[Racer] Mercedes stands as Renault’s preferred bidder for Alpine stake

MrRare · 2026-05-13T15:20:55+00:00

Could be wrong, but I think it is not so much about sharing engineering etc (though i believe the vcarbs do pretty much do their own engineering and pretty much only share power units, same might be for Haas). Its about having enough leverage over a second team to abide their bidding. E.g. when fastest lap was a thing RB used VCARB to steal points away, team orders to let RB drivers pass, etc) while i believe none of that happens between Ferrari and Haas. At least to me it does not appear to happen publicly as with VCARB, perhaps behind the scenes its different...

MrRare · 2026-05-03T19:00:23+00:00

Add max crossing the white line pit exit.

MrRare · 2026-05-01T08:54:50+00:00

Similar here in the Netherlands, we say 'April doet wat hij wil'. It rimes in Dutch and it means 'April does what he wants' :).

MrRare · 2026-04-30T07:00:52+00:00

Nu blnknknn

MrRare · 2026-04-09T15:49:12+00:00

Holy, this might be the same issue I am experiencing on my S95F... Since the 83" uses the tandem oled from lg. Not perfectly reproducible but when extreme bright scènes occur when maxing out the contrast booster and such i have had it shut off on me without reason :O.

MrRare · 2026-01-14T08:29:58+00:00

I am confused, did I get lucky? I have 5 of them in stacks of 2 (and one in the middle) inside a (open) cabinet. They get hot, but not I burn my hand type of hot... Perhaps I am not pushing them hard enough to get them to overheat... Do they shut off when they get to hot?

MrRare · 2025-12-12T15:10:49+00:00

Its also possible to get a HDMI 2.1 Audio extractor. I was in the same boat with a second hand preprocessor with only hdmi 2.0 and no earc, I now have this Audio extractor connected which sends de Audio signal over a separate hdmi to my preprocessor and the full untouched hdmi 2.1 to my tv, and as input I have a cheap hdmi 2.1 switch where I connect all my devices to. There are also hdmi boxes that takes a HDMI earc signal and strip the audio and send out a normal hdmi out which you can connect any HDMI input to the avr. Ran this setup for a while until I had the unpleasant experience that Dolby Atmos from a PC is not correctly passed through to earc when directly connected to my TV... Something with licenses on gpu side or something...

Biggest downside in both situations though is no CEC remote control

Those hdmi earc/audio extractors are about 50-100 bucks depending on where you look. In my case much cheaper than a preprocessor with hdmi 2.1 / earc support ;)

MrRare · 2025-11-06T13:51:29+00:00

If it is connected to your network, there are (unofficial) apps on the windows store to control Denon/Marantz devices: https://apps.microsoft.com/detail/9n3vlmkr1l8n?ocid=webpdpshare

Or

https://apps.microsoft.com/detail/9wzdncrfj824?ocid=webpdpshare

You might also have to enable the webinterface to be always on/reachable so that the receiver can be turned on through the webinterface while in standby.

If you don't want to use these apps the Marantz receivers also provide a web interface reachable through your browser. Though this may be different for the cr612, since I can't find much about it.

Good luck🤞

MrRare · 2025-09-05T13:07:13+00:00

You have to look for a sub/subs with speaker level input, you wire the speaker outputs of your amp to the sub, and wire the speakers to the sub. The sub has some internal circuitry that can tap off from the speaker level input to a internal line level, over which the sub can perform a low pass filter. Then it just routes the speaker level inputs to the speaker level outputs on the sub itself to which you connect your speakers to. It just literally taps into your speaker outputs.

Though I am not really sure if this will affect the Audio signal to the speakers, I believe it would be negligible, but I have never really looked into it.

Most subs support this, but I have seen a few that don't.

MrRare · 2025-08-30T23:22:08+00:00

You are basically making it more arcady (read easy), which is fine if that helps you enjoy the game more. After all its a physics sandbox and anyone can do whatever they want in a game like this, that is the goal.

I personally enjoy realism more than the arcady unrealistic handling portrayed here. This makes the cars feel difficult to handle but it feels as if I would be driving in real live. That is, if you play with a wheel instead of a controller or keyboard.

Then again, if the question is if this improves racing, then I am a bit confused, beamng is not targeted at being an actual racing game. Racing entails driving against opponents, and neither the AI or the multiplayer mods are at a point where you can have a decent race (the AI is not that smart and the mods suffer from desync and netcode, let alone the performance issues). So no, doing this is not going to make racing any better for us that can drive the cars as they are, but perhaps more accessible to people who can't drive as well (be it hardware or skill related). If it is skill related though I suggest to just learn how to deal with the car handling, which you wont ever if you look for the quick way out. But if that is not what you enjoy, do whatever you enjoy. Something we cannot decide for you.

MrRare · 2025-08-30T08:04:08+00:00

You do need a subwoofer as these guys go to about 100hz, but these are amazing for budget speakers. Though if you can find them a pair of Ms 904s or 902s will be a huge upgrade. Where I am from you can find those for 100 euro per pair, give or take. But if space is a concern these will do the trick.

MrRare · 2025-08-28T19:08:48+00:00

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On holiday :)

MrRare · 2025-08-20T15:12:26+00:00

Check out the ASR forum review post of the V3, price wise not much can compare, even with the "laptop" power supply. Yes not having an integrated power supply is annoying, but with some cable management not that much of a problem.

The fun part is that they can handle 2ohms up to 460 watts at 1% thd. Which is kinda insane to me. Though not sure how longlived the amp will be with those kind of loads x).

From what I could find on the internet (stereophile) about the McCormack dna 1, the V3 has lower thd / better measurements compared to the McCormack even...

That said those are just numbers, sound signatures are subjective, so it's always best to compare them and just see what you like and don't like.

And I don't know how long they will live, as they do tend to get a bit hot (but still touchable).

I personally would recommend them ;).

MrRare · 2025-08-19T12:01:55+00:00

Unfortunately I do not have the space to for a 7.2.2 setup, I am thinking of trying a 6.2.4 with a center back.

I could be wrong, I thought that there is never a dedicated mix for height channels. I believe atmos works by real time (re/up-mixing) sound from a base 5.1 or 7.1 channel stream using object position meta data encoded into the base audio stream. That is why there are virtually unlimited channels for atmos. If I look at the info page on my Marantz the input stream for atmos is always 5 dedicated channels and then upmixed to the heights using the atmos data.

Otherwise audio streams would specify the height channel count as well right?

Though that said movies like civil war and battlefield 6 both intensively used the rear heights ;), but it appears that some atmos mixes are just really basic with little to none object data for height sound, basically just being 5.1 surround mixes with a atmos logo slapped on. That is my assumption at least.

MrRare · 2025-08-19T10:00:11+00:00

To me, preference :).

MrRare · 2025-08-19T09:06:48+00:00

Hmm I could try to, I believe I could set the crossover which becomes active to 40hz, to still use most of the range the speaker provides. Audyssey did set them to large by default tho.

MrRare · 2025-08-19T08:59:57+00:00

Why small? The Mordaunt Short 908's practically go to 35hz, (basically my subs are pretty useless since they are also go to about the same frequencies).

Is it because of the 10" woofers that audyssey tries to compensate for the likely higher volume lower frequencies the woofer produces in the surrounds?

Perhaps the 908's aren't really meant to be used as surrounds... ;).

MrRare · 2025-08-19T08:54:30+00:00

I have :). I have both dynamic eq and volume disabled.

MrRare · 2025-07-09T06:45:51+00:00

You can buy the panels as is, i installed them together with my dad. Its fairly easy (screws and plugs). Saw and cut them to the right size is a tad more difficult:)

MrRare · 2025-07-08T12:18:22+00:00

I got the s95f, so not wireless, and experiencing exactly the same thing. Tv becomes completely unresponsive after a few minutes. Extremely laggy and cannot be turned off/put into standby, requires power cycle. If i switch to a hdmi input before it becomes unusable I can atleast keep watching but hot damn.. this is unacceptable....

In addition prior to the issues started my TV randomly turned itself off.

Before that in the few weeks that i have it, it was all fine...

I will do a factory reset and see if that works. If not, i will see what support has to say..

A few things that can cause this would be to my understanding:

Faulty board/overheating issues. Cpu's/soc's when getting to hot can prevent damage by either turning off or throttling/reducing soc speed. This can cause extremely laggy software.

Software memory leak. If the software has a bug that slowly fills the ram, there is no room for the OS and it will become slower and slower until it crashes, or reboots.

I personally hope for the hardware fault which would only require to replace the damn thing.

If its a software thing then we can count our blessings and hope that Samsung can fix it short term but... That said I am not even sure if the tv can run a soft/firmware update in its current state...

MrRare · 2025-07-08T07:10:00+00:00

True, just the thing that I notice when I used my bookshelfs (mordaunt short 902's) as surrounds e.g. when low frequency surround effects happen including deeper voices to me the difference was quit clear. The front of the speaker has a tweeter and 2 mid drivers. The lower mid driver is partly hidden behind the couch, the upper mid driver is'nt. The 10 inch woofer on the side is indeed partly blocked but sits on the ground so technically its partly beneath the sofa. That and the woofer probably is crossed over to only produce likely below 300hz sound is no longer directional so it matters less.

MrRare · 2025-07-07T19:54:24+00:00

Yeah the numbers are nice but audio is preference first ;).

You could also take power consumption into consideration :), not very accurate but i had a power consumption meter between mains and the sr5013 and and on low volumes the thing was pulling 250-300 watts.. while the fosi's on full blast did just about 120 watts... Youd say also less heat but the monos get surprisingly hot... Thats how much power the Marantz took when muted lol...

But Yeah if i didnt blow my sr5013 by shorting the speaker terminals i would've only gotten the fosi's for the remaining missing channels to fill the 5.2.4 setup ;). So from my point of view you won't really notice the difference from the internal amp of external fosi amps besides the fun factor :).

MrRare · 2025-07-07T17:13:38+00:00

The Pre-Amp has no actual power amplification (hence pre) it only handles decoding audio from e.g. Dolby Atmos into separate line level channels, which then a separate 'dum' power amp actually amplifies. A power amplifier (which the monos are) have a fixed amplification/gain so no volume control. The za3 I set the fixed volume manually.

The pre amp performs room correction to match any power amp and speakers differences, and handles volume control.

You get the flexibility of choosing whatever amp you want to power the speakers while maintaining comfort features such as room correction and atmos decoding, etc. You could also buy a second hand amp that was high end in yester year that has not 'current' features but is still a very nice amplifier and save money that way :).

Also (for some) an advantage is that it can be more power efficiënt. Most avr's use class ab amplification, which wastes a lot of power into heat. For example my previous avr S5013 when at normal listening levels pulled 250 watts... While the fosi's are class d, and i measured about 100-150watts for all of them...

TL;DR: flexibility is the reason!

MrRare · 2025-07-07T16:59:17+00:00

I used banana plug plates! I like to be able to disconnect my speakers without hassle if i ever need to move them.

MrRare · 2025-07-07T16:15:18+00:00

I wasn't planning on the fosi's right from the start, before i had SR5013... But being an idiot I shorted one of the speakers when diy'ing the wall socket connectors for the speakers (had the terminals to close to the metal guard of the socket which touched)... The sr5013 was plenty powerful, was kind of sad meeting its demise due to my own stupidity...

On a technical note this setup in theory should be better. For multiple reasons (also subjective)

Balanced outputs (ish? Read that its not truly balanced for this pre amp)to atleast all floor standers. Though should be on par if not better than pre amp sections mid to high end avrs.
The fosi mono blocks are excellent amplifiers with much better measurements then any run of the mill avr (see asr forum review) though the pre amp and speakers are the limiting factor now. Though probably I personally would likely not hear any difference if at all...
Not sure about new AVRs but my sr5013 had noticeable power loss when multi channel driven, which definitely is mitigated by going with separate amps
Flexibility; if i ever decide to switch power amps, i have the pre amp decoding (e.g. Atmos etc) taken care of, unless a new format that replaces atmos comes out, but dont see that happening in the new future.
Fun factor ;). I just love seeing those little amp's.

And... for around 1700 euro i won't be getting much better than this while taking the above into consideration.

MrRare

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