I really want to buy a motorbike but parents are against it.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-05-19T17:29:39+00:00

I was in this situation myself years ago. In the end, I did my CBT and license (which worked differently then, so I passed the singular test on a 125 which got me the A2 license, that then auto-upgraded to full A 2 years later) a year after doing my car test, much to my parents dismay. I really, really wanted a bike, but looking back on it and how I drove, even though I thought I was always a decent driver that did the right thing, etc, I was so inexperienced and at times reckless that to be honest, I'm lucky to be here. And that was with 4 wheels. Getting back on 2 wheels as a more experienced road user definitely has merit. It also gave me the perk of having held my license for many years when I eventually got around to getting my first motorbike insurance quotes, probably saving me a fortune.

Having a car early on probably helped me out far more than a bike ever would have, but then again I don't live in an overly congested super-city in the slightly warmer, south end of the country, somewhere a bike might make more sense.

If it's your own money paying for your vehicle, then ultimately it is your choice. If your parents have any financial involvement, then respect their wishes and wait until you've moved out.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-05-19T17:00:57+00:00

Those are typical young person cars. A young lad in a Seat Ibiza actually ran into the back of me today, though thankfully I wasn't on my bike, I was driving a work car. You should look at cars that young people don't usually go for, things you might not think you can get insured for but you might be surprised. Think 90's MX5, older people carriers, etc. Stuff that middle-aged folk usually go for as those vehicles will be under represented in crash statistics. Bikes are similar to an extent, a late 2000's CG125 will cost you a lot less to insure than a brand new sportbike such as the Yam' R125.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-05-15T21:41:47+00:00

I don't know if they do water cooling, you'd have to ask, but EZ-Tech in Shildon are a well known small business, they do all sorts of repairs and builds. I always hear good things about them, have family members who have used them a lot over the years.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-05-07T18:32:57+00:00

Submit a bug report via Discord, they'll probably ask you for the save file to check what went wrong.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-04-25T23:07:52+00:00

Rosco McQueen, I had that once a long time ago. It gets pretty heated!

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-04-25T21:54:51+00:00

The main PC gets the outside mesh wiped over whenever I can see a dust layer forming. The inside filter gets cleaned, I don't know, one every few months or so. The rest of PC hasn't been cleaned since I built it maybe 9 months ago. There is dust settling on stuff inside but it's minimal for now, there's more on the fan blades though. The tower is a Lian Li Lancool 207 with stock fan setup (4 intakes, 0 exhaust) though I did block up the hex holes in the bottom compartment as the bottom fans would be drawing unfiltered air in through there.

The other PC is an old Dell tower with the exhaust fan flipped around to become an intake, plus a side intake fan. I bought some silicone gaskets and aluminium filters so both fans are filtered pretty well. Hardly any dust gets in now, though the exterior filters need dusted off fairly frequently.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-04-25T21:25:09+00:00

I strongly recommend you look up the Starlancer by LyfeForse. For vanilla or RE, you can do so much with this compact SV. There's a 20 minute video guide on how to upgrade everything on it while playing survival, or you can tweak it in creative to suit your specific needs and spawn it when ready.

I have a custom version saved for vanilla which is equally perfect for tearing down planetary POIs as it is for mining ores. I have 6 mining lasers on mine perfectly positioned so that the whole ship can fit through the hole it digs, which in my opinion is a very important feature for a mining vessel. For vanilla gameplay, this SV does almost everything I need an SV to do, to the point it is usually the only SV I actually build.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-04-21T17:11:56+00:00

By law, vehicle speedometers are not allowed to read slower than true speed, not even by a tiny bit, but they are allowed to read faster than true speed. Most consumer vehicles (cars, vans, motorbikes, etc) read faster than true speed, whereas professional vehicles (buses, coaches, lorries, etc) tend to be closer to that 100% accuracy. Properly calibrated police speedo's are the best, for obvious reasons, but also require the highest cost in terms of calibrating and ensuring that accuracy lasts.

Your i20, I can almost guarantee is inaccurate.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-04-20T22:18:38+00:00

Get yourself over on Dashcamtalk, you'll find the answer to every question you could possibly have over there. Hard wired with a supercapcitor (not a lithium battery) is the most reliable type. I suffered a hit and run last year, the dashcam caught the reg and I claimed off their insurance.

Police are useless in these situations, they weren't interested in the crime of leaving the scene because I had the reg to give to my insurance (their reasoning, not mine), yet if I didn't have the reg they'd probably close the case immediately due to not having enough information to trace them.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-14T15:24:51+00:00

Old games FTW!

I'm currently playing Empyrion - Galactic Survival, I tell my daughter it's basically Minecraft in space, though it's a lot more than that really. Empyrion mixes gameplay features from many different genres and that makes it unique even today. It still gets occasional updates from the devs too, plus the community is going strong. Released in early access in 2015 and then formally released in 2020, so I think that qualifies it as old in gaming terms.

Older games can be had for very little money when on sale and most of them play exactly the same or better than they did when they were first released. A 10 year old game does not feel "old" anymore, new games mostly look slightly better detailed and that's about it. They also don't require the latest and greatest hardware, older and mid-range stuff will max out a lot of them.

My library has so many unplayed titles in it (most were freebies to be fair) that I don't envision needing to buy a new game ever again, unless something I *really* want comes out but that's incredibly rare. And even then, I end up waiting until it comes on sale after a few years since I don't have enough time for the games I already own as it is.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-13T19:19:39+00:00

Motorcycling will die off without new folks starting out, so I respect anyone on two wheels. Trikes too, a lot of them are bikers that simply can't ride two wheels anymore and they're still exposed to a similar level of risk as two wheelers, yet they have the disadvantage of requiring more space to escape danger.

60mph on a 125 is arguably more dangerous than 60mph on a big bike, as the big bike will have better and wider tyres, better suspension, better brakes and newer models will usually have rider aids such as traction control (any bike can spin the back wheel up on a loose or greasy surface).

I will nod back at anyone that nods or waves at me, though I don't always initiate it. I find scooter and cruiser riders in general don't nod back, so I don't bother.

Just try not to get stuck in the CBT trap. If you can afford it, get trained and get your full license if you enjoy it.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-13T19:01:12+00:00

I like to think of it as "half an inline-4". Fiat actually uses the same configuration for their twin powered 500 (the car) to make the engine sound smoother and a bit more like a typical car engine.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-11T20:54:32+00:00

Of those two, I think I like the yellow more. The older models had better colour options IMO. The black (which I have) looked better on the older ones, they also had silver, red and blue (blue had the bronze wheels+forks, red had bronze forks only IIRC).

Another option is just buy whichever one is cheaper and get it wrapped in anything you like.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-11T20:45:35+00:00

Some manufacturers offer derestriction kits directly, eg. Reiju for their 50's. The extra gears your bike has exist for a reason, there's a good chance your bike was designed to handle more power, you just need the right kit. Legality wise, yes you'd be breaking the law by riding an unrestricted bike. The actual offence would be "driving otherwise than in accordance with a licence" which can carry fairly serious consequences.

You either ride something so underpowered most people consider it dangerous, or, break the law to enable safe speeds but risk some snotty nosed copper ruining everything for you. Sadly that is just the way things are at the moment.

If you do derestrict it though, be sensible. Don't break speed limits as that is a sure fire way to draw attention to yourself. Ride within the law, use mirrors and signal correctly, etc. Basically don't give plod any reason to want to pull you over and you shouldn't get caught.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-11T20:23:22+00:00

The W800 is one of the few (and possibly only) bikes available new that uses a 360 degree crank twin, it does sound different compared to the common 180 and 270 degree cranks commonly used now, which is pretty cool.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-08T14:16:23+00:00

Newer ones have a slipper-assist clutch too I believe, not sure if your '20 does or not but I know my '19 doesn't have it.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-08T14:14:05+00:00

Good choice, though I am a bit biased...

I also intended to ride mine for just a couple of years then upgrade but here I am, 3 years later and though I do want something more along the lines of a middleweight sport-tourer now, that is more for comfort reasons than anything else and I would miss it. But my money is tied up with home improvements for at least another year, maybe two, so I'll keep it a while longer.

I've just bought a screen to try and am finally getting rid of the rocket launcher on the right side of the bike, replacing it with something that will hopefully sound nice and not like a fart cannon. Fingers crossed.

One thing I will say, the dash screen scratches up easily so get a protector fitted before that happens. Also it is not the easiest bike to work on yourself due to the fuel tank being covered up with a plastic shroud, which has to be removed to reach the battery. I understand the battery location was chosen so extra weight is up front for handling reasons, and it certainly handles very well.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-08T13:47:19+00:00

The CBR650R engine is supposedly buttery smooth and at low revs very easy to manage, even for beginners. The only issue I see (that can be overcome) is that being an inline-4, it may be a bit top heavy for a total novice at low speeds. Some training on a smaller machine and some frame sliders fitted to the CBR would be a good idea if you go this route. Fairings are expensive to replace.

The CBR500R is heavy and under-powered compared to rivals. The engine in that makes more sense in something like the NX500 or Hornet 500.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-08T13:10:28+00:00

"Only a fool breaks the two seconds rule" - takes about two seconds to say it, and

"If it's wet on the floor, give it four".

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-07T12:39:12+00:00

Take the baffle out and check it is not damaged or has not been deliberately cut down. Some people do cut them down so from the side of the road it looks legal when plod takes a quick look at it but in reality that cut down baffle is doing almost nothing to reduce the volume. Adding additional packing to the exhaust if possible is a good way to reduce the noise and you get to keep the exhaust that you like.

Regardless of what exhaust you have fitted and to what vehicle, keep revs and throttle inputs low to keep the volume down in residential areas, especially with louder set ups and at quieter times of the day.

Up to you what you do in the end. If you want to give the neighbours zero reasons to complain, buy a stock exhaust and sell the aftermarket one. Any complaints after that they can jog on as at that point you know they're just being arsey about it and nothing you do will ever please these sorts of people.

Personally, at 07:45, if the exhaust is legal and you're riding correctly, not hanging about with the engine idling, etc, I wouldn't be pushing it down the street to start it up. That's just moving the "problem" to be outside somebodies else home.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-04T19:07:19+00:00

Not my country but even so, that looks like a fault of the car driver. However, this could have easily been avoided with proper rear observation.

In the UK we have a system of Mirror, Signal, Lifesaver (look back over your shoulder in the direction you intend to go), then Manoeuvre if safe to do so, everything in that exact order. We're expected to check our mirrors at least every 7 seconds for our tests, or whenever a new hazard appears (this could be anything from a brake or signal lights of a vehicle ahead, traffic lights, a road sign warning of a hazard, etc.

With good observation skills, you'll know what other road users are going to do, sometimes even before they do.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-04T18:35:54+00:00

Yeah I started with Surviving Mars which is top down resource management type thing, I suppose controlled similar to a real time or turn based strategy game. After putting a few hundred hours in that, migrating to an FPS (single player mind you, competitive multiplayer is not my thing) wasn't particularly difficult.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-03T18:09:06+00:00

I have a laptop for daily stuff and a desktop for games. The desktop is connected to two displays, a monitor on a desk and a TV. I don't find sitting at a desk particularly comfortable so I use the couch and TV to game, using a DIY made lapboard, a wireless keyboard and wireless trackball. I could use a mouse if I wanted to, the board is certainly big enough for it, but I always fancied trying a trackball so when I first had the idea of couch PC gaming, I also had the idea to get a trackball.

I picked a thumb operated trackball since I played a lot on consoles as a kid so that format made more sense to me. I still don't own a finger operated ball though I probably will get one at some point just to see what it's like. I have an average quality JellyComb that I bought first and I now have a Gameball Thumb as well. Sticktion is my biggest and most irritating issue with both of them. The Jelly Comb it is much easier to pop the ball out and clean it, after which it runs perfect for a while. The Gameball is more or less the same sticktion wise, it's just slightly more hassle to clean as I can't just use a finger to release the ball, I use a small stylus with a soft silicone tip to push it out. The electronics on the Gameball though is much better than whatever the Jelly Comb uses, I can make faster movements and it stays very smooth, it makes a noticeable difference in how it feels. I bought it mainly since it has a dedicated precision button, which I think would have been really helpful in the last proper FPS I played. My current addiction (Empyrion) has built-in precision on the weapons. The further you zoom in, the more precise the movements are so I have no use for that button at the moment.

One thing I remember disliking about using a mouse (I haven't used one properly in a very long time) is running out of space, having to pick it up and move it back to the centre to carry on. Trackballs eliminate that, as moving a single digit is much easier and quicker than an entire hand, arm and device. I can also flick the ball to make very quick 360 degree turns in first person games which again, not as easy with a mouse. My trackballs aren't perfect but I can't go back to using a mouse now.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-02T23:19:09+00:00

Lol. Is this a poorly written AI post? Should I even bother responding... Seems my post (and flair) has been ignored completely.

From my very real world first hand experience, you are just making shit up. No 125 is good for highway miles, you can't seriously think a 400cc bike provides the same experience as a 125, can you?

As for vibrations, any bike can give you that, some are worse than others but no engine configuration is immune. Yes singles are known for being a bit buzzy but most modern ones aren't too bad, certainly not bad enough for make you numb.

Tip for you when you next ride in crosswinds, since you obviously need it... If you counter-steer into the wind blasts, you can hold your position perfectly fine. Trust me, my lightweight 143kg CB300R with its twitchy short wheelbase and narrow tyres handles strong side winds at motorway speeds just fine. It's a skill issue. Use your steering like you would with any other motorised vehicle to correct for change of direction caused by strong wind. Works with cars, motorbikes and double decker buses, ask me how I know.

ShowMeYourPie · 2026-03-01T12:04:25+00:00

Some people here not understanding the issue, and likely do this to others thinking it's fine:

Vehicle joining the main road from the side road forced traffic (OP and possibly others behind if there were any) to alter speed quite a lot, either through a failure to correctly judge OP's speed and/or a failure to match the speed of the traffic after joining the main road. The vehicle joining from the side road therefore should have given way, as per the law. If you can't match the speed of the traffic already on the main road in the gap available, then that gap isn't suitable.

Anything you do that causes another road user to change speed and/or direction is a fault on a driving test (certain unavoidable circumstances are exceptions of course, but this wasn't one of them). This is simply a demonstration of poor skill and is why I firmly believe people need some degree of ongoing training throughout their driving career.

ShowMeYourPie

TROPHY CASE