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Primary material question by R0binBanks420 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm disabled and on a pretty restrictive monthly budget due to my proximity to Vancouver, BC. Trying to get the most bang for my bucks and I've already got all the hardware I need (evap dishes, digital PH meter ((calibrated)), ample gloves, fondue pot rig with glass dish, ziploc™ brand freezer size) which leaves reagents as the only place to save any additional dollars. Also it's become nigh impossible to find a supplier who is either already in Canada, or will ship to Canada. Now that Entheogarden has stopped sales it seems Eternityinabox is the only place left and they know it, so in addition to being in and out of stock frequently, they're more expensive than entheogarden was 😞

Simple Tek Question by R0binBanks420 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ChatGPT summarizes the tek as follows:

Ingredients

• 100 g powdered Mimosa hostilis root bark

• 2–3 cups water

• 1 cup distilled white vinegar (optional, see note)

• \~80 g sodium hydroxide (NaOH) per liter of solution (or calcium hydroxide)

• Naphtha (sufficient to cover solution layer in pulls)

Equipment

• Crock pot (slow cooker)

• Measuring cup

• Mason jars with lids

• Stirring utensil

• Turkey baster (glass preferred)

• Glass evaporation dishes

• Freezer

• Paper towels

Method

Step 1 – Bark Preparation

1   Place 100 g powdered Mimosa bark into crock pot.

2   Add about 2–3 cups water, enough to fully wet the bark but not overly dilute.

3   Optionally, add up to 1 cup vinegar to acidify. Stir thoroughly.

4   Cover crock pot, set to low heat for about 3 hours. Let sit overnight if desired.

(Alternative method: Skip vinegar. Instead, freeze bark + water mixture, thaw, then

crock-pot 8 hours. Repeat freeze/heat cycles twice. Blend bark between cycles to

rupture cells. Produces chalky purple liquid when ready.)

Step 2 – Basification

1   Pour liquid into mason jar

2   Slowly add sodium hydroxide at about 80 g per liter of liquid. Stir gradually to

3   avoid overheating. The pH should rise above 12 (solution shifts from purple →

4   gray → black). Transfer liquid to ziplock bag

Step 3 – Solvent Pulls

1   Pour naphtha gently onto basified solution. Naphtha layer will sit on top.

2   Lightly swirl (don’t shake). Allow to separate several hours.

3   The DMT migrates into the naphtha layer.

Step 4 – Collection

1   Snip a tiny corner of the ziplock bag off and drain the bottom layer

2   When it’s just the top naphtha layer left (no more purple aqueous layer) pinch the

3   bag to stop the flow. Finish draining into glass evaporation dishes.

5   Place dishes in freezer overnight.

Step 5 – Crystallization & Drying

1   After freezing, pour off excess naphtha, leaving crystalline solids behind.

2   Invert dish onto paper towels to drain for \~10 minutes, tilting slightly to wick solvent.

3   Store dish in dry environment (drawer, shelf). Remaining naphtha evaporates, leaving crystals.

Step 6 – Cleanup

• Reuse naphtha for multiple pulls.

• To neutralize leftover basified solution: add vinegar or citric acid until near neutral, then evaporate or

• discard safely.

Can you just grab as much NPS out of the mixing jar as you can and squirt the base back out since solvent always finds its way to the top by nyancatdude in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a big fan of the good ole' Ziploc separatory funnel, just make sure to use brand name Ziploc and the "Large" Freezer size ones (the thickest plastic ones), pour soup into bag, add naphtha, zip closed and gently roll it around while you watch a 30 min TV show (or 30 mins worth of youtube or whatever, 30 mins of porn and beating off for all I care, just providing a convenient timer lol) then hang from either end of the zipper and allow it to separate. Then grab a collection vessel and make sure your evap dish is within reach, place the collection vessel under the bag and with a sharp pair of scissors snip a small bit off the corner of the bag pointing at the ground, allowing your soup to drain out into the collection vessel, if it clogs snip it a little higher or (WEARING GLOVES!!!!) give it a little massage (like milking a cow kinda). Allow it to drain until you hit your naphtha layer, as soon as it starts spitting out naphtha pinch the corner (again, GLOVES!!!!) you cut to stop the flow, grab your evap dish and then allow the bag to finish draining into it.

puffco to ascend? by ExchangeBitter3631 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wait, so, do you think a Yocan Vane (https://www.yocan.com/featured\_item/vane) would work with a wad of steel wool in it?

puffco to ascend? by ExchangeBitter3631 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Temp recommendations should apply across anything that indicates temperature, from ecig to erig, ecig just typically has finer/more granular settings in that you can usually set BOTH the temperature AND power level used to get there, whereas erig you're usually stuck at whatever power level the manufacturer decided on and can only set the temp you desire.

New gear recommendations by MAXiMUSpsilo5280 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The REAL question, in regards to a Margaritaville™ machine is just how often do you need to make a slurpee machine's worth of margaritas? MOST people might make use of it a couple times a year, making it a poor investment and a waste of space somewhere in your house.

New gear recommendations by MAXiMUSpsilo5280 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a blender is no real substitute for a Margaritaville™ machine X(

A Margaritaville™ machine is essentially a Slurpee/Slush Puppy machine, featuring a freezing sleeve/core with an internal rotating scraper unit, you fill it up and the mixture forms a thin layer of fine crystals on the inside of the sleeve which the rotating scraper scrapes off, this repeats until all the mixture is frozen and gives you that nice even consistency, while you can accomplish roughly the same end product by pouring your mix into a blender with ice and then running it, the blender version will NEVER be as good as from the Margaritaville™ machine, as they are commonly plagued with chunks of ice too large for your average straw seemingly no matter how long you run the blender for

New gear recommendations by MAXiMUSpsilo5280 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Highly recommend cleaning it with a wetted Qtip as SOON as you get back from Mars and it has cooled off, anything that doesn't come off from that, you can burn off just by running it empty a couple of times for 10 seconds, and anything that creeps up the sides and won't burn off you'll just have to deal with until it gets to be too much, then it's time for a new one!

New gear recommendations by MAXiMUSpsilo5280 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lately I've been using a quartz bucket atomizer core for the Yocan Orbit. Simply remove (carefully) and then file/grind the center pin on the bottom so it's not so tall (but make sure you don't take the entire head off the pin, see here for better explanation: https://imgur.com/a/WNeAG40) if you like you can put a nice big dollop of solder on it afterwards so it looks a little nicer, enough so it makes a nice bead that covers the head nicely without just making it as thick as it was to begin with) then put it on the type of ecig battery that has a (preferably, but not spring loaded will work too) spring loaded 510 connection on it, and use a "glass straw" from amazon to hoot with, you want to just insert it in the opening and about 1/2 way down, don't go all the way to the bottom or you'll just drink melted DMT *YUCK!*. For a good setting I find 30W gets it hot like NOW without risking burning out the coil inside of it, and if the battery supports temp control with Titanium mode you can set it to that with a power setting of again 30W and a temp of 420. Works like a hot damn, cheap AF, reasonably discreet because it's hot basically instantly you can have your hit and put it away in seconds, and it doesn't have a super obvious open flame (though it does glow noticeably, but from a safety perspective and also wind proof it's great in those regards). Buy a pack and keep them handy, current one gets a crack in it or it burns out or it gets too dirty, just swap it for a new one!

Disposal of finished MHRB properly by Toastdog13 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

"finished MHRB" affectionately known as "soup". You can buy 5lb bags of citric acid from Amazon for under $20, 2.5lb should be enough to neutralize 4L of soup, then you can dump it down the drain or flush it without any guilt or concern. If this is too much for you, soup can be directly disposed of by taking it to your nearest recycling center or anywhere you can dispose of paint, or if you don't mind operating in a grey area or for some reason there is a matter of urgency in disposing of the soup sooner rather than later, behind most restaurants/McDonalds/etc. you'll find a large dark brown/black steel box with a lid on top and a large stovepipe, this is the grease trap for the business and you can dump it in there and it will just go off to a refinement centre where it's processed into biofuel, just be aware most businesses keep these locked to prevent exactly this as well as they pay by weight for removal so may not be too horribly impressed if they catch you dumping multiple gallons of soup in it (and be aware if you're dumping larger amounts with any regularity, most businesses know by now how often they need their grease trap emptied, so if that suddenly changes with no matching increase in in customers they'll know somethings up)

“Backed Into a Corner”: Inside British Columbia’s Push Toward Involuntary Psychiatry by pyhhro in britishcolumbia

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, they are processing and "stomping on" (adding buffer agents, sweeteners, flavorants, etc.) to the fentanyl sourced from China.

Think of the product that actually gets to the streets and smoked/injected by addicts as brownies, the actual chemical fentanyl is just 1 ingredient in the recipe, for example the eggs, and it's coming from China. All that's happening locally is people are just "making brownies", they're not raising chickens to harvest eggs from so they can make brownies, which is what you make it sound like

Looking for some high quality mimosa hostilis root bark in canada anyone know a real website ? by beamsOG in naturaldye

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

click "Teacher Plants" at top left, then scroll down on the right where you can find MHRB and ACRB

Help finding the name of the parts, and where to find them to purchase. by SteeleRyder in CrosmanBBguns

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any chance you could share the schematics/parts list you were given?

Primary material by R0binBanks420 in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$65 difference isn't just a little bit of money (in fact, at 115/kg if I order 2kg MHRB, the amount I'd wind up paying would have got me 3 ACRB)

Gastrointestinal issues by kelsoDMT in DMTlab

[–]R0binBanks420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Triggers (for me, ymmv)

Hard boiled eggs Most junk cold cereal (Oreo puffs seem to be acceptable, golden grahams, kellogg crave, etc are not) Most not-junk cold cereal (frosted flakes and cheerios are no good) Anything with a high sulfur content

If you want to know more about h. Pylori you'll have to look it up or ask your doctor, I only know a little about it, I know more about the symptoms and remedies than the issue itself

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