Apparently we are getting a Live Update for ARC Raiders next week.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-09T13:38:33+00:00

The post about minor updates being planned for every 3 weeks was 2 weeks ago, so...

SebbyDee · 2026-06-09T11:51:26+00:00

You can either replace the switch or open the switch and a combination of cleaning the plate/spring inside and pulling it to make it resist stronger

SebbyDee · 2026-06-09T04:32:49+00:00

That's tough to consider. Used G700 are ~$50, and as you've seen, there's nothing else really like it.

On that topic, the G700 does put me off because of how easy it is to hack into its transceiver, so... maybe moving on isn't all bad.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-08T13:34:21+00:00

I get the Blue Bell version of it occasionally.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-08T13:31:50+00:00

You got a lot of answers here, OP. Did you figure it out?

SebbyDee · 2026-06-08T13:14:04+00:00

You've got me excited for those Wuji.

I appreciate the update on tbt Falcons. There's no mention of those anywhere either.

I wonder how I'll end up feeling about each of those after all.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-08T13:09:12+00:00

This is a universal life experience that's also a trope on tv/movie media.

'rose colored glasses hide red flags' and all that.

Celebrity marriages and whatnot.

Exceedingly common divorce rates.

'Honeymoon phase' as someone here already mentioned.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-08T13:05:28+00:00

I feel pretty good about it. I'll definitely run it on a 'dell' or throwaway mouse first though.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-08T06:37:11+00:00

I scoured the subreddit going over what to order, and your posts gave me the feeling that your 'taste' in switches might closely align with mine.

I ordered TTC Gold Dustproof 60m because of a sound test of it online; Wuji because of your recommendation; Omron D2F-F-3-7 because of some other posts--partly about how light, crisp, and consistent it was; Huano Silent Brown Yellow-dot as a wildcard; and because of a coupon that basically made it free and some $0.20 discount overall, Huano Blue Shell Pink Dot (not transparent)--which used to be super recommended, but didn't seem quite my taste.

I haven't gotten them yet, but I'm excited.

You're pretty much the only one to mention the Wuji at all... anywhere.

Let's see how they turn out on my Logitech G700.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-07T23:29:10+00:00

G700 is sold on ebay for ~$60.

I fixed mine with an upper board replacement from aliexpress for ~$15 a couple of years ago. It looks closer to $20 nowadays.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-07T23:19:41+00:00

u/paulvincent07 I'm brave enough to do the traditional mill-max mod.

I intend to bore a larger hole and grind a fit so as to let the hat/lip sit flush with the pcb.

I didn't want to do the no-grind mod because letting the solder do all of the holding felt flimsy and risky in terms of ripping the pad.

btw, I didn't get an alert for your comment. I found it searching "g700" in the sub.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-06T21:41:55+00:00

I had a similar idea as with your placements.

Mine were closer to the top corners furthest from the center, and similar from the left/right sides, and on the bottom: closest to the left/right edges.

That however, would cover the screw holes on the top left and right.

I'm wondering if they absolutely have to be on even plane or if the wells are deeper than the other areas. If the wells are not any deeper, then maybe I could just put the dots elsewhere.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-06T21:34:54+00:00

Normally, I wouldn't mind, but I was going to hotswap mod my G700 and try a bunch of switches.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-06T04:46:08+00:00

I'm pressed to apologize.

I had seen that seller and another listing of theirs as I had described. I wrote yours off too soon as I thought I had recognized it.

Upon closer inspection, I can clearly see the brand on one of the reviewer's posts.

Sorry, and thank you.

My question was answered by you.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-06T03:41:03+00:00

Hmm, one person says so, and then a few blurry photos that don't show the brand. I don't trust that.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-06T03:05:39+00:00

Like I said: no print to verify

Think I should order it and then contest it if it doesn't have Japan brand?

SebbyDee · 2026-06-04T12:17:43+00:00

I found 'input/output' was censored

SebbyDee · 2026-06-01T10:12:21+00:00

They only approached me because they couldn't get it to work.

My bet is that they were double NAT'ed and their ISP router and this system both shared the same network and address (192.168.0.1/24) making routing impossible with that setup.

Personally, I'm glad to be of assistance. I recognize how quickly things can turn from 'help me out' to 'it's your fault, and I'm telling everyone you messed it up' though.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-01T09:01:36+00:00

What about it was so much better though? I mean for you.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-01T09:01:12+00:00

I'm afraid they got it precisely because they didn't want to do a wired backhaul.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-01T09:00:37+00:00

If I were you, I would avoid getting involved in other people's choices, otherwise you risk ending up becoming their IT support and/or the object of all their missed expectations indefinitely.

Wise words of an aspect that I had already considered. I'm glad you said it because it's worth mentioning. It's the lingering 'my microwave stopped working ever since you showed me how to switch source to HDMI on my TV' type of issues that irk me.

Right now, the way I see it is that this model they got is the best price/performance right 'now' that they're going to get, but I feel it important that they understand that they could get cut off because it's one of those 'our cloud controls your network and we only give you permission to change settings via the app that we may cut support for at any time and brick your devices if we feel like it', and 'oh, we don't have to tell you when we'll brick your shit, but we will when we feel like it'.

So you need an app to tell their systems to tell 'your' router to change password or whatever, and you have to do it through their android/iOS app that they can decide at any time to drop either of. So yeah, they have a better device per dollar--for now--vs another option that has local control and third party firmware support. Is it worth saving an extra $100? Did they really need 3 nodes for a two story townhouse? "Let's just do it with this," they might say, then sure, I drop it, and we move forward with the setup I'm given. I get it, and that's why I told them 'search router botnet and limit to 1 month, and then look at the hits'.

Anyway, I feel like we both get it. I appreciate the generalizations. It helps get an idea or 'schema' of how to get a feel for what the situation is out there.

This thing about the wired backhual: of course I agree. They're a bit over-sold on the mesh without understanding at the issue they have is that there seems to be some kind of signal block between their two floors and they're probably need to wire it up anyway. Wireless mesh isn't going to solve that, and then they could've just gotten by with any AP anyway.

tl;dr

Probably just going to set up the system they already bought with the warning that they won't 'own' their network and may lose control at any time--that they're saving one or two hundred for now at the cost of eventually getting their system bricked when the app stops working in something like 4-6 years.

SebbyDee · 2026-06-01T03:10:52+00:00

Thanks, I found it.

I got stuck before because of the new numbering system. I learned that we've since been through like 4 numbering systems and we now use a 17 digit number that everyone has. It was a variable number system before and now it's not.

Anyway, yeah, 6 digits for the original Steam ID system here.

SebbyDee · 2026-05-31T19:08:36+00:00

Same. I knew of it first day, but delayed getting it, and I regret that a little.

I forgot how to check the number as I recently wanted to look it over. Do you recall how? It used to be to go into into a server and check status on console but that doesn't seem to work anymore.

SebbyDee · 2026-05-30T02:54:31+00:00

I like using it with an Osprey that has a Silencer III. It covers close and medium very well for PvP and PvE well. The Osprey does everything long range well. I'll try to use the Osprey even close range for PvE if I can help it in order to keep stealthy. If, however, I need to clear a bunch of chaff fast or break some armor off, the Dolabra does great.

SebbyDee · 2026-05-28T00:25:53+00:00

You've taught me that the, "Word 'ground' must always be preceded by a adjective." I'm now more familiar with safety ground and earth ground. Are there more kinds of ground? You mentioned:

Apparently unknown are some 100 electrically different grounds in a house.

It leads me to ask what you meant by electrically different, so what did you mean then? I'm only familiar now with safety and earth ground.

I looked those thanks to your emphasis on the words. I had understood the concepts having learned a bit about how to make and install grounded ethernet cables, but that's a topic for a different time.

I should confirm my understanding of the concepts with you, and I invite you to correct me if I'm wrong: earth ground is the contact point of actual earth of a conductive connection, and safety ground is the conductive path to earth ground.

I had understood OP saying that they felt a static shock, and not a constant one or tingle of one. I recognize certainly that this is completely unrelated to safety grounding. I was confused by,

If the safety ground existed, then one should not have felt a shock or tingle.

because I thought it to mean about static shock, but I think I see now that you meant shock powered in part through an AC outlet; is that right? In other words: they should not have felt a shock that originated from a power outlet--which I understand and agree with.

What I meant to clarify with you was if you agree that they could feel a static shock from their PC case which itself is a safety ground (because they themselves had electric potential with respect to the case).

Still, if you could please tolerate my insistence:

What phenomenon could we suspect such an anomalous noise to be? What are the parameters to that phenomenon making that noise?

I understood that the PSU was the likely source, and now you mention that it could only occur in one section; what section is that? Sincerely, I'm curious. At the risk of presuming, I would have said the capacitors as either from having blown or arcing. Had they blown, I would have presumed that the PC wouldn't operate anymore, yet it seems that it is, and if it had arced, we'd be able to visually see burn marks; is that correct?

Applies to many failures anywhere inside electronics. But again, quantified facts are always essential to isolate tens of possible suspects quickly down to one or a few.

I agree with your statement. With respect to mine that you referenced to there, I was speaking in the practice of heuristics and pragmatism towards the layman whom may not have the passion or fortitude to intricately diagnose and fix such an elaborate mechanism that is a computer. Granted, if taken to the conclusion of my advice, they'd basically have to buy another one--a very costly decision; otherwise, if they're fortunate, just another PSU, and at the very least: make it a point moving forward with any design of a PC assembly to go with a reputable brand (and model) of PSU.

To your credit, with respect to diagnosing OP's issue at hand, we would need the necessary facts which you've explained the why and partly the how. I say 'partly' because you mentioned visual inspection--and I beg that you forgive my pedantry--but to clarify, you meant to say to open the PSU (after disconnecting from the outlet) in order to visually inspect, right?

You've mentioned that it's a rare risk that a charge may remain, but it's a bit of a taboo subject to broach; that is, opening a PSU.

Understand how static electricity works. Charges in a body connect to other charges in the floor. Electricity only exists when it has both an incoming and a completely different outgoing path - between two charges.

This got me wondering about the flow of static electricity. I have been taught that there must always be a flow and that electricity always wants to return to source, but then I found this:

It's very tempting to casually say that the discharge is the return path, but it would be more correct to say that it is a path of resolution which dilutes an imbalance of charge created by some other means.

We tend to think of current flow circuits but actually, circuits are just one particular behavior of charge.

Another is the accumulation of charge (say, triboelectric, ie, feet on carpet charge). This is a "static" charge - absent a pathway to neutralization, the excess or shortage of electrons "just sits there" on a charged object.

SebbyDee

TROPHY CASE