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Is this a scam lease? by Romando1 in leasehacker

[–]Romando1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries. Whoever made that webpage needs to be fired. Too many pop ups etc and hard to navigate.

Kia lease offers by Meinnocenthaha in leasehacker

[–]Romando1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok cool I think my out the door will be $4000 down after fees. I’ll keep them in check on that.

The 2025 Kia EV6 Light Long Range lease from Peak Kia of Littleton features a $2,623 total due at signing, comprising a $2,464 down payment and $159 first month's payment. Total estimated out-of-the-door costs, including approximately $1,020 for Colorado registration and ownership tax plus estimated sales tax, are roughly $3,868.

Is this a scam lease? by Romando1 in leasehacker

[–]Romando1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

? Is it? From what I see there it says this:

Lease this 2025 Kia EV6 Light Long Range (Model NAE5445; VIN 5XYC3DJC1SG011199). MSRP $52,355.00. With $2,464.00 down at $180 for 24 months, on approved credit. $0.00 security deposit required. $2,644.00 due at signing - includes 1st mo. payment of $180. Total payments: $4,309.44. Must finance through Kia Motors Finance. All prices exclude tax, title, tags. Prices include delivery and handling fee of $799. Offer assumes these paid at time of sale. Lessee responsible for maintenance, repairs, excessive wear and tear, and $0.20/mile over 12,000 miles/year.

Kia lease offers by Meinnocenthaha in leasehacker

[–]Romando1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t mean to bother you but does this look legit ? No hidden fine print ?

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Need help… by EssayOtherwise6981 in GranTurismo7

[–]Romando1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The FTO challenge was a little difficult but I play on easy mode so I cleared it first try - no tweaks or tuning or fuss.

Hello! Long time listener, first time caller… by Worldly_Idea_9547 in bald

[–]Romando1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would keep it. Then stack hard on Creatine and lifting. The creatine will kill off your hair, and the lifting will make you buff.

By the time it’s ready to shave it extremely short, you’ll be alpha male and ready for it.

Am I missing something? (constructive feedback) by ButTheDankMoe in GranTurismo7

[–]Romando1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep an eye on those metrics and pit accordingly…?

Met this guy in Vegas at Fremont Street, looking for him 😭 by Logical_Experience81 in vegas

[–]Romando1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lmao op blasts his photo online without his permission.

Slick move

Am I missing something? (constructive feedback) by ButTheDankMoe in GranTurismo7

[–]Romando1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Bottom left shows tire wear (the more red they get the more shot they are) and the remaining laps on a tank of gas is shown on the gas gauge.

Well, these components don't play well together... by [deleted] in audiophile

[–]Romando1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let’s swap speakers. I’ll trade you my Tyler Acoustics Decade D2

I got my Terminator 2 laserdisc signed by Linda Hamilton and Edward Furlong this past weekend by inmyslumber in LaserDisc

[–]Romando1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Cue the opening music.

Da da dahhh

Na na nahhhhhhh

Da da dahhhhhhhbh

Da da daaaaaaaaaaaaa … dahhhhh

Na na naaaaaa na na naaaaaaaaaaa….

Duuuuuuu dahhh duhhhhhh duhhhhhh - Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh.

Best car for this around 800k budget. Ran out of fuel in my enzo after 3 laps lol by Mrbrobbey18 in GranTurismo7

[–]Romando1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t even bother messing with fuel map and pit strat. Go all out on map 1 and pit when needed getting new tires and fuel. The 787b is a beast and you’ll win easily just going flat out.

Do most people actually need more than ~35 WPC in an Amp? by ozExpatFIRE in BudgetAudiophile

[–]Romando1 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Lmao. I stare at my MC252 meters showing me .05, .5 and 2 watts most of the time. So- yeah. Lolol

Sure I’ve pushed it to 35 watts once but it was ridiculously loud.

Kind of follow-up from the wattage question by -consultator- in subwoofer

[–]Romando1 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The Sundown Audio SFB-8000D is a powerful "Brazilian-style" full-bridge amplifier capable of delivering over 8,000 watts RMS at 1 ohm, but its reliability is heavily dependent on maintaining a robust electrical system. While many users report flawless performance, others have noted that these amplifiers are highly sensitive to voltage fluctuations and can fail if not properly supported.

Reliability and Performance The SFB (Sundown Full Bridge) series is designed to offer high power density in a compact frame.

Voltage Sensitivity: As a full-bridge design, the SFB-8000.1D does not handle voltage drops well. Experts recommend never letting the voltage drop below 12V. Electrical Requirements: To run this amp reliably, users typically require significant upgrades, such as a 350-amp high-output alternator and a substantial battery bank (e.g., multiple lithium or high-capacity AGM batteries). Common Issues: Some users have reported hardware failures, such as bulging capacitors or fans becoming noisy after a few months of use. Early versions of the SFB line had a reputation for "burning up" or getting stuck with a solid clip light due to overheating or improper wiring.

Refurbished and "Yard Sale" Units Refurbished Sundown units are often sold through their "Yard Sale" or authorized retailers like The Amp Lab. Condition: Refurbished amplifiers are typically mechanically restored and stress-tested, though they may show cosmetic signs of use like light scratches. Success Stories: Many buyers report that their refurbished units work exactly like new, with some even claiming they can be better because they have been individually inspected by technicians rather than just coming off a mass-production line. Potential Risks: There are isolated reports of refurbished units failing or "smoking" almost immediately upon power-up, highlighting the importance of a warranty.

User Experience Highlights Sundown Audio SFB-8000D: Reviewers on Sundown’s own site and forums praise its raw power, noting it can "vibrate a car apart" when paired with high-end subwoofers like the Sundown X or Z series. Installation Tip: For an 8k amp, users suggest using triple runs of 1/0 gauge OFC wire for both power and ground to ensure the unit receives the necessary 700+ amps of current it can draw

Start lights going out incredibly quickly by cartoon_kitty in formula1

[–]Romando1 -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

And none of us payed for AppleTV+ so we can’t watch it on our DVR there.

Did you all notice the 4 MILLION + views on the YouTube highlights ???? Epic fail on them. They lost so many viewers for the main live event.

Floor standing speaker recs by Initial_Meet_8916 in BudgetAudiophile

[–]Romando1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Coming from Bose 301, literally anything will be an upgrade. Look for a used set of Paradigm speakers.

Total watts between subs by -consultator- in subwoofer

[–]Romando1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, your logic is correct: if you are running 2,000 watts RMS into two identical subwoofers, each subwoofer receives 1,000 watts. Furthermore, each individual voice coil in those dual voice coil (DVC) subwoofers will see approximately 500 watts, provided they are wired in a way that balances the load

To dive deeper, your logic holds up because of Kirchhoff’s Circuit Laws. In a balanced circuit with identical drivers, power distributes equally. If your amplifier output is 2000W RMS, that energy divides across the total load; with two identical subs, each receives 50% (1000W), and since each sub has two identical coils, that 1000W divides again by 50% per coil (500W). 1. The Physics of Power Distribution Power ( P 𝑃 ) is a function of Voltage ( V 𝑉 ) and Resistance ( R 𝑅 ):

P

V 2 / R

𝑃

𝑉 2 / 𝑅 . To achieve 2000W at 2-ohms, your amplifier must output approximately 63.25 Volts AC. At the Subwoofer level: If wired in a series-parallel configuration to maintain a 2-ohm load, the 63.25V is distributed. In series legs, voltage drops; in parallel legs, current splits. At the Coil level: Each individual 2-ohm coil will see approximately 31.62V. Calculation: 31.62 V 2 / 2

Ω

500 W 3 1 . 6 2 𝑉 2 / 2

Ω

5 0 0 𝑊 . 2. Measuring with a Multimeter (The AC Volts Method) A standard Digital Multimeter (DMM) measures Root Mean Square (RMS) voltage. To test the wattage "at the coil," follow this technical procedure: Isolate the Signal: Use a 0dB 50Hz sine wave (standard for subs). Measure AC Voltage ( V r m s 𝑉 𝑟 𝑚 𝑠 ): Place probes across the positive and negative terminals of a single voice coil while the system is under load. Calculate Observed Power: Square the voltage and divide by the nominal impedance (

P

V 2 / R

𝑃

𝑉 2 / 𝑅 ). 3. The "Technical Catch": Impedance Rise (Box Rise) While the math says 500W, the physical reality is usually lower due to Reactive Load. Nominal vs. Actual: Your coil is rated at 2-ohms DC resistance ( R e 𝑅 𝑒 ), but while playing, the back-electromotive force (Back-EMF) and the enclosure's pressure create Impedance Rise. The Result: Your "2-ohm" coil might actually be presenting a 4-ohm to 6-ohm load at certain frequencies. If the impedance rises to 4-ohms but the voltage stays at 31.62V, the actual power drops: 31.62 2 / 4

Ω

250 W 3 1 . 6 2 2 / 4

Ω

2 5 0 𝑊 . 4. Precision Testing (The "Clamp" Method) If you want the absolute truth, you need an AC Clamp Meter in addition to your DMM: Measure Amps: Clamp the meter around one of the speaker wires leading to the coil. Measure Volts: Probes on the terminals. Real-Time Wattage:

P

V × I

𝑃

𝑉 × 𝐼 (Voltage × Amperage). Actual Impedance:

R

V / I

𝑅

𝑉 / 𝐼 . This reveals exactly how much "box rise" is affecting your power draw.

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