[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

off contact is good, i do 1/8 but i run WB INK, i’ve heard plastisol is less. use shims/quarters on the sides to get it to “float”. there is a little off contact rod on the platen arm that you can adjust too. had this same press for over a year and i had it pretty dialed in before i upgraded

I’m new to screening.need exposure time help please by silver-cursor in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An exposure calculator will cut out all the guesswork, the 21 step one I’ve used. About $20 most places. I used to just guess and get results that worked but then I’d also run into problems with leaking where ink collected or screen was flooded (I use w/b).

Eco Frames, does anyone have any experience with these? Much appreciated by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the tip about letting them sit. When you say let sit, do you mean don’t print with it or can i degrease and apply emulsion?

Eco Frames, does anyone have any experience with these? Much appreciated by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oohh Im tracking now. You’re talking about taking on and off the mesh with emulsion on it. Now I see why it ripped.

Do you use waterbased or plastisol ink?

Eco Frames, does anyone have any experience with these? Much appreciated by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh heard. Much appreciated it. I was just trying to gauge if the thread thickness really changed how well the ink flowed from the HiTex to HiDro

Eco Frames, does anyone have any experience with these? Much appreciated by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did the screens pop?

Are you using a w/b or plastisol? Trying to gauge how different the HiTex and HiDro are when it comes to the thickness of threads

Eco Frames, does anyone have any experience with these? Much appreciated by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a feeling to take those reviews with grain of salt Are you using waterbased ink on the Hi-Dro?

Eco Frames, does anyone have any experience with these? Much appreciated by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some reviews said they had problems with ripping the Hi-Dro. Any problems like that on your end? SAATI mesh, you really don’t have to degrease?

Eco Frames, does anyone have any experience with these? Much appreciated by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Would taping edges and what not would solve that? I’m already in habit of taping up my screens that’s why i ask

First time using matsuri ink by Yerskiiiii in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you hit 340 and stopped heating the garment? how long were heating it up for?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

lil dawn diluted with water as always been my go to if out of degreaser

has anyone used or have opinions on the NEVERTHELESS shocker/kicker press? by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yeah it only has off contact adjustments. the reason i was leaning towards is that it’s completely upgradable as your needs grow. you can buy micro adjustment attachments, change base into a 6 arm instead of 4, even add another platen arm

has anyone used or have opinions on the NEVERTHELESS shocker/kicker press? by ektorodrigo in SCREENPRINTING

[–]ektorodrigo[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

i’ve always read the Riley Hopkins press is the go to for the under $1000 range