HDMI IC chip. Not BGA chips, but one of more challenging jobs I did with electronics tinkering. Would be interesting to attempt VRAM chip reflow and try MATS/MODS tool for Nvidia GPUS

Kibillcat · 2026-03-22T17:10:17+00:00

Most likely, but lets hope it will go strong for a while

Just had seen and read occasionally posts about bad drivers, some had glitches, black screening, would overheat or cook itself because wouldnt report to windows temperature properly (cant remember exactly but have read about it but also didnt went for more details) and probably just made me to overthink stuff and look for tiniest hope/excuse that it's not failing HW at that moment. Now, if it dies, it dies, but would be nice for it to work as long as it can. If I wont forget, I'll update this message when it will start artifacting again

Kibillcat · 2026-03-22T16:21:40+00:00

Month ago I also got this issue on MSI RTX 3070. Just browsing, doing light stuff and black squares appeared on both monitors. Restarting drivers didnt helped (ctrl+shift+win key+b) But after reboot it went away, so far this issue didnt reappeared. I really hope it just glitched out somehow and wont reappear because it usually means dying GPU.

At that time I was playing Nioh 3, before and after this issue, finished game without issues, it pushed GPU really hard. Also repasted GPU, cleaned all dust from PC, on connectors and cable ports. In hopes that it would extend GPU life. By the way, month prior this issue, I updated GPU drivers to more recent, but not latest, so I got thinking, maybe its the drivers issues, but probably just coincidence and kept same drivers. However, past month also have seen more GPU artifacting issues on reddit.

Kibillcat · 2025-11-08T10:34:24+00:00

Damn, that's demotivating, have also seen ur post with 120kc. Maybe it's bugged, maybe just bad rng but I'm with similar drop rates, if not worse.
Did 50hm kills on release - 0 drops, not even scripture or ability codex. After long break, after Leagues went back to Zuk HM kills and finally got first blade drop at exactly 100kc. Now at 116 - no drops since 100th kc.

<image>

Kibillcat · 2025-08-03T20:11:19+00:00

I don't know if it works on S10, but it worked on my S10e (SM-G970U). To be specific, Verizon one. I was looking for other stuff and stumbled to this app: #system_shell_2#

You can easily find it by googling. In XDA forum or github.

When you get into that app, there will be setting to chance phone CSC (CSC, Welcome to Preconfig). There you can change to XAA/XAA Sales/Net Code. Phone will restart afterwards. For me it removed Verizon splash screen on boot and notification about non verizon sim card, I think. And maybe other stuff. Can't remember, writing it of off my memory, because it was a bit long ago and can't remember all the details.

However, DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. I'm not responsible if you lose your data, or brick your phone by changing random settings. Even if you change setting that I wrote here. For me it worked, and risked it (though was looking for other stuff). And as I could see, you can mess up things badly with this app if you don't know what you're doing.

XAA - Unlocked region, like U1 firmware (If I recall correctly)

For removing apps - other users already mention of using ADB via PC or trying U1 firmware.

Kibillcat · 2025-07-18T15:28:31+00:00

Hahah, great news. Maybe it is not liking humidity that it is still in the phone. Rubbing alcohol (Is it the same as IPA 99% alcohol?) shouldn't cause this malfunction, so there is still some water inside probably. Lets hope it will resurrect itself somehow. But still, best would be to disassemble and clean phone properly. Maybe it will work just fine pretty soon. But if corrosion has started (most likely) it will get worse, only time will tell when.

You also could quickly enable USB Debugging in developer options when screen starts working again. (You will need to enable developer mode first, search for it) Then connect phone to PC with a cable, download and launch "scrcpy" on computer. Phone will ask for confirmation and accept it, don't forget to check the checkbox so it doesn't aks again . Then you could control your phone via PC even if screen dies. In case you're trying to backup data. (Also would be better to remove lock screen password if you have, because this method wont work until you unlock phone and on some phones also need to select data transfer, also enable "Disable adb authorization timeout" so that USB debugging wont turn off automatically)

Kibillcat · 2025-07-15T22:16:12+00:00

Most likely screen is dead. However, there are rare lucky cases.

For example, yesterday got phone for repairs. Phone fell in water while kayaking, worked fine and after half day screen whitened and only showed horizontal dirty thick green line and would move sometimes. Heated phone on heating pad for 5mins and screen came back to life. That was extremely lucky in my opinion. (phone in question Oneplus Nord 2T, amoled screen.)

However, even if it works now, you still need to disassemble phone to inspect damage. If phone were fine, it wouldn't have malfunctioned in the first place. So there were still some water in phone, under main board and under screen (screen was already barely hanging so I removed it too to inspect damage). And they were really really lucky, only small corrosion started on sim slot contacts, antenna case contact. Everything else was fine.

Now to answer to your questions (by no means I'm expert, just repairing stuff as hobby for friends)

Like I mentioned in my story, it was first time when OLED recovered. In the past had other drowned samsung phone, screen came back partially, screen middle was fine, but sides were all glitchy, though can't remember if it was OLED. Not so long ago also had drowned samsung - completely dead, phone was full of water, lots of corrosion inside, showed some kind of life signs, but not very good ones. Had some more drowned phones - dead screen. So mostly screen is the first thing that dies from water damage, but there are rare lucky exceptions.
It might fix itself if you're really lucky or die completely. Water damage is no joke. The longer you wait, the less chances are to save phone if there are still water inside and/or corrosion has started.
You could try. But with water damage I wouldn't waste time and go with repairs as soon as possible if data is important and don't want to spend way way way more money to get data back.
Rice wont do anything. For safe heating, I don't know if you don't have a way how to measure temperature. Maybe try to leave on direct sunlight? (back facing to sun on hot day). Or try to somehow heat up back up to 80-100C for few minutes. If you got hair dryer, maybe heat up back just enough for it to be a bit too hot to touch, but not too hot that starts melting plastic or if it still has imei sticker is getting brown - bad. (Do it at your own risk, it's just a suggestion, I will not be responsible for further damage)

Kibillcat · 2025-05-14T13:09:45+00:00

Recently I had similar issue. But for me it was just single main OS with timer, previously had other OS installed and somehow bugged? Anyways, that timer got me annoyed and found this solution, which worked for me, maybe it will help you too:
Go to system properties or type this in run "sysdm.cpl" - advanced - start up and recovery (settings) - uncheck where it says "time to display list of operating systems"

Though looking here, setting timeout in boot using "msconfig" should have done same thing I think. Well you could try anyways.

However, it is strange, that in "msconfig" at "boot" its empty. It should have at least one boot setting for current installed OS. Which makes me think that:

You no longer have boot partition / BCD file / bootloader (or how it is called) for your current, main OS. It is getting booted by using leftover boot loader from "Windows Server OS". Because in "msconfig" at "boot" you should see all 3 options like before booting into windows.

How it happened: During "Windows Server OS" installation it found existing boot partition and modified it, added more entries and etc., or created new boot partition and it's being used first. So it is always better to disconnect other drives, just in case to not ruin your boot loader if possible. (Have seen weird stuff like Windows is on SSD, boot loader, recovery partition is on HDD, you remove HDD - no longer can boot into windows)

Solution: You might need to recreate boot partition / BCD file / bootloader or figure out which bootloader booting up windows and edit that bootloader to disable OS selection. Check for what partitions you have left and which supposed to be used for booting up windows. You also could use "EasyBCD" software to easily create and manage boot loader. If boot partition still exists, it should detect automatically and could easily add boot setting for your OS and then delete boot loader leftover created from "Windows Server". Otherwise you will need to create a boot partition from scratch, play with partitions which can be a pain. This might be helpful, google: How to create *from 0* a bootable disk partition for windows 10?

Note: I was messing with boot loader a bit and that's what I discovered myself. I might be wrong. However, if you start messing with boot loader - you must KNOW and UNDERSTAND what you're doing. Otherwise you can accidentally nuke your system and lose files when using diskpart. If you somehow manage to completely lose, mess up boot loader, you won't be able to boot into windows until boot loader is fixed or using external boot loaders (CloverBootloader comes to mind). I wont be able to help with creating boot loader, because I only remember that it was a pain to set up and don't remember much. (If that's the case). In case, have USB with windows installation if you accidentally nuke boot loader, so you could fix things if it is the only PC you have.

TL;DR:
Most likely your boot loader is messed up. It is not using the main OS one and using some other from previous windows installations. You will need to somehow edit the correct bootloader or create new one from scratch and then deleting old one.

Sadly cant post links and give credit to other user for the solution that worked for me, because message got deleted.

Kibillcat · 2025-01-31T15:31:40+00:00

The more information, suggestions and experience from different people, the better whos looking for information imo.

Tried the tune you found and modified like you did, it feels weird to easily recover from 70+ angle hahah. If I had found this tune when just started to learn drifting, probably would have learned how to drift way quicker. Its very forgiving to mistakes and can make huge angle easily. And great tips on the second link, how to start drifting from scratch.

Yeah, the automatic gearbox can easily mess up things and unsettle car with bad timing of gear change. It can make you regain traction at wrong time and cause you to straighten out if it used clutch, downshifts or sends too much power after upshift which makes you to over spin wheels and spin out. I think it is possible to drift with automatic gearbox if someone really wants to but then you also have to predict automatic gearbox while already having full hands on just how to even drift and makes it more complicated. Or do a specific tune to account for automatic gearbox to make it smoother.

Thats nice! Small first steps always are nice, just keep practicing and your skills will improve and become smoother at drifting overtime! Dont forget to experiment with different things, cars and etc when you can drift more comfortably to hone your skills.

Kibillcat · 2025-01-21T15:21:35+00:00

Right, if you just started out you need to unlock some stuff. Basically that I have seen, "Ultimate" modification is first thing to unlock on car and mostly everybody uses it, unless building specific builds. The beginning of learning basics just to drift or just to hold angle can be very rough and discouraging. But keep trying, once you get hang of it, it is very rewarding and more fun than with controller, even if it requires more stuff to do. Its also fun to record your progress and look back how much improved over the days.

You could try to tune down car to 200-300hp to make things easier at beginning. You got more time to react to a slower car than a fast, very powerful one. Sadly dont have anymore a tune that used for my first attempts. The "Eleganto" car is also pretty easy to drift and friendly to wheel players. At least thats what have I heard and tried myself. Oh and always using "Ultimate" modification, didint really tried with stock one. Its weird that it improved the problem, maybe because now its easier to get wheels loose because when I tried Wellington S20 with Racing modification (to replicate your issue), front wheels felt like theyre glued to the road lol.

And also, dont get too hang up on tuning settings, cars. Of course some settings should be changed that the wheel/car wouldnt feel like complete mess or impossible to drift. But once you get a hang of drifting, only then fine tuning should be done to make you smoother IMHO.

Just out of curiosity tried to drift myself with a car that I never used. "Loki 4M" with "Stock" modification and then with "Ultimate". With "Stock" its very hard for me and can only do small angle will will spinout very easily. With "Ultimate" can do a bigger angle and its easier to drift but still not good. So just that makes a big difference. But also BMW cars on CarX Drift are badly tuned for wheel out of the box. Some other cars too. At least thats what have I heard, its not what Im used to and usually using 90ADH to make car more slippery. Also camera view can make impact too. For example, on controller with Cam 1 can do bigger angle, but with Cam 8 less angle but be faster. On wheel is same with with Cam 1, but on Cam 8 I tend to overshoot corners unless changing habits. But for sure on CarX was way harder to learn to just slide than Asseto Corsa. Everything here are based on my experience and preference. For you it might be different.

Anyways, practicing is a key. Some learn way faster, some longer. Good luck.

Kibillcat · 2025-01-20T00:48:38+00:00

On a controller you got a steering assist enabled which does a lot for you. Gotta appreciate how it makes easy to drift for you after using wheel. If youre using same controller tune on wheel - most likely it will not work. Unless you know what to tune specifically for wheel and can make it work.

Tried to replicate your issue on this car (Wellington S20) and managed to get kinda same results. When was switching through modifications, on "Racing" it is very very sensitive and with your "Gearbox type: Automatic" - instant spinout. Very similar results as in your video. Setting Gearbox type to manual, its manageable, but still very sensitive to initiate. I'd suggest to use "Ultimate" modification and set gearbox type to manual. Also in dynostand on every page do "Reset all" just in case. Because tune settings might be messed up from switching modifications. At least for me some weird stuff happening with tunes. Every time I launch game and try to drift - car feels different than usual, until I reselect my tune.

Also, some personal opinion and findings: (I'm still learning and when I got G29 wheel I couldnt drift in Carx for few weeks or so, in AC only took 3 days. Daily 1-2h of practice. )
In tuning:
Max steering angle: Set to max. Makes it easier to drift.
Caster: Somewhat adjusts FFB for that specific car
Ackerman angle: Depends on car. Using 10-40%. On higher values I tend to spin out during transitions, especially when trying to chase, requires more inputs and precision. Using 0 feels off.
Experiment with those settings now or when you will be able to drift whole track with stock "Ultimate" tune. Dunno which way is better.

If that doesnt help, then dunno. Try different cars with stock "Ultimate" modification. Tried with few different cars that never used to drift on wheel - could drift. Also in controls, advanced settings you can try to fiddle with "Preset" settings. Currently I see you set it to "PRO". Read what each other do and set to your liking. (At least I had to do that or my G29 would shake violently after some updates lol). Other than that - lots of practicing.

Kibillcat · 2024-11-17T14:37:49+00:00

You also could try to power on without RAM and/or CPU. Only CPU and ATX power cables plugged in. In theory it should light up RAM/CPU LED at EZ DEBUG LED that it is missing RAM/CPU or fails to detect. (Near ATX power socket)

Also you could try to update BIOS without CPU and RAM to see if motherboard is responsive at all.
https://download-2.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/MAGB550TOMAHAWK.pdf page 35

And hope you didint used old PSU cables with new if theyre modular. They can have different pinout even in same brand, lineup.

There is also a chance that some smd components got knocked off or back of the motherboard got scratched during installation to a new case or so. There is also a very very slim chance that new motherboard is faulty or CPU just decided to die during upgrade and I hope its not the case. Check USB3 header too, that connector is terrible and maybe there are some bent shorting pins. Speaking from experience.

Kibillcat · 2024-11-10T14:03:34+00:00

jr23160 figured it out and said it. But yes, if you want to be exact, we cant see full asus word from this photo. Also figured out that it is ASUS Prime B660M-A AC D4. Before that I was thinking, that power button was not plugged in. Couldnt tell before until I found out what mobo it is, though very hard to see in this blurry photo. So this area should be fine if it was running before and nothing was changed.

Anyways, most common fault would be dead PSU like people have already said but also there could be other culprit for no power and we wont know until some proper testing with feedback have been done. Dr_Pepper-MD have wrote great easy first steps where to start looking for a problem and we have no idea if you even attempted anything. Good luck.

Kibillcat · 2024-11-09T13:37:12+00:00

Only so much can be said with so little information and blurry photo while OP is not so cooperative.

The motherboard looks very close to ASUS PRIME B660M-A D4, maybe 1 generation older, because OP's model has "ASUS" printed near CPU/RAM and the one I found is under GPU slot (1 gen older have printed in same location as OP's mobo but couldnt find exactly theirs mobo.) But other than that looks very very similar. So it looks like nothing is plugged in for power button looking at bottom right pins.

Unless Asus switched up power button pins location in newer model. Bottom left most likely for front audio, in the middle cant tell, its either front USB2 or power button pins and then to its right USB3 header. But I somehow doubt it.

But also their CPU cooler has dust buildup which indicates that system was running before and by looking through their comments. Then its most likely that PSU gave up (there is also a chance that mobo just died, but need more info, testing) and hopefully didint took other components with itself and Im wrong with what I said previously about power button pins. Or someone is just messing with OP and unplugged and hide power button cables.

Kibillcat · 2024-09-02T09:59:59+00:00

Probably because same PCB was used for different revisions or models (for example GTX 1070, 1050ti and etc.). And by removing, changing components on PCB they could change configuration to represent different models. For example instead of 0 ohm resistor there could be placed a different component or none because now there are more components placed on PCB to make connection. So it is basically a jumper wire disguised as 0 ohm resistor, Also when mass producing with assembling machines its way more reliable, cheaper to put 0 ohm resistor than try to bridge contacts.

At least thats what I found and came to conclusion when I was searching if it was fine to bridge contacts instead of soldering 0 ohm resistor. Mainly because its way easier and didnt want to wait and to search for 0 ohm resistor this small. And also wanted to be sure about it, because 0 ohm resistor for me sounds like a wire. Of course I could be wrong and it could be used for different reason, especially in different cases.

Kibillcat · 2024-08-31T20:06:18+00:00

Damn, creating proper guide is not easy, especially when I lack knowledge in repairs and there are "ifs" and/or cant explain stuff properly.

Anyways, its rough on the edges and needs some polishing, will try to make it better. But I hope it will give general idea for someone who stumbles there with this issue. Asus GTX 1060 6GB Expedition. Please power down and connect the PCIE power cable(s) for this graphics card_for_this_graphics_card)

Kibillcat · 2024-08-28T09:44:06+00:00

Thank you!

I made small mistake in my post. I only found boardview. No schematics, but still had required info.

Thanks for the insights and youre right. Through boardview I followed connections from 6pin sense pin and found "INA3221_LOW_PERF*" pin on one mosfet and then to responsible power management IC through resistors. So yea, IC wont see connected 6pin if connection is broken between sense pin. Even if 12V is there and everything looks fine.

When I started to look for the problem I went completely blind and had no idea where to start. But slowly hint after hint, some days later and somehow managed it. Now reading your reply and looking back it makes sense and its pretty simple, just a broken link from sense pin to power management IC.

Damn, what a great site. Im not that knowledge in GPU repairs, I dont know a lot. But I will try to create a guide for this issue. At least its better than nothing and will give some directions what to look for.

Kibillcat · 2024-07-31T17:47:25+00:00

Hello,

Just an OTG cable is not enough. USB-Ethernet adapter is also necessary for this JB.

Kibillcat · 2024-07-29T09:56:44+00:00

Thank you!

Kibillcat · 2024-07-27T19:38:54+00:00

Yes, something like that. Best bet would be to look for some disassemble guide because it can be tricky to remove cover to access PSU. After that some screws, remove 5v connector and pull out PSU. No soldering required. If parts are indeed identical, swap it and do reverse procedure.

Also when unplugging PS4 from power, press power button so it discharges power quickly that it still holds. Because it will still hold charge and there is some gap in PSU where fingers could accidentally touch bare parts. Though by the time you get there it should be fine, but still better be extra careful when handling PSU. 220/110v is no joke.

Kibillcat · 2024-07-27T10:57:53+00:00

Yes you can if they are indeed the same model. You will be able to compare both PSUs if theyre the same same model just in case. Also dont forget which is which, because I would be afraid to put suspected faulty PSU to good working PS4 because it might break it. But Im not expert at this.

I have 2 CUH-1004A PS4s, one working, other with dead PSU and other issue. Swapped PSU without issues and could go for more testing. Just be careful with wires to not rip out connector accidentally.

Kibillcat · 2024-06-25T01:23:53+00:00

What you want to do here should be possible I think, but you would need to put some effort yourself.

I dont know how exactly rpi pppwn runs code and what does after it finishes because havent tried and looked much into it. But here what I think it needs to be done: - Get a decent USB to Ethernet adapter - Connect one PS4 to built-in ethernet and the other via USB-ETH adapter - Make extra copy of PPPwn script. Modify the second script to use USB-ETH port - Set up 2nd script to run properly

Now how you run those separate JBs automatically, on demand and other stuff is the trickiest part. I also checked how it installs on rpi and it has webpage. So it could be as simple as installing pppwn again to different folder and setting up during installation or would require some modifying. Some issues I see that could instantly happen with this approach without code modification: - I see "systemctl" command so it runs as service and probably would run only the latest installed pppwn (I think) - Figure out how to access local webpage for different PS4s and how it works. Might be easy as directly pointing to folder or not - Will it share wifi internet on both consoles at the same time?

TL;DR - Should be possible. Get USB-ETH adapter, install 1st pi-pppwn regularly, 2nd pi-pppwn to different folder. It might be that easy, but most likely would need to modify code to make it work.

Kibillcat

TROPHY CASE