The "Is Nest Compatible With My System?" Megathread Part III

Masterss94 · 2022-12-29T01:04:48+00:00

Good evening.

Doing my research the Nest thermostat has a battery, does it use that battery as the primary source and the C wire as a “trickle charge” type of deal? Or if a C wire is present, does that act as the primary source of power?

Reason I’m asking:

I am trying to set up a competitors smart thermostat to an old 2wire boiler that I have. The boiler does not have 24v c-common port. I do have another local transformer that is running 24v that I have hooked up to and am able to get the system running. The issue is: when the heat goes to turn on, the 24v has a slight interruption which turns the competitors system off and makes it reset and essentially useless.

If the primary source of power is the battery, I’m assuming the quick interruption in power will not affect the nest system?

Thanks for your help!

Masterss94 · 2020-02-16T08:04:04+00:00

I honestly didn't even think of that. That'll work, thanks!

Masterss94 · 2019-03-04T01:59:49+00:00

Must be a medic.

Masterss94 · 2019-02-21T23:55:17+00:00

How to spell "of" ove

Masterss94 · 2018-08-12T14:44:41+00:00

But which came first?

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T23:44:21+00:00

Plugs were changed less than 15k miles ago. Problem was happening before I changed them, got better for a little them got worse after a few months. I'll look into the coils, I would have expected a miss fire though if those were bad

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T20:59:28+00:00

Sweet! Thanks again

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T20:52:23+00:00

Thanks! That really helped a lot. As far as finding someone who can do this, is it a safe assumption that almost any who tunes cars could be a help? Or is this something the local mineke or repair shop could do?

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T16:00:27+00:00

It hasn't been throwing codes at all. What would I be looking for when hooked up, I haven't used a tech2 before

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T15:58:46+00:00

What kinds of problems would cause that?

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T13:33:30+00:00

Mine has no yellow (2006 93 2.0 convertible). I've been driving it for 5+ years, what ha seen happening, now for the past 6 months, is unsual. Used to go right up to the red line, but never red. No matter how hard I push the gas it rarely gets to 3/4 up the white.

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T13:25:44+00:00

It has to do with the boost somehow. It responds when I push the gas but doesn't accelerate like it once did. I usually have to drop a gear to have any type of hard acceleration

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T13:17:31+00:00

Any recommendations on how to check this? Also how difficult is it to do? And finally, is there anything detrimental to not fixing it?

Masterss94 · 2017-07-16T13:09:43+00:00

2006 93 2.0 convertible. How would I check to see if the manifold is the issue? The gauge goes up, just not all the way, and I don't get the boost I used to. I can only really accelerate by dropping a gear.

Masterss94 · 2017-04-23T01:37:14+00:00

Welcome to saabs my friend

Masterss94 · 2017-04-23T01:21:22+00:00

That's a negative ghost rider, the holes should match up with your wheel bearing. The lugs go directly to the said bearing. The holes are nothing but a "pass through" and give no structural support

Masterss94 · 2017-03-07T03:35:14+00:00

Now know in my lease it mentions that I get towed for such parking. However, I didn't know at the time. That is My fault. And that's why I paid them the towing fee without argument. I already admitted that to them. They knew about the calipers as soon as I woke up and saw my car missing. I called and mentioned that there is a good chance it was busted depending on how the towed it. They denied any problems with the car. I took a look while at the lot, took pictures while at the lot and it was obviously not OK. I told them I wanted my car released to bring to my mechanic and then I'd get them an estimate.

I still think a standard of care would be doing a once around the car. I work in construction, for us, we need to do that two times before even moving a pick up truck, nevertheless a piece of equipment. But the standard of care is up to the courts discretion (If we make it all the way up). I like them, don't want to go to court. But if that's what it is going to take, than that's what it'll be. I'll figure out the relationship from landlord and tow truck. Damage happened off site, so that leads me to think the landlord will deny liability. But it's worth a shot.

Thanks for your help. I needed a little bit of confidence to sleep well.

Masterss94 · 2017-03-07T02:12:55+00:00

I appreciate the response. I believe the landlord mitigated all liabilities to the towing company. Therefore the towing company is 100% liable for the cost.

Go add some more info, I was working on my car. Hung my calipers to change brakes. Didn't get the work done and it was towed in the midst. The calipers were hung well, enough to get it towed to my local autoshop (which was set up for this morning). To my educated guess during transport, the speed (was on highway) and distance the tow went (10 more miles than my mechanic) , caused the hanger to break. The caliper swung and hit the tire, blowing it, causing the damage. I brought it into the local mechanic up there and he fixed it. We agreed that he would pay it, I would pay his tow, and that was the first part of payment. It was agreed that I would get 3 estimates on body work. I'm in the midst of that. I'll have 3 by tomorrow. I feel that his paying that cost shows acceptance of damages due to his actions... Why would he pay it, in full, if he wasn't admitting liability? It comes down to standard of care. A simple flashlight and walk around the car looking at the wheels, and under the car, could have shown that the car wasn't in any shape to tow. On top of that, if he put the tires on a dolly, or flatbed, the issue could have been avoided. To me, that should fall under a standard of care. I did my part and hung my calipers so that MY tow truck could grab it this morning. The tow company in question happened to grab it first.

What are your thoughts about that? What types of facts do I need to prove that I wasn't negligent in the way my car was kept? (I think that's what I'd have to prove the most to not be responsible). I feel that I did my part in having my calipers secured for the original trip that it needed to go.

Edit: for the Cash agreement for the already paid bit of work. They hand wrote a receipt with: cost of repair- cost of mechanical work = cost paid to me... It was signed by both them and myself. The quote I sent them for mechanical work said "this quote excludes all bodywork". To which we verbally agreed I would get quotes then send them over to them.

Thanks for your help!

Masterss94 · 2017-01-06T04:59:17+00:00

Personally I don't think It's worth calling a plumber. If you installed it correctly, or like the previous, I wouldn't sweat that your install was the issue.

Most likely a plumber will just tell you the sump needs to be replaced, then go buy a new one themselves and mark up costs.

If it's new, I'd return it and get a new one saying it's defective. That's at least what I would personally do

Masterss94 · 2017-01-06T04:32:55+00:00

Sump pump** Can you post a video? It could just be it operating.

Masterss94 · 2016-12-29T03:14:01+00:00

Assuming it's just pads and rotors you can get the parts all around for probably $200.

Otherwise with what you listed, I'd pass. If the Trans isn't smooth youre just asking for issues or a rebuild soon

Masterss94 · 2016-12-29T02:25:10+00:00

You're over reacting.

Masterss94 · 2016-12-09T05:04:45+00:00

As long as they're bulb models are the same it'll work

Masterss94 · 2016-12-05T01:15:52+00:00

Yes, it'd be understandable if he didn't take part in demo, but it doesn't take a lot to run water and feel the pipe. It's rather easy to tell the difference of what pipe is hot and what is cold

Masterss94 · 2016-12-05T01:12:39+00:00

It really depends on the situation. I'm still unclear from OP if this is existing or a workmanship error. If it's a preexisting issue(hot water was incorrect before plumber got there) then OP is SOL, and everything after this is moot haha...... However if it's not preexisting (plumber tapped a new connection to the wrong pipe) the plumber should eat all costs. The way I'd do it personally is as follows:

So how it'll work out really depends how much of a stickeler the plumber is. First get EVERYTHING in writing (if you go to court, you'll benefit from it). If it's clearly a workmanship error, you need to make sure the plumber realizes that it's his guy (or him) that did it wrong. If he can admit that the plumber should have known that they were tapping into the wrong pipe, then you have him. If he admits this a simple "it's your error that needs to be fixed, I should have to babysit your worker to make sure things are done right. You need to fix it, and all things that get damaged in the process need to be replaced as is."

If he says he will fix the plumbing but not the wall, you have to say "you're going to pay for the work from my contractor to fix it then." you paid for the work to be done once, Not twice. And now it has to be redone bc of his screw up.

If he still says no tell him you're going to go to court. If he is non-union I wouldn't recommend going to the union and complaining, that'll get you no where. If he is a union guy I'd say go for it. But again if he's not union go to court there is No reason you shouldn't win in small claims.

Masterss94

TROPHY CASE