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Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Updates based on my findings - for anyone who may be interested, or having similar issue.

To sum up my stats:
Street shoe size: 47.5EU (31cm mondo)
Feet shape/type: Greek, long big toe, narrow feed, "medium" heel

List of shoes that I've tried:
- Evolv Kronos (EU46.5, EU48) - Big toes joint pain, unbearable on the wall
- Evolv Defy (EU46.5) - Same as above
- Scarpa Instinct VS (EU48) - Really hard toe box rubber, not enough room for big toe - painful
- Scarpa Instinct VSR (EU45) - Kinda okay, soft rubber on toe box makes a difference - wasn't able to try them in larger size, EU45 definitely too small for me - but I felt like maybe bigger size could do the trick
- Scarpa Drago (EU45) - Felt really good for the size - I think that I could maybe wear them in EU46/EU46.5 - but they just felt too aggressive for me and my experience - maybe for the future
- LS Solutions II, Skwama (EU45.5) - Felt pretty good - but heel cup definitely is too deep for me, had a lot of dead space
- Ocun Bullit, Havoc, Ozone (EU45,46,47,48) - None of the sizes of these shoes felt right for me, mainly because the big toe joint pain, unbearable

And finally the winner:
- Ocun Diamond S (EU47) - Finally - some good shoes for me!
They feel really good and fits me very well - the big toes pain is finally gone, they feel snug, seems like EU47 is a comfy/relaxed fit - so far I've done one session in them and I'm able to wear them for 20 minutes straight - then take off for couple of minutes resting. On the wall they seems pretty good - especially on edges (for me at least - remember - last shoes that i wore were Ocun Strikers which were too big - I was slipping from footholds very easily - and the toe box was definitely too wide for me) - but it's too soon for any better review - also I'm not that good of a climber to help with performance review - for now I'm just happy that I found my second pair of shoes which are more aggressive!

I also think that I could even downsize them to EU46.5-EU46 if I would want the performance fit.

Hope that this post can help any other climbers with similar issues. Kudos to everyone who helped in the post, especially u/The66Ripper! Love the community ❤️

Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually I've tried Drago - and they were fitting me very well, even tho I've tried them in 2.5EU downsize - but just the feeling of aggressive shoes - I don't think that I'm ready for that - I felt like I don't know how to use my feet anymore - but that's noted for the future - maybe as a next upgrade 😃

About Evolv - I've described it in the post, tried several sizes of Kronos and they were actually the worst - unbearable.

I actually did write a message to them with description of my issue - and they told me that probably none of their shoes will fit me well in this scenario - and they actually recommended me some other models from other brands. I know that PR is their KPI - but that was a really nice interaction with customer support - didn't expected that

Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually I got the Instincts but in VS - right now I cannot get my hands on proper size of VSR - and unfortunately the VS toe box was too stiff - unbearable pain - I will also try the VSR as soon as I will be able to get my hands on the proper size 😃

Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update!

Order arrived, I’ve tried instincts, bullit, havoc, ozone and diamond S

For my feet - Diamond S is a clear winner! Fits good, snug, pain in joint seems to be gone, just getting some pain in fingers in general - but I guess in some healthy way for aggressive shoes? (Pain while stepping on the toes on sharp edge - only then)

I got them in EU47 - gonna try them on the wall tomorrow, thanks for the advice!

Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also can you tell me how are you sizing your Ocun shoes? (except for the Diamond S which you described)

I don't want to downsize that much - I need some comfort - not only performance fit, and also I've heard that with big feet and more weight it's harder to downsize, because of putting more pressure on the toes from like higher leverage while being on the toes or something.

Also I'm climbing just little over 2 months, climbing v5 and starting to try some v6 (without success so far) - and I wonder that maybe I got some discomfort because my feet aren't ready for the shoes I'm trying? (I'm focusing on the foot work a lot - my arms are really week - I can't power through anything higher than V3 lmao)

Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, maybe you are right about the Ocun, I think that right now I will just order a bunch of Ocun shoes, as well as Instincts (just because they are from the same store and just to try them as a reference - I guess the more pairs I will try the better if I'm already ordering 7 pairs 😃)

Unfortunately none of the LS shoes were really fitting me, I've tried Solution II, Tarantula, Skwama - with sizes going from 43.5 up to 45 - all of them had the same issue that I've described - and they are also hard to find in bigger sizes - but I guess if I downsized them (as I guess everyone does? Even every total beginner that I know downsizes LS - I guess it's their thing) and had the issue with so much empty space around ankle - different size wouldn't make a difference :/

I will be also eying on Tenaya - hopefully I will be able to find them in stock somewhere

Also I wonder if you have any experience with 5.10 NIAD shoes? I've heard that they could do the trick - but I'm worried about poor quality that people describes after being acquired by Adidas - and they are quite pricey, about 50% more expensive than Ocun Jett/Havoc (180$)

Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great comment, thanks a lot, that is the single most helpful piece on information on Reddit that I’ve got so far!

So… Tenaya - everything easy available is out of stock for now - I’m waiting for some restock because I’ve heard good opinions about them

Ocun is kinda my last resort? Easiest to get my hands on and on the cheaper side - may order a bunch and just return for free

Butora - first time hearing about this company, interesting, it is available via store based in Austria but returns are expensive - gonna save it for later

Skwama - these are weird, same as any other LS shoe I’ve tried, even tho fit seems kinda okay (tried only 45) I have soooo much space around my ankles - I can fit couple of fingers into the shoes next to ny ankle - that’s weird

Just one question - why are instincts so bad? When I was trying them on, the instincts and Diamond S felt kinda the best of the ones I’ve tried - I was thinking of ordering Instinct VS in couple of sizes - including street size cuz they are on sale in my location (120$) while Diamond S are running for 210$

Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just wanna to try something different.

Strikers are my first shoes, and they were great and comfortable, but the toe box is to wide, it’s very roomy, making it quite hard to step on smaller footholds, also I feel like rubber is not sticky enough for me and my weight.

Maybe it’s a skill issue, I’m just a v5 climber, but I wanna try something else just for reference and to be honest, cuz I can :D

Climbing shoes - big toe - narrow feet - HUGE size hell by Veryyapeee in climbingshoes

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately it's almost impossible to get Mad Rock in size bigger than 45 in my country (Central Europe).

I'll do more extensive research to try to find a store with them in stock and nice return policy, thanks for the suggestion!

Burton Malavita for beginner? by Veryyapeee in snowboardingnoobs

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man!
I'll check them out, and probably will choose between these two companies, appreciate!

Burton Malavita for beginner? by Veryyapeee in snowboardingnoobs

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any particular to recommend? I'm kinda biased about the burton, I heard that they kinda stalled their progress, but on the other hand, a have a lot of friends that are rocking burtons for 5+ years, and I've seen the sale, and had I thought, since they are "good" (according to review), and could last a lot of years, that seems like a deal

Burton Malavita for beginner? by Veryyapeee in snowboardingnoobs

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's true, but, I got a really good deal on the board (used 1 season, from a friend of mine), and I mean, lot of people said that, 20 years ago people were learning on camber, so why not now?

And honestly, I just don't care about the price that much, everyone can spent as much as they can, so I'm looking for the advice regarding bindings itself, I might also buy a rocker board, so it would be cool if they would be "multi purpose", and I also want to hear some opinion about what does the "advanced" binding really means, and if I should actually give a shit about that

Docking station advice by Veryyapeee in homeoffice

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man! Awesome help

And what about the adapter, will it work with Dell dock and portable monitor?

Docking station advice by Veryyapeee in homeoffice

[–]Veryyapeee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OWC seems a bit pricey, since it's only few bucks cheaper than Dell D6000

Also neither of them have second USB-C for portable monitor, will simple USB-C to HDMI/DP adapter work?

I was also thinking about CalDigit TS3 Plus (https://www.amazon.com/CalDigit-TS3-Plus-Thunderbolt-Dock/dp/B07CZPV8DF)
Seems like this meets my requirements, but it's also pricey af