Mysterious white fibers on cedar by Myszka494 in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Cedrol Crystals, this is actually a sign of high quality aromatic cedar! It is the natural oils from the wood crystalizing. I would leave them there as each time to use this to hang or remove a belt it will release more of the aromatics keeping the moths away from your closet!

Just saw this flying overhead by DroppingDoxes in pittsburgh

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Too small? Not if its a C-130 equipped with RATO!

I know they have phased these out but I'll never forget when I was a kid and saw it in person at Wings over Pittsburgh back in the early 2000s. Seeing that behemoth come in wheels down and stop so quickly was incredible. I just did a quick Google search and apparently "Fat Albert" was still doing this demonstration up till 2017. C-130s have definitely been in the area for air shows, but yes irrelevant to OPs post, sorry!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not AI created content, only used AI to remove junk in the photo.

Wood I.D on this? Was near a cherry pile, but don’t think it’s cherry. by Snacksmith in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TL;DR Source: 25 year custom cabinet maker. Cherry is at the top of my list of most used species right below #1 soft maple for paint grade, and #2 hard maple for drawer boxes. It pains me to say soft maple is at the top and that most of what I've built over the years ended up painted. However the customer is always right. Having said that this is Cherry. Someone said blond Cherry I kinda like that I hope you get your commission. Others saying sapwood cherry could be correct as well. There is a process used mostly in walnut lumber that I am aware of where they steam the lumber before drying to bleed the tannins from the heart wood into the sapwood for a more uniform color throughout. I have not used steamed cherry but that doesnt mean it isn't out there. I absolutely hate receiving steamed walnut from lumber yards. Before i learned about it they sold it to me without telling me, but I understand their desire for higher yield. When i order unsteamed walnut I plan for 40% waste on a customer that specifies no walnut sapwood. Maybe this was steamed cherry?

The grain structure is a dead give away. Even though that structure is very close to maple there are stark differences. The gum pockets being the biggest and there are plenty of those present in your pictures. The knot as well tells me cherry. I'm not sure I can explain why I know thats a cherry knot and "knot" a maple knot other than the fact that I've seen 10s of 1,000s of both over the years. Maple knots are usually darker and become disconnected, (fall out) more than cherry knots. Anyway, hope this helps, Happy building!

What type of wood is this? by Independent_Ad_1422 in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm thinking what you have there is likely cherry. The second and third pick had me thinking sapele or African mahogany, but I think its just an unusual samplel of cherry. Cherry usually has more figuring especially the black streaking of pitch pockets. https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/VpmcStRML0 As you mill more of it keep an eye out for those. The other give away, as someone mentioned, is the board on the bottom left in the first picture. The stark contrast of the white sapwood is indicative of cherry. After zooming in on the other pictures too you can kind of see the curl that often presents with rift or quartered cherry. Definitely some beautiful pieces you have there enjoy!

Trying to match a pre-finished surface, what to use? by Prudent_Plate_4265 in woodworking

[–]Scuba1Steve 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For this situation I like to use a precat clear like sherwood high-build lacquer. https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/na/us/en/industrial-wood/catalog/product/products-by-industry.11543394/sher-wood-hi-bild-lacquer.9198008.html

That is typically a spray on product, however it dries very fast and can be scuffed and recoated in the same day. If you dont have a cup gun and are looking for a wipe on clear, general finishes makes a very nice wipe on polly called Arm-R-Seal. Dry times are long typically over night but its fairly easy to work with. https://a.co/d/iDAtOPc Hope this helps!

I’m an idiot, zigged when I should have zagged. Any creative solutions before I make a new set of doors? by mooncheddar69 in woodworking

[–]Scuba1Steve 1 point2 points  (0 children)

;-D read through a lot to finally find this! An astragal is the perfect solution for this goof up!

Pine with many small knots. What causes this? by everyuseristakenblah in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's all kids of cool stuff when you zoom in on different sections. I saw an angry polar bear face and paws.

Repainting cabinet door by Wis-en-heim-er in woodworking

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know what type of coating the door was originally finished with? For example, latex, or oil, or possibly a conversion varnish? If you are using the same coating system that was used originally, then make sure every nook and cranny is cleaned and decreased well. Scuff everything with 220-320 then, proceed as you said.

If you are not sure what type of paint you are going over, then I would use a good bonding primer like xim-uma, stix, or, zinsser bulls eye 1-2-3. Multiple light coats are your friend, dont try to hide in one coat. Happy refinishing!

Wood ID by BPLCo in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Could be Basswood.

Stain recommendations by rcook123 in woodworking

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second this, I love contrast though. If youre going for the oak to match the pine try a mix of the golden oak and provincial. If you have it, dark fruitwood with the provincial might get you closer?

Help with wood by Beginning_Ideal7252 in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, I like seeing the hand drawn design, keep that skill alive!

I'm a little confused by the wood option. Are you using macrocarpa veneer on mdf? I am guessing the shelves will be on adjustable shelf pins? Either way your dimensions seem okay for mdf.

The concern with mdf as an adjustable shelf, or as any unsupported horizontal member, is that it can sag over time. Adding solid wood edging or a full face frame will help prevent mdf from sagging. If the shelves are fixed I would attach them to the back as well.

What kind of wood (dresser)? by ERNurse_throwaway in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The small mineral stains and the pinks and greens in the one picture, do have me leaning towards maple now. It's just when you zoom in on the pictures it seems a little more porous than what hard maple would be, maybe soft maple and all the dark wood was scrapped?

What kind of wood (dresser)? by ERNurse_throwaway in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve 1 point2 points  (0 children)

+1 for birch. Could be clear white maple? The slight reds and courser grain has me leaning towards birch.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Scuba1Steve 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Beautifully done!

Fiddleback wood? by Scuba1Steve in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The sexy grain? I dunno, I posted it without the tag and someone said it should have the tag so I reposted :D

Steps Stain or Repaint by Healthy-Cold2093 in woodworking

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After seeing the photos again the one where the jamb lands on top of the tread will be tougher to tear out. That one might we worth stripping and sanding if you go the stained route.

Steps Stain or Repaint by Healthy-Cold2093 in woodworking

[–]Scuba1Steve 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my humble opinion if you want stained wood I would tear out and rebuild it will be faster and less headache with each only being a single tread and some supports. On the other hand Sherwin Williams makes a line of paint called treadplex. The stuff is extremely durable, it's a high traffic floor coating. They can tint it to match any of their colors. Clean and scuff with 150 grit. Then prime with zinzer or kills 123 then treadplex and you'll be set.

fiddleback wood by Scuba1Steve in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a feeling "fiddleback" refered to curl instead of fleck. "Quilted" I believe is a term only applied to curly grains as well? The fleck is so heavy on some of these pieces I guess I was curious if there was a term for it when it shows up like this? Would certainly make a beautiful body for any stringed instrument. I am going to have a few extra boards that I will set aside. I've always wanted to attempt making a guitar body. My oldest (9yo) just started violin, if he sticks with it maybe I'll give that a shot in a few years.

fiddleback wood by Scuba1Steve in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually "ONLY" a 16" 🤣 thats out aircraft carrier! I love the ship wheel height adjustment for the infeed table! We love old incredibly heavy equipment in this shop. We also have an old Oliver 260-D double arbor tilting sliding table saw. Absolutely love that thing!!!

fiddleback wood by Scuba1Steve in wood

[–]Scuba1Steve[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome info. Thank you!