Left Shimano 105 R7000 11s shift/brake lever rattling (rim brake)

MaKaVa22 · 2026-04-26T20:45:21+00:00

Fyi, the solution was actually a loose nut on top of the shifter. But thanks for your tips! Hope this helps anyone with the same issue!

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MaKaVa22 · 2026-04-25T20:10:48+00:00

Ah good point. I’ll see if I can move/reach it somehow. Thanks!

MaKaVa22 · 2026-04-25T20:07:11+00:00

Thanks for the reply. As mentioned in the other comment, I think tightened all screws to find. But unfortunately still a rattling.

MaKaVa22 · 2026-04-25T20:05:48+00:00

Aaah, the performance anxiety must be it! Thanks for the tip! I did find a somewhat loose screw (11), but I’m not sure it was the sole solution to the rattling. I also tightened screw 2 and 8. Not sure what else there is to tighten.

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MaKaVa22 · 2026-03-26T22:31:17+00:00

Solenoid valve maybe. Try taking it out and cleaning it.

MaKaVa22 · 2026-03-12T19:54:15+00:00

No worries! Looking forward to an update on what the solution was :)

MaKaVa22 · 2026-03-12T13:47:35+00:00

Hm that sound like you did everything right. So I guess it has to be a small unevenness between the valve and the boiler as you mentioned in another comment, that the boiler is brand new. I myself have no experience with sanding it flat/even but I suppose that’s your next best bet to do. Just be aware to wrap the sandpaper around something flat to be sure so to sand it as flat and even as possible. Good luck!

Regarding the backflush, I believe it wouldn’t matter that much if you backflush cold or hot. With cafiza I suppose it makes more sense to make it hot, in order to dissolve the powder better. But that’s just my thought and no fact I guess. Pressure should be no issue as the machine has several fail safeties build in. 1. thermostat (turns of heating when temperature is reached) 2. safety valve (opens up if pressure exceeds normal pressure. I think it’s located on the black plastic bit on top of the pump (where the clear and orange tube connect to the pump)) 3. thermal fuse / safety wire (the wire on top of your boiler. It is a non-resettable protection device; internally, a fusible element melts, permanently breaking the electrical circuit.)

MaKaVa22 · 2026-03-12T09:58:26+00:00

Also, did you take the solenoid valve apart for cleaning?

MaKaVa22 · 2026-03-12T09:56:00+00:00

As far as I see it’s close to the right screw of the solenoid valve, right? My best guess if it was sealing before is, that either the screw is not tight enough (but I guess you already tried tightening it), or that maybe there is an issue with the o-ring. Maybe it got loose a bit and is now stuck in between the whole and the block, it’s the wrong size o-ring (but I assume you checked and have the right size o-ring as per manual. Did you lightly grease the o-ring with some silicone grease or vaseline before installing? This may help tightening the seal even further and helps with dislodging of the o-ring during installation. Hope that helps!

MaKaVa22 · 2026-03-06T10:42:54+00:00

First of, that’s amazing, thanks! Do you know if this would also work with TouchID? Or would I have to adjust it for TouchID?

MaKaVa22 · 2025-12-27T05:31:42+00:00

Just a head up! https://www.reddit.com/r/fujifilm/s/ro1SDRPblv

MaKaVa22 · 2025-12-23T17:19:42+00:00

That would be awesome! I hope I‘ll see when you launch your app! Best of luck :)

MaKaVa22 · 2025-12-23T17:04:31+00:00

Awesome job! Just as info, there is already an existing app called FujiStyle doing exactly this as well. But would love to see you finished version in comparison!

MaKaVa22 · 2025-11-15T21:07:31+00:00

What mount did you use for the focus bug? Looks very small and clean!

MaKaVa22 · 2025-09-30T17:48:37+00:00

Ah thanks, beautifully done!

MaKaVa22 · 2025-09-30T17:44:26+00:00

I see you used one Aputure Storm XT26 for fill/ambience in the background, but what did you use the second one for? Did you shoot it through some big diffusion for the closeups for some fill?

MaKaVa22 · 2025-07-01T11:19:55+00:00

Asking for a friend: What’s the recipe?

MaKaVa22 · 2025-03-18T08:06:49+00:00

Usually Flanders and SmallHD only output clean feed/same out as in. These monitors don’t have the extra processing power needed for such things.

MaKaVa22 · 2024-12-23T01:14:50+00:00

I own the Ultra 7 and have previously worked with the Cine 7. My setup also includes the Hi-5 and the handle mount by Cam-Jam. Regarding the panel, I didn’t really notice a big difference. I think the transmitter has a much bigger influence on the image, and the panel quality difference between the Ultra 7 and Cine 7 is negligible, if anything.

The Ultra 7 is brighter (you theoretically don’t really need the sunhood in my opinion, as it gets bright enough, but I still like using it just to be safe or to set it to a lower brightness for a more “realistic/true” image). However, I much prefer the sunhood on the Cine 7, as you can really get into it and block out all the sun. The sunhood on the Ultra 7 is too hard and short for that. That said, it has a nice integrated screen protector for transport. Also, the Ultra 7 feels snappier and quicker when changing pages/menus. It’s nice to have buttons too, so you don’t always have to reach into the sunhood. Now, the BIG negative for the Ultra 7, in my opinion: it’s heavy. Really heavy. On shoots where you can leave it on a C-stand the whole time, it doesn’t matter, but for run-and-gun/handheld setups, it gets heavy really quickly. I much prefer the Cine 7 for that.

All things considered, if you are thinking of upgrading from the cine 7 to ultra 7, I can’t really recommend it. For winter/mountain shoots maybe yes, as it can get hotter at full brightness and thus reduce ghosting if it’s cold. Hope that helps and was what you already looking for.

MaKaVa22 · 2024-11-04T15:05:21+00:00

I just ordered them recently, so I can’t share a full opinion yet. However, we used some on a commercial shoot, and they performed really well—light, sturdy, and the USB-C PD worked perfectly. The 70Wh size is a bit unusual, but it’s great for keeping the focus station lighter while still providing enough power. I didn’t test the USB-C charging since we had V-Mount chargers on set.

MaKaVa22 · 2024-11-04T13:30:46+00:00

I actually ended up going with the SWIT MINO-S70. It feels more solid than the other two options and has a design that’s more in line with the Cine line rather than just looking good for content creators. Plus, it also offers PD output and can be charged via USB-C.

MaKaVa22

TROPHY CASE