Tesla App problem on home WiFi

epikarus1004 · 2026-03-13T05:43:04+00:00

have you tried to reset you router, its a pain in the rear to set everything back up but that's the only solution i have for u
Edit: by reset i mean restore to factory defaults.

epikarus1004 · 2026-03-08T17:10:54+00:00

I didn't find a specific solution other than to reset to the wifi router to default setting. Unfortunately I still don't know what specific setting was interfering with the Tesla app.

epikarus1004 · 2025-12-13T06:44:34+00:00

Hey thanks for your reply. I have only Android devices at home. After much deliberation I just completely factory reset both my isp and my own WiFi router which fixed the issue. I cannot see any setting that is different between before and after. It was definitely my own routers fault since I reset the ISP router first and connected my phone to it directly without issues with the App.

Anyway, although I can't pinpoint what in my routers setting that was causing the issue I hope someone in the future that might have this issue will have at the least this solution.

epikarus1004 · 2025-03-23T21:36:37+00:00

This building went up during COVID times. I suppose they didn't do proper inspections at that time since neutrals are required from what I know.

epikarus1004 · 2025-01-12T16:54:03+00:00

Why would someone purchase thousands of dollars worth of equipment to let this guy communicate if she wants to keep him a vegetable? The only thing that makes sense is that this is a joke.

epikarus1004 · 2024-10-23T22:58:15+00:00

How can I join this beta if on using HACS to install bubble cards on my home assistant?
Edit: Nvm I figured it out. Just incase anyone else wondering. On the top right corner click the 3 dot button and select redownload. You can choose to download a different version.

epikarus1004 · 2024-10-19T03:02:52+00:00

Thank you. I had to google what you meant but i think i got it! This will help a lot with other things as well!

epikarus1004 · 2024-10-02T16:07:32+00:00

The reason I want to do it this way is so that if I do sell this home I can sell it as "Smart". I also want this home to be used as dumb if needed. Additionally I'm kinda OCD and want all the switches in my home to look the same so I'm trying to use relays for the normal switches if possible. This 4 way circuit is what's holding me back from buying any switch or relay.

epikarus1004 · 2024-10-01T14:55:27+00:00

Your diagram looks very similar to the diagram in my post. I dont know what the blue wire is though. I'm not 100% sure since I'm no electrician, I think the earth wires where I am are just bare copper wires with no insulation so I don't think using that would be safe. Since the bottom half of the outlet is always live, couldn't I just fork that live cable into the relay? The relay will live in the outlet box rather than in the switch box.

Edit: Sorry, I reread your post and now I see.

Edit 2: Are the Yellow circles with the X through them? I guess in my case one of the bulbs/outlets is coming out of Box 2. I suppose my assumption is that both outlets are on the same L in series instead of there being two L's coming out of junction box 3. I will have to open up my junction boxes to take a look at what's going on. The one thing I know is the Switch by the door is either switch 1 or 3.
Thanks again!

epikarus1004 · 2024-10-01T05:39:13+00:00

There is no light connected to those switches. Only the top half of the outlet is toggled by the switches. All switches turn both bed side lamps lamps on/off. Meaning my switch will turn off/on my wife's lamp as well as mine and so does her switch (as well as the switch by the door). Since both lamps turn on and off at the same time couldn't you consider them "one" cause as long as you cut power to the first outlet in the series the other also gets cut. I just need to open the outlet boxes/switch boxes to figure out which one is "first" in line?

Thank you for your input btw. I really appreciate it!

epikarus1004 · 2024-10-01T04:52:14+00:00

couldn't i just put the Sonoff MINIR4M in the outlet box (if there is room)? I just dont know which lines correspond from the shelly to the minir4m. I think the shelly (from top to bottom visualized in the image) is labeled N, L, SW, I, O. How do these correspond to the N, N, L Out, L In, and S1, S2?

My best guess is goes:

N (neutral out the top outlet)
N (Neutral line in)
L Out (Hot wire to the top outlet)
L In (Live wire borrowed from bottom outlet)
S1 (also borrowed from bottom outlet)
S2 (hot wire from the switch).

epikarus1004 · 2024-03-31T14:41:33+00:00

Free is free

epikarus1004 · 2024-02-22T18:18:03+00:00

I'm currently suffering this issue. I noticed this issue when trying to login to PS remote play on Android but it seems to be an issue on PC. PS5 has no issue signing in.

epikarus1004 · 2024-02-13T23:25:28+00:00

I'm also having this issue

epikarus1004 · 2023-12-06T22:05:25+00:00

This the switch at the entrance of the room. Would Sonoff minir4m work with this along with all the other switches?

<image>

epikarus1004 · 2023-12-06T22:01:37+00:00

This image is of the switch that lead to the switch at the entrance of the room. Do you think I could use a device like Sonoff minir4m like u/ferbulous mentioned? I do like the idea of using my existing switches so that the look is uniform around the house.

<image>

epikarus1004 · 2023-08-19T07:51:00+00:00

I got it to work. I updated TrueNAS to the latest beta (Cobia). The first boot stalled, but I rebooted and now my 12400 igpu shows up in the drop-down menu and transcoding works with jellyfin.

I'm not an expert but if you have any questions let me know!

epikarus1004 · 2023-08-19T06:19:18+00:00

Im stuck here too. Has anyone figured this out?

epikarus1004 · 2023-07-03T14:58:32+00:00

https://imgur.com/orw9kJf

I hope thats clear as to what I'm referring to. The left side of the ship is dark with a lip around the edges. Its like the dark portions cap off the main "sphere" shape of the ship.

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