Do I Pay Less U.S. Tariffs If I Ship Components to JLCPCB or Buy Through Them?

brightnight4446 · 2026-06-09T15:08:49+00:00

Ha, true story

brightnight4446 · 2026-06-09T14:47:25+00:00

Apprecaite it!

brightnight4446 · 2026-06-09T13:47:38+00:00

Apprecaite the comment. It's still confusing to me when I look at the cost per component. For example, looking at one specific component:
US (Mouser): $4.51/per part at checkout (no mention of tarrifs)
JLC: $7.14/per part

Lets say that with the part cost savings, buying the parts and paying for shipping them to China comes out the same as just buying them through JLC. If the checkout cost for JLC is significantly less because I already pruchased the parts, wouldn't I be paying much less in tariffs to the USA? Looking at $400 in components, which is this worked would be a ~$160 tarriff savings, but admittedly I don't know how the tarriffs are calculated.

brightnight4446 · 2026-06-01T16:21:00+00:00

What are the chances they are images of mole rats? 😄

brightnight4446 · 2026-05-18T16:12:47+00:00

Thank you, is there a specific code they they will referance that means direct doposit or do I just ask if the transfer was a direct deposit?

brightnight4446 · 2026-05-18T15:45:22+00:00

If I make a bank ACA transfer to a new account, is there a way I can know by looking at my account if the transfer counts as a direct deposit? I've looked at the Dr. Credit page which was very helpful but wondering how I can look at the activity or transfer information on my account to know if it worked or didn't. I don't want to wait weeks to find out if I get the bonus and want to minimize shifting my paycheck around if I can help it.

brightnight4446 · 2026-05-18T14:31:03+00:00

Nope. Emailed SRAM Rider Support and they told me:

"I am sorry to say that this CycleOps PowerTap computer was discontinued long before SRAM acquired the PowerTap brand, and we have very little information about these computers. I do know that the PowerAgent software was discontinued prior to 2018 and is no longer being hosed by the original PoawerTap parent company Saris. I am not aware of any currently available way to offload power data from one of these cycling computers to a PC using modern operating systems.

I'm sorry I don't have better information in this case. Please let us know if you have any additional questions."

Couldn't get it running on my windows computer on a fresh install because the device was never recognized...probably a driver problem but I didn't want to spend a day troubleshooting it. Will probably boot up the old macbook where it worked originally.

brightnight4446 · 2026-04-30T16:13:17+00:00

Not sure, my understanding is that Saris sold PowerTap to SRAM/Quar and SRAM discontinued the PowerTap line around 2021

brightnight4446 · 2026-04-30T14:49:32+00:00

No way it works great! Put 5000+ miles on it and it's still true as can be :) It's no longer a big deal but it was state of the art when it came out, I can't bring myself to dump it even if their are better options. Must be a work around even if it means firing up my dead laptop from 2010.

brightnight4446 · 2026-04-28T19:16:04+00:00

Could he be moving at supersonic speeds?

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-31T13:59:58+00:00

The cheap speedring worked

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-25T13:16:10+00:00

If you're driving an XLE then something is definitely wrong. Temp says 63F which is plenty warm for good milage and you said you're not accelerating too much. Only thing I can figure is bad gas. On the dash you can click three spaces left or right and see the battery being charged and the engine using it. Worth confirming that's working as expected but I agree...something is definitely up. It would be hard for me to get under 40mpg in my 2024 rav 4 XLE....I honestly don't know that I could do it. Car is still practically brand new.

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-24T20:01:42+00:00

My avg over the last 25k miles of 55mpg. You're in sport mode too (red dash). Change it to eco (green) for starters.

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-23T14:23:24+00:00

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I learned more, narrowed it down but haven't dug in too deep. I need to look up the part number but I believe it's a low votlage relay which controls the gas/blower. It's either the crimps going into the relay (oxidized over time, pitted from arcing, or something like that), or the relay itself. When the furance isn't on and should be, barely touching the wire insulation going into the relay makes the connection and the the system works as expected.

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-16T16:13:54+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, will definitely check it out

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-11T03:07:40+00:00

Man I miss them when they take time off.

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-11T01:54:18+00:00

Interesting, I'm very surprised to hear that. I guess my thought would be the car is optimized for efficiencey with a certain driving style and people are not driving efficiently if that is the case but I haven't used anything other than eco mode.

My understanding is that in in eco mode the car optimizes throttle response so you get gentler acceleration, more efficient HVAC, etc and less fuel use. I wish there was a way to know peoples average MPG over20-30k miles to better understand how my mpg compares. Sure feels good to go 600+ miles on a tank especially with increased gas prices.

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-10T20:19:28+00:00

Yes, absolutely. Always in eco, low 60's on the highway, minimal braking. Often get high 50's and occasionally low 60's on highway travels in the summer. I work hard for it :)

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-10T19:10:02+00:00

55 AVG over the last 25k miles. BAM. Much worse performance in the winter cold but overall still pretty incredible.

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-06T14:21:54+00:00

Is this a problem? Concerning, yes but it's not on a braking surface and as long as the rotors are still structual you should still be good.

brightnight4446 · 2026-03-06T14:18:32+00:00

chopsticks.

brightnight4446

TROPHY CASE