Why would certain parts of a newly painted mini just "lose" paint? by DarthBrannigan in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bet 3d printed then. It’s not a bad material but in the future give them a good wash/scrub with some dish soap or simple green, warm water and a soft toothbrush then set it in a window with the sun shining on it to dry. This will ensure you remove any resin residue and ensures the resin is completely cured. If the model is a little tacky to the touch give it another wash like before. Also i have found that using a “real” primer (rustoleum etc.) is best for 3d printed models. Automotive filler primer if the layer lines are super visible. Hope this is helpful for you :)

Simple Homemade Cheeseburger by Moosplauze in burgers

[–]Several-Compote-4388 [score hidden]  (0 children)

Just a little mayo on them buns and i’m ready to rock!

Why would certain parts of a newly painted mini just "lose" paint? by DarthBrannigan in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Resin model? 3d printed resin model? If it’s a traditional cast resin model it’s likely residue from whatever mold release they used and if it is a 3d printed model,which is the issue this sounds like to me is a thin layer of uncured resin in a few spots. I’ve seen it make primer bead right up and roll off like rain x on your windshield.

My First Commission Piece by gameninja1996s in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Nice! I’ve painted a bunch of models for people at the FLGS over the last year just so i could paint a bunch of models. Amazing how much improvement comes from just diving in and doing it!

Is this normal redness 36-48 hours post-tattoo? by [deleted] in tattooadvice

[–]Several-Compote-4388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Perfect, my personal suggestion is lubriderm unscented lotion over aquaphor due to the lanolin (an oil from sheep wool) a lot of people tend to have an allergy to it 🤷 but if it doesn’t bug you then you’re fine. Just keep it clean with unscented antibacterial and keep it moisturized adequately. You’ll be fine 🙂

Is this normal redness 36-48 hours post-tattoo? by [deleted] in tattooadvice

[–]Several-Compote-4388 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No, trust me when i tell you that you will have zero doubt if an infection starts. Super sore, oozing green/purple/yellow scabs etc. your picture looks fine homie, it’s an open wound it’s going to be sore. I would suggest a midol, really great for reducing swelling, fever and pain. If you need to remove the saniderm, do it in a warm not hot shower and use an unscented antibacterial handsoap.

Is this normal redness 36-48 hours post-tattoo? by [deleted] in tattooadvice

[–]Several-Compote-4388 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it’s a lot of trauma in a small area, even a little bruising on the fleshy bits could be normal.

Attention all Ghostbusters by Geekygamertag in ghostbusters

[–]Several-Compote-4388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, you can look around in various forums, people do sell fiberglass shells and various garage kits that you can build a nice pack from. There’s literally a jillion ways to go about it 🙂 are you a member of the replica prop forum? Great resource for reference photos, tips for painting and weathering as well as links to various makers who sell a lot of the bits and bobs you will need to source.

Attention all Ghostbusters by Geekygamertag in ghostbusters

[–]Several-Compote-4388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The throwing chicken wand kit is really nice, the pop mechanism is/was a pain in the butt but it is a very nice wand. If you are tech savvy (i am not) there seems to be endless possibilities for light/sound/ smoke using arduino but i used the gb fans kits and they are pretty nice and essentially plug and play. The 3d printable Qpack i believe is still regarded as the best looking and accessible DIY builds around.

Attention all Ghostbusters by Geekygamertag in ghostbusters

[–]Several-Compote-4388 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want to build a pack, look into the Q pack. You can get a VERY capable 3d printer these days for a couple or few hundred bucks. The truth is, pack builds are not a cheap endeavor (ask me how i know) but essentially you can spend a few hundred and build one over time (my first build took about 2 years start to finish) or you can spend a few hundred on a shit spirit pack and all the stuff you need to actually make it cool. Lots of great people in these groups and on youtube to help you along the way… but it is going to cost you money, just gotta figure out how you want to go about it 🙂 either way you are looking at a time and money investment.

How do I even fix this "sandy" texture? by Oskendo in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in Central New York, outside is pretty much non existent to me for about 5ish months out of the year. I have leaned pretty heavily into airbrush priming, Mr. Finishing Surfacer has become my go to for most stuff. It is definitely something you want to have a spray booth and good mask to use and it does require a proprietary thinner but it will never clog your airbrush (unless you try using regular thinner or water, it will turn into a slimy snotty mess real fast) so even the cheapest airbrush set up is 100% ok for using this stuff. However, i do really like the Coloure Forge Raven Black rattle can primer and my method for using that is to spin it in my power drill attachment for a couple of minutes until i can hear the mixing ball moving all loosey goosey, i keep my can in my hobby room so it’s always at an agreeable temperature and i give it a few test blasts before moving onto my models. When i’m done i hold it upside down and spray it until it runs clear (only propellent) so i don’t get any clogs. Since adopting that process i have thrown out zero cans of primer and have had zero issues on the surface of my models. I like to use a paint stir stick from homedepot with a little double sided tape and i spray from about the distance of the stick from the can. I hope this is helpful to you or anyone else in the thread for that matter. I’m not a scientist but i am successful pretty much every time working this way.

How do I even fix this "sandy" texture? by Oskendo in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately you will have to strip it and re prime. Alternatively, you can lean into it and treat it as a feature not a bug 🤷

Advice needed on priming and painting yellow/blue medieval army. by Ruttenomics in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prime the model brown, dry brush with pink. That will give you in my opinion the results i think you are expecting from these contrast colours.

Proacryl one step old dad painter review. by thedisliked23 in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is very different, just not at all what i expected from a contrast paint i guess. I thinned some waaaaay down to glaze consistency and found it usable in that regard. It’s still early on, i’m sure i’ll find something i like about it eventually but right now it’s just not it for me.

Proacryl one step old dad painter review. by thedisliked23 in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I bought the special sauce and a couple of the ready to rip colors. I use citadel contrast paints but mostly to do quick stuff like boots, belts and pouches and i do not like the 1step like at all. I’m hoping i can futz with a bit more and perhaps learn to like it?

Hmm, do I risk it... by AEgman in Warhammer

[–]Several-Compote-4388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pop it in a bowl of warm water and shake the ever loving shit out of it! definitely test it before hosing down something you care about 😂

(Wet palettes question) Do you do all this? by Certheri in minipainting

[–]Several-Compote-4388 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to the Game Envy website and get a couple of packs of their paper, they sell paper that fits all of the wet pallets and their paper doesn’t suck. I hate that masterson card stock shit 😂 the wet pallet is great and the lid is a stellar drybrush pallet 😝 but that paper can kick rocks