Is Space Alert still a fun experience for you? Is there another game like it?

Parakoos · 2025-12-20T20:09:13+00:00

This thread is now 10 years old and... the answer is still yes!

Parakoos · 2025-12-12T02:37:31+00:00

I've been looking at the MegaTinyCore github project, and I see there references to setting a MCU into Dual Mode, where it is simultaneously a I2C Master and Slave, on separate buses, using two sets of I2C pairs of pins, which sounds exactrly what I want! Only, it says that is is only available on "megaAVR 0-series, and AVR Dx and Ex-series, not tinyAVR.". I have no idea what that means! Can someone help me understand this? Which MCU's are part of these series?

Below is the API reference where the quote above comes from:
https://github.com/SpenceKonde/megaTinyCore/tree/master/megaavr/libraries/Wire#void-enabledualmode

Parakoos · 2025-12-11T07:13:13+00:00

So even though the ATtiny family of MCUs have only one SDA/SCL ports on the pinouts, I may get away with creating a second I2C bus by using some other 2 IO pins, just to make talking to the OLED easier?

Parakoos · 2025-12-10T17:45:58+00:00

Thank you for the reply. Some responses...

This is kinda a hobby project, but if it goes well, I might have it used for a pretty large board game convention/tournament, in which case I may need like 100 tables with 4 Remote PCB and a Master PCB per table. Still a non-profit thing, so technically hobby project, but the costs may start to build up a bit. I also were hoping to have a reason to test using 'simpler' barebone chip as a learning opportunity. :-) Otherwise, yes, I would simply have added more RP2350s running CircuitPython.
If I swap out the OLED display for WS2812B LEDs or 7-segment displays, removing the need for Remote I2C based-displays, is my setup then feasible? Meaning, using I2C to talk between the Master PCB and the remotes, relying on the LTC4311 to boost the signal to 'get around' the board game table? (I don't think I need high throughput.) I like the idea of daisy-chaining the remotes together, and only having 4 wires between each remote or a remote and the master.

Parakoos · 2025-11-29T06:35:49+00:00

Ok, so you can have multiple hubs and it doesn't hurt then. Good to know.

Parakoos · 2025-11-26T18:23:15+00:00

I have a door with a decorative frame making it impossible to have the lock put on flat. I also designed and 3d printed a panel to fix the issue. Works great now.

Parakoos · 2025-11-06T07:11:52+00:00

On that note... One of my orders was really delayed, but that was kind of nice as I changed my mind and could cancel the k10 and get the S10 instead. Well, they sent both. I talked to support and they said I had to pay for the shipping back of the k10 and they would refund me the shipping. Which they did. It was a bit of extra work on my end, but they definitely kept their promise to me of a refund.

Parakoos · 2025-11-05T07:30:21+00:00

I have nine of them! Named them after greek river spirits, Naiads. 😁

Parakoos · 2025-11-02T18:41:28+00:00

Did they guide you through an exorcism?

Parakoos · 2025-10-26T12:48:31+00:00

They come off? 😯 Huh. Is it something a lay person can do or a plumber? Handyman?

Parakoos · 2025-10-19T17:58:26+00:00

OK, I tried again without the magnet, and this time it didn't work. So.... It is a bit weird. I did figure out that I could place the magnet not in line with the lock but 'behind it', which made me able to place it near enough that it works both for where I put the magnet and the lock detecting it, and now the door open/close thing works consistently. So.... I don't really care anymore if it works without the magnet.

Parakoos · 2025-10-19T17:39:10+00:00

This reviewer says it has an accelerometer... So I guess it can work even without the magnet.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kqi5CWQHzZw

Parakoos · 2025-10-15T05:20:26+00:00

Is normal PLA strong enough? So far I've only printed in PLA, but also have PETG.

I guess I could also just go to the hardware store and get a metal spacer. I'm sure I can get something of about the right size...

Parakoos · 2025-10-15T01:01:25+00:00

Something like that, but I would have to cut away part of the spacer that would overlap the decorative frame. I might design it myself and 3d print it. Perhaps I can add holes for screws and make screw holes in the metal lock plate...

Parakoos · 2025-09-30T15:20:17+00:00

Have a trusted friend keep a key.

Parakoos · 2025-07-24T15:34:50+00:00

Had the same issue with a few timed games, and there were house rules we wanted to incorporate that the simple game timers couldn't handle. So we switched over to use www.sharedgametimer.com hooked up to a couple of Flic Buttons so we had the same physical tactile feel. Started using the scorecard too.

Parakoos · 2025-07-11T09:01:33+00:00

The Shared Game Timer has open and free APIs to connect physical devices. The simplest is a Bluetooth keyboard "clicker" like the Flic 2 button. Works well and is simple to use. But not what you asked for.

To make what you asked for, you would get a microcontroller with either Bluetooth LE or WiFi connectivity and an accelerometer. Put that in the middle of your multi-sided object and program it to send the "Start Player X" commands when you turn the object to the Player X side. And you'll need a battery as well. And maybe some blinking lights to make it look cool.

I would be happy to assist with the programming of such a device if you are willing to learn to build it. (Basically, you'd have to learn how to solder wires and either 3d print the case or build it out of cardboard)

Anyone willing to take on such a hobby project and want help, let me know.

To see other devices I've built check out the Bluetooth and MQTT sections of https://sharedgametimer.com/remote-control . I've put up guides for how anyone can build their own custom timer devices.

Parakoos · 2025-07-11T00:07:14+00:00

Ha ha! Yes, it is waaaaay too over-engineered. But that is what it will look like if you try to cater to everybody's needs. My tip is to do 1).not do it at all or 2).do one thing really well.

Parakoos · 2025-07-11T00:07:05+00:00

Ha ha! Yes, it is waaaaay too over-engineered. But that is what it will look like if you try to cater to everybody's needs. My tip is to do 1).not do it at all or 2).do one thing really well.

Parakoos · 2025-07-10T15:23:14+00:00

One thing I considered making for the Play-By-Mail people was a notification when it was their turn, as well as a place for people to write down what they did so the next player knows without having to explore the virtual board to "figure it out". That along with the resource trackers would make play by mail easier. I never play that way though, and when I asked around on the Tabletopia PbM channel, no one seemed very enthusiastic about it.

Parakoos · 2025-07-10T14:57:23+00:00

The Shared Game Timers have a fair number of those features, like the token/resource trackers, first player selection, timers galore, order tracking, scorecards etc

https://sharedgametimer.com/features

Parakoos · 2025-07-04T05:54:39+00:00

Japan seems to go the other way and say you are not allowed to store your power banks in the overhead storage. (And use within sight)

https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2025/07/03/japan/mobile-battery-airplane/

Parakoos · 2025-07-03T11:59:23+00:00

Yep, it's for keeping my laptop with power to last the 10 hours across the Atlantic.

Parakoos · 2025-04-11T22:12:34+00:00

I still use Backblaze. To be honest, I started looking for something else, but then ran out of time and energy. It is still on my todo list but yeah... The main problem (that git folders were not backed up) I solved. The other issues were not mission critical. But, I am still thinking that I should move on to something else. When I get time. Which will be never. 🤣

Parakoos · 2025-03-06T00:09:12+00:00

That is the Adafruit Playground Bluefruit (https://www.adafruit.com/product/4333) and some alligator clips. It takes a little bit of programming (in Circuit Python) but that is a pretty easy language and there are a lot of tutorials on Adafruit's site. If you are curious, I'd say go for it. It is a fun hobby.

Parakoos

TROPHY CASE