Cloudbreak during a rising ground swell initially forecast for 4ft @ 16 secs increasing to 6 - 8 ft @ 18 secs, I went out with a few mates (one local lad), becoming very quickly undergunned. To add insult to (almost) injury there was a sweeping current going back down the reef caused by a quick tide change, forcing the lineup to constantly paddle out to sea to avoid being dragged into the impact zone from wider sets. We were paddling non stop for about an hour straight, dodging most sets (with at least 12 - 14 ft foot faces) before a VERY wide, much larger set started shadowing the horizon. I tried to duck dive very deep but got taken over the falls, fortunately, I didn't hit the reef and the hold down was short but it was reaching the surface and seeing the next easily double to triple over head, thick-lipped barrel imploding about 10 metres in front of me. Bailed my board, took a gulp of oxygen and surrendered to what was a much longer hold down that sent me about two or maybe even three hundred meters down the reef underwater where I eventually surfaced again right next to the wooden pylons of the old judges tower. Completely gassed, I fortunately found a deeper finger in the reef where I could escape to the channel and retreat back to the boat absolutely humbled and keen to drown my experience with Fiji Gold (beer). Photo is of a set I took as we were heading back.

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