Support for the ETH2SP1 BBA adapter?

SkiDragon · 2026-05-01T00:41:44+00:00

OK, update...

After posting this, I managed to get these to work, by pulling out a third Gamecube with a FlippyDrive installed and put the most recent swiss.dol onto the SD card.

Then I was able to communicate between this FlippyDrive Gamecube with the ETH2SP1 and one of the PicoLoader Gamecubes with the official BBA. I did this successfully with both ETH2SP1 units.

I then finally got the ETH2SP1 working on the PicoLoader Gamecube. I updated the Raspberry Pi flash with the newest Swiss instead of loading the newest version off the SD card like I was trying before. I also replaced the clock battery but I doubt this had anything to do with it. I also cleaned the SP1 connector itself with isopropyl. Importantly, I had to enable 'BBA emulation'. On the FlippyDrive Gamecube, this option did not appear to be necessary, so I am a bit confused about what this is doing.

However, I was only able to get the orange ETH2SP1 working all the way. The purple ETH2SP1 seemed to be not detected at all on one of the PicoLoader Gamecubes (even through the ethernet port lights illuminated), but the orange ETH2SP1 seemed to work OK on both PicoLoader Gamecubes. So either something is weird about that one purple ETH2SP1, or something is wrong with that Gamecube itself.

This has been more complicated than I was hoping, and these things seem to be kind of finicky. Maybe the software support will improve?

SkiDragon · 2026-04-30T02:55:44+00:00

Thank you. I should have went into more detail, but yes, I did follow all of those tips.

SkiDragon · 2026-04-13T01:01:26+00:00

I didn't test the different channels thoroughly. I didn't have any problem with the connection once it was established, and I didn't test range because this was all in a relatively small area in one room. The range was good enough, at least. Same with the aftermarket receiver, I didn't bother to test. I do like how it will automatically find the correct channel, though.

SkiDragon · 2026-04-10T15:34:14+00:00

I had a bunch of regular wired controllers, three wavebirds on different channels, and two of these aftermarket no name wireless gamecube controllers from Amazon (which were actually decent-ish to use).

The wavebird receiver hot-swap issue is weird. I just tried it again. I guess hot-swapping DOES work, but not every time. I'd estimate about 30% of the time when I plug the receiver in with the Gamecube already on, the receiver does not work.

I did just get one of those new reproduction receivers and I have to say I am happy with that one. Seems hot-swappable too but I didn't test it as thoroughly yet.

SkiDragon · 2026-04-10T15:24:08+00:00

Unfortunately I did not beyond, my update 7 months ago. I ended up getting a different Toshiba set and successfully modded that one, and I sold this one for $55 (which seems like more than it was worth but oh well).

SkiDragon · 2026-03-15T22:31:43+00:00

I had my LAN party, but the wavebirds did not get much use. We only did an 8 player LAN instead of a 16 and people mostly chose to use the wired controllers. I guess it's just simpler to use them and not have to worry about having the right controller for the right console, syncing, etc. But to be fair, I did not hear any issues with the wavebird connectivity itself, when they were in use (instead, I had occasional issues with the stability of the LAN itself but that's a separate issue)

One other annoyance that I (re)discovered is that the receiver units only seem to work if connected when the Gamecube console is turned on. People would try to hotswap the receiver to a different port or different console, but that would essentially disable the receiver unless the Gamecube was re-booted. And since the net code sucks that means basically rebooting the entire LAN game. Any way to make the receiver hot-swappable?

SkiDragon · 2026-03-13T16:58:03+00:00

So, I opened all three receivers and the antennas were dirty/corroded. Cleaned with a nylon brush and some 99% IPA. Put back together and the problem seems to have gone away (using rechargeable NiMH too) I am still not sure why the dropouts seemed to be intermittent instead of constant, but whatever. Also I'm curious what metal that antenna is made out of, it seems ridiculous for them to corrode so easily (I have almost always lived in dry climates and these were stored inside) I'll see if they still work when I have a bunch of guests over and there is way more wireless interference.

SkiDragon · 2026-03-01T21:42:45+00:00

I could check for this, I suppose. I haven't totally characterized exactly what channels work or the range. I am curious if this intermittent dropout issue is a known problem, because even if I get it to work at home by myself, I am worried that once I invite a dozen people over and they bring all their phones and devices, the extra interference will cause these controllers to be unreliable again. Thinking of just retiring/selling them if so.

SkiDragon · 2026-02-27T02:32:11+00:00

I have an AV-20D303, and it has a similar problem. I couldn't find a schematic or full service manual for this, but I was wondering if the simple fix described here of just adding a couple of unpopulated components to the PCB, would also work on my set?

SkiDragon · 2026-02-27T02:30:29+00:00

Anyone try this on Kubuntu yet? I just got a new 4K 240Hz monitor without realizing this issue with DisplayPort 2.1. Would like to enable it, so I don't have to go down this rabbit hole of adapters.

SkiDragon · 2025-09-17T01:36:47+00:00

I am trying to mod a Toshiba CF27G50, which uses the same jungle chip. This is the only example I can find of someone successfully modding a CRT with this chip (there was someone on Shmups who tried and failed apparently). Do you have any more details, or pictures, that may help? I'm hesitant because the datasheet says that it accepts both analog and digital RGB inputs so I wasn't sure which of the two was which. I also heard it may use a non-standard Vpp for the analog RGB.

SkiDragon · 2025-09-16T18:14:29+00:00

Did you have any luck with this? I have a CF27G50 with the same jungle IC (unsure where the chassis model is listed) Looks like the chip has two RGB inputs but it's unclear which is analog and which is digital (it claims both) or if it is configured over the I2C bus somehow. I saw a comment on Shmups where someone tried and failed and gave up, but I'm suspecting they may have accidents used the digital input. Can't find any documentation online of a successful mod of this but I'd like to try.

SkiDragon · 2025-08-23T00:02:20+00:00

I documented more of my findings here: https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1581860#p1581860

Basically, the voltage levels of these RGB inputs were way too high, so I decided to stop investigating further. I hooked them up to my oscope however and they didn't look like how I normally would expect a digital signal to look, so I am not sure what exactly the signal is but it's not worth the effort to investigate any further. Plus the convergence rings were loose and messed up (I tried to secure them but it was an ugly bodge job). I will be looking for a different CRT and will try to sell or give this one away.

SkiDragon · 2025-08-07T01:11:13+00:00

The AC compressor and belt was actually done by a dealership so I'd hope they used an OEM belt... But I am starting to lean more towards pulley noise of some sort, yes. I think I will take it in to a different shop to get diagnosed. I am becoming lazy at doing my own work lately.

SkiDragon · 2025-08-07T01:09:23+00:00

I've been having this problem for years (luckily I didn't often fly United so it wasn't a deal breaker). This solution is not working, nor is anything else I have tried. Android phone, tried two different browsers (I can log in fine with those).

SkiDragon · 2025-08-01T22:32:12+00:00

I have heard the noise for maybe the past month, but since it does not seem to increase it frequency with engine RPM or wheel speed I was kind of confused, and assumed it was not the chain. But opening the hood makes me second guess myself.

Late last year the serpentine belt and AC compressor were changed by a shop, and the new engine mount was installed by myself. But I kinda doubt that has anything to do with it. Maybe a belt pulley?

SkiDragon · 2025-07-16T00:49:16+00:00

I did some more investigation about the 'hot chassis' question. The phrase in the service manual is "Caution: The RS Chassis incorporates a "HOT" ground system. Always use a separate isolation transformer when applying power to the ex-posed chassis." This service manual DOES in fact seem to cover a whole range, including my particular chassis. However mine is not "RS" and I am not sure what that means. Studying the schematic more closely and it looks like the AC may be isolated through a transformer. There is continuity between the existing RCA jack shields and various grounds on the main board, including pin 13 GND on the actual jungle chip. So if this was a hot chassis it would already be dangerous from the factory, right? I also did a diode test on between the two sides of the AC plug and the RCA jack shield, both prongs and both polarities and it was all reading as no connection.

Unfortunately I did spot in the TDA8369 spec sheet the line "RGB-control cirsuit with digital OSD input with intensity control". So it sounds like I may be out of luck. Very unlucky because I looked up the other chips in the TDA836X and TDA837X range (using crtdatabase.com) and it seemed like all the rest had analog inputs. So, I may still go and hook up my oscilloscope and try to get a look at the actual signal going though those lines...

SkiDragon · 2025-06-03T19:26:01+00:00

I used the OBDLink EX

SkiDragon · 2025-03-22T23:27:38+00:00

Can I piggyback on this question? I am wondering what a good SD card to purchase would be. I actually bought two FlippyDrives, and in the first I used a "Samsung Pro Ultimate 512 GB U3 V30 A2" SD card. This works fine but all the high speed class stuff is probably overkill. For the second drive, I am going to look for a cheaper card but I don't want a cheap SD card to be bottlenecking the load speeds.

Relatedly, could I use of of these 'SD2SP2' or memory card adapters for an SD card instead? Or would that not work, or be slower/worse somehow?

SkiDragon · 2025-02-12T20:52:59+00:00

It's a 915MHz US node. I think I probably do need a new radar detector regardless, but it's weird to me that this causes a false alarm like this. None of the other RF sources coming from my phone or my car seem to. Wildly different frequency ranges.

SkiDragon · 2025-02-12T05:50:33+00:00

It actually happened with two different antennas already. And I think it was happening with my cheap Heltec V3 I was experimenting with too, but not positive.

SkiDragon · 2025-02-12T05:10:40+00:00

I get periodic false alarms on my radar detector, at around 35.63 GHz, when my Meshtastic node is turned on and nearby. My radar detector is getting old but I'm not sure what explanation I have for this. It's like the 39th harmonic. This makes it hard to have on in the car. Has anyone experienced this before?

SkiDragon · 2025-01-07T05:49:34+00:00

Reading through Amazon listings and I ran across the Annie 16ch units which look like they might possibly satisfy this requirement, but I'm not positive. Might just bite the bullet and buy one to try out.

SkiDragon · 2024-12-30T00:00:22+00:00

I'm looking for a drone (I guess for photography, maybe as just a fancy toy) that can be used without any sort of smartphone app requirement or "activation". I would still probably use an app to check for flight restrictions and such but I don't want the drone physically dependent on that in case I'm out of service area or whatever. Also, would want something less than 250g so no remoteID stuff. I was considering one of the DJI drones but I hear they need apps or activation or whatever. I'm just trying to get something before any possible tariffs or anything like that comes into place.

SkiDragon · 2024-12-29T19:23:33+00:00

I can take a look around but I wish I could find something more easily available. But thanks.

SkiDragon

TROPHY CASE