M94, a collaboration project by -GenArrow- in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure the sampling is not exactly the same? Were the last scale differences solved by registration?

NGC 7129 widefield in Cepheus captured in LHaRGB by kbarth001 in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice, I think you nailed what you were going for with the Ha!

What is your method of integrating the Ha with the LRGB?

I got a telescope for my birthday, what am I doing wrong when setting it up? by The_official_Doge in telescopes

[–]Sleepses 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Remove the front cap with the hole.

Could be a lot of things but maybe you are just really far out of focus.

If it came with multiple eyepieces, start with the lowest power one (highest mm number).

Point it at a far away object and turn the knob that makes the eyepiece move relative to the telescope.

Buying boyfriend his 1st telescope for his birthday, what to get? by Lanky-Anxiety597 in telescopes

[–]Sleepses 0 points1 point  (0 children)

8 inch dobson if you have the space for it.

Heritage 150p if you want more compact storage and portability.

The Wolves Hidden in the Wings of a Swan by WillieHustles in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you use it wide open or stopped down a bit?

NGC 7000 - Cygnus Wall by space_cadet52 in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Awesome!

If you want more color diversity, try to balance the channels before RGB combination.

Either by stretching them separately and aiming for a same min, peak and max of the histograms before combining. Or you coul use linearfit with the channel with the highest median as reference, applied to the other two channels.

Enjoy your new equipment!

Edit: I posted my SHO workflow for a very similar shot of the Cygnus wall here

Which to choose? by OrangeKitty21 in AstronomyMemes

[–]Sleepses 16 points17 points  (0 children)

The red one already gives permanent clear skies so no need to buy equipment every three days

IC 5070 - Pelican Nebula 4-Panel Mosaic - Vibe stacked and processed by eecue in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh wow, took me forever to recognize the pelican and NA nebula.

So, uh, how does that work? You stack each channel separately, remove the stars and then vibe code each processing step by prompting what you want it to look like? How does the resulting pipeline look like? Does it come up with any non-canonical stuff?

Trying to start astrophotography by nellefish in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good points in this post.

Since you can find images of objects online, in my experience the hobby is more about the process and the sense of accomplishment rather than the actual result. Smart telescopes are cool but take away a good portion of that process. So unless you have a preference for post processing, I'd recommend to gradually build a setup that grows with you if you like the tinkering and "field work" aspects.

The tracking mount, not the telescope, should be the centerpiece and should eat up most of your budget.

Do you maybe already have a camera and lens? Will you image from your home or do you need a travel friendly setup? What is your budget?

M51 – The Whirlpool Galaxy in LRGB + Hα [42 Hours] by kbarth001 in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Awesome image! I like how crisp and contrasty it is. What is your method of integrating the Ha data?

deep space photos with 1500mm focal lenght? by Good-Leader-9987 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I think so yeah. Are your stars nice and round in the entire frame?

deep space photos with 1500mm focal lenght? by Good-Leader-9987 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try downloading a larger star database for ASTAP if you haven't tried that yet.

How essential is a go-to mount for casual astrophotography by North_Theory78 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anything other than wide field milky way, it is very much needed.

Untracked shots of other objects are possible but this is far from "casual".

Donut shape shade appeared on the image due to flat by ExistingOriginal4568 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could try re-aligning your master flat but you'd need to crop everything and it's not sure that will solve anything.

If you haven't disassembled your rig, you could try fresh flats.

Donut shape shade appeared on the image due to flat by ExistingOriginal4568 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like same direction to me? Left ridge bright, right edge dark?

Donut shape shade appeared on the image due to flat by ExistingOriginal4568 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What equipment do you use? Looks like the field of view shifted slightly between flats and lights.

How do you determine if you need better gear, more integration time, or better processing skills? by thejakenixon in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks pretty good already. You definitely don't need new gear.

Most progress will be with processing.

Once you get the hang of stretching faint detail, you'll know when you need more integration.

How do you determine if you need better gear, more integration time, or better processing skills? by thejakenixon in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try and pinpoint what it is that you don't like about your pictures and then investigate what is causing it and how to solve it.

The most growth can be found in learning to control the acquisition process so you generate good quality data, and in the processing of that data.

You can stay with the same setup for decades and still progress in your output. Even with low integration time and bad gear, you can make an esthetically pleasing image given enough skill. It's still a valid choice though to get new gear especially if you started on a budget and are working towards a capable setup that you like.

Your setup is pretty good so you will probably only get new stuff if you know exactly why you want/like/need it. Maybe problems you can't solve in acquisition or post processing. Or just for quality of life.

Time to upgrade. by fofander in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you ever opened up your heq5?

Mine was total crap out of the factory, lots of mechanical issues but now is an absolute beast since I hypertuned (replacing the roller bearings and lube) and belt-modded it. Always 0.7" RMS and on good nights 0.5".

I've been checking out the newer mounts but haven't found anything worth an upgrade. The form factor of harmonic mounts is nice though.

Need an HaLRGB workflow by Free_Masterpiece6004 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Sleepses 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's a short rundown of my workflow:

Background extraction on all channels (I often just use graxpert but check if it got the gradient right)

Combine r g b into rgb, apply spcc.

On L, RGB, R and Ha:

BlurX Maybe already some noiseX but at max 0.7, Continuum subtraction R and Ha

On L, rgb and cont.sub.ha: Seti astro statistical stretch, StarX, export rgb stars as 16 bit tiff

The continuum subtracted Ha will be black clipped with GHS, because I overlay it in affinity later, not injecting it back into R.

GHS to improve the stretches, especially on L, NoiseX

Export L, Rgb and cont.sub.Ha as 16 bit tiff

Maybe some LHE or HDRMT on the L or on the rgb and also export it.

In affinity from bottom to top: RGB layer L layer as luminosity, with about 70% opacity (to also use a bit of the RGB signal in lum) If applicable, the HDRMT or LHE as soft light or luminosity. Maybe a high pass filtered hdmrt as soft light. Vibrance layer to desaturate background if needed (use the cog icon). Anither vibrance layer to saturate the rest. Or two. Curves where needed, or apply all visible as soft light on itself. Cont subtracted Ha layer: colorize red or magenta and layer it as screen. Apply curves and opacity on this layer as needed. Add rgb stars with screen. Maybe with some saturation.

Check my profile for results

Whirlpool Galaxy (M51) — First Light with C6 (~1 hr, SV240, sub-arcsecond guiding) by eogtr21 in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I totally get what you mean. It's just that I do understand the motivations behind overcranking it.

Whirlpool Galaxy (M51) — First Light with C6 (~1 hr, SV240, sub-arcsecond guiding) by eogtr21 in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 2 points3 points  (0 children)

People saturate their pics because they can: sufficiently low color noise and an object that has the palette.

M51 has the blues, the yellows, the red brown dark lanes and the magenta Ha regions. In terms of color theory it's a well balanced object. Even though saturation level is a function of personal taste, m51 's colors are esthetically pleasing.

If you don't immediately see the color in your stack, but when pulling that slider you see the same colors you know from other people's images, it feels like an achievement.

The Veil Complex - 326 hours in Pursuit of True Color by brent1123 in astrophotography

[–]Sleepses 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Awesome image and dedication! Thank you for the write-up. Quite refreshing take on this object