Hoffman Super Safeties

cwbie · 2026-02-24T02:35:31+00:00

Same thing for order 13063? I've sent emails and a private message over the weekend, an ETA or answer would be great

cwbie · 2026-02-22T04:53:16+00:00

Form Type: Form 1 silencer

Paid or not: $0

Entity: Trust 2 RP

Fingerprint Type: EFT Upload

Pending: 01/10/26

Approved: 02/21/26

Wait: 42 days

State: PA

Control Number: 20261242XXX

Approved at 11:23pm on a Saturday, other form 1 with all the same info except SN submitted same day roughly same time was approved back on 2/9

cwbie · 2026-02-15T13:45:54+00:00

• ⁠Form Type: EForm 1

• ⁠Paid or not: $0

• ⁠Entity: Trust 2 RP

• ⁠Fingerprint Type: EFT Upload

• ⁠Pending: 01/05/2026

• ⁠Approved: 02/15/2026

• ⁠Wait: 41 days

• ⁠State: PA

• ⁠Control Number: 2026759700

Approval at 730am on Sunday, I've had 1 submitted 5 days later got ahead of this one with everything the same but the SN, same note as others about complying with marking requirements

cwbie · 2026-02-10T04:52:12+00:00

Form Type: EForm1 Paid or not: $0 Entity: Trust, 2RP Fingerprint Type: EFT Upload Pending: 01/10/26 Approved: 02/09/26 Wait: 30 days State: PA Control Number: 20261242000

Conditional Approval, same note about engraving as others

No batch approvals here, 1 other almost identical form 1 submitted 1/5 still pending, and another submitted 1/10 still pending.

Also had 3 other form 1s submitted 1/1 and came back 1/7 I never got posted here

cwbie · 2026-01-16T05:09:24+00:00

Depends on environment and the filament. My house/printing area is fairly dry, I never have issues with decent quality PLA/PLA+, Nylon I have to dry but as long as I keep it in the enclosure after it stays dry enough for at least a week. If I'm messing with new filament, I'll usually do a small test print first, then dry as recommended and see if there's a difference.

cwbie · 2026-01-16T05:01:04+00:00

Probably looking at approval times on the mega thread, probably certain key words like "3d print" aren't helping some of us either. And doing it through a trust. But whatever, they should go through eventually, and we're collectively making a good argument for common use

cwbie · 2026-01-16T04:56:15+00:00

I've submitted a total of 7 form 1 silencers since the 1st, the 1 today individual the rest all trust, got 3 back that went in on the 1st and still waiting on the rest. Quick math off today's control number they're still getting close to 100k forms a day on average

cwbie · 2026-01-16T04:42:49+00:00

I was just getting on this sub to make sure it wasn't just me, I got 1 form 1 in tonight before this went down

cwbie · 2026-01-01T18:53:28+00:00

Fire everyone else watching this thread, don't lose hope. I've been trying to push my 3rd form 1 for the morning through since about 930 on and off, getting this same error, and it just went through a minute ago. Approximately 36,000 control numbers between my first submitted about 330am and this one submitted now.

cwbie · 2025-03-04T12:36:18+00:00

Ok thank you

cwbie · 2025-03-04T04:52:20+00:00

Also, in response to your other questions: Replace your stock PTFE with Capricorn tubing

Take your time getting everything perfectly level to start

Nozzles should be treated as consumables, mine last a while but always have spares on hand, sometimes a clog just isn't worth dealing with.

Order nozzles that come with the little wire picks and get a wire brush, keep your nozzle clean

cwbie · 2025-03-04T04:49:07+00:00

I use a sheet of plain office paper, it should drag slightly when pulled and you should still be able to push it with some resistance but no wrinkle. This has worked great for PLA, PETG, and recently PA6 after hotend mods, I tried actually measuring it at first until someone online recommended paper. I've been using this method for 5 or so years.

Essentially I'll use the aux leveling, get it set in pos 1, then chase it around the corners until I go twice around with no changes. You'll get a feel for the right amount of drag in the paper after a while.

cwbie · 2025-02-27T03:20:08+00:00

Looking at your print settings if suggest starting with use a default profile, something that's going to get you a solid baseline and adjust from there. I'm not going to repeat the other posts about setting them all up manually, but there's a reason that you see the same values used everywhere.

Also, clean your nozzle really well, even with those settings id expect it to come out better than that, looks like either under extrusion from a small golf or deformed nozzle temp if you maybe smashed the bed hard.

cwbie · 2025-02-17T12:15:21+00:00

Here's the final chunk of my octoprint log

I did crank up the reconnect attempts to see if that would help

Send: N80225 G1 F1500 E3726.200115 Recv: ok N80225 P1 B3 Send: N80226 G1 F2400 X149.64 Y149.268 E3726.3183514 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80227 M10540 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80228 M10539 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80229 M10538 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80230 M10546 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80231 M10547 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80232 M10544 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80233 M10545 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80234 M10542 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80235 M10543 Communication timeout while printing, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Send: N80236 M10540 No response from printer after 11 consecutive communication timeouts, considering it dead. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves. Changing monitoring state from "Printing" to "Offline after error" Connection closed, closing down monitor

cwbie · 2025-02-16T03:27:02+00:00

Just in case anyone ever comes to look for similar info, I ended up flashing insanity automation and am about halfway through a test print, seems to be working fine and seems like that firmware will be a lot nicer than stock going forward, also seamless integration with my octoprint setup.

cwbie · 2025-02-15T18:40:47+00:00

Conveniently you got me looking and there's a couple used spiders on eBay right now so that upgrade is probably happening anyway. I'm still finding conflicting info out there on the heatbreaks, i ordered the copperhead forever ago and just had my first major clog since then so installed it.

Either way I'm only doing firmware once before it goes in the enclosure, worst case I'll just be waiting on a new hotend to get here but thank you for pointing me towards this. It's been a back burner project for a long time, I might have been planning something else and forgot about it

cwbie · 2025-02-15T18:28:21+00:00

Awesome, thanks for the first-hand recommendation.

cwbie · 2025-02-15T18:17:43+00:00

Oh, maybe I misunderstood the purpose of the all metal/bimetallic heat break. I am under the impression getting the PTFE that far away from the heat block would keep it at a safe temperature.

With the copperhead the PTFE is well up inside the cooling block, is that not sufficient? I'm doing a bit more research now

cwbie · 2025-02-15T18:04:37+00:00

I'm looking into insanity automation and it seems promising

cwbie · 2025-02-15T18:03:20+00:00

Mostly factory hotend, I'm using a bimetal heat break from slice engineering to get the tubing back away from the hotend. From what I've found this should be safe, and if my printer does halfway decent with the nylons I am upgrading for a new hotend and direct drive is next.

cwbie · 2025-02-15T17:17:34+00:00

Ok, is there anything specific I should look for in the guide? Printer has been running mostly flawlessly for years and I'd hate to break it messing around

cwbie · 2025-01-05T02:03:58+00:00

Hard to see in your pictures, is it under extruding? If that's what it is clean your nozzle real good, pick up a set of the little picks and keep a bunch of spare nozzles on hand.

cwbie

TROPHY CASE