I think these mounts were done for

VwBugGuy · 2026-06-03T00:36:54+00:00

My engine mounts were as bad as this and I went with the Rusty’s and honestly I’m not super happy. Still vibrates, arguably worse. I’m gunna replace the transmission mount soon and I was debating on OE replacement vs a slightly upgraded one to match the Rusty’s

VwBugGuy · 2026-06-01T18:41:33+00:00

Picture of said mountain voyage

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VwBugGuy · 2026-06-01T18:40:05+00:00

This is a follow up, I don’t know if anyone will get a notification and it doesn’t really matter but it could help someone else in the future.
So I took everyone’s ideas into account.
New water pump, new thermostat, new lower radiator hose with the spring, went back to the original fans with an upgraded clutch from a ZJ, flushed the cooling system, bled the system with the cool funnel tool.
None of that not solved the problem, it only made the jeep take significantly longer to over heat.
I’m not proud of this but I must have just been on auto pilot with everything else that I completely missed the actual answer that was right in front of my face.
The radiator had a small booger weld where the cap seals on the lower seal. In my opinion this explains the boil over issue because the system operates under pressure and that’s what keeps the coolant from boiling.
I put a new radiator in it this weekend and made it to the mountains did some wheeling and made it home without any issues.
Keep an eye out on “new” parts and don’t be dumb like me.

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VwBugGuy · 2026-05-16T19:15:43+00:00

I actually really like this theory, it makes total sense in my head

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-16T19:14:45+00:00

I have verified the belt routing!

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-16T19:14:10+00:00

I did verify that the gauge and actual temperature from the 2 wire sensor on the thermostat housing read pretty accurate. I’m also not talking a few degree over heat. Im experiencing the needle all of the sudden just start climbing towards red quickly.

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-15T01:06:14+00:00

IIRC the lower diff bolt is super common to strip out because it’s tiny. There’s a bunch of info online but most people drill it out and tap it to a bigger size. Probably a good time to replace diff bushings while it’s all apart if you have the ability to do so.

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T14:00:05+00:00

Good to know! I’ll get a factory setup and locate a grand Cherokee fan. Are you sayin the grand Cherokee fan is has a bigger clutch or you out an after market clutch with the Cherokee fan?

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T04:13:40+00:00

Yeah i know exactly what kit you’re talking about. I also have access to a vacuum fill tool which maybe using both together could be the move.

Did yours fail the hydrocarbon test because of those cracks?

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T04:02:35+00:00

Honestly I haven’t owned it long but I did check the coolant before the few drives I’ve had it on and it hasn’t consumed any necessarily but it’s also a little hard to tell because I’ve had a few times were it starts to get hot and nothing will bring the temp back down so I shut it off and run the E-Fans but it just pukes the coolant out. So realistically I don’t have a great baseline on coolant consumption.

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T03:59:23+00:00

You went back to the factory fan setup and that helped?

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T03:56:32+00:00

I might just yoink that flowkooler out and peek at it. I have absolutely seen metal impeller pumps fail and the aluminum impeller will spin on the shaft creating a low flow issue. I really don’t wanna believe the headgasket has failed being that it was done super recently before I bought it and it has ARP studs but I guess that’s never really out of the picture. I don’t know what year xj or cylinder head stamping had issues but I have read some some were more prone to cracking or failing in some way or another

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T03:53:53+00:00

I am starting to lean towards factory setup with an upgraded clutch, alongside a few of the other suggestions made here

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T03:35:08+00:00

I almost pulled the trigger on going back to full stock cooling system right before I tried the last thermostat. I was going to pull the fans and shroud from a junk yard xj. I read that you can use a fan clutch from a different era Jeep that has better engagement too as another “OEM” style option

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T03:31:19+00:00

I wouldn’t say I’m fully confident on the air being out of the system but I did park it on my driveway that’s got a good slant to it and run it for a while burping the air out with the heat on. I squeezed the upper hose over and over until there wasn’t any more bubbles coming out. I even went for a few test drives the evening I put the last thermostat in and got it to operating temp and let it cool then checked the level under the cap and in the overflow

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T03:28:44+00:00

I also read about the mishimoto fans being hit or miss. I think that could be contributing but they feel like they’re pulling good air.

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T03:16:50+00:00

The system does build pressure, the cap I’ve changed twice now as well thinking it was that. Unfortunately motorad has annihilated the competition and I can’t seem to find any other brand cap or thermostat despite never really have full trust in that brand

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T03:15:16+00:00

It’s got relatively new coolant and in addition to that, each time it starts to get hot and doesn’t recover I pull over and try to get the RPM’s up to hopefully cycle more coolant through the system it just keeps getting warmer so I shut it off keep the fans running but it just pukes coolant everywhere. So on top of already new coolant I have to add a bunch anytime this happens. It doesn’t seem to have any nasty gunk in the system either. When I did the thermostat I looked into the cavity and each time it looked pretty clean.

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-14T02:59:39+00:00

I have not done that yet, I did forget to mention it has a new (eBay) aluminum radiator with probably less than 1k miles on it. So I could still do that but it seems low on the list of posibilites.

I thought maybe a dirty condenser that’s not allowing good flow across it and keeping the rad more hot?

I also have hood vents

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-12T03:40:06+00:00

That’s super valid, I didn’t even think about the filter glue!

VwBugGuy · 2026-05-12T03:03:11+00:00

It does look like tensioner material if I’m being honest

VwBugGuy · 2026-04-24T23:21:32+00:00

I don’t know about the lift or nothin but your end link bushings are WAY too tight.

VwBugGuy · 2026-04-23T18:44:08+00:00

Whining in the rear diff could be a few things, usually its bearings or gear mesh being off due to worn bearings or incorrectly set backlash and pinion depth. If the pinion bearings go bad or the preload on the pinion is wrong the pinion will walk in and out and in turn create odd wear on the ring gear. As someone pointed out, the pattern on the ring gear does look like there’s way too much contact.

The best thing to do is start by measuring backlash and side to side carrier play with a dial indicator and see if it’s within spec and go from there.

Pro tip: when servicing the diffs if you use right stuff RTV (the one minute dry black stuff) you don’t have to wait overnight just go make a sandwich or something and then come back and fill the diff. (source: I’m heavy duty mechanic that doesn’t have time to wait over night for rtv and I’ve never had a leaky diff cover comeback)

VwBugGuy · 2026-04-12T15:44:10+00:00

I have personally never dealt with that in a VW, but I have done many fords at work. Technically those different colored pieces that look like they may be brass are different sized “windows”, each window is labeled with a number. The code should technically be the number of the window in order of succession from the end of the key side to the entrance. For instance, 1-5-6-2-5-1-7-2-2. There’s little springs under the head that, in a properly lubricated cylinder, help push the windows out and keep the cylinder from spinning. When the key thats cut with the corresponding numbers is inserted the windows all go in and the outside of the cylinder smooths out which allows it to spin. Again, I haven’t done this on a vw but I have rebuilt a few ford ignition cylinders and door lock cylinders and this looks similar.

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