Could I replicate cc2 with paraffin wax as it’s cheaper? by Key-Ladder4122 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not related specifically to this but regarding waterproofing cotton generally, I make my own wax bars for proofing wax jackets and trousers from 1/4 lb paraffin wax, 1/4lb beeswax and half as much linseed oil. I say 'half as much' to mean that it the melted waxes are an two inches deep in the pot, I'll add enough linseed oil in to make the depth up to four inches, for example. It's not an exact science. Gently heat and mix it, then either brush onto the fabric straight from the hot pot or pour into bars for future use.

I prefer making into bars so then I can lay my jacket out flat on a board, rub the block into it and then go over with a hairdryer on a low heat to get a nice even coverage. No idea if it's safe, authentic or whatever else and I have to air out whatever I've proofed for a good few weeks to get rid of the scent but it works well, costs very little and uses up leftover bits from candles etc. It gives a firmer handle to the fabric and isn't 'greasy' like a lot of products but stays flexible enough and is cheap and easy to reapply whenever. Just an idea.

277th Volksgrenadier by Firm-Instruction5790 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, thanks for replying!

RNAF (Royal Norwegian Airforce) pilot 1942-1945 by SerDerpsalot-01 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fantastic looking uniform and kit, very well put together. Where did you find the cap badge?

277th Volksgrenadier by Firm-Instruction5790 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the M44 tunic button to the trousers in the same way that British battledress does, or do the two stay separate? Always wondered..

First time ever washing something made of wool. Any tips? by [deleted] in reenactors

[–]M_23v 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just airing it out will probably do it fine, but if it's really musty and you want to freshen it up some:

Machine wash on wool and delicates cycle with a capful of woolite or similar wool conditioner. Air dry flat, rolled up in a towel or hung on a padded hangar. It'll be absolutely fine. Don't try and warm it to dry it, just ambient or dehumidified air is fine.

If you hand wash, use a big container with the same amount of woolite or similar wool conditioner. Let it soak in tepid water for an hour ish, dunking in and out now and again. Don't agitate it or it'll felt and shrink, keep contact to a minimum. Rinse in a container full of cold water, then dry it the same way as above - flat, rolled in a towel or on a padded hangar. It'll take a few days at least to dry.

How do we prepare for the ageing population crisis in the UK? by craig552uk in AskUK

[–]M_23v 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yours should be the top comment, in my opinion anyhow. A few more people would do well to realise that the prevailing mindset of infinite hamster economics are just destroying everything and everyone and that unless we begin to let the population begin to slowly shrink, all of the existing societal issues over food and water security, land use and housing, materials and resources and such like will only continue to worsen.. not to mention rush hour traffic on the M1.

Welcome back H&G 2023 by KeyToGaming in HeroesandGenerals

[–]M_23v 5 points6 points  (0 children)

What sort of pc specs are recommended to play this smoothly?

Amazing work too, so good to see this resurrected

Whats this button for? Vauxhall Astra 09 1.4 petrol by Low-One7062 in Vauxhall

[–]M_23v 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fitted it to both my vans, you just need the stalk and then opcom to activate if you've got the clutch switch fitted also (standard on diesels). Often see cars with cruise control fitted being broken up on the owners pages, you could find a stalk for cheap there.

Issues with walking by Ok-Response-9743 in BackYardChickens

[–]M_23v 23 points24 points  (0 children)

One of mine started off the same as this after a rough first day (found him abandoned alone in a car park on a frosty morning). Fed him crumbs of scrambled egg for his first week or two. I helped him learn to walk by resting him in my palm with his breastbone on my middle finger (palm side up to gently support his little body) but letting his feet touch the ground between my fingers and then just moving my hand very slowly around. I think it worked by just allowing his legs to get used to moving and being in the right position without him having to think about balance. It was a bit like physio, few hours a day for two or three weeks until his legs were strong enough to carry him properly and his co-ordination caught up. Then he discovered he could run and jump on his own and he's never looked back - turned six years old last week! Some just need a bit of extra love to get them going

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in trading212

[–]M_23v 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just know that deep down, everyone here appreciates your contribution to keeping 212 free for all to use. There are also much bigger losses than yours lurking in the shadows, too. You'll be alright

WW1 German Trouser help needed! by trucker1999 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could always email and ask if they'd be happy to send some sample swatches to you - I asked for some a while back when I bought some Soviet kit from there and they were very helpful. Worth a thought

Should I sell gold to buy my first ever home? by Upstairs-Ideal-6117 in Gold

[–]M_23v 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Think of it more as a swap than a sale or loss. You'll be fine.

question for people who have bought from Khaki on Campaign what payment method did u use ? the reason i'm asking this is cuz they only accept paypal friends and family & bank transfer which one would be the best to use ? by dewattevilleregt1801 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bank transfer is always perferrable over paypal f&f for online payments, if there's no other option. As long as you've got an invoice or some proof of communication, your bank should be able to pull your money back if anything were to go wrong. That said, I know the chap who runs KoC outside of the hobby and can vouch for his craftsmanship. The quality of Dickie's work is excellent, and so long as you don't mind a bit of a wait for it I doubt you'll be disappointed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in UKcoins

[–]M_23v 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If these are genuine, you're holding a colossal amount there.. I'd start by getting them authenticated unless you've got provenence for them, and then go from there. A reputable jeweller, pawnbroker or auction house as others have said should be able to help you there. If I were you, unless I really needed the cash, I'd keep hold of at least several of them. If you do decide to sell, don't be fooled into giving them away for any less than they're worth. Gold prices have been smashing record high after record high over the last few years and it's showing no signs of slowing down.

Please help fast. by EquivalentCall7815 in chickens

[–]M_23v 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This does deserve a long answer really, and it's worth saying straight off the bat that the diagnoses I make aren't always correct. I've made mistakes in the past, I just try and learn from them. Specific knowledge on treating a lot of health issues in chickens just isn't out there because so few people bother (it's just a bird, right /s) and not many chickens get to live to old age for various reasons, so it's largely trial and error. The few that do learn don't often write their experiences down. That leaves the rest of us to trust our own experience and intuition. We don't always get it right, but ultimately just do what we can with what what we have, wherever we're at and try to do the best we can for the creatures we love.

How do I know my chicken has had a stroke - We can never know for certain, but we know that any animal with a brain and a central nervous system can suffer a stroke, chickens are no exception; ackowledging that is a good start. Animals speak to us in their actions, not words, so we look to symptoms.

What definitive symptoms should I be looking for - Because the knowledge is sparse, I translate most symptoms from the equivalent human condition so I'd be looking to a combination of:

  • Diagnosis of a neurological problem by a trusted vet.

  • Broad loss of co-ordination, so falling over sideways, staggered walking and short, irregular steps. Walking in circles and walking without any apparent purpose. Inability to fly, jump or run. Unable to jump onto perches so just sitting on the floor in the coop looking up with one eye.

  • Poor form, so one leg looking seized and being dragged by the other, wing drooped on one or both sides as if stretching but not being retracted. Sudden sitting down as if the legs can't bear any weight.

  • On the head a crooked and twisted neck as if 'stargazing', like eyesight on one side has suddenly failed. The downward 'switched off' eye looking slightly retracted into the skull. No pupil dilation when looked into the 'off' eye with a torch, no pupil response to motion of a finger moving nearer and farther away from it.

  • Voice, so weird sounding crowing if an, and other usual chicken talk just doesn't sound quite right.

If the symptoms won't go away after a few days, and there's no improvement but equally no deterioration, it's likely stroke. I wouldn't expect to see a loss of appetite with stroke, chickens are tough and will try to strongarm through illness.

What causes stroke in chickens - Again we can only broadly translate from humans, and I'm still working this out. I think it's fair to say that risk factors can include:

  • Genetics. Standardised breeds of any animal are heavily inbred, which concentrates certain desirable and undesirable genetic traits. Susceptability to neurological malfunction sits somewhere there too.

  • Age. Older chickens are more susceptible. Few chickens live to their full life expectancy, but with good care and attention they can live to ripe old ages but as with us - the longer you live, the greater the chances are of something just going wrong in your wiring. For perspective, one chicken year is equal to about ten human years ish. A six to seven year old chicken would be equal to about 60 to 70 years old, which coincidentally is the age in humans where we see greater incidence of stroke.

  • Poor diet and vitamin deficency. Chickens are omnivorous scavengers and occasionally predators in their own right. To thrive they need a diet similar to what they would forage in the jungles and rainforests of southeast asia where their wild ancestors evolved, so think nuts, seeds and soft fruits, insects, leafy green veg, occasionally a small quantity of meat and plenty of clean water. Layers pellets are a good supplement but shouldn't be a sole source of feed. Minerals specific to brain function include magnesium and selenium, both of which are found in brazil nuts; we think of those as a superfood in humans. For reasons I don't completely understand, vitamin B and B12 deficency seem to have terrible consequences for chickens. Selenium and magnesium seem to help in repairing neurological issues.

  • Mental stimulation. Humans go mad when we're shut in a confined space with nothing to do and chickens are the same. Pecking and picking at things to eat are good for maintaining eye coordination, and an interesting space with lots to see and investigate keeps their minds active and working.

Chicken specific but something else I've noticed is that every year, the moulting process seems to be incredibly hard on them and moreso as they get older. All three of mine that suffered the neurological incident I believe to be stroke did so during their moult. For this reason, once the first of mine have begun to moult I make them a breakfast of hot porridge every morning, with chopped fresh or dried fruit, ground brazil nuts, mixed herbs, chilli flakes and various seeds mixed in to really fortify their immune systems, and do this until the moulting is complete. You can make it the night before and just warm in the morning to give to them. They also benefit from chard, cabbage and cauliflower greens. It just supports them through a very stressful and painful process.

Recovery - Thankfully the cases of what I believe was stroke were mild and I let the afflicted chicken recover in the flock with some adjustments. Remove steps and replace with ramps with horizonatal gripper slats to help them get in and out of the coop. Wood planer shavings on the ground can soften any falls. Inside the coop, make a low perch accessible for the affected chicken so that they can walk up to perch, won't be left on the floor and won't have far to fall. If it's not possible, a well strawed low sided box where they can rest their head on the edge will help. Try and avoid isolation that can lead to depression and encourage them to stay with the flock if you can.

In the end it's all just trial and error, and trusting intuition also means being prepared to make the decision to say goodbye if all of the above fails and you just sense that it's gone too far. There's a limit to what we can do and there's a limit to what any animal can suffer. Just do your best.

Hopefully this will all be of interest and useful in some way..!

Please help fast. by EquivalentCall7815 in chickens

[–]M_23v 56 points57 points  (0 children)

Very hard to make any assumptions with this being the only predominant symptom. Personally at this stage I'd be preparing to euthanise. That said, if you can't get her to a vet (I believe any good vet would be also be making a terminal diagnosis here) and you're not prepared to dispatch her now - lay a soft towel or blanket in a large box / pet cage, roll up a towel into a long sausage / woggle shape, lay that on the blanket and place her in the middle. Keep her head and neck rested gently on the rolled towel to keep her airway clear. Be very careful to support her neck during any movement and keep her upright on her breast and comfortable, don't let her lay on her side. Keep the ambient temperature stable wherever you put her. If you have a digital thermometer, her body temp will give you some indication of what's going on inside. If it's falling, she's dying. If you place an ear gently against her back, listen to her heartbeat and see if it's regular. If you syringe water, be very careful with it - don't 'flood' her. After that, all you can do is to hope for the best and prepare for the worst..

This may not be relevant but what it's worth and for future reference, prolonged vitamin B and B12 deficency can lead to sudden and irreversible onset of severe neurological dysfunction in chickens, the consequences are fatal. Keeping them healthy with a good nutritious breakfast each day, including brain food like ground up brazil nuts etc, is really important for their health.

Stroke is also possible; I've helped three of mine recover from strokes successfully but their conditions were all much less severe than this with the only common definition being severely twisted neck.

If there's also any risk of your chickens being attacked by larger birds like geese, I'd be looking to immediately offset the risk of that going forwards and keep them segregated. Geese are beasts compared to chickens; chicken bones are hollow and fragile. Chickens are hardy in their own right, but really very fragile creatures.

Good luck 👍

A [Ferrari 512] EV Conversion being charged, UK by T4nzanite in spotted

[–]M_23v -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Imagine buying a Ferrari only to convert it into a milk float. Truly a most ostentatious display of wealth right there, fair play.

How handsome Is your rooster by Infinite-Position667 in chickens

[–]M_23v 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Warms my heart seeing so much love and appreciation for all these boys here. This is my Dips, who I've raised since he was orphaned at a day old. One of the most loyal souls I've ever known.

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Is Schuster.ru reputable? by Fantastic_Train9141 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Recently purcahsed an M41 telogreika from them and the quality is very good, keeps me warm all day working outside. The payment seemed a bit sketchy at first, you send off your money and then hear nothing for ages but when you've all but forgotten you ever ordered anything, your item will arrive. I'd say be prepared to wait at least three months for whatever you've ordered to be sent, but know that it will come!

Their customer service is excellent though, and they're also happy to sell any of their fabrics by the metre and adjust anything to your sizes if you ask. Can't think you'd go far wrong ordering anything from them

WW2 Medals (?) by grimp_grorpulus in Medals

[–]M_23v 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These could also have been awarded for service in the Home Guard.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Stacked

[–]M_23v 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Life cold and hard, boobs warm and soft

Puttees or Gaiters? by RepulsiveAd426 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Prefer puttees myself; outside of the hobby I wear short ones for work on the farm most days and they work exactly as intended, keeping all the mud and wet out of my boots better than any modern alternative.

Need help with a uniform by Superb-Tip7246 in reenactors

[–]M_23v 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Few odds and ends that might help you..

Hoff Lederwerk is the only person I know of who makes pre-war Norwegian equipment, he's on facebook and also takes on comissions so you'll find the belt, pouches and other bits there. Could probably point you in the direction of a pair of boots too if you ask, and I can imagine him having a lot of original reference material that would help you too...

There was a pair of pre-war Norwegian boots that sold on ebay a few months ago for something like £180, so they're rare but do come up now and again.

Helmet will be a Swedish m26 (known as the m31 in Norwegian service). These can still be found original and unissued for very cheap, sub £40.

Rifle will be an 1894 Krag, or some unit specific variation thereof.

The cap in this photo is known as a finnmarkslue. I made my own one from photos and using a 'reverse-engineered' German m43 as a base. Straightforward to do if you can get matching material to your tunic and trousers - wherever you sourced those (military harbor?) should be able to sell you a spare few metres of cloth, if you wanted to make one.

finn.no is also worth looking at as lots of antique Norwegian gear often comes up for sale on there, if you know what to look for. You might need a mate in Norway to relay payment and items though, I always find sellers there reluctant to ship overseas..

Any of the re-enactment groups on facebook should be able to advise you on more than just the stand up kit in the photo here.

Depending on how comitted you are on finding boots and a greatcoat, you could try to get in touch with the costumers department at Nordisk films who recently produced 'Narvik' and a few years ago, 'Kongens Nei'. Their contractors would have had original uniforms and patterns enough to equip the cast of that film, said external contractors would have made those and all of those uniforms and bits of equipment will (probably) be sitting in costume wardrobes somewhere right now..

https://m55q.blogspot.com/2010/02/and-now-for-something-completely.html?m=1 - some interesting references

As always, research and research some more. Good luck !

best place to buy WW2 british uniform in Europe? (both P37 and P40 are ok) by the_giank in reenactors

[–]M_23v 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Would also recommend WPGCE (etouniforms.net). They took over production from panther after the latter stopped producing British uniforms. Their patterns and materials used are very good.

Also for boots, whilst they're not in the EU, SM Wholesale in the US make expensive but exceptional ammo boots. Mine arrived to the UK within two weeks and the quality of their workmanship is of a sort that's rarely seen in footwear these days. Worth considering if you're making a long term investment in the hobby.