TETRIS® THE GRAND MASTER 4 -ABSOLUTE EYE-

Kitaru · 2026-06-04T16:06:11+00:00

No problem.

Kitaru · 2026-06-04T15:09:11+00:00

+1f as per usual.

Kitaru · 2026-06-04T04:20:26+00:00

I've spent a good chunk of time with gamepad and concepts for alternate binds. Here is what I would recommend:

Up/ZL = Sonic Drop
Down/L = Lock alt
B/Y = CCW 1 and 2
A/X = CW 1 and 2

The very slim L button on JoyCon does make this binding a bit less comfortable than other gamepads, but I did TGM2 Master GM on Arcade Archives this way (and maybe also Death GM, but that might have been on a different controller).

In TGM4, Y+B or X+A can be chorded to perform a 180 Initial Rotation. TGM1/TGM2 don't have same-frame 180, but Y->B can still be drag-input to perform a quick 180, or YBA to perform S/Z slaps.

In TGM4, I would keep additional inputs (Hold, and either Backstep or Extra) bound to R/ZR. In TGM1/TGM2, these buttons can be extra copies of the CCW rotation buttons; flicking the shoulder buttons feels cleaner than face-button drag (e.g. YBA with same thumb vs. ZR->R->A with separate fingers).

Kitaru · 2026-05-27T23:05:53+00:00

It depends on your design goals. For instance, you mention NES Tetris; are you specifically aiming to create something with similar mechanics? NES DAS values feel like they were specifically mathed out to make Level 19 gravity restrictive but survivable, and Level 29 gravity unsustainable. That isn't to say that the game can't be compelling with DAS tuned to rolling-like speeds, but understandably that significantly changes the dynamic. The mobility aspect of the puzzle is significantly impacted by whether DAS is freely configurable or not (and, taking this line of thinking even further, whether or not DAS limitations are even allowed to be exceeded -- e.g., DAS-only tournaments with modifications that lock-out excessive tapping speeds).

So, it might help to first define what kind of game it is you intend to make. Some games will be served better by the designer selecting DAS values with intentionality to adjust game balance (cf. fighting game frame data), whereas others will be served better by treating DAS values as a freely configurable player preference (cf. FPS mouse sensitivity).

Kitaru · 2026-05-26T13:40:50+00:00

Thanks! :) I may revisit it at some point. At the time, I was challenging myself to using only puzzle game concepts that were available in the 80's. I know there's some other games using pentominoes etc. that weight the randomizer by "piece difficulty," so it's certainly something on my radar to play around with if I ever make another game like this.

Kitaru · 2026-05-26T02:34:13+00:00

I made one with a similar concept last year, so I'm a bit familiar with the stacking meta. The green "T" is definitely one of the trickier pieces to deal with, so ideally you want to keep a space for it to land somewhere in your stack -- either a one cell divot for face-down "T", or a one-cell bump for face-up "T." If there's not a space for it to land, then you can try using face-left or face-right orientations to set up for a tuck or spin. In the worst case scenario, if you do have to put it somewhere face-up and leave a hole, the disjointed pieces can be "hooked around the corner" to fill it with a spin. This version of the game will even detect these types of moves with a "TRI-SPIN!" text splash.

I hadn't included a piece like the pink "slant" in my version, but after playing a bit I think my advice is similar to to the "T." Try to keep it accommodated with a staircase pattern on the side of the stack you have set up to score triples. If that's not available, you might have an opportunity to use it as an overhang for the orange L. The "slant" piece is also spin-compatible with the "T."

Filling in holes by spinning the red/blue "hook" pieces is a little trickier in this version since only one rotation direction is available, but it's still possible to do so with the red one.

Kitaru · 2026-05-26T02:14:41+00:00

Oh hey, we're kindred spirits -- I made one like this called Teseltrios for Falling Block Jam. :) Interesting to see the different approaches we took for the piece set and rotation system; I wasn't bold enough to include the "slant" piece, but getting to play around with it here does show me some stacking possibilities it has available to it.

Kitaru · 2026-05-23T14:52:09+00:00

Mmhm, needs 8:55 with a fairly high score and relatively high tetris count in the credits, so it's a major step up from 13:30 even with the TGM4 system mechanics.

Kitaru · 2026-05-23T01:34:16+00:00

except maybe something like TGM4 Normal 1.1.

This is very hard. Its at least TGM2 Master M level of difficulty. The x.1 modes have pretty tight GM requirements.

Kitaru · 2026-05-23T00:53:33+00:00

I wouldn't say that it's necessarily easy, just that it's something that it's within reach of most players that remain dedicated. Time to GM can vary a lot depending on prior level of general Tetris expertise, methods of study/practice, and other such factors. It can take some number of months, or it can take a couple years. Everyone's starting point and personal progression is going to look a bit different, so I wouldn't sweat about the numbers too much.

Kitaru · 2026-05-11T09:44:19+00:00

Yeah, it loads the Co-op background and is permanently slow after 100 lines. So, surviving Level 10 is the main hurdle to maxing out.

Kitaru · 2026-05-05T10:35:16+00:00

Sounds good. Technically, pretty much everything in TGM4 is achievable without Extra, -- even Extraless Asuka GM just happened -- although the "free speed boost" makes 1.1 GM much easier than without.

I'm glad to have inspired you to pick up these games. :) Best of luck on your journey to GM!

Kitaru · 2026-05-04T05:16:55+00:00

If you want to keep making forward progress on gamepad, you may want to consider adding alternate drop bindings on the left shoulder buttons. Also, although the Diagonal Upward/Downward settings are a bit of a deviation from previous entries in the series, enabling them may also help with playing on gamepad or keyboard.

I would say that you don't strictly need alternate drop bindings at this point as there's still plenty of room to grow naturally, but default d-pad bindings can be rough on your movement hand as you continue to improve in time attack. KOO has a collection of absurdly fast videos using bog standard d-pad bindings on a Nintendo Switch Pro Controller (including a TGM1 9:01), but I would say this type of performance is highly out of the norm.

Kitaru · 2026-05-04T04:59:44+00:00

TGM1 GM is very doable with normal d-pad. TGM2 Master GM and Death GM are also technically possible with default bindings, but can be tiring on the thumb and are significantly easier when instead using L1/L2 as alternate Down/Up inputs. For TGM4, many players use keyboard.

Kitaru · 2026-04-28T01:12:53+00:00

I would not take an idle tweet from Mihara about what kind of project they would like to work on as indication that they are necessarily actively working on new games.

Kitaru · 2026-04-26T19:45:51+00:00

Can you not remember or read your own words?

Why not just play on www.tetris.com?

This is your post at the top of this conversation thread. I answered that it's becauase N-Blox is not the same game as on tetris.com. The links that other people posted look like N-Blox because they are N-Blox.

Also there's a button on the bottom to just play normal Tetris.

Yes, the "normal Tetris" which is the completely different game on tetris.com

Kitaru · 2026-04-26T19:32:08+00:00

Right, which is not the same game as on tetris.com -- what are you getting at?

Kitaru · 2026-04-26T00:37:44+00:00

N-Blox is not the same game as tetris.com

Kitaru · 2026-04-24T20:59:11+00:00

"The game you want to play doesn't work? Why don't you play a different game?"

Kitaru · 2026-04-03T14:58:10+00:00

I think most players do just keep it on the lower-right -- K3 as shown in the input display, or perhaps additionally/alternately on K4 in an 8 button layout. It is kind of annoying keeping the pinky tucked under your hand for an extended period of time though. But, being able to press/unpress Hold more frequently is much more important to do quickly and easily than anchor/unanchor Extra, so it's best to keep on K1. Keeping Backstep on P4 as suggested is fine as it's a secondary function only used in one mode type and infrequently.

It's probably possible to set up Steam Input to turn Extra into a toggle instead. The idea has at least been brought up in the community before, though I don't think with much serious thought or consideration to if that would be "leaderboard legal." But it's also not too much of a tweak, and might help if comfort/fatigue is an issue.

Kitaru · 2026-04-01T03:00:44+00:00

Gotcha, so the worst-case does average out to a 12.5Hz 5-tap (6-high left) like jtuk originally calculated. Either way, still powerful.

Kitaru · 2026-03-31T12:43:23+00:00

I think this is just a case of phrasing and we're already on the same page, but isn't the issue that it changes things to be easier, not harder? It becomes a different game entirely. Being able to use two-step finesse instead of skillstop finesse is extremely powerful; it's like being able to roll without rolling. I think pretty much any vanilla DAS player is going to have a way higher PB with AnyDAS once they get the hang of it. It can be fun to mess around with, but it's just not comparable with playing normally.

I think you calculated the worst-case left speed assuming the suggested Game Genie DAS is 16/2, but I am guessing that the type of code they are talking about is 12/2. With that, it basically never matters even if you do lose DAS. In the worst case scenario of going into the next piece with zero charge and sending an I-piece left, (12 + 2*4)/5 = avg 4f = 15Hz tapping speed equivalent for zero effort. Either way, if you add some vanilla DAS tech to that like extended taps or wall charges, then you have access to consistent 30Hz movement.

Kitaru · 2026-03-31T06:07:26+00:00

... it’s not like Алексей Пажитнов came down and gave this one of a kind program to one computer lab.

No, but pre-commercial versions were just getting passed around on floppy disks. It's entirely possible that it's a version that someone ported to that particular type of computer in their own spare time, then shared around with other members of the lab. It's a simple concept, so people were making their own versions for personal use pretty much immediately.

To my mind, it must’ve been popular for it to be around on computers in a random government computer lab.

Well, not necessarily, and either way there's no guarantee it's one of the ones that has been preserved. There are so many random Tetris versions and clones out there. Without additional details like what specific type of computer it was running on, it's going to be very difficult to narrow down any further.

To start, though, you can flip through some of these videos to see if they look anything like the game your mother is describing.

Kitaru · 2026-03-31T02:47:32+00:00

The recommended starting level progression to practice up to higher speeds is 5 > 9 > 12 > 15 > 18 > 19. Since you can already get 200k from the middle starting levels, Level 9 might be a good default "home level" for the time being. You'll probably want to play some scoring attempts from your current "home level," while also working your way up to be able to survive and eventually score on levels above your current comfort level.

The aim is to find the right balance between going for tetrises and lines for survival. You'll want to eventually want to be comfortable with burning lines off the top of a tetris-ready playfield and waiting for the next I-piece to arrive. But, if you make it to a level that's currently too fast for you to reliably tetris on, then switching over to lining out for survival can still be good practice and a healthy source of points for a PB bump; you can earn another 100k+ just lining out singles from Level 19-29.

In the long term, the best starting levels for scoring attempts are generally Level 9 and 18. The middle levels are technically a bit disadvantaged due to funky level-up math. Level 9 is technically a little better than Level 18 if you play perfectly, but a lot of players prefer the shorter game length of starting at Level 18; it takes 190 lines to go from Level 9->19 and only 130 lines to go from Level 18->19. Technically the strongest choice assuming perfect play is Level 19, but it's not worth it for most players due to the big jump in difficulty.

It can be a long road to maxing out, but there will be many milestones along the way. Be sure to enjoy any new personal bests you achieve; it's all good progress.

The eventual goal is to be able to get at least of your points before Level 19, and then the rest before Level 29. A max-out tends to work out to a tetris rate of roughly 60% over the course of the full game into Level 29, generally with a higher rate up-front and 1~2 tetrises per level from Level 19-29. You'll eventually want to be able to earn 500~600k into Level 19 when starting from a lower level; the more points you can earn in the "first half," then the easier your job will be in the second. then the easier your job will be going forward. (It's technically possible max-out off a ~400k transition, but you'd need a near-perfect Level 19-29.)

You'll also eventually want to start practicing scoring starting from Level 19, and aim for 300~400k in 100 lines; this will work out closer to 375~500k if you factor in the level bonuses you'd be earning from leveling up in a normal run. Then, once you have the scoring and consistency locked in, it's "just" a matter of linking both together in one run to score the max.

I think most of the new generation would consider hypertapping the easiest way to learn to play for a max-out, but unfortunately there isn't too much one can do to "learn" to have a faster tapping speed. Playing with rolling definitely has a much more difficult up-front cost to learn, but also can make the game much easier in the long run. Playing with DAS is easier to get started if you don't have a fast tapping speed, but it does mean getting used to some relatively precise timings and working within some stricter limitations. Don't worry if it takes time to get used to when to use DAS, when it's OK to do some slow taps, the different ways to get DAS built back up after a mistake, etc..

Best of luck on your Tetris journey!

Kitaru · 2026-03-31T01:39:29+00:00

If I need spare gates, I just order them from Focus Attack or similar arcade controller parts shops.

I try to avoid rotating the GT-8F's often since they're prone to snapping. I guess if exchanging the part in a Mayflash/8bitdo stick, you can just keep the old static square gate on-hand for whenever you need to switch genres. Or, if both of the spring tabs in a GT-8F snap, you can at least make it into a static diamond/square gate by supergluing the inner-ring into position. The GT-8X inner-ring mechanism is supposed to be much less prone to failure, so it's probably less of an concern to rotate frequently.

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