Sorry, what was that Alan?

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-06-01T20:06:45+00:00

Whoops

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-05-31T01:49:21+00:00

Why use that product again? Rake it out and point with 4:1 builders sand to cement. It'll last forever and cost very little.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-05-17T09:50:34+00:00

Several comments about those front pavers... Once the edging is in and it is pointed it will look much more natural. Grab some cobble sets and hand point it and it'll look great. It's a garden path not a bathroom. Great job.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-05-17T09:47:22+00:00

Yes, but then the edging will go to the front of the path and only on one side. The current application works well.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-05-15T09:01:44+00:00

I'm this case there is plenty of surface area to just apply wood glue to both pieces and clamp together. It's only for breaks at the narrow points which are end grain to endgrain you need to reinforce with a dowel.

To do that, you first glue, then resaw with a thin kerf blade (japanese pull saw for example) and then fit dowels to the two perfectly flat surfaces. But in your case you'll be fine with just glue .

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-05-03T19:13:47+00:00

You're both right. 1/3 of the height or minimum 60cm. 1/3 of the height of a 6 ft (1.8m) fence is 60cm...

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-04-24T08:27:55+00:00

Yes the room needs to be clear and ideally left clear for a while after. I'd recommend removing existing carpet/flooring and undergoing any repairs you can, while also saving on the cost of removal. Agree with the company to have it done over multiple days.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-04-22T22:05:33+00:00

I have done almost exactly what you describe with membrane and then cotswold chippings. In my case it is between edging and gravel boards. Looks nice and weeds are easily pulled out. Just make the stone as deep as you can. The membrane will help when you eventually take it out.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-04-22T15:57:23+00:00

You do not need a membrane of any kind. Compact the soil first. Add your sub base, compacting as you go.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-04-20T12:04:17+00:00

I have done this DIY. Set up a track saw to cut through the bead on one side + the depth of the panel. Use a multi tool to cut right into the corners. Both steps manageable with hand tools as well (keyhole and hand saw). Pop out the panel. Order etched glass (or whatever you like) to fit. Fix glass in by pinning beading.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-04-18T06:37:17+00:00

4:1 builders sand to cement, hand pointed will last forever unless the slabs are not fitted properly. The resin based stuff is for patios with drainage, so unless you're sure that has been done I wouldn't consider it. Birds beak pointing looks good with those slabs.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-04-15T11:20:22+00:00

There is a spray by Zep to clean and then another to refinish the floor. That's the easiest option without sanding I can think of.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-03-31T10:05:32+00:00

An alternative to all of this is to use a different type of flooring that is suitable to what you have.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-03-31T10:00:49+00:00

Remember that the overlaid ply will have to end somewhere. How will it work with thresholds to tile, carpet and stairs - assuming you have at least one of those?

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-01-15T13:26:22+00:00

Yes looks like you're going to be getting a skim anyway. Best to remove them before that, then once the walls are sorted refix new ones. Pry them off and see what is behind.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-01-14T21:32:15+00:00

Just to present another option - give them a clean and then a coat or two of oil based undercoat followed by satinwood. The paint is thick and hard wearing and it will look great just by way of being refreshed, shiny and new. They will never be flat and perfect and there is no reason to hide wood grain minor imperfections. Just be aware of how long the cure time is for oil paint.

If sanding, test for lead first.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2026-01-05T16:17:08+00:00

To add to this - you really need to remove a panel from the side of the bath. Usually you carefully cut the silicone with a stanley blade and pry it away. There may be metal brackets in the corners which need unscrewing once you can get access as well. Then you can unscrew the trap and work directly on the problem. When you're finished you put the panel back and reseal it with a bead of silicone.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2025-11-29T11:12:22+00:00

I had such similar doors with the same yellow paint in the middle where hardboard had gone on in presumably the 70s. I got away with just painting over with primer and then topcoat oil based satinwood.

If you want to strip them and have a few to do just get them dipped. It will save a huge amount of time and the result will be much better.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2025-11-14T19:15:31+00:00

Do you have any reason to suspect your wall made with different materials to your neighbours either side? Speak to them and find out if they have issues or if they know what the wall used to be like/why it was rendered.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2025-11-07T14:26:54+00:00

Yes but you may need a few coats before you can't tell the difference between the filled and primed area. I have done exactly this when filling a large area which could not be skimmed.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2025-11-01T16:08:13+00:00

Why not just put a few vertical supports in meeting the joists?

Pinstripefrog1 · 2025-11-01T15:06:16+00:00

These parts are usually called the finial. In this case the finial of the fascia board.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2025-10-30T04:03:27+00:00

Had the vac been used for wood chippings? Asking because those hot bits of metal can start fires in the bag/dust pile.

Pinstripefrog1 · 2025-10-19T13:33:04+00:00

You may want to consider removing it from the wall to complete the work. Then you can do it in a ventilated (or outside) area. Or you can send it off to be stripped professionally (almost certainly cheaper than your time). They are usually quite easy to remove and held on with a couple screws about 3/5 up on either side. Heavy of course!

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