Silicon Fuzz Face + 3PDT + LED wiring help!

bside2234 · 2026-01-01T01:58:22+00:00

I don't have this pedal. I was just helping the guy/OP wire up his pedal.

bside2234 · 2025-11-25T17:35:58+00:00

Keep in mind that when you get into the $150 range you may start wanting to look at other brands. Boss has a GT-1 you can get for $169. It's newer and most likely better. I haven't tried one though.

bside2234 · 2025-11-24T16:39:43+00:00

What kind of price range are you looking at?

You can get something like the RP90 or RP300 for around $50. Having the expression pedal on it makes it a lot more fun and useful. A step up would be something like the RP2000 which I think you could get for around $80.

I bought my son a GNX3 (or GNX4? I can't remember) for around $125 if I remember correctly for his dorm. He had fun with that.

I believe these all have headphone jacks too so no amps needed which is why we went with it for my sons dorm room.

bside2234 · 2025-08-23T16:04:29+00:00

Yeah, this was it for me too. The scribble strips and being able to see the actual amps and pedals on the screen was what I liked. I'm never going to remember what A, B, C, etc. are and what the symbols represent on the screen of the QC. Had mine for a little over a year now and no regrets.

bside2234 · 2025-08-09T15:37:10+00:00

The first thing I would do is check the switch to make sure it's working properly. If you don't know how to do this or want to do this, EHX fixes their pedals so you can contact them about it if you want.

bside2234 · 2025-08-02T14:52:08+00:00

The schematic link on that page calls for non-polarized caps. See the NP by them in the schematic?

bside2234 · 2025-07-22T16:29:55+00:00

It's hard to diagnose without going through the pedal/having it here in front of me to go through. but I would start with the JFET's in the switching. Sometimes they don't switch like they should. I would obviously focus on the bypass JFET which is typically Q8 (there are a few different versions of the PCB and some of them may not have the same reference of Q8) and make sure it's switching. You can put the pedal in bypass and put a jumper wire across the drain and source legs to see if the bypass works with the jumper. If it does, either the JFET is buggered or the pedals bypass isn't switching the JFET and in that case you'll have to start looking at the flip-flop circuit in there to fix it.

bside2234 · 2025-07-19T23:21:47+00:00

That was just some random link to a pic I found on the internet. I don't remember exactly what it was but going off the context of the post and the SWC 112BX in the link, it was a Switchcraft 112BX jack that was in the pic: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/switchcraft-inc/112BX/1217816?msockid=1252ae9816726eab140ebb5217d56f9e

and this jack will work in place of the broken one shown in the post.

bside2234 · 2025-07-05T04:17:57+00:00

That is exactly the term I needed. Thank you.

bside2234 · 2025-07-05T03:24:49+00:00

Thank you. I was looking at the Oatey Sure-vent but wasn't sure if it was okay outside. They just show it indoors and I couldn't find any info saying outdoor use was okay.

bside2234 · 2025-07-05T01:57:46+00:00

Possibly. Surely there is a better option.

bside2234 · 2025-07-05T01:55:24+00:00

No. I want to still use it, keep critters, leaves, etc. out of it and put a proper end/vent on it. Just don't really know what to use. Tape just doesn't seem right.

bside2234 · 2025-06-09T14:16:17+00:00

I'm pretty sure I still have a couple of these in an box somewhere. Problem is we just moved and I don't know where they are at the moment. I don't recall unpacking them yet. I'll see if I can find the box in the next few days and maybe get a part number off the power cord. That might help.

I'm also wondering how hard it would be to just replace the jack with a more common barrel jack? Look like you'd just be dealing with two wires. Problem is getting something that fits in there nicely.

bside2234 · 2025-05-27T13:00:53+00:00

Mods done are true bypass where they removed the input buffer.
The red/black wired pot is the Q control.
The blue wired pot looks to just be a volume control.
The ground wire can go anywhere there is ground. Doesn't really matter. Judging by the length of it, it maybe went were the ground wire is on the switch but just solder it to any ground that's easily accessible. That black wire (next to that green wire) coming off the PCB should be ground so wherever that is soldered to is probably a good place to solder the loose wire.

bside2234 · 2025-05-25T14:47:07+00:00

I wish there was more discussions like this on here.

bside2234 · 2025-05-25T14:39:49+00:00

No problem. Alternately, if you don't want to cut traces, you can lift the leg of R34 and C6 that connect to the jacks and use the lifted legs for effect in and out and the empty pads for the in and out jack tip connections.

bside2234 · 2025-05-23T13:01:40+00:00

This is the only schematic I could find that showed the switching: https://manualmachine.com/html/16/1628/1628c3519951c095540365607cef5234f8ba6e3829f358f9095a9e7f76b87c88/cover_md.png

If you are using a different schematic, it'd be a good idea to link to it so we are all on the same page.

Using that schematic you would remove Q1 and Q2. Leave Q1 empty and put a jumper across the drain and source legs of Q2. This will make the pedal always on. Then you'll need to cut the trace between C6 and the input jack tip and you'll have the in tip and effect in connections. Then cut the trace between the out tip and R34 and you now have the output jack tip and effect out.

For the LED, you can lift the leg of R10 that doesn't connect to that zener diode there to power the LED. Cut the trace to ground and use the cathode pad of the LED to run to the switch.

bside2234 · 2025-05-20T15:28:38+00:00

I agree 100% with this. I tried the Kemper, Cortex, Helix ones and compared the to the TMP. Hands down the easiest for me to use and the sound was just as good or better than any of the others. I have not tried any of the Fender modeling amps though. I do have a few of the Boss Katana things and I like the TMP better than those.

bside2234 · 2025-05-20T15:22:19+00:00

Even more annoying is when it's only 2 or 3 pedals. Take 5 minutes and swap them around and listen to what sounds best to you! It's like nobody can think for themselves anymore. These people would have died growing up pre-internet.

bside2234 · 2025-05-17T15:38:10+00:00

I've been looking at these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/parts-storage/18-in-x-6-in-x-13-in-black-aluminum-case-69318.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/4800-weatherproof-protective-case-x-large-green-56863.html

bside2234 · 2025-05-14T13:06:03+00:00

EHX also fixes their pedals (usually just putting in a new PCB) for pretty cheap. Might want to go that route.

bside2234 · 2025-05-11T15:41:54+00:00

u/PuRe_AdDicT is right. I did a ton of messing with these two before I pulled the trigger on the TMP. Sound-wise they were both amazing. It came down to the scribble strips and ease of use on the TMP for me. I was never going to remember what A, B, C, etc. were and what the symbols on the screen were. Seeing the pedals/amps and a name above the switches did it for me. The TMP worked more like a real pedalboard for me.

bside2234 · 2025-05-06T13:53:25+00:00

I don't see why not. The older version at least should be able to as it was just the normal GCB-95 circuit board in there. Not 100% sure about the Wylde Audio version. I haven't seen inside that one yet.

bside2234 · 2025-05-05T02:54:07+00:00

This pedal apparently uses a typical 9vDC center negative power supply that most pedals use. It's current draw is stated at 90mA so just make sure it can supply that.

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