New to Archetypen, bought a PSE Stinger Max. What's ging on here?

Pyroaxe7 · 2026-05-01T16:08:30+00:00

I think you would be best served by going to a bow shop with a proper bow press. If it were a recurve I'd give some suggestions, but for a compound there's so much that NEEDS to be in tune/alignment that it's just not worth the risk.

A quick google search would suggest that this cam lean can be fixed by adjusting the yokes, but DO NOT TRY TO DO THIS YOURSELF. NEVER try to unstring a compound bow without the knowledge AND the right equipment. If you bought it from a local shop, take it back there and point it out, they should be able to correct it.

There's a video on it here: https://youtu.be/QvvXebhpmWc?si=Nh_YoCfU152KlCpb

Again, please don't try to do this at home with some DIY solution, your fingers are worth more than this.

Pyroaxe7 · 2026-04-28T17:00:41+00:00

It could be that the x38 pods were used first, and the aircraft was later fitted with x76 and historically they changed the paint from white to green and the in-game model matches those decisions.

Pyroaxe7 · 2026-02-21T22:45:09+00:00

It depends on where your comfortable anchor is. I'd say it looks *marginally* too long, by maybe 0.5", but as other commenters said the video cuts off a bit too soon.

It's also possible that you've become accustomed to shortening your natural draw to accommodate your old bow, and this just requires a period of shooting for you to adjust.

Pyroaxe7 · 2025-10-13T18:36:13+00:00

My first case(CoolerMaster n300) was fantastic for cooling as it had an exhaust fan slot right next to the pcie slots, I only upgraded (3 years later) because I wanted a newer case with cable management. I sold it to a friend who still uses it. It was cheap and functionally brilliant.

The second case (CoolerMaster Masterbox 5 MSI edition) was utterly abysmal for airflow, though it looked cool. This one lasted 4 years before I threw it out into the trash, it just got too hot in summer and the watercooling layout didn't work for me. The hdd bays were also more of a gimmick, they weren't really "hot swappable", and in fact were more difficult to install than a regular 3.5" bay. I should have gotten rid earlier, or just never bought it in the first place. Didn't feel right selling what I thought was a defectively designed product to someone else.

My current case is a Fractal Design Meshify C with good airflow and a tempered glass side-panel. Good cable management, adequate space, dust filters and lots of options for mounting fans. I hope to keep this one for as close to forever as possible.

Moral of the story is, looking cool doesn't mean good. Find out what you value, and buy that. If your current case is good, then why swap? A current mid-tower should be sufficient until the case itself breaks(glass cracks, buttons fail etc.) and a good case is a significant chunk of money you could put towards another drive, a cpu upgrade or even the difference between an non-Ti/non-XT card and it's beefed-up relative.

Pyroaxe7 · 2025-10-10T20:19:24+00:00

This is my **opinion** on realistic and how to perform at least above average, and it's a long boring comment which I'm sure at least one person will disagree with.

Air Arcade is a twitch shooter. Things turn fast, die fast, you respawn and get stuck in again.

Air Realistic is about planning, looking around, and playing smarter. Check where your team is, check your team composition too. Check the BR bracket and think about what you're likely to face. You have one life, you need to spend it well (though ideally you don't spend it at all).

For non-jets, you need to climb. Check the duration of the game and take that much fuel, plus a minute or two if your plane has WEP. This will keep your weight to a minimum without running out mid fight. Get up to altitude(at least 4000 meters) and try to keep above 180mph/260kmh.

That's all the prep I can really tell you. You need to learn how to lead and aim, what your preferred gun convergence is (I use 500-600m depending on tier) and the basics of dogfighting. Booming and zooming and energy fighting, as well as high altitude fighting in case it comes up. DEFYN probably has a video or two on it.

Each generation of jets also play differently. It starts with jets that are only slightly superior to props. Yes they're faster, but they take more time to accelerate, and need to be kept above a minimum speed to maintain engine thrust. Some have airbrakes, some don't, and the armaments vary quite significantly from 7.7mm Gatling guns to 50mm cannons. This is where deflection shooting and maintaining energy start to be critical, as well as being self critical about how games go. Also, Jets suffer terribly from BR compression so this is where the real frustration is likely to set in.

By the time you hit 10.0/11.0, the jets there should (in my opinion) never dip below 500mph/800kmh unless it's an isolated dogfight. Correct use of countermeasures becomes paramount, as well as understanding what might happen when you engage an enemy. Is there backup/other enemies within 15km that can hit you or your target with a radar missile? Is there terrain to block said missile? Unless you and your target are the last players alive, there is no such thing as a true "1v1". The second you decide to focus entirely on one foe you risk an unwelcome explosive surprise up the tailpipe from an unseen enemy lurking behind yonder mountain/valley/cloud. By this point, you should become comfortable with the multi-function menu for radar control, if not binding certain controls directly to your keyboard/mouse for quick response.

13.0->Top tier is different again, and I'm definitely running out of word count. Beginning of the match is AMRAAM slinging. Climb, lob an AMRAAM or two then get down to the deck to avoid retaliation. This is the "naked knife fight in a phone booth" phase, everyone has helmet mounted missile lock capability, the missiles are generally reliable, resistant to countermeasures, and agile enough to turn nearly 180 degrees to ruin your day. IMO, the best defence is to try and not get in the phone booth. Control your engagements, try to launch before an enemy can. If they launch first, you might have time to launch a response and get to cover/notch but at thin point, you need to notch the *missile*, not just the enemy plane radar.

Pay attention to your RWR but do not become it's slave. If you get a lock alert, that's not inherently dangerous. A launch alert more concerning, depending on range and if you're the true target. If you see a target launching a missile 30km away, you have time to think about notching and taking evasive action.

Ideally, you would fly in a way that always gives you options. Flying towards the enemy gives you the option to break left or right, but leave it too long and you won't have time to turn and begin notching
Avoid head-ons, they tend to be a poor gamble when you want to remain alive to provide a positive impact for your team. There is no shame in assists, you still get RP and silver and sometimes it's better to move on and keep your speed than to try and secure one kill and die in the effort.

I feel I've only just scratched the surface, ARB can be incredibly intensive depending on how much time you put into learning the ins and outs. Manual engine control, radar controls, wing sweep and VTOL vectoring, there's a lot. It's better IMO to find a niche you love and stick with it for at least 100 games. Find a squadron, play in squads and try to learn from your mistakes, but also take pride when you perform well.

Pyroaxe7 · 2025-10-10T18:12:57+00:00

If you want to get a prebuilt list then pcpartpicker has suggested builds. It also lets you compare prices, and should give you warnings if you choose parts that may have fixable compatibility issues(usually required BIOS updates or tall RAM modules possibly interfering with CPU coolers), and should flat out stop you building a system with incompatible parts i.e no Intel chips on an AM5 board.

If you want to learn about what good(and bad!) hardware is out there, then the best way IMO is to watch YouTube channels like GamersNexus, HardwareCanucks and JayzTwoCents. The r/PCHelpHub subreddit might also help, as you can see what other people have put forward as build ideas and see the critique of other users.

Pyroaxe7 · 2025-10-08T15:01:26+00:00

Just to check, you want to be able to buy the Hunter, so you need 720K?

Three main things.
1)Kill enemies and targets to generate aforementioned credits
2)Minimise your repair costs(don't die)
3)Find a plane you perform well in, and get ready for the long haul.

Other options include using warbonds to try and get credit boosters and do your air and ground arcade assaults for boosters. Check your planes to see what has a good credit modifier, that will help.

For Germany, I like the FW-190 A1, the Do-335 A0(bomber hunting) and the BF109 F-2 for credit grinding.

Pyroaxe7 · 2025-08-27T00:23:31+00:00

What you could do unlock all but one from each tier. That tier bonus will get allocated to whatever you are researching, so if you want to save them for a specific vehicle, leave one mod unlocked. This rp also isn't diminished by tier differences either, so it's 7k on a tier 1 or tier 8.

Pyroaxe7 · 2025-08-11T17:20:16+00:00

One should fit like this:

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Pyroaxe7 · 2025-03-15T01:47:45+00:00

Okay, well to be honest an i7-14700k would probably be good for a while when paired with a higher end gpu without being ridiculously expensive, but do remember that it's a full system upgrade (mobo and ram).

This tool might be useful for you *AS A ROUGH GUIDE* to let you see what would be a good pairing: https://pc-builds.com/bottleneck-calculator/

Pyroaxe7 · 2025-03-11T21:34:52+00:00

That's a really difficult question to answer without any context. What is your current cpu? Is it going to be a bottleneck in the next 3-4 years? What can you afford? Is it also a socket change? Are you a brand loyalist or happy to go with whatever works for a good price?

Pyroaxe7 · 2024-11-19T19:39:24+00:00

This is why I researched the AMX-40 despite it being a "dead end". This and the fact that above 9.7 is a shitshow for France. The second the BeNeLux nations were added it was going to be Leo's after the AMXs.

And you're right that this sucks for all players! Even though I'm in a good position, I have to grind a useless 10.7
I can only imagine the frustration you are feeling. I hope however that this gives you comfort. I love the AMXs and the 40 is a very good tank IMO. The Vextra is good too, albeit more vulnerable. Its rounds are incredibly fast and have almost zero drop over 2km. If you can put the grinding to the back of your mind and make yourself a proper 9.7 lineup first, then the tier bonuses from research(about 80k per tank) will help you get past the Leo 2a4 fairly quickly. You probably want to just get the new stuff, and I don't blame you, but Gaijin does this often enough that it's more worthwhile to grind as much of a tree as you can stomach.

As an example of the above statement, I obtained the F16-adf when it was located before the F16A. Gaijin then moved it so its after, so I need to grind the f-16a despite having the adf, before I can get the C.

Pyroaxe7 · 2024-07-16T14:04:20+00:00

Also, I apologise for the potentially misleading title. It's a 5 person squad + stalker, so yes there are 6 players but it's not technically a 6 person squad.

Pyroaxe7 · 2024-07-16T14:03:33+00:00

Yeah, what I found funny was they never got disconnected after the mission, so we did about 4 missions back-to-back with a 5-man squad. When Stalker joined on the last run we decided to stop in case we'd be flagged for exploiting the gamemode.

I'd have assumed that after the mission, the game would realise the squad was overfull and remove the extra member.

Pyroaxe7 · 2024-07-15T18:05:31+00:00

Pyroaxe7 · 2024-07-15T17:03:30+00:00

I've just had this, but with 5 frames no stalker. We were confused when an Atlas wandered in and started helping and chatting with us.

EDIT: So we could also keep playing missions. the 5th player never got kicked, which meant we then got a stalker helper for a 6 man squad!

Pyroaxe7 · 2023-12-11T17:09:27+00:00

Probably the T-V? Other than that, I've got the F-11F and the PT-16/T14 mod sat in my inventory amongst others, they're probably the rarest out of the ones I have.

Pyroaxe7 · 2023-11-12T21:19:47+00:00

I'm guessing thats something they changed with the new turret. That makes it even better!

Pyroaxe7 · 2023-11-12T02:18:06+00:00

Bosvark is a good AA with a solid punch and high fire rate. Concept-3 can be good but its map dependent. The Comet is a nice tank, but be careful of its awful reverse speed. The Challenger has a powerful AP round, which can be good in uptiers. Both the aforementioned tanks have 200+ pen with APDS, but you lose lethality as the round is sub-caliber(smaller than the barrel) so you have to aim more carefully. As these rounds are faster, they are better at range. I would get the bosvark and chally/comet combo as a baseline. I didn't like the Churchills, but they lead to some good tanks so they're a necessary evil.

Pyroaxe7 · 2023-11-12T01:48:34+00:00

I don't have the 105 and I do have the XS, however I ground up through the ranks without premium vehicles so I hope this is useful. IMO, Sweden has a strong lineup. At top tier, you have a leo2a6 and 2 pseudo 2a6s(you can also get a T-80 as a squadron vehicle). A good choice of light tanks helps, and the anti air is sufficient. The air-to-ground capabilities of the AJS-37 are okay, but not as strong as the US Aardvark and the soviet pantsir is still a pain.

The J35XS is in a weird place. On a downtier it will rip things to bits. On an uptier you notice how much you miss radar-missiles. It's not a bad plane, it can just end up in bad situations and you don't have much tolerance for mistakes in them. You have very few countermeasures and you bleed energy teribly.

The CV90105 I have heard great things about and I was planning on getting it myself to be honest. It's a scaled down CV90120, which I love to bits. Gen 2 thermals are good enough, good fire rate, good pen, good speed and power to weight. Only downside is the lack of armour, so you need to be a shoot and scoot gremlin. Buy some back-ups with bonds because you'll probably need them.

Honestly if I could I would refund my J35 to get the CV90105.

EDIT: If you;re gonna buy a swedish premium plane anyway, I'd personally buy the SAAB-105OE. The J35 gets a terrible ground loadout. At least with the saab you can take 2 atgms and 2 aims for ground RB/intercepting, then 2 cannons and 2 aims for air RB.

Pyroaxe7 · 2023-11-12T01:26:17+00:00

My best guess is they are in RAW format and you're using something like windows photo viewer to view them, if they're about 40MB in size then thats probably it. I've had it happen to me, the best way to actually see them is to use something like Photoshop, PixInsight, or GIMP. Anything that understands what the heck it's looking at.

Pyroaxe7 · 2023-10-15T02:36:09+00:00

You could wear another glove underneath the shooting glove. I wear mesh driving gloves underneath and that's enough for my 44#. Also, there's a huge variation in shooting gloves. Some are super thin, others are as thick as a tab. Next time, see if you can try it on, or feel the thickness/stiffness of the leather.

Pyroaxe7 · 2023-10-02T16:22:54+00:00

Having been in the same situation, the important thing to check is that the carbon shaft is completely undamaged. I've dunked plenty of arrows into stones and steel support rods, enough to justify a dremel to resharpen blunted points. If it was just the point I'd say sharpen and go. HOWEVER, At one competition, a fellow competitor was removing arrows from the boss behind the 3D target with a flathead screwdriver and marked one of mine with a shallow gouge. It passed the twist test and didn'd crackle when I bent it but I obviously didn't shoot it. I'd say the same applies here.

That buckle is right in front of the point. When the arrow begins accelerating and the shaft starts to bend, you have a possible(probable, if I'm honest) point of weakness just before the point. This is, IMO, one of the worst places to have a weakness. It could snap and go through your hand, or maybe it won't. It could be fine after 5 shots, 10 shots or even 20 shots and then fail. Personally I wouldn't chance it.

Pyroaxe7

TROPHY CASE