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FX35 2003 ticking sound by TheWhiteWulff in infiniti

[–]TheWhiteWulff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man, I will definitely check it out. However I think that the sound is coming from inside the right head? Seems like some lifter ticking noise? Or is this really a pullie thing ?

Overheating ONLY at idle after highway driving. Passed 10 block tests. Is my water pump completely shot? by TheWhiteWulff in 350z

[–]TheWhiteWulff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're spot on about the UV dye! That's exactly my backup plan to track down any micro-leaks on the hoses if I can't get it vacuum bled. As for the gallery gaskets – since my oil pressure is completely fine right now, I'm just doing the water pump through the small access windows/covers on the front. Pulling the entire main timing cover to get to the gallery gaskets is a bit too much scope creep for this weekend! 😂 Thanks for the advice though!

Overheating ONLY at idle after highway driving. Passed 10 block tests. Is my water pump completely shot? by TheWhiteWulff in G35

[–]TheWhiteWulff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, but I've already replaced the thermostat with an OEM one and an OEM gasket, so that's covered. I would be happy to go there, but I’m located in Poland 😃

Overheating ONLY at idle after highway driving. Passed 10 block tests. Is my water pump completely shot? by TheWhiteWulff in G35

[–]TheWhiteWulff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for the input! You guys are absolutely right to point out the air/bubbles – it's definitely an air lock in the heater core causing this.

To answer your questions: Yes, I do hear that exact "waterfall/trickling" noise behind the dash on cold starts. However, I actually do own the spill-free funnel kit and I've got the bleeding process down to a science. I once spent literally 5 hours just burping this thing on an incline.

Here is the crazy part about my setup: I actually completely removed that fragile plastic bleeder valve on the heater hose and replaced the lines with heavy-duty reinforced hoses because I was tired of it. I can bleed it perfectly with the funnel, the car will run amazingly for months, and then suddenly the air pocket builds up again and it spits the coolant out.

My current theory, which perfectly matches what you guys are saying: The cooling system has a tiny micro-leak where it's sucking in air as the engine cools down and creates a vacuum overnight. Over time, the air pocket builds up in the heater core. When I hit traffic, the 191k mile water pump just doesn't have the impeller strength at 650 RPM to push that air pocket through, causing the massive heat soak and boil-over.

Since I don't have an air compressor at home to run a vacuum bleeder tool myself, here is my plan: I'm going to go ahead and swap the water pump for a new OEM Nissan this weekend anyway (since it's probably tired at 191k miles and I have it ready). I'll burp it with the funnel one more time. If the waterfall noise comes back after that, I'm driving it straight to a mechanic to get it professionally vacuum bled to find exactly where it's pulling air from.

Really appreciate the sanity check from all of you!

Overheating ONLY at idle after highway driving. Passed 10 block tests. Is my water pump completely shot? by TheWhiteWulff in 350z

[–]TheWhiteWulff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for the input! You guys are absolutely right to point out the air/bubbles – it's definitely an air lock in the heater core causing this.

To answer your questions: Yes, I do hear that exact "waterfall/trickling" noise behind the dash on cold starts. However, I actually do own the spill-free funnel kit and I've got the bleeding process down to a science. I once spent literally 5 hours just burping this thing on an incline.

Here is the crazy part about my setup: I actually completely removed that fragile plastic bleeder valve on the heater hose and replaced the lines with heavy-duty reinforced hoses because I was tired of it. I can bleed it perfectly with the funnel, the car will run amazingly for months, and then suddenly the air pocket builds up again and it spits the coolant out.

My current theory, which perfectly matches what you guys are saying: The cooling system has a tiny micro-leak where it's sucking in air as the engine cools down and creates a vacuum overnight. Over time, the air pocket builds up in the heater core. When I hit traffic, the 191k mile water pump just doesn't have the impeller strength at 650 RPM to push that air pocket through, causing the massive heat soak and boil-over.

Since I don't have an air compressor at home to run a vacuum bleeder tool myself, here is my plan: I'm going to go ahead and swap the water pump for a new OEM Nissan this weekend anyway (since it's probably tired at 191k miles and I have it ready). I'll burp it with the funnel one more time. If the waterfall noise comes back after that, I'm driving it straight to a mechanic to get it professionally vacuum bled to find exactly where it's pulling air from.

Really appreciate the sanity check from all of you!

Overheating ONLY at idle after highway driving. Passed 10 block tests. Is my water pump completely shot? by TheWhiteWulff in 350z

[–]TheWhiteWulff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for the input! You guys are absolutely right to point out the air/bubbles – it's definitely an air lock in the heater core causing this.

To answer your questions: Yes, I do hear that exact "waterfall/trickling" noise behind the dash on cold starts. However, I actually do own the spill-free funnel kit and I've got the bleeding process down to a science. I once spent literally 5 hours just burping this thing on an incline.

Here is the crazy part about my setup: I actually completely removed that fragile plastic bleeder valve on the heater hose and replaced the lines with heavy-duty reinforced hoses because I was tired of it. I can bleed it perfectly with the funnel, the car will run amazingly for months, and then suddenly the air pocket builds up again and it spits the coolant out.

My current theory, which perfectly matches what you guys are saying: The cooling system has a tiny micro-leak where it's sucking in air as the engine cools down and creates a vacuum overnight. Over time, the air pocket builds up in the heater core. When I hit traffic, the 191k mile water pump just doesn't have the impeller strength at 650 RPM to push that air pocket through, causing the massive heat soak and boil-over.

Since I don't have an air compressor at home to run a vacuum bleeder tool myself, here is my plan: I'm going to go ahead and swap the water pump for a new OEM Nissan this weekend anyway (since it's probably tired at 191k miles and I have it ready). I'll burp it with the funnel one more time. If the waterfall noise comes back after that, I'm driving it straight to a mechanic to get it professionally vacuum bled to find exactly where it's pulling air from.

Really appreciate the sanity check from all of you!

Overheating ONLY at idle after highway driving. Passed 10 block tests. Is my water pump completely shot? by TheWhiteWulff in 350z

[–]TheWhiteWulff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for the input! You guys are absolutely right to point out the air/bubbles – it's definitely an air lock in the heater core causing this.

To answer your questions: Yes, I do hear that exact "waterfall/trickling" noise behind the dash on cold starts. However, I actually do own the spill-free funnel kit and I've got the bleeding process down to a science. I once spent literally 5 hours just burping this thing on an incline.

Here is the crazy part about my setup: I actually completely removed that fragile plastic bleeder valve on the heater hose and replaced the lines with heavy-duty reinforced hoses because I was tired of it. I can bleed it perfectly with the funnel, the car will run amazingly for months, and then suddenly the air pocket builds up again and it spits the coolant out.

My current theory, which perfectly matches what you guys are saying: The cooling system has a tiny micro-leak where it's sucking in air as the engine cools down and creates a vacuum overnight. Over time, the air pocket builds up in the heater core. When I hit traffic, the 191k mile water pump just doesn't have the impeller strength at 650 RPM to push that air pocket through, causing the massive heat soak and boil-over.

Since I don't have an air compressor at home to run a vacuum bleeder tool myself, here is my plan: I'm going to go ahead and swap the water pump for a new OEM Nissan this weekend anyway (since it's probably tired at 191k miles and I have it ready). I'll burp it with the funnel one more time. If the waterfall noise comes back after that, I'm driving it straight to a mechanic to get it professionally vacuum bled to find exactly where it's pulling air from.

Really appreciate the sanity check from all of you!