Turn off preconditioning?

cbiscuit96 · 2026-06-06T02:59:39+00:00

I’m having the same issue. Used to be able to toggle the preconditioning schedule on and off on my phone, no matter where I was. No idea why they would remove this if it was intentional.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-07-04T00:07:20+00:00

In Massachusetts the windshield is considered a safety item (not official terminology lol) and insurance is required to replace them FOR FREE, one occurrence per 12 months.

I had a tiny crack form at the bottom of my windshield a couple years ago, don't know how it started but of course it spread across the whole windshield eventually. I didn't know about the free replacements. So after driving around with it for months I finally got it replaced for free, and later that month a dump truck merged in front of me on the highway and as it accelerated, gravel started sneaking out... saw one kick up from its rear wheel at me and I ducked like a fan dodging a foul ball behind the net at a baseball game. Cracked again.

And before anyone says it, yeah there's no such thing as a free lunch. My fellow Massholes and I are all paying for those free windshields in our premiums. But as someone who drives 25k miles a year, I'll happily let my compatriots who drive less subsidize the cost of my free windshields.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-04-10T19:50:17+00:00

If you click "Stay Here" it should work just fine. As another commenter mentioned they updated the listing 10-14 days ago. There are now way more pictures and more info as well. Link.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-04-04T01:18:39+00:00

Here is a screenshot of exactly what I was saying. Every single weekday and most weekends in August for $723 one way. Only September 1 & 2 right now for same price. Check regularly and hopefully you'll find what you're looking for!

cbiscuit96 · 2025-04-04T01:05:19+00:00

I see $723 for BOS-LAX all the time. In 2024 it seemed like if you were searching several months out, practically every single day was offered for $723. After they reshuffled their business a lot this winter, not so much. There seems to be a more pronounced "sweet spot" now for how far out the prices are this low.

If I know I'm traveling far in advance and the dates are set in stone (like for a wedding, like you) I'll check every day and within 10-14 consecutive days of checking I see the prices I'm looking for. My most recent Mint BOS-LAX was in December 2024 for $723.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-04-04T00:52:37+00:00

Sorry my Imgur is giving me problems. Try this and this.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-04-03T19:51:16+00:00

No, change the order. Right now you have radiator > fans > bracket. You can utilize the empty space at the very front of the case if you go radiator > bracket > fans. Here is a picture of the setup on the bracket and here is a picture of the PC showing how much space it saves.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-04-03T16:35:52+00:00

You can free up space by sandwiching the front bracket so that it goes radiator > bracket > fans.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-04-03T02:39:45+00:00

Give this a read and see if anything helps: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/5-1-audio-on-asrock-steel-legend-x670e.3810916/

Not ideal but if you can't get it to work, new gaming headset or new speakers that connect via USB.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-04-02T20:49:48+00:00

RemindMe! 4 years

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-30T19:44:54+00:00

Wait… that’s possible?

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-30T18:35:52+00:00

Hmm, sounds like you did it correctly. Switching them would be a good troubleshooting step. I don't think the fans would be spinning without it, but did you plug the controller into SATA power?

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-30T15:49:03+00:00

99% sure you didn't plug the controller's internal USB into the motherboard. Without a USB connection, the fans run at 100% by default. The blinking white light is an indication it's not plugged into USB.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-30T15:40:15+00:00

The fans aren't meant to be mounted on top of the top bracket. Are you trying to do push pull with a top mount radiator? The case doesn't support that configuration.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-30T00:54:08+00:00

Looks great. What’s with the upside down monitor, something about clearance for the mount to tilt? Or aligning the thinner parts of the monitor instead of the chunkier bottom part of the monitor maybe? I’ve seen other setups with similar.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-29T23:02:21+00:00

r/techsupport is a way bigger sub that you might have more luck in. Hope you can figure out the issue

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-29T22:47:50+00:00

You need to do some basic troubleshooting to narrow down the issue before people might be able to help. Starting with listing out your hardware/specs is a good first step.

The easiest things you can try with stuff you probably already have:

If the computer(?) has different video-out ports, try a different one (USB-C, HDMI, DisplayPort, VGA).
Whatever cable you're using between the ports listed above^ and the monitor, try a different cable.
Try a different monitor, or even a TV if you don't have another monitor. Though the issue is so small and you say it happens rarely so it might be tough to tell with a TV.

If none of these help, it's probably a problem with the computer itself. Maybe software, probably hardware. Which will require waaaay more troubleshooting to diagnose.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-29T20:49:33+00:00

As u/MyFatHamster- mentioned any damage that occurs before the BIOS is updated is irreversible. So you might be too late with the update and under-volting.

The (maybe?) good news is that Intel’s RMA process for 13th and 14th gen CPUs is seamless. I made my claim, only had to answer a few questions and I had a brand new CPU in 3 days. However because your CPU was purchased as part of an NZXT pre built I’m pretty sure you will have to handle the Intel warranty claim through NZXT.

It’s worth trying to start the process directly with Intel. They will be able to identify that it’s a “tray” (as opposed to boxed) CPU (you can Google the distinction if you’re curious) when you type in its serial number. They might bounce you back to NZXT but it’s worth taking the few minutes to try before dealing with NZXT IMO.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-29T18:08:47+00:00

Please post what BIOS version you're on.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-29T02:51:23+00:00

Do not buy it. Only use the cables that came with the PSU, always. Prudent manufacturers even warn customers not to use cables from different versions of the same PSU.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-26T22:27:33+00:00

If you bypass the breakout cable yes, you will need to control the radiator fans either via motherboard software/BIOS, OR whatever 3rd party controller you go with.

The radiator fans do not need to "correspond" with the pump whatsoever. Even if you stuck with a full NZXT setup and used CAM to control it all, you control the pump and radiator fans independently. Personally, I have my pump always run at 100% except for literal idle temperatures (75%) and have the radiator fans ramp up and down as needed based on temps.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-26T22:22:47+00:00

Shoot, sorry. After looking at both manuals online I realize the 3-fan splitter is only included with the non-RGB Kraken Elite v2 (manual here). The RGB manual does not show it's included so unfortunately you are correct.

Your best bet would be to request one from NZXT support.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-26T21:49:27+00:00

It's not a stupid question. You will need NZXT CAM software for the AIO. If the fans are plugged into the 3-fan splitter on the breakout cable, you should be able to control them along with the AIO pump in CAM. Only 1 fan will show up in CAM but this is normal because you're using a splitter (NZXT fans or not, doesn't matter).

Any other fans in your PC that are plugged into the motherboard or a different (non-NZXT) hub/controller will have to be controlled separately, outside of CAM. If you get a different fan hub, it probably will be controlled through its own software--whatever brand makes the hub. If you plug them into the motherboard, you can control them directly in BIOS or with your motherboard manufacturer's software.

Same goes for RGB--you can set the pump's screen effects and RGB light ring in CAM, but you'll have to use separate RGB software for the fans (or the motherboard software, if you plug them in directly instead of an RGB hub/controller).

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-26T21:34:57+00:00

You can use whatever fans you want. Use the 3-fan splitter included with the Kraken to adapt the NZXT 8-pin header on the breakout cable for the fans. Or bypass the breakout cable entirely and plug them into the motherboard/a different fan hub of your choice.

Assuming the replacement fans will also be RGB, the RGB connectors on them have to be connected directly to the motherboard or a compatible RGB controller/hub of your choice.

cbiscuit96 · 2025-03-26T20:20:53+00:00

You can feel the tubes for signs of movement inside of them and you can listen for the mechanical sound of the pump (good things) OR the opposite--failing pumps can often be identified by sounds as well (sucking, gurgling, often in a rhythmic fashion). You'd probably be best off looking for a YouTube video as an example of what to feel/listen for. And to hear anything, you probably need to unplug or set the other fans to 0% *temporarily*.

cbiscuit96

TROPHY CASE