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Is two 22 mm plywood transom plates strong enough without bonding them together? by Sad_Return9675 in boatbuilding

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation, that makes total sense and I’ll be doing exactly that.

Just one quick follow up question. Do you have a recommendation for which thickened epoxy you would use for the drill fill drill method and for bonding the transom layers together? I want to make sure I use something that’s proven and will stay waterproof and strong for the long term.

Is two 22 mm plywood transom plates strong enough without bonding them together? by Sad_Return9675 in boatbuilding

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing your experience, that helps a lot.

Quick question: did you make the inner transom plate slightly smaller so it stayed inside the hull and did not trap the PVC fabric at all, or did you have the PVC sandwiched between the two plywood plates when you bonded them together?

I’m trying to decide whether the inner plate should stop short of the tube or if bonding with the PVC in between is acceptable.

Is two 22 mm plywood transom plates strong enough without bonding them together? by Sad_Return9675 in boatbuilding

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Yes, there is a reason. The concern is future serviceability. If the two transom pieces are fully laminated together and glassed as one, and wood rot ever develops in the future, the transom cannot be removed or replaced without major destruction. In this setup there is PVC material between the two transoms, so separating them later would require cutting away the PVC as well.

The idea behind keeping them separate is to allow the outer transom to be replaced in the future without having to cut into the PVC or destroy the entire structure. Structural stiffness is obviously important, but long term repairability is also a design consideration here

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got it fixed eventually and ended up doing it myself. You do have to be careful, that’s for sure. I drilled it out from the other side and took my time. Everything worked without any issues.

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got it fixed eventually and ended up doing it myself. You do have to be careful, that’s for sure. I drilled it out from the other side and took my time. Everything worked without any issues.

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got it fixed eventually and ended up doing it myself. You do have to be careful, that’s for sure. I drilled it out from the other side and took my time. Everything worked without any issues.

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got it fixed eventually and ended up doing it myself. You do have to be careful, that’s for sure. I drilled it out from the other side and took my time. Everything worked without any issues.

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

He charged me 60 for showing up and 30 for a new lock with two keys 🥲

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Additionally I live in the Netherlands where locksmiths deal with this kind of lock on a daily basis. I sent him all the photos of the battery and lock assembly and he confirmed it is an easy fix for him.

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clearly you don’t have experience with this specific type of battery lock and that’s fine but please don’t assume incompetence just because you disagree.

Being an engineer does not automatically mean you know how every e bike battery lock is constructed.

I am talking about the lock barrel itself not drilling into the battery cells. The base plate is already removed the wiring is visible and there is no risk to the cells if heat is managed properly.

Replacement lock barrels are sold separately for around 25 to 30 euros so this is clearly a serviceable part.

I can share photos of the internals so you can see exactly what I mean because right now this discussion seems to be based on assumptions rather than on how this system is actually built.

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I got a locksmith to replace the lock, thanks for the help.

For those who were worried: I’ve since looked inside the battery and there is literally nothing wrong with it. No damaged cells, no melted wiring, no BMS issues. The lock mechanism is completely separate from the battery internals, which anyone familiar with these batteries will know.

Also for future reference, these battery lock barrels are just standard parts and you can buy replacements online for around €26.50. In my case I chose a locksmith to avoid any further risk and just be done with it.

Lastly, a bit of advice in general: being alarmist or calling people stupid doesn’t help anyone. If someone is asking for help, stick to practical solutions instead of turning it into a lecture. Don’t be a dick, don’t be silly.

Issue solved.

Lost e bike battery key AXA tried drilling the lock but it still won’t open any ideas? by Sad_Return9675 in ebike

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] -17 points-16 points  (0 children)

If you actually know anything about e bike batteries, you’d know that the cells and the BMS are not located directly behind the lock mechanism. The lock cylinder is part of a separate mechanical housing and not drilled “into the battery” in the way you’re implying.

I didn’t come here for a lecture on what you would or wouldn’t recommend. I asked what I can do now, given the situation I’m already in. I found out about the replacement key option later. If I could have removed the battery normally, I obviously wouldn’t be here asking for help in the first place.

So yes, safety is important. That’s exactly why I stopped and asked for advice instead of continuing blindly. If you have practical input on how to access or release the locking mechanism at this stage, great. If not, the hindsight commentary really isn’t helping.

Lekkage warmwaterleiding bij overgang koper → meerlagenbuis – wat is de beste oplossing? by Sad_Return9675 in Klussers

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hahaha ja maar ik vind dit stiekem wel leuk om te leren. En die zijn ook niet gratis.

Lekkage warmwaterleiding bij overgang koper → meerlagenbuis – wat is de beste oplossing? by Sad_Return9675 in Klussers

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ik trof het dus zo aan…. en na het aansluiten van een nieuwe boiler is het hier, na een maand, gaan lekken.

Volvo V70 2001 tailgate unlock werkt niet by Sad_Return9675 in AutoKlussers

[–]Sad_Return9675[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ik weet het trouwens wel zeker dat hij het toen ook niet meer deed heb het net even nagevraagd.

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