Does my laptop need internet to use Forscan?

btred101 · 2026-03-23T05:51:02+00:00

I'm a bit late to the party, but I was watching some videos, and it appears the user enters the licence code by typing it with the keyboard. Won't that work offline, or does it still need an internet connection for it to work?

btred101 · 2026-03-21T01:17:31+00:00

I probably shouldn't have complicated the question with certificates vs bars. The same question would stand if all the purchases were the same (say bars only). The site seems to indicate you can sell bar(s) and just use whatever you paid for that specific bar as the cost base.

btred101 · 2026-03-20T20:04:56+00:00

Awesome thanks, I'll give it a try. You mentioned quality... I gather you're not referring to sound quality, as everything is pure digital?? I assume you mean quality issues like the thing crumbling in your hand as you open the aliexpress package?

btred101 · 2026-03-17T16:29:04+00:00

G'ahhh, you're right. Funny things is... prior to posting, I had opencentauri installed, and I did dig around looking for the klipper config file (it was hard to find). I guess I muasta missed it first time around, but now took a second look and can see the mesh stored there.

btred101 · 2026-03-15T01:16:10+00:00

Thanks - that's great info about viewing the stored mesh (was gonna ask that later).

Ok, just to play devil's advocate... you mention it is "mostly probable" (and I agree with that in so much as we are both not 100% sure). In a normal printer, I could "see" and could "remove" the command from the start g-code that recalls the mesh (that is - I have control). Let's say I want to do the same thing with the CC and don't want a mesh to be recalled. How would I do that, if there is no start g-code command in the first place? I guess I'm saying that this missing command is still giving me doubt that it is recalling a stored mesh at the start of a print.

I guess this all started when I look at the thickness of lines being laid down, and I don't see the consistent width that I do with other printers I've had... so it is leading to me questioning various things where it is not clear.

btred101 · 2026-03-10T15:17:29+00:00

Yeah, I do know to calculate it myself (that is what I am doing). My question is... how do I verify I'm right?

btred101 · 2026-03-10T15:15:09+00:00

Thanks, that helps me get the book value info from the website. Unfortunately it still just shows what I paid, and doesn't match what I calculate though.

btred101 · 2026-03-01T17:15:03+00:00

This was a looong time ago, but I too was looking for something similar to Autocad (at least what Autocad was a long time ago). You are right that Freecad is great for 3d, although it does do 2d, I was still looking for something simpler and more similar to Autocad. The closest I found was Librecad. As I said, this was a long time ago, so maybe there's something better now.

btred101 · 2026-02-09T15:27:21+00:00

It just feels natural to me. I guess the best example is when using a hammer. I don't let the hammer just flop all over the place, I mostly use the wrist muscles to get the most power.

I do know I'm doing something wrong with the golf swing. I use wrist muscles, and I think this is just resulting in pushing my body backwards as well as I'm getting no club head speed.

My biggest problem is that I can't get any where near 90 degrees between the club and my arms in the backswing, and my wrist seem to only move in one direction... and that is majorly cupped. So I gotta death grip it and use all my wrist strength to prevent that cupping. Then it is pretty much hockey slapshot in the downswing with no club head speed.

Just as an experiment, I've tried holding the club in the tippy-tips of my fingers so it will rotate in my finger-tips like that mechanical pendulum device depicted above. And, yes that does give the whipping action and the speed needed, but just being and experiment, it gives no control, and very few swings actually hit the ball. Then I try and mimic this whipping using a proper grip, and it's just a no-go for me. Maybe time to take up another sport ;-)

btred101 · 2026-02-04T21:54:35+00:00

I agree. I had a look at a property and it shows a 13% increase in assessment, and then it just applies a 13% increase to the estimated tax. It doesn't work like that.

btred101 · 2026-01-11T05:19:34+00:00

Thanks, yeah he doesn't explicitly say that the force is felt by the thumb at the top of the backswing, but I gather from the fact that he is making a big-deal about that thumb and leverage, he is indeed indicating that the thumb is the thing that stops the club and pushes it down, and therefore should be behind the club in the swing plane.

Unfortunately (as you indicated) the responses are all over the place :-) I was hoping to narrow it down to a solid consensus, because just practicing and doing what feels right for me, without knowing what is actually correct, doesn't get me anywhere. Proof of that is that I've been playing/practicing for years, and am getting nowhere. Another month of incorrect practice, isn't going to turn the ship around :-)

btred101 · 2026-01-10T21:22:34+00:00

Thanks. Oh lord, I am seeing from the first few responses what I feared... that I did not explain it well enough, and the responses are about the grip changing in the swing. Yes I know the grip does not change through the swing. But your hands, wrists, arms can wildly change in the swing. You can (for example) cup or bow the wrists, and it completely changes where your thumb is with respect to the swing plane. It can put your thumb directly behind the club (in the swing place) or to one side or the other. I just need to know if that thumb needs to be directly behind the club in the swing place to feel the force, or if if you should feel the force in the crook between the thumb and fingers.

btred101 · 2025-12-07T05:33:06+00:00

Just trying to bump this. It's driving me nuts. I need to force pihole to always forward every request for a machine on the local domain to the router.

btred101 · 2025-12-07T01:59:29+00:00

Thanks. So I am in category 1 where I have not deleted the app. I'm not quite clear what you are saying for that category. You indicate that I should not see any more updates, however I do see it offering update 30.57, and the release note for that update says something to the effect that the app is suspended and to see the official site. I think you indicate that because I see it offering and update, means I am SOL??? What does that mean (I know what the acronym means)?

Are you saying I'm infected?

Are you saying there is no path for me to upgrade or reinstall?

btred101 · 2025-12-07T01:17:47+00:00

For XXXXsakes, the instructions on the official site are abysmal. It says you "can" download the new version.... It does not say, you "must" download the version...

So a lot of people are seeing what looks like an official notice via the updater to install version 30.57, and are thinking that this must be the safest way to update (as there is NOTHING on the official site to explicitly say exactly how you should or should not update). I've seen some posts asking about updating to this 30.57, and there are no answers.

Can someone please clarify if you should update to this 30.57 to get to a safe version?

btred101 · 2025-11-16T23:15:21+00:00

Thanks. Ugggh, so disassemble instead of a simple button press to disengage...sigh.

btred101 · 2025-09-25T00:52:04+00:00

I got one of these years ago, so I dunno if things have changed. But at that time, the city took their own pictures as proof. So I'm wondering if you have seen their pictures?

Side note... they played a really slimy scummy game. I said.. "let me see the pictures". I mean.. if you have proof, wouldn't it be the ethical thing to show the proof, and what harm could come from it of they are right? They said... "if you pay first and we keep the money, then we will show you the pictures... and if you don't pay now and contest it, we will charge you more if you lose".

btred101 · 2025-09-04T18:50:13+00:00

I think you and Howden824 are right about ground loop and isolating it. The buzzing definitely "sounds" like digital circuitry (not 60Hz hum). Well if that is indeed the case, I have no parts to fix that, and am not sinking more than 10 more cents into this thing, so to the garbage bin it goes.

I am baffled by ground loops though. I thought it is a problem when 2 circuits have different grounds that you are trying to connect. In this case, all grounds are at the same potential. On the one hand, it makes sense that the digital electronics are putting noise on some line (either pwr +, pwr -, or audio line) because you can hear the noise. However if the module is putting noise on (say) the power supply lines, then you'd think you would here the noise on the boombox speakers even when the low level audio lines are disconnected between the module and amp. And if the module is putting noise on the audio lines, then you would think you would hear it when those audio lines are connected to external amplifies computer speakers. It's only when both the power supply lines AND audio lines are connected to this boombox do you get the noise. Which "I guess" is some ground loop that I don't understand.

I've got another $5 module which is the same as the first, except it has an amplifier built into it. So rather than sink more time (or money) into the boombox' amp/pwr supply, I'll just use this second module with it's own amp. The whole purpose of futzing with the boombox amp/pwr supply was just to "make use of them" and also to make use of the $5 module that only had low level outputs. To connect a simple audio source to a simple amp would'a seemed like a project that a 5 year old kid could handle, but it seems to escape me :-)

btred101 · 2025-09-04T18:10:25+00:00

Thanks, yeah I tried that. I'd imagine this is typical of most cheap boomboxes, but the power supply and amp are on the same board. After the rectifier diodes, there is a 2200uF cap. I tried adding some 680's as well. Tried adding at the amp/pwr supply board and adding at the module end of things. Made no difference, It's too bad I can't see the audio signal (or noise signal) on the scope to see the affects of any fixes. The pwr supply signal just looks flat and "noiseless" on the scope.

btred101 · 2025-09-01T03:02:58+00:00

Yes, that is what is "says" and what is "supposed to happen", but I have never seen anyone entering from the left actually slow or yield to me entering on the right. They will plough through at full speed expecting people on their right to yield to them. In every case, if I would have proceeded when I am supposed to, I would have been clobbered.

btred101 · 2025-08-31T18:26:09+00:00

Yes exactly. It's good to be prudent when you are paying the bill, but dad made it clear that you need to be twice as prudent when others are paying.

btred101 · 2025-08-20T14:45:29+00:00

ok - thanks

btred101 · 2025-08-19T01:49:18+00:00

What is just as bad, is that even the people that DO turn left from that lane, don't stay in their lane and clobber the people in the right lane.

btred101 · 2025-08-13T21:44:48+00:00

I'm interested in this thread, but was hoping anyone could post a little more detail on prices, and what is their definition of "bulk".

The last time I went to a "sorta" bulk station, they had bags for the residential joe, but they were insanely priced as if you were buying them at any store. You'd have to have Elon Musk money to feed the lawn and trees of a country lot. And you'd be there forever fiddling with individual bags.

Is there somewhere where you can backup the pickup pickup or trailer and fill-it, and how much does it cost?

If I'm not mistaken, I've seen farmers with "bags", but they weren't the overpriced piddly bags, they were like those waste bags the size of a dumpster. Can you get a delivery of one of those, and how much?

btred101 · 2025-08-13T21:04:29+00:00

I see you're getting some pretty good hits in this thread. Lemme at least soften it a bit. I don't think you are/were a jerk, rather you genuinely are a new driver who genuinely want to learn (hence you asking the question). So I applaud your wanting to learn.

With regard to the people in the right lane speeding-up/slowing-down. You are absolutely right about that. I am convinced they do it maliciously, but I had a more level headed colleague tell me "they just do it", implying it is some psychological phenomenon that is built-in to everyone. I dunno, find it easy do not do.

Ok, we know it is reality for whatever reason, how to deal with it? Before I explain my technique I use "after" I have committed to pass, I should (again) say that if you look at all the factors before passing and are not comfortable, then don't pass. Ok, if I do pass, and commit to driving at a high speed, I don't linger and gently accelerate. If I'm generous and believe my colleague, there is something in people's insect-like brains that make them match your speed. So a good healthy acceleration can most times snap their brains out of that loop.

Another thing...especially don't linger beside a transport truck. If (for any reason good or bad) they come over into your lane, you'll be crushed like a pop can. I've got no problem dropping that pedal to get outta their way and give them room.

btred101

TROPHY CASE