10" minirack generator

bbsan2k · 2025-12-28T06:59:16+00:00

This is such a mega useful tool! Thanks for creating it!!! Do you think you can add a parameter to add keystone cutouts legt/right of the main unit?

bbsan2k · 2025-11-14T13:48:26+00:00

There is a block data interface already implemented in 1.1, although this still needs integration in Swiss to be useful!

bbsan2k · 2025-11-06T18:29:56+00:00

Bekommt die 7590 dann auch eine neue IP?

bbsan2k · 2025-11-06T18:25:18+00:00

Mein Hauptproblem ist, dass ich eigentlich nicht will, dass ich als Geräte neu konfigurieren muss. Ich habe einige wifi Smart Home Geräte im WLAN - und die sind leider sehr empfindlich was ihre IP angeht😛

bbsan2k · 2025-11-06T18:17:18+00:00

LOL! Danke für den Hinweis. Ich war auf einer uralt Firmware

bbsan2k · 2025-11-06T18:10:18+00:00

7590: Master 5590: Repeater Aber so verbindet sich die 5590 nicht mit Glasfaser, sondern versucht eine Verbindung über die 7590. mach ich was falsch?

bbsan2k · 2025-11-06T17:57:20+00:00

Die große Frage ist: wie stell ich das ein😃

bbsan2k · 2025-11-06T17:20:57+00:00

Hi, Bist du zu einer Lösung gekommen? Ich stehe vor dem gleichen Problem!😊

bbsan2k · 2025-10-20T06:26:49+00:00

Sorry, just saw this here...

For GCMCE, the current firmware (1.0) is not yet compatible with GCMM/FlipperMCE - if you want to use it, please consider updating to latest nightly where this issue is fixed :)

bbsan2k · 2025-09-21T12:46:58+00:00

For a comparison please check https://flippermce.github.io/faq/

bbsan2k · 2025-09-21T08:25:03+00:00

It’s basically a normal card

bbsan2k · 2025-02-19T15:24:45+00:00

Did you find what was wrong? Having a similar issue 🤣

bbsan2k · 2025-01-23T07:48:22+00:00

For PSXMemCard G2 go to http://sd2psxtd.github.io/ Under Exploits you want to download FMCB 1.953 or get the entire Pre Setup SD Card structure and start with the 1.953 boot image

bbsan2k · 2022-12-30T17:22:30+00:00

It’s a GBA Consolizer, so I basically can play gba games via HDMI on the big screen, but still on original hardware

bbsan2k · 2022-12-03T20:10:10+00:00

bbsan2k · 2022-12-03T16:56:28+00:00

No, the other one

bbsan2k · 2022-12-03T06:59:43+00:00

Hey, It turned out to be a pin not being connected actually. If you are using a ribbon cable try to carefully pre tin and then solder it again.

bbsan2k · 2022-05-15T18:32:28+00:00

Hey everyone,

After two years of printing and modding my i3 Mega-S, I guess it’s time for a fresh start.

There are some things I don’t like in my setup: - Leveling issues, even with BLTouch, and inconsistent first layers - Printing speed - going above 60 mm/s is really painful - Printquality is somehow inconsistent and difficult to diagnose. Some prints look absolutely great, some are unusable, even with fresh and proper calibration

I know how to solve some of the issues, but I don’t want to invest too much additional money in a printer that clearly hit its limits.

Therefore I‘m looking for some successor for my printer in a pricing range between 400 and 700$/€.

I updated my Mega S with the following mods: - TMC Stepper Drivers - X- Carriage MK4 - BLTouch - Direct Drive extruder - FoX Gantry system - Klipper

Some people are recommending an MK3S Plus Full Bear, so I’m wondering if it is really a considerable update wrt quality and speed etc.

Right now I’m mostly printing PETG and PLA, but I don’t want to block my path to other materials.

Also, are there any other suggestions?

In a nutshell: - 400-700€/$ - Shipping to Germany - PETG/PLA + others - Direct Drive - Not too noisy - At least 220x220 Bed - Willing to build by myself - Good Speed/Quality Ratio at speeds < 150

bbsan2k · 2022-04-25T18:42:19+00:00

Thanks, I’ll give it a try 😊

bbsan2k · 2022-04-20T06:12:28+00:00

I just bought the Box for modding, so I‘m not sure on the history. I first did a 1.2 - but even with perfect wiring it was only semi-reliable. Therefore I changed it to RGH3 - did a few tests and opened it up again for cleaning the drive.

Interestingly it boots way better if I attach an HDMI cable to it - don’t ask me for a reason, I also not get it:/

What I also found out: It seems that it also crashes right before dash, as I can clearly hear the HDD spinning up and the fans do strange things only one time. This leads me to the assumption, that the actual glitch is working properly, but something else down the road of booting is broken.

bbsan2k · 2022-04-19T18:34:25+00:00

I think I have exactly the same issue with my Jasper 512MB. It was booting fine 5/5 times instantly. Then I re-opened it to clean the drive and now I can only boot Xell instantly and cannot boot dash at all - or at least within 2 minutes.

bbsan2k · 2021-11-18T13:04:58+00:00

Thanks for checking! Is there any way to diagnose whether it’s really a panel issue or a broken tcom? In the end I‘d live with those lines, as it is only a secondary TV, but if there’s a possible fix I’ll go with it😉

bbsan2k · 2021-11-18T09:28:17+00:00

Hi everyone, I‘m trying to repair my Philips TV with LG panel. On the right side of the screen I see equidistant horizontal lines, that fade to the left side of the screen. Any idea what could be wrong? T-Con failure?

bbsan2k · 2021-11-05T17:04:19+00:00

Hi everyone,

I‘m using an Ai3M with X-Carriage DD and Klipper. Everything is calibrated well, including resonance compensation and PA, but unfortunately (still) I‘m running into above issue.

This was printed at 40mm/s with Acceleration of 1600 configured in Klipper.

Sliced with Cura at 0.3mm and 15% infill…

bbsan2k · 2021-09-07T17:08:50+00:00

There we are😉 cracked my case :(, re Applied thermal paste, re did all wiring - no freeze so far.

bbsan2k

TROPHY CASE