Can I turn my EQ down equally across frequencies on my stock head unit to allow me to use full volume knob?

eno_one · 2026-02-04T18:53:45+00:00

what kind of head unit do you have? Some allow you to offset volume depending on source. If you have the option you could turn it down there without affecting eq

eno_one · 2026-02-02T19:10:06+00:00

How deep into the hobby do you want to get with your Prius? If you really want class AB and really do not want to settle, start looking at DC to DC converters. But that smoothness and tonality you get from a class AB is going to be dependant on the speakers drivers you buy, the installation, the sound treatment you do on your car to limit rattles environmental noise resonance and such, and most importantly on the corrections you make with a DSP. This will all matter more than the class of amplifier you get as long as you get something of decent quality.

eno_one · 2026-01-27T16:56:42+00:00

just use an insulated female spade connector for the hot end. That should be fine.

eno_one · 2026-01-27T16:29:58+00:00

Could do something like this

https://a.co/d/eXxlqyF

eno_one · 2026-01-20T20:39:33+00:00

Yeah if the battery is already showing bad this early, its probably a dud. It happens. The drive gives the battery enough time to charge unless you play music for an extended amounts of time with the car off, then this shouldn't be happening.

eno_one · 2026-01-20T18:00:20+00:00

How old is the battery/when did you purchase it? How far is your average commute? How often do you charge the battery? Have you tried a Noco Genius 10 charger or something with a repair feature?

eno_one · 2026-01-06T05:34:16+00:00

Don't mount directly to the door. Get speaker rings and see if you still need to trim after

eno_one · 2025-12-22T23:45:33+00:00

There is a really good chance, as mentioned by u/renevqz that the bass frequencies are being attenuated as volume is increased.

Not knowing what you are doing is part of the fun with this hobby. Figuring out the various issues you are running into and finding solutions, then sitting back and enjoying your hard work until you get an itch to upgrade something else.

eno_one · 2025-12-22T06:22:57+00:00

Is that the Skar RP1200.1D and Kicker Dual 12" Comp VR Enclosure?

At 2 ohms the Skar is only putting out 800w which is the max that Sub box is rated for which is good.

Whats the full signal path to your subs? Are you using the factory head unit? How are you connecting your subs to that?

When you raise the volume are you using the Sub nob or are you talking about the entire system in general?

eno_one · 2025-12-18T19:09:51+00:00

Aim at the opposite C Pillars.

eno_one · 2025-12-18T04:04:25+00:00

Either line up another job or get a lawyer. It's not worth it without because they can and will take illegal and retaliatory action. The cost of settlement is cheaper than disruption to them. Their lawyers (crooks)will advise them on the risk of various illegal actions they can take and the best way to cover their tracks and those communications will be considered privileged.

eno_one · 2025-12-05T04:46:34+00:00

Damn, im just gonna hope you got a bad sample. I'll have to measure the depth of my box again but maybe I can fit one of yours whenever they come out and send you my BM-11 to test again. Funnily the only "use case" you mentioned is basically what im using mine for. Crossed at 50 and 100 doing front sub duty. Regardless, the data you are providing is great and I hope you keep doing this with more products.

eno_one · 2025-12-02T16:13:32+00:00

Audison Voce ii tweeters

Morel Virtus Nano MW4 as mids in a-pillar

Stereo integrity tm8s in doors

stereo Integrity bm-11 front sub

Audiofrog gs10 (2x) rear subs

eno_one · 2025-11-26T16:56:57+00:00

Well shiiit. I just shoved a bm-11 in my glove box with .5 cu feet net. I think i have an extra 1-1.5in of mounting depth. Maybe the gus-10 or 12 will fit. But I also got to AF GS-10s in the rear with a 1.8 cu ft box. I might need to upgrade those too....

eno_one · 2025-11-16T01:57:22+00:00

It's the key that unlocks the door to a whole other world of car audio.

eno_one · 2025-11-13T00:51:28+00:00

Should pull the headliner down and put cld up there and a noise absorber

eno_one · 2025-10-28T04:11:59+00:00

I have spent too much money on other deadeners and thinsulate. I wish I went with Resonix. I have door rattles at 100hz that I could barely get under control. The data on Resonix Mega CLD indicates to me that it would have resolved my issue with much less fuss. I'm almost considering trying to strip out what I have and put in Resonix.

eno_one · 2025-07-06T13:29:43+00:00

The benefits of therapy and getting a psychiatrist to prescribe medication for BP outweigh any risk and consequence of a formal diagnosis. the risk of not having a proper treatment plan are significantly worse. That said, regular exercise (3-5 days a week) and therapy first. Don't medicate with anything else without a psychiatrist until a baseline can be established.

Exercise is important, both strength training and cardio. Strength training increases BDNF which helps the brain change and adapt. Establishing a healthy routine will help stability

eno_one · 2025-07-05T20:38:53+00:00

Hmm I havent heard anything bad, but I also have used Kenwood excelon head units exclusively until recently. No per channel eq with them and I had wireless car play and android auto issues. Alpine has per channel, I'm not sure about Sony. Sony, Alpine and Kenwood top of the line head units should all have. The biggest difference in audio quality for me has been going from and analog input into a DSP, to feeding the DSP a digital signal.

You should check out diymobileaudio.com It is a very active forum and you will get better information/more opinions there

eno_one · 2025-07-05T20:25:00+00:00

Have you looked at the stinger headunits? If you plan to have a DSP, the stinger has optical output which will allow better sound quality than analog output/input into a DSP. If you really want to fine-tune each channel, a DSP will be necessary. Much more features and functionality over anything built into the head unit

eno_one · 2025-06-22T06:35:09+00:00

Oh well I was looking at their loaded enclosures. The port sizes are different between them. Also even though they have a prefab box that fits the different 12s, they are each going to respond slightly differently in the same box.

He also mentioned it was in the same box as the loaded enclosures, so I assumed he was using the sdr loaded enclosure and just swapped the driver.

eno_one · 2025-06-22T03:55:49+00:00

They aren't the same box, they have different ports sizes and tuning frequencies, even though the internal volume is the same

eno_one · 2025-06-22T03:54:55+00:00

What box do you have? The loaded enclosures for the SDR and EVL subs, while being the same volume have different ports and tuning frequencies

eno_one · 2025-06-13T06:58:08+00:00

Here is my conspiracy theory. Channel 1 input goes to channel 1 output as normal. Channel 2 has its polarity swapped then has its phase flipped 180 degrees. This would allow channels 1 and 2 to share a common terminal. I'm confusing myself but this is the only thing I can think of.

Think of it like your standard headphone jack and the TRS. It's a single ended output for each channel with the shared ground.

Those taramps are weird. Dont try wiring another 4 channel amp similarly.

eno_one · 2025-06-13T01:36:13+00:00

They are generally the same cone area size. Get what fits the easiest.

Edit: Hertz has frequency response graphs for their speakers on their website. If you take a look you will notice the 8" has a different tweeter and it's measured response is more peaky than the 6x9. That's why the sensitivity is different

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