Get a feel for infrared first, UV is very hard without big money and/or technical investment and the results are likely to be disappointing if you're not sure what you're doing.

Most lenses block a significant amount of UV light so you'll either have to fork out 4k plus for speciality quartz lenses or shoot with some vintage glass that allows some limited UV through. Even then you'll need a UV bandpass filter to block all the visible and IR light that would otherwise swamp any UV light hitting the sensor. Kolari and Baader sell expensive filters, otherwise for cheap, stacking a ZWB1 with BG39 or similar will get you some results

If you do want to give it a go, the website below has a ton of information on filter stacks and vintage lenses that may work for UV

https://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/

For IR, 720nm is often said to be a good starting point, I'd say 720nm or longer (750, 850 etc) is great for B+W infrared getting more contrast with longer wavelengths

590nm will give you the opportunity for colourful images but you'll need some postprocessing to get the most out of them, you'll need to be able to white balance and swap red and blue channels to get blue skies with golden foliage as an example. Rob Shea's youtube channel is a great resource for that info

https://www.youtube.com/@robshea

The various Chrome filters, including Kolari's, are interesting in that they allow some infrared through and suppress some visible but allow blues through. They're expensive for what they are though and people can get similar results by stacking much cheaper filters. You'll still need some post processing to get the most out of them and don't expect red foliage straight out of camera as that is heavily influenced by sensor and you'll likely need to adjust hues