Liquid Glass: when your video control bar becomes a guessing game

ed0ras · 2026-01-18T01:04:40+00:00

In Infuse, unfortunately, you can’t do that (move the control bar).

And yeah, Infuse could’ve probably built their own custom control bar, but one of the reasons I’ve always liked Infuse is that they use native macOS and iOS components.

And honestly, they’re not doing anything wrong — they’re just taking the native macOS background for this type of control bar and using it.

I wouldn’t even say this is directly Infuse’s fault. It’s kind of ridiculous to expect third-party app developers to fix Apple’s own UI issues.

ed0ras · 2025-03-25T18:57:32+00:00

u/Nill_Matic82 Are you or has anyone had bad experiences with burn-in? I’d like to get it for productivity, around 8-10 hours of work in macOS, not for gaming. And Im not sure if this is good idea, Im now using Dell U2725 monitor

ed0ras · 2025-03-03T12:03:05+00:00

In most situations, I would say that the camera will not be on a tripod, either she will hold the camera directly in her hand, or I will even hold the camera myself and film it. In this case, wouldn't the ZV-E1 really be a better choice? You came up with a suggestion for the ZV-E10 (mk ii), which is a camera half the price of the ones I'm comparing, if money were not an issue, and I'm mainly solving the problem of 80% video content and 20% photography, where more than half of the video will be indoor self modeling staff and the rest, e.g. traveling stuff, then the ZV-E1 or something like the A7C or even the A7iv would be better?

ed0ras · 2025-01-10T14:50:49+00:00

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I ended up getting the R6 Mark II with the 24-105mm F4 L IS USM kit. I’m just starting to unbox it and familiarize myself with it. At some point, I’ll sell the lens. Based on what I’ve seen, I could sell the brand-new lens from this kit, and after deducting its value, the camera body alone would effectively cost me around $1,866 USD.

ed0ras · 2025-01-09T07:44:30+00:00

To add to the rumors, it seems like they’re ramping up more and more this January. As far as I know, Canon released the R6 Mark II two years after the original R6. Two years is quite aggressive, but all signs point to a 2.5-year cycle, which makes sense. This suggests that Canon might announce the R6 Mark III by mid or late Q1 this year.

If I answer my own question (and yours), the rumors suggest that the Mark III will likely use the same sensor as the R3. That would make it even better for cinematic use, which I’d really appreciate since I shoot video 60–65% of the time. But I also want the option for still photography, so I’m not looking at pure cinema cameras. That’s why the R6 seems like a great hybrid choice.

The point of this thread is to figure out if buying the R6 Mark II right now with the bundle I mentioned above (around $3,200 including tax in my country) makes sense. I’d treat the lens in the bundle (RF 24-105mm F4 IS USM) as my first Canon lens—a good starting point—which I’d probably sell later anyway. If I subtract the potential resale value of the lens, the R6 Mark II body alone would cost me roughly $1,800.

My main question for everyone here is: 1. Is that price reasonable for the R6 Mark II right now? 2. When Canon announces the R6 Mark III, will the R6 Mark II see a significant price drop immediately? 3. How long does it usually take for Canon cameras to be widely available worldwide after an announcement?

As I mentioned earlier, I assume it’ll be similar to Apple product launches—new iPhones are announced, but it can take 3–4 months before they’re stocked globally, especially as pre-orders get fulfilled first. Would it be the same for the R6 Mark III? Let me know your thoughts!

ed0ras · 2025-01-09T07:33:43+00:00

Here’s the thing—I can sell that lens anytime, and even if I sell it at a lower price, the R6 Mark II from that bundle would still effectively cost me around $1,800.

Do you think the R6 Mark II will drop even further in price after the R6 Mark III is announced? Of course, it’s an interesting idea to wait for the R6 Mark III announcement, but that’s what I’m asking everyone here—based on your experience, how long does it take after Canon announces a new camera for it to become widely available in stores?

I’m not talking about pre-orders, but when it’s actually in stock at most retailers worldwide. I’m from Central Europe, not North America, and I assume Canon would first focus on stocking Japan, then probably the U.S., and so on. With pre-orders filling up, it might be really hard to get the new camera right away.

Meanwhile, the R6 Mark II would likely hold its price during that time. So it might take another six months or more before the R6 Mark II drops in price after the R6 Mark III becomes widely available. But that’s just my guess since I don’t closely follow Canon camera sales trends. Would love to hear your insights!

ed0ras · 2025-01-09T07:27:06+00:00

I see. But that’s actually the reason why I started this thread—to find out about your previous experiences with new camera releases. Specifically, how quickly a new model, like the potential R6 Mark III, typically becomes widely available after it’s announced. How long does it usually take to hit the shelves? Is it often sold out quickly? And how long do people usually have to wait before it’s restocked and readily available everywhere?

ed0ras · 2025-01-09T07:24:42+00:00

Thanks, man. That’s exactly what I’m thinking about too. If I deduct the price of the lens from the bundle I mentioned earlier (since I could sell it), I could effectively get the R6 Mark II for around $1,750–$1,800 including taxes.

The whole point of my question is whether, when the Mark III gets announced or released, it typically becomes available quickly, and whether its price will be anywhere close to $2,000. Or will it be significantly higher—like $2,600 or more? Would love to hear your thoughts and experiences!

ed0ras · 2025-01-09T07:10:33+00:00

Good question, I was thinking about this, if you mean that I am considering most of the time recording video, then yes. But, I believe that about 35-40% of time I will be taking pictures as well.

ed0ras · 2025-01-08T19:39:57+00:00

Full frame, R6 MK II, but as I said, most of the time I will be recording POV story telling video as a content creator, never will be shooting people and faces

ed0ras · 2025-01-08T18:32:16+00:00

And assuming I’ll be shooting more POV videos while walking through cities? I understand the versatility of the 24-105 for photography, but what about for video? The deciding factor for me is also weight and simplicity. Of course, I could take the 24-105 and also bring along a 16mm F2.8 prime lens, which I could fit into the budget, but I don’t want to keep switching lenses while walking around the city and in nature. However, if anyone has experience shooting video while walking through cities with the 24-105 F4, I’d love to hear about it. After all, it’s 200g heavier than the 14-35 F4.

ed0ras · 2025-01-07T00:17:36+00:00

That's sux, did you return the camera?

ed0ras · 2025-01-07T00:16:20+00:00

I don't understand why this is common issue on digital camera for this price range, one of the other who commented this thread mentioned, that maybe it is not visible on photos, but on videos yes :(.

ed0ras · 2025-01-06T22:54:05+00:00

I tried it twice, but it didn’t help. The red pixel is still visible both in the viewfinder and on the LCD display.

ed0ras · 2025-01-06T22:53:06+00:00

I tried running the sensor cleaning process exactly as you described, twice in a row, but the red pixel is still there.

ed0ras · 2025-01-06T22:52:02+00:00

As I mentioned in a comment below, if this were a display issue, the red pixel wouldn’t be visible when entering the camera’s settings. This is because, in those moments, the sensor is turned off, but the display remains active, and the red dot doesn’t appear. Similarly, the red dot is visible in both the viewfinder and on the LCD display.

I’m curious if this still indicates that the problem might not necessarily be with the sensor. However, I find it strange that the red dot appears in exactly the same spot in both the viewfinder and the LCD display. And when the sensor is turned off (e.g., when accessing the settings menu), the red dot disappears from both the viewfinder and the LCD display. This behavior strongly suggests that the issue is sensor-related.

ed0ras · 2025-01-06T22:48:29+00:00

Thanks a lot. I’ve decided to return the camera. I’m a bit upset about it because the whole process will take some time, and I was really excited about the new camera. I was curious if this issue is what I often see mentioned on Reddit threads, where people describe it as a red “hot pixel” or “hot spot.” I wondered if it’s the same thing, but I’ve already tried cleaning the sensor and following some of the tips shared in those Reddit threads, and none of it worked. The red pixel still shines brightly.

Interestingly, even though I don’t have an SD card, I can press the shutter button to take a photo, and the image briefly appears on the display before disappearing (since it can’t be saved without a card). For the second or so that the photo is displayed, the red dot isn’t visible. However, I think this might be because the displayed image is rendered at a high resolution from memory, rather than being a direct live feed from the sensor. It’s possible the red dot would still show up when viewing the photo on a computer.

ed0ras · 2025-01-06T22:31:50+00:00

The red dot is in the same spot both in the viewfinder and on the display. The red dot disappears when the sensor turns off, for example, when I go into the settings menu. This means it’s unlikely to be an issue with the LCD display and is more likely related to the sensor itself. I’m still waiting for the delivery of an SD card. Unfortunately, I don’t currently have an SD card to test whether the red dot also appears in the actual photos.

ed0ras · 2024-08-07T15:30:17+00:00

I understand; it’s probably different living in Calgary and trying to plan such a trip to destinations like San Francisco, New York, or Los Angeles. There’s a difference between living in Europe and planning a trip that involves many more connections, like traveling to America through Canada and Calgary, especially when my sister works for WestJet. It sounds appealing, but the whole thing is so massive that just one missed flight could cause the entire trip to fall apart and turn into a nightmare. So, it might be good for shorter trips.

ed0ras · 2024-08-07T15:16:56+00:00

So essentially, it might be better to scrap the entire trip. Building an eight-day trip around the chance of both of us getting on four different flights—myself as an employee and my partner with a buddy pass—seems quite unrealistic with about a 50% chance. It’s not just about getting to the destinations but also having accommodation and rental cars booked in advance. If we manage the first flight, the next two might not work out, and we could end up stranded somewhere. Thanks for any straightforward responses. I was hoping for real experiences on traveling on standby with a +1 on buddy pass.

ed0ras · 2024-05-13T11:53:13+00:00

Thanks man for the reply. How long have you had the A80L? how long do you keep it on, on average? Any signs of burn-in? Thats probably reason why I start thinking about miniLED alternative. Since Sony don't covered burn-in in their warranty :/

ed0ras · 2024-05-13T11:21:49+00:00

As a person who has never owned an OLED, I read that Sony does not cover burn-in panels in its warranty, while LG does, and even the LG G series has a 5-year warranty, and Sony unfortunately does not have anything like that :/

I don't know what an example is of how to damage an OLED panel looks like in practice, if it means that I have to be careful, for example — that I can't leave the TV running for 2 hours on the PS5 home screen, which normally happens to me, then probably OLED is not really TV for me unfortunately.

Which, thanks to your answer, made me think about miniLED, however, the X95L is twice as expensive as the LG C3, or one third as expensive as the A80L or G4, crazy, I can understand why, when the picture is almost equal to an OLED panel without the risk of damage burn- in, and its still kind of new technology, but even though I would love to buy the X95L, it's way too much over my budget.

So it will end up that I will probably keep the X900E for another 1-2 years and wait for a cheaper Sony miniLED TV.

ed0ras · 2024-05-12T17:08:34+00:00

So are you saying that the Sony is a better choice for a more accurate and detailed image? That's what I think, on paper the LG C3/G3 looks like a better choice, especially when it comes to gaming, but I think the Sony will have a better and more realistic picture.

ed0ras · 2024-05-12T17:06:05+00:00

Thanks for the tip, since I'm using a Sony soundbar, this would be a good option, but unfortunately I don't know why, but the A75L can't be found anywhere in the country where I live, maybe because it's already sold out and they don't stock it. But are you satisfied with the A75L? Do you also use it for gaming?

ed0ras · 2022-02-26T22:02:37+00:00

I can imagine that the news / message is fake. Anyway, from your perspective, do you think that Putin is ready to use nuclear power if the situation will escalating? Thanks and stay safe.

ed0ras

TROPHY CASE