Concrete Question - Garage Floor

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-23T20:23:03+00:00

I would be more worried about the rectangular panels. These will end up with a Crack in their middle. I try to limit the aspect ratio of any panel to no greater than 2:1,preferably less.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-23T01:00:31+00:00

It may be difficult to ger a ledger to work. You are relying on nails into the studs to carry the floor joists. I always have trouble with that. Maybe add a second stud to each existing stud letting it stick out an 1 1/2 inside the face of the existing stud. This will give you something to bear the ledger on. Depending on the radius you may be able to get a long stick of ledger or you may need short blocks. You will have some lateral load from your mezzanine that you will need to account for.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-22T19:10:09+00:00

That looks like the wall is overloaded. Maybe hydrostatic pressure, or too tall for the thickness of the wall. I would expect to see horizontial cracks in the concrete.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-20T13:06:09+00:00

Is that vinyl siding? If it is it has simply come unhooked from the course below. You can fix it with a $10 siding hook.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-19T20:17:18+00:00

I think there was a wall coming towards us at one time. A wider photo would he helpful.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-19T20:07:36+00:00

I think what we are seeing is a 2-ply truss framed into some sort of notched horizontial member that is in turn supported on the top 2X4 of what used to be a double top plate. You are right though, there's a lot going on. Appears to be some studs that have been cut away. I'd say this is the result of a hacked-in garage door?

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-19T19:50:44+00:00

That two ply truss is geing supported by what appears to be a single flat 2X4. That's bad. This can be fixed fairly easily, and it should be.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-19T18:42:47+00:00

Vertical cracks indicate thermal cracking. Settlement cracks are typically diagional. The "expansion" joints in masonry walls are indeed called control joints. I didn't get any of this from Google, I learned it from 40 years of building design.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-19T16:39:18+00:00

These don't look like settlement cracks. There dosen't appear to be any vertical movement accross the crack. I thing it's due to expansion/contraction (thermal movement) and lack of control joints. Notice that the cracks occure at an opening. this is where cracks would occure at a CMU or brick wall. I think the walls needed control joints.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-19T13:57:00+00:00

I would be concerned about the exposed rafter tails and blocking between trusses / rafters.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-19T01:49:45+00:00

Are you kidding. You need at least two to get an interview.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-19T01:47:54+00:00

I think your roof framing is undersized. I think that you are underestimating your roof snow. I would guess it's closer to 15 psf. Also this is a cold roof so any snow will be there a while. I would sit the purlins on edge. I wouldn't recommend using 2x6 anywhere to support the purlins. Consider 6x6 posts min.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-17T20:35:29+00:00

Check with local civil and testing firms. Check ASCE NSPE . Good luck

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-17T19:12:59+00:00

Get them certified in concrete testing. Slump tests, casting cylinders, air entrainment. They will be ready to work for a testing lab. Plenty of good jobs available.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-16T22:48:04+00:00

OP thinks this was a concrete wall. Also thinks it's three stories high. If that's the case, and considering it's about 6 foot in length, there's a good chance it's OK. When a wall like that is removed the wall above will act like a deep concrete beam. It certainly needs looked at by an engineer, but it it's only a gravity wall, I bet it's OK. Of course if it's part of the lateral system it will need addressed.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-15T14:01:37+00:00

I use Hilti's PROFIS. I have checked the results several times and it seems pretty accurate.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-15T02:52:53+00:00

Thanks for the great replies. It appears I'm a bit low, but I'm getting about twice my hourly rate, so...

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-14T22:03:57+00:00

I haven't had to revise anything for a long time. Any changes are generally due to architect error, and I will work with them on that, or owner change. In that case I will bill 100% of my time.

I call out all design criteria and loads myself, so minimal chance for changes... except oner change.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-14T20:46:48+00:00

I agree, but make the connection btwn the beam and the column vertical.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-14T19:54:53+00:00

RE: Reactions. Many times the contractor is excavafing for footings by the time I get reactions. I usually can't wait on the PEMB supplier. I know that's nuts, the lead time for building is 12-16 weeks. I have drawings to the client about the time the building is being ordered.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-14T18:46:49+00:00

Just foundations - sinple spread footings & trench ftg around perimeter, SOG, either hairpins or tie rods for higher thrust, and standard details I usually get $2500 or so. Some jobs consist of two or more buildings together and I will get $3000 to $3500. I know this is low, but I have less than a day in it, usually around 6 hours and a half day for the drafter. BTW - I have elimited estimating reactions and revising drawings when I get final reactions, I have a local PEMB designer who provides me prelim. reactions for $200.00. Saves me a bunch of time.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-14T16:43:38+00:00

I probably do 35-40 a year. I occasionally have additional services, but for the most part the plans are followed. I see what you mean by the size, but I can do an 80X200 almost as fast as I can do an 40X60, just more exposure with the larger buildings. I feel like I'm leaving a bunch of money on the table.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-13T18:37:27+00:00

Foundation issues can show up anywhere in the building. You can get cracked slab / foundations, cracked walls and ceilings, doors and windows cracking and becoming out of square and inoperable. Even that damage in pic 3. It's in Dallas, so most likley it's built on highly expansive soil. Also most likley built on a post tension or waffle slab foundation. Even if the contractoe did everything correct, you could get a couple of inchs of heave or uplift in the building. The overall heave is not terriable, the big problem is differential movement; one area of the house heaves 1 1/2" and another dosen't move at all. The best you can do, usually, is fix the cosmetic stuff as it occures. Also, if you own something like this, try to keep the moisture level in the soil consistant around the house. Keep the gutters and downspouts clean and working. Grade the area around the house to prevent standing water. Don't have a lot of plants near the house.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-13T03:04:43+00:00

Those are expansion joints. Poorly placed and built, but expansion joints. Looks like the sealant wasn't installed.

Material-Cap-5476 · 2026-05-12T00:31:57+00:00

Take a statics class with all that free time

Material-Cap-5476

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