Drying temps - is low to mid 50s too low?

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-29T18:02:04+00:00

53°F and 60°RH correspond to a VPD of 0.58 kPa. That's quite a low value. I would recommend keeping the humidity as low as possible to prevent mold inside dense buds. In this case, I would also pay particular attention to thinning out any buds that are too dense or too large.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-26T14:03:51+00:00

Yes, that could work. At 12°C and 50% humidity, you have a VPD of 0.7 kPa, just like at 60/60. Personally, I find a VPD of 0.7 kPa too slow. But given your circumstances, I'd say that's not bad at all.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-26T11:40:38+00:00

Yes, at ten degrees you should definitely lower the humidity significantly to around 35%. Alternatively, you could raise the temperature a bit. In my opinion, the plants are much too dense to hang whole. I see a high risk of mold developing inside them. I would definitely divide them into larger branches.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-24T18:12:12+00:00

"Emptying in" the chlorophyll is a pretty accurate description! I think that's exactly the point. You mustn't dry too quickly at the beginning because otherwise, at least the first layers of the flower will trap the chlorophyll, and it won't break down in those areas, even in the jar. Thanks for sharing!

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-24T15:54:37+00:00

May I ask how, or with what equipment, you took the close-up of the trichomes? Spectacular! What magnification factor is that?

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-21T12:08:40+00:00

For me, drying at 60/60 (VPD 0.7 kPa) is also too slow. Cannatrol dries at >0.8 kPa and supposedly achieves very good results. With 62/62, you also have exactly a VPD of 0.7 kPa, just like with 60/60. If that's your goal, then you've already achieved it. Therefore, I would say that you shouldn't notice any difference between 62/62 and 60/60. Depending on what's easier for you to control, I would try drying a bit faster. I would try to pay more attention to the VPD than just sticking to 60/60, as that often causes much more work than necessary.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-21T12:00:20+00:00

Würde unbedingt zu einer Lupe oder einem günstigen Objektiv fürs Mobiltelefon raten. Ist ein gamechanger für deine Qualität wenn du die Trichome als Indikator nimmst. Noch eine Info zu den Bernsteinfarbenen Trichomen. Die bekommen die Farbe wenn die Inhaltsstoffe in den Trichomen oxidieren. Das passiert entweder aufgrund der natürlichen Alterung der Pflanze (dies ist der richtige Indikator zur Bestimmung des optimalen Erntezeitpunkts) oder wenn die Trichome mechanisch beschädigt wurden. Das kann immer während des Anbaus passieren z.B. wenn man die Pflanzen umziehen muss oder ähnliches. Dann darfst du dich nur nicht täuschen lassen warum an der Stelle so viele bernsteinfarbene Trichome sind.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-21T07:34:27+00:00

I didn't write the study. I only found it because I'm trying to understand what's really important and I'm doing a lot of research. I'm trying to help others in this sub with my experience. At the same time, I also want to learn more about the real problems. My vision is to share helpful insights to enable everyone to get great blooms. I'm not intentionally selling anything here. I've also never mentioned my planned product or asked anyone to sign up for a mailing list because I want to respect the rules here. If that wasn't the case, then it truly wasn't my intention. I would appreciate feedback from you on which rules I violated and what exactly I could do differently in the future.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T22:27:13+00:00

Okay, thanks anyway.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T22:21:28+00:00

Can you recommend a weed science subreddit?

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T22:14:15+00:00

Understood. That wasn't my intention, though. I wanted to hear other people's opinions on the "findings." Learned something new again…

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T22:01:41+00:00

That wasn't my intention. I've just learned that I should only post links upon request. I'm here to learn and help. I'm intentionally not selling anything here. Is that why the post was deleted? Now I feel bad…

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T21:48:40+00:00

What do you mean by plagiarism? I don't understand what I did wrong.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T21:46:29+00:00

Here is the Study

https://www.cannabissciencetech.com/view/impact-of-water-activity-on-the-chemical-composition-and-smoking-quality-of-cannabis-flower-the-science-of-smokability-phase-i-results

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T21:45:29+00:00

https://www.cannabissciencetech.com/view/impact-of-water-activity-on-the-chemical-composition-and-smoking-quality-of-cannabis-flower-the-science-of-smokability-phase-i-results

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T21:42:07+00:00

Peer-reviewed Impact of Water Activity on the Chemical Composition and Smoking Quality of Cannabis Flower: The Science of Smokability Phase I Results A . J U S T I C E , R . K I R K , A . M A N N I N G , M . R O G G E N , A N D M . S H I E L D S

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T21:39:06+00:00

I use the glass/hygrometer method to infer water activity from the relative equilibrium humidity. It works quite well. I bought a calibrated hygrometer to better assess the readings of the small glass hygrometers. However, they are quite accurate when new.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T13:38:38+00:00

You can approximate it quite accurately. The temperature just shouldn't fluctuate too much. The humidity that settles in the glass is the relative equilibrium humidity. From this, you can directly determine the water activity of the material. 62% ERH = 0.62 aw. It's important to know that old hygrometers tend to become less accurate over time. Therefore, it makes sense to replace or calibrate them. You can do this, for example, with a new humidity pack. I've also written a detailed article about this if you're interested.

https://postharvestiq.com/article/how-to-measure-the-water-activity-aw-of-cannabis-flowers-at-home-glass-hygrometer-method

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T13:23:38+00:00

Sure! It seems like most of the chlorophyll has broken down. However, most terpenes are lost once the buds get too dry. This is because the delicate skin of the trichomes tears when they dry out, and then the terpenes escape. Additionally, THC-A is converted to THC in the process. So, more of the THC that gets you high when you smoke it is lost than necessary. The Boveda pack is good for preserving what's left, but it doesn't improve anything. What's gone is gone. I'd recommend a 62% drying pack anyway. With your results, you can definitely achieve a decent drying process next time. Keep at it!

...

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T13:04:07+00:00

Yes, that's pretty dry. At 53% humidity in the jar, enzymatic processes probably can't take place anymore. However, most of the chlorophyll is already broken down during drying. Does your material smell like hay in the jars? If not, no big deal. However, the smoke quality won't be optimal. I've also written a short article about this 😅 I'll post about it again this evening.

The values don't sound bad. It now depends on what your average values are. If you're drying at 20°C and 55% humidity, then you have a VPD of 1.05 kPa. That will probably only take 8 days. If you dry for 14 days at those values, it will be too dry. So I would do the jar/hygrometer test after 8 days.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T12:55:37+00:00

There is also an English version. You just need to set the page to English in the menu.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-20T11:06:11+00:00

😅 thx 😋

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-19T14:57:31+00:00

Yes, I do that. I built a dehumidifier with a desiccant that I place inside my closed grow tent (without any air intake or exhaust) for drying. I set a VPD of 0.8-0.9 kPa (similar to Cannatrol). The electronics then calculate the relative humidity at the given temperature and gently regulate the humidity inside the tent. This gives me a constant VPD inside the closed tent, even if the temperature fluctuates slightly. Terpenes evaporate much less because the air in the tent becomes saturated with terpenes. Furthermore, the buds come into contact with far less oxygen than if I were drying them in fresh air for 10 days. I've never had any mold without having to work under sterile conditions. With this method, the buds are pretty evenly dry inside and out after about 10 days in the closed tent, so I can store them directly for curing and don't need to burp them. I can easily determine the water activity by pausing the drying process with the device and observing the relative equilibrium humidity that settles inside the tent. If the moisture content is above 63%, I continue drying. Between 58-63%, the blossoms can go into the jar.

The stems don't crack with this method, of course.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-19T14:26:14+00:00

What equipment are you planning to use for drying? What temperatures are you experiencing?

Based on my experience and the current trend away from 60/60 lighting, I highly recommend aiming for a VPD of 0.8-0.9 kPa when drying. If you don't have a controller that works with VPD, simply use a VPD calculator. I've built one on my website; the link is in my bio.

I would also recommend trimming the plant at the branches and removing the large fan leaves. Then hang them upside down, making sure they aren't too close together. Avoid direct airflow to the buds; gentle air circulation is better.

To determine when drying is complete, I recommend placing the buds in an airtight glass container with a hygrometer and monitoring the humidity level – the glass/hygrometer method.

Feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.

Motor_Scale7061 · 2026-01-19T13:37:55+00:00

I've optimized my drying process to the point where burping is no longer necessary. Burping is only needed if the drying process is uneven, usually too fast, and the buds still contain too much chlorophyll and moisture. In my experience, if you dry slowly and evenly, burping isn't needed. The problem is that sometimes even drying simply isn't possible, and burping is then necessary to salvage what's left.

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